Michele,I have no idea how I missed your web site all this time – it is great, with lots of info.Our trip to Ireland (2 weeks in August) is almost planned, but please take a look at our itinerary and let me know your thoughts. We want this to be a relaxed, slow-paced vacation.We enjoy nature, quaint towns, good food and above all coastal scenery: waves and cliffs.So here we go: Arrive in Shannon (from east coast US).The plane will land around 6 am and we need to get to Clifden.This is the part that worries me – will be too jetlagged for the drive?Can we hire a driver for our rental from Shannon to Clifden? I could not find any car rental in Clifden… Days 1-3 – stay in Clifden (Quay House) and explore Connemara.Depending on weather and mood, we might take a day trip to the Aran Islands. Day 4 – Leave Clifden, visit Cliffs of Moher and spend the night in Ballyvaughan (Drumcreehy House) Day 5 – Drive to Dingle (via Tarbert ferry) – spend 3 nights at the Shores and explore the Dingle peninsula Day 8 – Drive to Kenmare and spend 3 nights there (Shelburne House). Visit the Killarney Park, Muckross House and the Beara peninsula. Day 11 – Drive to Skibbereen and explore the Sheep’s Head peninsula.No plans for the night yet – maybe the Grove House, do you know anything about it?Spend 2 nights there and explore Mizen Head the next day Day 13 – Drive to Cashel, spend the night there (have to decide on the B&B) and visit Cahir on the way. Day 14 – Drive to Bunratty, explore the folk park and the next day, fly back home.So, how does this sound?It’s still early, so I can still make changes…Thanks a lot
Welcome to the forum! As they say, better late than never. So I am glad that you found it. You will enjoy looking around, reading the Q&As and also the many trip reports. You may pick up some tips!
Most of your itinerary looks very good. The drive from Shannon to Clifden may take you 2 1/2 to 3 hours. It is mostly on main roads. It is just a little farther than most people choose to drive on their first day. Jet-lag affects people differently. You may want to stop for coffee or a snack on the way. If you start feeling sleepy stop, get out of the car and walk around for a while. If it gets too much you could always park and nap in the car for an hour. If you are extremely concerned about it, you could always book a B&B close to the airport and spend your first night there getting accustomed to the time zone.
On Day 4 you will be doing some backtracking. Much as I like Drumcreehy House it is in Ballyvaughan, which is north of the cliffs. You may want to consider staying in Doolin or Lahinch instead. Take a look at your map.
You are in for a real treat at The Shores. See if the queen room with the balcony is available. If you are there on a weeknight be sure to have dinner there. Annette is a very talented cook and never disappoints.
I have some very nice B&Bs to recommend in the places you are undecided about. Take a look at my book or "Lodgings" page for suggestions.
Hi Michele,Thanks – I found a lot of great info on your web site, lots of wonderful trip reports with good tips and ideas.Yes, we booked the ‘balcony room’ at the Shores, so we’re very excited about that.And we’ll be there during the week, so we’ll enjoy Annette’s dinner.For the first day, we might book a room close to the airport, stop there for breakfast and a nap, then continue in the afternoon to Clifden.Even so, we’ll only have 2 days in Connemara, which I know is not enough…Is there anyway we can find and hire a driver for our rental from the airport to Clifden?I’ll look into a B&B in Doolin, you are right about the backtracking from Ballyvaughan.Thanks a lot.
The problem with booking a room near Shannon for your arrival day is that in the early morning your room may not be vacated yet. Check-in times are usually in the afternoon. The way around that is to book the night before (while you are flying). If you want to do that you will have to coordinate it with your B&B or hotel to find out what can be done and at what time you would need to vacate the room.
For a driver contact Hugh at this site: www.karontravel.ie Tell him I recommended you get a quote.
My thoughts on jet lag, not the same as everyone's but seems to be the consensus:
I agree that the drive to Clifden is longer than many if not most would like to take. The further east you live in the States, the less dramatic the pain is, but if hits everyone differently. The one thing that I have found is that taking a nap on the first day only prolongs the effects over multiple days. The trick is to stay awake all day on the 1st day. If not, you will likely feel tired at the same time the next day.
If you decide to make the drive, plan many stops along the way and get out and walk. Breaks every 30 minutes is not a bad idea. The only tricky part on that drive is getting around Galway. The right turn (across traffic) onto the N59 is past where the road meets the "ring road". You will then make a left after a short drive onto the actual N59. It's pretty clearly marked.
As far as stopping on the way, you could stop in Ennis for a stroll and then perhaps Gort for a snack. Fight the urge to drown yourself in a few pints of Guinness. Oranmore Castle is sort of open to visitors (at least it used to be). If you ring the bell, the owners will give you a tour and invite you to throw some money into a pot. The money ostensibly goes to help with refurbishment although it mkay also go to help buy pints. Whatever the case, it's fun and not like any other castle tour you'll go on.
Oughterard is about 30 minutes outside Galway and is a cute town with a couple of nice options for lunch or a snack. Eat light, no heavy meals. From there to Clifden, the road moves pretty well, but the moment you feel tired, get out and walk. There are a couple of beautiful lakes just off the main road along the way which my do well as a stretching point. It really makes a huge difference to get out of the car regularly.
Michele, Thanks for Hugh’s contact and the good point about renting for the night we are actually flying. I am still torn, I don’t know what the right thing to do is about the first day drive.The more I read it seems that driving to Clifden might not be such a great idea.We’re coming from the East Coast (Newark), the flight is only about 6.5 hrs, but still… Wojazz, Thanks for all the thoughts and the advice.We land around 6 am, so I’m not sure if it will be possible to stay up all day without a nap…and no, there is no danger of drowning in Guinness – that day or any other.We’re mostly wine drinkers, but maybe this trip we’ll discover what everybody else loves about the Guiness…
Have you ever had jet-lag before? If so, how did you handle it? I often finds that it affects older people a bit more. I know that as I get older I really do require a nap the first day. However, upon arrival you are usually so excited about being in Ireland that it doesn't set in for a few hours.
All that being said, I think if you take Bill's advice you will be fine driving to Clifden. Especially since you are arriving so early.
Michele
P.S. If Guinness is not your "cup of tea" try Smithwick's, my brew of choice in Irish pubs.
Yes, we’ve been jet lagged before – but we never attempted such a long drive.In the end it will be my husband’s decision (he’s the driver, and if he thinks he can do it, I’m fine with it).As far as I remember, he handles jet lag worse than I do, so I worry more about him…
Anyway, we’ll definitely take wojazz’s advice and stop frequently, stretch, walk – and just enjoy the scenery.Then we’ll probably take a nap in Clifden after we check in.
Thanks for the Smithwick's idea – is that dark or pale beer?I don’t think I ever tried Guinness, so I can’t tell you if I like it or not – but I I’ll definitely try it.
Guinness is an acquired taste, although my husband assures me it tastes much better in Ireland. Smithwick's is a meduim reddish colored beer. A much nicer taste than the pale beers.
I'll never forget long ago when I pronounced Smithwick's the way it looked and a friend of mine almost fell off his bar stool laughing. I got a quick education on how to pronounce it. I learn new things every time I go to Ireland.
Luckily, I had someone coach me on the pronunciation befoe I went up to the bar to order the next round. That being said, I never have been a fan of either Cider or Guiness, which is why I am thankful for Jameson.
I second Bill, you can make the Clifden drive as long as you stop often. In Ireland, you will find that stopping often isn't a problem. The driver will have to get used to "Stop, Back up, I just have to have a picture of........" or "Pull over! No, not here, back there! Thanks this will only take a minute! (read that as at least five)" My brother was even in tune enough to cue off of subtle cues such as an audible sigh . I come home from every picture with no less than 3500 digital images to download and those are the good ones.
Slan Agus Beannacht,
Bit
"What butter and whiskey won't cure, there is no cure for." (Irish Saying)
Ok, here’s the plan: I promise I will give Guinness a try – though the amount of calories it packs scares me. And I’ll definitely try the Smithwick’s…and I’ll watch my pronunciation
CowboyCraic, ha-ha-ha - my husband knows (from previous vacations) the line: “Stop – photo opp – just a second – stay here, I’ll be right back”. It always takes more than a sec…but I love my pictures.I guess I’ll need to buy more memory for this trip…. We’ll probably do the drive the first day, and stop plenty – thanks
We also did a lot of "Stop! Back up! I think we missed the turn! What did that sign say? We'll have to ask this nice farmer for directions!" But eventually we got where we thought we wanted to be.
What ever you do, don't let the bartender talk you into trying your Guiness with Current syrup. My wife fell for that, and it was the worst 5 Euro. I ever spent !!! Loved the Guiness, Smitticks, Murphy's and Jamison.
The best advice I think I have ever received about driving in Ireland came from a delightful elder woman. I stopped in her grocery to ask for directions. When I said "Please help me, I believe I am lost", she replied "you're most certainly not lost, my dear, simply Faerie Led." From that day on, we refer to our driving miscues as being Faerie led and if we end up to far out off course, we blame it on the mischievious ones. I will have to say that the Faeries have led us to some wonderful places we wouldn't have visited otherwise. Now, if I could just remember the name of the town we were in last year south of Rosscarbery. We had the best lunch, a walk by the bay and did an impromptu performance. Yet none of us can recall where we were and no, we hadn't been imbibing at the time.
As for memory cards, I took 5 1GB cards with me and we were constantly dumping them to the laptop. As for Guiness, a glass would indeed be better than a pint, if you are unsure. Also, to remember when ordering a Guiness, They have to build it for you. It takes some time to build a proper Guiness. My partner found that out on his first trip. He couldn't understand why it was taking so long to just pour one from the tap. Fortunately, I explained it to him before he could catch the waitress's eye to ask her.
Mark,
Guiness with Currant syrup? Goodness, to be sure that was an imp that pulled that one off, your poor wife!
I have to say, I don't mind Guinness with black currant liqueur...it's actually quite common in the midlands. It cuts the somewhat bitter flavor of the stout. However, I prefer it without.
Regarding digital camera memory: himself bought me a "portable data storage and 7 in 1 memory card reader" before our Oct-Nov trip. No computer required, rechargeable, and a little bigger than a deck of cards. Every day or two I could download the photos from my card and start over. Between the 4 of us we had 3 digital cameras and I was able to save all of them. Each time you put in a card, it starts a new folder. Also keeps the info attached, just like when you copy onto your computer. Mine is a Wolverine -- doesn't let you view the photos on it, but there are some that do ... a feature that might be reassuring before you delete pictures from/reformat your card.
To me, Guinness is a sweet, creamy indulgence -- not bitter -- better in Ireland than elsewhere, but always my favorite
I have been fairy led for many decades! Sometimes the road is a dead end but more often than not wonderful experiences happen on those roads I shouldn't have taken.
That’s another thing I’m torn about….our best memories are generally the ones where we took the wrong turn.
But now, whit the GPS available….should we rent a car with GPS (and miss the wonderful surprises that an unknown road brings but not have to worry)?What’s more important?
And I have another thing to research before we go – that Wolverine for picture storage sounds great! I think I know what I’m getting for my birthday
I haven't used a GPS in Ireland as they generally come with the more expensive cars and I am always rubbing my pennies together till they scream. As I understand it the GPS system in Ireland is not as advanced as other countries. Do you think the fairies have something to do with it? Actually it is a problem with the OSI not licensing their maps to businesses who create the GPS systems. This makes it necessary to start from scratch and re-map the whole country (for anyone that actually wants to do that). Stay tuned.
We will need an automatic car anyway – and I know that will increase the price (and the size) of the car.Oh, well…
As for the GPS, I think we will not get one.I trust the fairies to take us to some wonderful, unexpected places.I think we have enough time, we did no plan for a lot of driving every day, so we can do that.
If you are lost, just stop and ask a local to point you in the right direction. Sometimes the directions are hysterical. But they work! You will at least have some interesting conversations.
Thanks. I took your advise and changed the reservation from the Drumcreehy to Cullinan's in Doolin. That will eliminate some back-tracking for that day.
Now, I have another questions: Schull or Skibbereen to explore Sheep's Head and Mizen Head peninsulas? I know you recommend PK Lodge, and it looks like a nice option. But we would really like something with a water view - so Schull looks more attractive. Can you recommend anything there? Or in that area? We'll have 2 nights. Thanks.
I prefer Skibbereen over Schull, as it is just a bit larger and therefore has more to offer. You might check out Sunnyside B&B in Skibbereen. It is quite handy to the pubs and shops, all of its rooms are ensuite. I have also stayed at the Castle Townshend, just outside of Skibbereen in a neighboring vlillage/town.
Actually Guinness draft is almost a "light" beer. It only has about 125 calories per 12 oz as compared to Coors light with 105. Plus the added advantage that it fills you up faster so you do not drink as much (although I've seemed to got around that problem).
The lower calorie count is because the English used to tax the beer by alcohol persentage so they kept it low. The Foriegn Extra Stout in bottles is a lot stronger (about twice) and thus more calories. They actually brew about 8 different types these days.
The things you pick up during the Guinness Storehouse tour.