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Post Info TOPIC: A Simple Six-Day Southwest Swing


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A Simple Six-Day Southwest Swing


Four friends---six days---tight budget---GLORIOUS MEMORIES.

 Started in Shannon at 6:00AM and worked our way through Co. Clare's best-known spots: Ennis, Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, the trecherous drive up those hairpin turns to Ballyvaughn. Night #1 at the cozy Seascape B&B in Doolin.  Good food---good prices---in the village pubs. Friendly crowd at Fitzgeralds with traditional Irish music all evening.

Day #2  Leisurly drive souteast through tiny towns and heavenly scenery to lunch in Tipperary; then, on to Cashel for THE ROCK. South to Cahir---I love this little town. Stayed in the Carrigeen Castle B&B  (got yelled at by matriarch for wanting coffee before she was ready to serve breakfast---ouch)----an affordable 40 euro experience for those dying to stay in a castle but cannot do the $200 a night places. Sought out the Galilio Restaurant---highly recommended on travel site by several others visitors. UGGGGHHHHHbleh. I SHOULD KNOW BETTER!  Found Italian food in Ireland as bad as Italian food in Mexico. Just generalizing here.

Day #3 South on great highway (a break from the nerve-grinding narrow lanes) toward Cork. A look around Fermoy area, searching out gardens, and then on into the big city. THE BEST B&B EVER: The Garnish House sits right on the main drag, a five minute walk from city's edge. Arrived in late afternoon to the most delicious, generous tea service from Johanna---the most welcoming host in the country!! Had a lovely dinner at the Liberty Grill just steps from Reardons where a live band played and patrons could participate in Bandaroke. My friend Corisa sang with the band!! Greeted the next morning with the Garnish House's famous 30-item breakfast menu---every choice tempting us---we tried a little of this and that. OMG the French toast!!!

Day #4 Drive the scenic route along the coast of West Cork. A stop at the Drombeg Stone Circle included the winding uphill "lane" to breathtaking views before coming upon the ancient site. On the way down we pulled in for lunch at a picture-perfect seaside hotel bordering the road. We all agreed this place had the best buscotti we'd ever had, wonderful soup of course, and nice Irish coffee. Yummy. On the road again and into Kenmare for dinner and a look see. Clockwise from Kenmare to Cahirciveen where we parked for the night---unfortunately---in a dull, cold B&B that gave us cereal, JUST CEREAL, for breakfast. I won't name names. 

Day #5 Climbed out of our freezing beds---already in our layed look---downed the cold cereal and drove away from our one bad night. On to Dingle! Fabulous in every way. Over to Killarney area to do the National Forest, Muckross House and grounds by jaunty car, and a really-tucked-away B&B---the wonderful Purple Heather at the foot of the Gap of Dunloe drive.

Day #6 Up early for a hike up the trails near the Torc Falls before heading to Adare for our last night in Ireland. Loved the town of Adare, the cottages, shops, pubs. We settled into the Berkely Lodge---a great B&B right in the village---Bridie is a charmer for making you feel like she's been waiting all day just for you. We drove 15 minutes out of town to Greenmont Racing fixture---an evening of fun in a Twilight Racing package that included admission, racing form, a 5 euro betting card, a BBQ dinner with a pint or a glass of wine, and live music beginning at 9-ish. We bet small amounts and won more than we lost! Not so bad for the Yankee lasses.

Next morning: Up at 8:00 for breakfast, on the road by 9:30 to Shannon Airport.cry  

     



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Annetta,

Many thanks for posting your trip report. Sounds like you had a very good time. Cereal for breakfast??? They should have the word "breakfast" removed from their name of bed-and-breakfast. That is miserly. Sounds like you had some good and a couple of "bads". I see you encountered the legendary host of Carrigeen Castle, who some refer to as the warden.

Will you return to Ireland again?

Michele

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"Ireland Expert"  Michele Erdvig

Click links for Michele's Book or Custom Ireland Itinerary

Visit Michele's Irish Shop for unique Irish gifts and beautiful photos of Ireland.



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Don't be shy "Name and Shame", I would guess it wasn't Strand's End House.

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Two rules for Ireland, Take your time & bring a sense of humour 



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Annetta,

I would be interested in knowing which B&B you stayed at in Caherciveen too.

Michele

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"Ireland Expert"  Michele Erdvig

Click links for Michele's Book or Custom Ireland Itinerary

Visit Michele's Irish Shop for unique Irish gifts and beautiful photos of Ireland.



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I certainly hope I will return to Ireland again. This was my third trip---came twice in 1990s. The country's economic boom and subsequent bust is obvious to those of us who saw it before and after. On the plus side, it was great to get around faster and easier using some of the new highways. But I had gone on and on to my friends about the rose gardens at the Adare Manor---- which of course we were not allowed to get near. The woman in the Adare Tourist Info Center put it aptly: "It is now a Five-Star hotel! Those guests don't want tourists by the bus load wandering through like herds of cattle." It was a bit sad to see that some of the natural beauties have been redesigned for tourism. The "safety wall" lining the walk at the Cliffs of Moher is as tall as me. No more open view from a picnic blanket on the grass. To clarify the breakfast disappointment in Cahersiveen. We stayed at the Iveragh Heights B&B where the full Irish breakfast is additional 2.50 euro. Since all the other B&Bs had many items---fruit, scones, yogurts, etc---for those who didn't want the full deal, we thought we'd go that route for our 4th morning. Yes, we made a number of mistakes along the way by making assumptions instead of getting the facts. Travel and learn, right?

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I'd hate to give some place a bad rating just because of my one experience there. yaknow? Just because the previous B&Bs had a lot of alternatives to the full meat&eggs plate, doesn't mean that all B&Bs do. Perhaps they were having some personal issues. One of the other guests, they were a group of about six, came to our assistance when we asked about getting some heat. It was our coldest night and the toilet seat was frigid! This guest came to our room and attempted to turn on the radiators as she had in her own room.  No heat came out. We slept in our clothes and coats. It's funny now but it wasn't at 3:00AM. The woman of the house did seem a bit"not in charge" when we arrived and she wasn't in sight the next morning at breakfast either. Her husband pointed us to the cold cereal on the highboy.



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Annetta,

You can still get into Adare Manor. Have lunch at the golf club! If you tell them that you will be let in at the gatehouse. And don't worry, you can afford soup and sandwiches at the golf club. It is not as pricey as the manor. Then you are free to walk all around the gardens, etc. I did know the code for the side gate when I rented a cottage beside the gate a couple of years ago. But I'm sure they have changed it by now.

Next time skip the Cliffs of Moher and meander down the coast to Loop Head instead. It will be more of the experience you want.

I read some online reviews of your Caherciveen B&B and breakfast was negatively mentioned by someone else. I agree that most B&Bs have lots more items to choose from the buffet. You will have to try my hair dryer trick to warm a cold room. Just turn it on and let it rip. Since most B&Bs have small rooms the hair dryer will warm it up in no time. Great for warming your bed too! Just keep an eye on it so you don't burn down the house.

Michele





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"Ireland Expert"  Michele Erdvig

Click links for Michele's Book or Custom Ireland Itinerary

Visit Michele's Irish Shop for unique Irish gifts and beautiful photos of Ireland.

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