My husband found your site and we've been reading with interest all the queries and trip information. We're about to take our FIRST trip to Ireland in less than 3 weeks from now and as it's very last-minute, were hoping for some tips and such.
We will fly into Dublin our first night and stay our first two nights at the Lough Bishop House, Collinstown, County Westmeath. We've read some wonderful reviews on this establishment and are looking forward to the countryside. We are from a farming community in Illinois, so think we'll be right at home. (Wondered what would be your recommendation for places to visit in that area? We will do Dublin on the last days of our trip) Really just want to see the local people, pubs, a few castles, and basically RELAX.
From there, we are traveling down to Cork to stay 3 nights in a B&B there. (Hoping to stop for a few hours in Birr on the way....it looks so quaint) Again, we would like to mingle with the locals and see some of the highlights of the area. We considered spending a day in Limerick (thanks to Frank McCourt's influence) or a day in Kilarney, then coming back to our B&B in Cork. I suppose we may be able to do both, but would like your input on which YOU would choose, and why. We also want to spend time wandering around Cork and finding our own little "secrets" there.
After 3 nights in Cork, we are traveling back toward Dublin to a B&B in Lusk, County Dublin for two nights. Hoping to spend time in Kilkenny, and find Kyteler's Inn there for an afternoon meal. (Their website caught my eye).
We know one week is not enough time to do Ireland justice, and the winter time is probably not the best time to see Ireland at it's finest, but we love traveling in the "off season" when we have more elbow room and things are slower-paced.
We plan on taking a bus or train into Dublin for a day while staying at Lusk, and explore all it has to offer.
Thanks so much for your input and we're so glad we found you!
(AND your name is spelled JUST LIKE MINE Don't find that very often!
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If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning. * Catherine Aird
You're planning to spend 3 nights in a B&B in Cork -- City, or County? Do you have a particular "draw" to Cork, or is it just a general interest?
The reason that I ask is that the City is most decidedly THAT -- a city. There are a number of interesting towns and villages surrounding the City that would make excellent bases for day-trips and etc., that you MIGHT find more interesting, and might leave you better situated for trips to Killarney or Limmerick.
My personal preference (of those two choices) would be Killarney -- a MAJOR Tourist Trap, true, but for GOOD reason. Plus, given the time of year, it will be much less hectic and frentic. Limmerick is also a City -- and a bit grungy and industrial for my taste, but it DOES have its charms and appeal. I just don't think that I would travel all that way, JUST to do the Angela's Ashes tour.
Check out these links. They are for two of my personal favorite towns in all of Cork and are convenient 'Parking' locations that are out of the Cork City hustle and bustle. I haven't stayed at the B&B yet, as our 'Regular' in has just retired.
Millstreet town ( 1/2 way between Killarney and Cork City ) -- Co. Cork's best kept secret:
Welcome to my forum! There will not be a lot going on in the Westmeath area at the time of year you will be there. You should check on opening times before making a long trip for sightseeing. You will be quite near Fore Abbey and also Loughcrew passage graves (if you are into antiquities). South of Athlone is Clonmacnoise monastic site, which is well worth seeing. To the east is Bru na Boinne with Newgrange and Knowth. I believe Trim Castle is open on weekends at this time of year. There is Locke's Distillery in Kilbeggan. Birr Castle Gardens are open all year as is Belvedere House.
I, too, am wondering about the Cork portion of your trip. Perhaps you will elaborate on your plans?
I am with Bob on Limerick. There are some interesting things to do and see in the city such as the Hunt Museum and King John's Castle. But it is not worth going out of your way for.
From Lusk you will need to get a bus into Dublin City. If you were staying in Malahide you could get DART.
Thank you Bob and Michele for your help! We can use every bit we can get, last minute planning and all.
We'll cross Limerick off our list of "Things to See", and concentrate on areas south of that while in Cork.
We really didn't have a purpose in Cork City, just thought it would be a good place in the south to hang our hats for a few days and go off exploring. Didn't really want to pack and upack more than necessary. (When, oh when will they invent a way to travel without luggage!?) We've already made all our lodging arrangements for the trip, so will try to make the most of them. (Will report back after our trip)
Millstreet and Watergrasshill sound very intriguing, Bob, and we will see if we can visit one or both of those locations.
We, as U.S. citizens, have nothing to compare historically to Ireland, so all the sights will be amazing to us. I'm going to copy your ideas, Michele, and put them in my folder of highlights.
We may drive from Lusk to Malahide and catch the DART for our jaunt into Dublin those last couple days. I just know we won't be driving in......too many warnings from everyone on that score!
I've got my camera ready to shoot and am looking forward to our first trip. I have to admit I don't know enough about the country to ask many intelligent questions, but I also know I love meeting people and hearing their stories, so I won't be disappointed.
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If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning. * Catherine Aird
I concur with Bob and our forum host -- one can certainly stay clear of Limerick -- although there is some valid historical intrigue, to me it is one of the dirtiest, most unappealing places in Ireland. And King John's Castle is an over-priced tourist trap -- many other castles in Ireland are much more interesting than that one, which is commercialized and surprising boring.
Although County Cork has some wonderful things to see, I personally wouldn't stay in the city. In my opinion, to get a real feel of Ireland, you need to get into the small villages and talk to the people there and experience that charm. Some of the communities in West Cork and on the southern coast are just great, and you will enjoy the people there.
How about currency exchange now.........what in your opinion is the best way to handle that? Should we have our small bank convert our US Dollars into Euros, or wait til we're in Ireland to do that?? Do most places accept traveler's checks? We are really "green" on all this information, so any help is much appreciated!
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If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning. * Catherine Aird
I've had two trips to Ireland, the most recent in September. I've never taken traveler's checks. I use our ATM card (has to be cirrus or plus) and withdraw from the machines in Ireland. It draws from your checking account. There are ATM machines in the airports and all larger towns. Most places take credit cards. If you get euros here in the states, you won't get a good exchange rate.
There are ATMs everywhere, and that is indeed the way to go and the best rate. Many B&Bs will also take credit cards, but it is good to always have some cash on hand for those in the smaller areas that don't.
When using credit cards for purchases, always make sure they charge you in Euros -- not dollars. There is conversion trickery that goes on if it is charged in dollars.
Here is how Michele explained this matter last year:
When you are in Ireland if you let merchants charge you in US dollars it is called dynamic currency conversion. They will add on a percentage for themselves and thus make extra money while you pay extra for them to do the conversion. If you charge in euros (or pounds sterling) they do not get an extra percentage from you. That is why many of them insist on doing it. Unless you feel like handing over an extra 3 to 6% to these kindly merchants who are doing you a BIG favor by helpfully converting it for you, DO NOT LET THEM DO IT!
Thanks, Michele, We're reading and trying to absorb as much of your helpful info as possible before we arrive in Ireland. Being first-time overseas travelers, it's alot to take in. Your tips are so helpful! ~Michele
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If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning. * Catherine Aird
Glad you are finding my website helpful. It is a lot to absorb. But your trip will go much smoother if you know "the ropes" of traveling in Ireland. You will be one up on all the other travelers who have not prepared properly.
Please let us know how your trip goes. We would love to hear about it when you return.
Just returned yesterday from our first trip to Ireland, and we had the luck of the Irish the entire stay! Can you believe, we were there for 7 days in February, and it did not rain on us ONCE?? We found the people to be charming, and the country as beautiful as everyone says.
I took almost 1000 pictures during our stay and we made the most of our time there, without trying to push ourselves too much. My husband managed to catch on quickly to the driving, while I was blown away by the gorgeous, hedgerowed countryside. (How can it be thisgreen in February??)
We started out from Dublin Airport to the Lough Bishop House, a B&B in County Westmeath. We stayed 2 nights on this working farm, and enjoyed visiting with Helen (a transplant from England), and her husband, Christopher. The bed was very comfortable, the shower wonderful, and the breakfast very ample and tasty. We found we had alot in common with our hosts, and I'm afraid we kept Helen up much too late on our last night there, because we were having such a great time telling stories. This was definitely the PERFECT way to be introduced to the country!
While staying at the Lough Bishop house, the first afternoon we traveled to Fore village to see Fore Abbey, which Helen recommended, and was NOT on our "list of must-sees". It was awe-inspiring to see these structures and ruins, much off the beaten path, but well-worth an afternoon's visit. Just the thought of seeing with your own eyes something that is medieval makes one realize how very young our country really is! I couldn't stop taking pictures. (a bit obsessed by the history of my surroundings, I'd say)
On day two, we traveled a short distance to the town of Trim and walked the castle grounds there, while enjoying the fog off the river Boyne to make our experience that much more authentically Irish We walked through a few of the small shops and met an elderly shopkeeper who volunteered us an overwhelming abundance of Irish history and pride. He entertained us with his vision of Ireland, and made us feel very welcome in his little town.
We went on through Tullamore(just a drive-through.......didn't see anything we needed to stop for), then stopped at Durrow because I saw an old church and cemetery I wanted to snap pictures of. What a delight it was to find a gentleman there who was working on the geneology of the churchyard cemetery "inhabitants". He talked to us at length about his work, and all the sights he had seen in the United States, while visiting there. We had a good laugh because he has been in more of the states than we! He directed us just up the road to the Durrow High Cross site. It was closed for refurbishment, so we just glimpsed through the wrought iron gate there.
On to Mullingar, just for a drive-around, then to a tiny village called Multyfarnham to enjoy a wonderful meal in a charming bar/restaurant called Weirs. We were early, so got the table right in front of the fire. Our meals were excellent and the prices were very reasonable.
On day three, we sadly told our hosts at Lough Bishop House goodbye, and headed down to Cork City. We stopped at Birr to stroll around the castle grounds and enjoy their hospitality.
After a leisurely drive down from Birr, we managed to find our B&B (Gabriel House) in Cork City easily, and found it was a 5 minute stroll from the city center, so went down to find a bite to eat. We were a little travel-weary, and went back to our B&B to enjoy some much needed rest.
From our Cork City "hub" we travelled the first day to the 3 K's, Kilarney, Kenmare, and Kinsale. We found Kilarney to be a fun town to shop for souveniers, discovering all the side streets and vendors. We steered clear of the Muckross house and Ross castle, in order to take in a couple more towns.
In Kenmare we had a wonderful meal at The Horseshoe Pub, after traveling the rocky, mountainous roads down from Kilarney......an absolutely beautiful trip! (of course, stopped in several spots to shoot pictures). I found this to be a "Fairy Tale" village full of color and charm.
We got into Kinsale later that afternoon, and walked around, after stopping by some church ruins, and an old cemetery enroute. Another beautiful drive through craggy country, dodging sheep a few times who had broken through their fences. (You don't see this in Illinois!) We had a good meal at a pub called Muddy Maher's in Kinsale and just stayed for awhile to watch and listen to the locals. A friendly place, with great food. Then back to Cork to our B&B for a good night's sleep.
We spent the next morning in Cork City, amazed at all the shoppers, and totally enchanted by the English Market there. We had a wonderful lunch at the Farmgate Cafe', overlooking the market, and found it a spectacular place to watch the people there. After picking up a boxed cake in the market at Heavenly Cakes, we went back to our room to devour it. (Indeed it WAS Heavenly!)
We then drove down to Cobh, and I'd have to say this was my favorite little town (if you forced me to choose). The history, the color, the beautiful coastline, and the cathedral on the hill were all I needed to make me say, "I don't want to go home!" We spent the afternoon here, and my husband had to drag me back to the car so we could take in the sights of Youghal before we left the area the next day. Another lovely coastal town. After a couple of hours, we grabbed a bite to eat at The Quay's Bar. Themeal was wonderful, and surroundings warm and inviting.
Out from Cork the next day...............to be continued.
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If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning. * Catherine Aird
Welcome back and thanks for taking the time to stop by and post your trip report. There is also a special section of the forum just for Trip Reports, if you would care to also post there also.
I am so glad you enjoyed your trip to Ireland. I can't believe you didn't have a drop of rain. The luck of the Irish must have been with you! I am happy to see you took some of the advice here and visited Fore Abbey, Trim Castle and Birr. There is so much to see. And now you know why it is called The Emerald Isle!
I am looking forward to reading more about your travels.