My daughter is studying at University College Cork for her Junior Year Study Abroad. We took her over in August, visiting Dublin, Clare, and several days in Cork getting her settled. I went back to spend Thanksgiving with her, and I am currently planning a trip to visit her over Easter and the week following.
My dilemma is this: I would like to spend Easter in County Armagh, visiting some ancestral locations, and she would like to show me some parts of Counties Cork and Kerry she has grown to love during her stay. Are we crazy to try to fit both ends of the island into nine days?
I am flying in and out of Dublin and already have a rental car booked. She is meeting me in Dublin on the Thursday before Easter. My tentative plan is to drive north to Armagh and stay through Easter, departing on Easter Monday to drive south.
I'd like to be in the Killarney area by Tuesday night (she really wants me to see Gougane Barra); I'd really rather not drive to Kerry in one shot from Armagh, so I could use some advice about a halfway point for Monday night. Would it be too much to try to drive from Armagh to Kinvarra, County Galway in one day?
On another note, I am wondering about traveling over Easter - will everything be closed? I understand Good Friday is NOT a Bank Holiday in Northern Ireland, but what can I expect regarding restaurants, shops, museums, fuel, etc.? over the weekend?
I appreciate any assistance - I have enjoyed reading through many of the posts on this forum.
What you are proposing IS doable, with reservations. Do you have a compelling interest in Kinvara, or is it more-or-less a RANDOM selection? Ennis or Limmerick might be equally as good, distance-wise.
www.aaroadwatch.ie places Armagh to Kinvara at 159.6 miles. They claim a driving time at just shy of 4 hours. At a guess, I would say that 5-6 hours would be more realistic (See Michele's 'Rule of 35') ... Limmerick settles in at 171 miles from Armagh, while Ennis (MUCH more pleasant a stopping point, in MY opinion) comes in at 166 miles.
However ....
Neither number provides for stops for meals, restrooms or sight-seeing and the sun will rise LATE and set Early, so you wouldn't want to dawdle ...
Although Holy Monday isn't a Bank Holiday in N.I., it is STILL an important RELIGIOUS Holiday for many. Lots and lots of businesses could be closed, but I have no personal info on what may or may not be open. Petrol shouldn't be a problem -- just be sure to 'Top Up' before leaving Armagh and you'll have plenty enough for the trip.
You mention Killarney as the gateway to Gougane Barra, but you would NOT need to drive to Killarney first, unless that was also on your list of sights. Gougane Barra is actually closer to Macroom, so coming there from Galway, via Killarney would constitute a rather substantial detour -- 245 miles, via Killarney, versus 150 miles, via the N20 (the Cork-Limmerick Road) and the N22.
Hope this helps ...
Bob
-- Edited by Itallian Chauffeur at 23:48, 2008-01-27
__________________
Bob
Help Us to Help You. The more you tell us about your plans (dates, interests, budget), the better we can tailor our advice to suit!
Yes, Kinvarra was a random selection, mostly for the availability of a hostel, but I am very flexible there. Killarney is not a must, either, just Gougan Barra.
If I drove to Ennis for my intermediate point, does that put me on the right track to your suggested route of the N20 and the N22? (Sorry, I don't have a map in front of me...)
Less time in the car is always better...
I shall have to check out the link you provided when I get home from work!
Yes, Ennis is directly above Limmerick (and below Galway). A nice, smallish market town with a strong Trad music heritage. You pick up the N20 (toward Cork) after you bypass Limmerick.
Lodging over Easter weekend could be a bit dicey, though. It would be best if you make sure to have reservations in place for those nights.
Bob
__________________
Bob
Help Us to Help You. The more you tell us about your plans (dates, interests, budget), the better we can tailor our advice to suit!
Welcome to my forum! I see you are already having a good exchange with Bob. He always has good advice to share about Ireland.
From Dublin to Armagh will generally take 2 to 2 1/2 hours. The highway is very good and you can travel well above my 35 mph rule. Since the highway is so quick I would suggest you come back south on the same road instead of going over to the west coast. A further 2 1/2 hours from Dublin would put you in Cashel. Perfect for your Monday overnight stay.
Ireland is busy around Easter and I suggest having reservations. Good Friday is the day when most things are closed. Easter Monday is a holiday too but things are open then and on Sunday. Public offices, banks, schools, etc. will be closed. But you will be able to use the bank ATMs get petrol and so forth.
I love how quickly everyone answers questions here, even with time differences!
I checked my map after work, and both solutions would work nicely. I must admit, since my daughter is working toward a Diploma in Traditional Irish Music this year (and since we spent time in Cashel in August), I'm inclined to make Monday a travel day and stop in Ennis.
Any recommendations for lodging in Ennis? Also recommendations for where to find some live Trad music to go with our probably late dinner? Of course, being Holy Monday, we probably won't be so lucky to find any open pubs...
After Gougan Barre, we will swing back through Cork to pick up some luggage I am taking home for my daughter. We are planning on working our way back to Dublin along the coastline. So let me run our tentative itinerary by you:
Monday night in Ennis (after driving all day from Armagh) Tuesday night in Macroom Wednesday stopping in Cork on our way to Ardmore for the night Thursday night in Arklow (we'd like to visit Avoca and the surrounding area) and Friday night somewhere near the Dublin airport for my Saturday morning flight back to the States.
I should probably spend time on the AA link provided - after living years ago in Texas, where you could drive 13 hours and never leave the state, it is hard to look at a map and judge distance and time.
Cindy, How wonderful you get to do multiple trips to Ireland. I'm green with envy. My daughter studied in Florence last summer, so my husband and I took our other 2 kids over to travel around for a couple weeks with her when her classes were done. Of course, she had already seen most of the places we wanted to go but she got to play tour guide for us... I'm hoping my son (a freshman) will do study abroad. I'll have to start suggesting Ireland as the place to go - for a full year. How great would that be?
Michele has lodging recs links posted at the very bottom of the main page. You have to scroll down, to get to them. I know that she has recommended the Old Ground Hotel and the Temple Gate. I also had an excellent experience at the Asford Court Boutique Hotel ( www.asfordaccommodation.com ), this past June. From there, were walked to Cruise's for dinner, which is usually a MAJOR Trad venue, only to discover that they had NO live music scheduled. Leaving the Pub slightly dejected, we heard music emanating from the King's Pub -- directly across the street.
There was a trio performing, but three other locals were 'sitting in', as well. there are a number of other venues further up the street (closer to the Old Ground) as well, but I can't vouch for them. This was a Sunday night, and a Festival had just ended as we were arriving, which MAY explain why Cruise's was devoid of performers.
There SHOULD be SOMETHING.....
You don't say how long your daughter will be at UCC, but up-coming Festivals in and around Ennis are linked below:
I didn't realize you had already been to Cashel. Scratch that one. You can also access my main website from the forum. Just below the log-in box is a light blue horizontal box. One of the links says "IrelandYes Index". Click on it to find the exact page of my site you want to go to and click on the link. To close the box click on it again.
Thank you so much, everyone! Nothing like sitting down to the computer before breakfast to find so many helpful replies. My day is bound to be good.
I am indeed fortunate to be able to visit my daughter so many times. She has been at UCC since August and has classes through May, but she has a student visa through September. She has to be back in the States at the end of August to resume her studies at her home university. If she decides to stay into the summer, I may be able to squeak out another trip, but we'll see.
Thanks for pointing out all the links on the site - I'm still learning my way around. I wish I'd found this forum and site before our trip in August! We had a great time, but I think the planning would have been easier.
If anyone wants to peek at my tentative itinerary on my previous post, I'd love to know if it works or if there is anything I should change or consider. My goal is to have lodgings booked by the end of this week.
Your itinerary will work but you will be on the go most of the time. Hopeuflly you can return again when you can settle into an area for 2 or 3 night stays. That is Ireland at its best.
When we came over in August, we spent three nights in Clare (Ballina/Killaloe) and visited The Burren, Doolin, and the Cliffs of Moher. We then stayed in Cork City for five nights, visiting Cobh, Blarney, and getting my daughter settled in Cork. Then we spent two nights in Dublin, where she was meeting up with her study aboroad group for orientation.
I agree, it is much better to stay in one place for two or three nights, but this is my last opportunity while she is still at UCC - my schedule won't allow for another trip before she comes home (my husband might be able to make a trip,though). When all four of us were there in August, it would have been unthinkable to try to do this itinerary, but with two of us, I think it will be easier. Our likes and levels of patience are very compatible.
As far as the amount of driving, I travel a lot in my career - a seven week concert tour every year in October and November, playing a concert in a different town every night. We travel by bus, anywhere from 90 minutes to 5 hours a day, depending on which part of the USA we are touring. When at home, my daily commute is a minimum of 45 minutes each way,sometimes over an hour. When I lived in Texas, I used to drive two hours each way to perform with a regional orchestra.
I will try to see if there is a place on the itinerary where we could trade in two shorter drives for one longer one and fit in a two night stay somehwere. Do you see any place we could shift? Maybe one less night in Armagh to find two nights elsewhere (we will be there four nights)?
Today she told me that she'd like to add Donegal to the itineray! I told her she might need to choose between Donegal and Gougan Barra - we'd have to lose part of our four nights in Armagh, as well. It will be interesting to see what she decides. I may have to start over with my planning! Kids!
My daughter thought about it, and she decided she'd rather explore new areas; so we're dropping the run south and staying north for the trip. Here is our new tentative itinerary:
4 nights in Armagh (city), over Easter weekend, giving us time to find the family roots and explore nearby areas...and maybe a day trip to Giant's Causeway.
1 night on the Inishowen Peninsula
2 nights near Donegal (town) in the Killybegs/Kilcar area, time to explore Slieve League, the Gaeltacht area, and find some lovely Donegal Tweed and traditional music.
1 night (still looking) somewhere in Sligo (county)?
Last night near Dublin airport for early morning flight.
Maybe I can change the title of the post to "Not Crazy anymore"?
I am enjoying the AA route planner - I'm using the Rule of 30-35, though, instead of their times. But having directions will be nice!
The AA routes for Donegal are somewhat out of date.. so you will get some pleasant surprises. They have not yet realised we have some fine stretches of new road.. ( we are near Donegal Town)
Did anyone ever try Blue Haven at Killybegs? I know it was mentioned a few times.
It would make more sense to take one day from Armagh and overnight near the Giant's Causeway. Then proceed on to Inishowen. Too much backtracking the other way. There is a ferry from Magilligan to Greencastle that will put you right on the Inishowen Peninsula.
Michele
P.S. As Anchoress says, there are always nice surprises in Ireland.
Leaving Armagh a day early would have us travelling on Easter, something I'd rather not do, if possible. Instead of a day trip to Giant's Causeway while we're in Armagh, what if we left early Monday to visit Giant's Causeway and then take the ferry to Inishowen Peninsula?
If AA is a bit out of date, where can I get my hands on a current map of Donegal roads?
The more I read about Donegal, the more excited I am that my daughter decided to stay North.
Dear Cindy.. The new roads are"probably " already on newish maps.
Dude will know, as one new stretch is the main Sligo - Donegal road, bypassing Bundoran and Ballyshannon. She drove that road to meet me so i think it is on maps; just the AA who have not caught up. It will reduce mileage a little and is an easier and faster drive.
I noticed when checking a route over to Leitrim this week that the AA have not included that.
I mentioned to them last year that they had also not noticed the new road through Mountcharles that has been there for years - and are still routing folk over Glengesh with no warning re the hairpin bends etc there.
When I emailed them re that, they expressed great surprise.... Irish, you see.
Yes, we will get an early start. What time do you suggest? Fortunately we are staying at the Youth Hostel in Armagh, so we can make our own breakfast before departing, and probably pack a lunch and snacks as well.
We have reservations at Trean House on the Inishowen Peninsula, near Carrowmenagh and Tremone Bay. They have already given me directions from the Giant's Causeway, taking the ferry, including the crossing times, so we will have to make sure we arrive at Magilligan well before the last crossing if we don't want the extra driving and an even later arrival.
How much time should I plan to spend at the Giant's Causeway?
Thanks for the information. I went out and found a HEMA map of Ireland that has far more detail than the one sent by Aer Lingus. It shows a main road with the number 15 on it, that goes through Ballyshannon and Bundoran. Is this the road you mentioned? If not, what identifying number should I look for on my way to Sligo?
Also, what route can you recommend from the Inishowen Peninsula down to Killybegs? I am tempted to drive through the Derryveagh Mountains, but I wonder how much time this would take.
Stay on the N15. It does not actually go through Bundoran and Ballyshannon, but skirts them on a fine new road. To enter the towns you have to go off the main road. It is very well signposted so you will have no problems at all, at all.
I do not know if you know the road classification here; forgive me if so. N is the widest, as there are so few motorways.. so the N15 is a National Road.
If you are new to driving here, it is best to stay on N roads until you find your feet. Even some of those are narrow by your standards.
R is Regional and some are narrow.
Those with no initial and no number are country lanes.....
If you are very new to Ireland, you are better driving from Inishowen on the N13.
That will take you right down to Donegal Town. Through the Barnesmore Gap which is stunning wild scenery.
Then before you hit the Town itself, there is a roundabout which leads you to Killybegs.. The real scenery starts after Killybegs then...Wide views of the ocean. The view from Blue Haven is awesome and they have made a garden now leading down to the edge.
The other route is longer.
Still the N13 as far as Letterkenny, then the N56 out, then left to Glenveagh, which is what you were seeking I think? A glorious drive taken slowly.
Glenveagh is well signposted.
Then one of two routes to Glenties/Ardara. Both are well signposted.
The shorter is the R254 to Lettermacaward, BUT there is a dreadful stretch on that with over 40 big bends and up and down. One we avoid.
The easier is longer; R254 to Doochary, then turn left towards Fintown and then towards Glenties.
But if you want to avoid Glengesh Pass, which is a difficult very steep double hairpin bend, you will need to take the R262 for Donegal Town, then take the Killybegs road when you see the sign.
It depends on your driving abilities. I avoid Glengesh. Awesome view from the top, but not an easy drive. And I am a confident driver.
I hope that that helps. We know these roads so well now... Blessings
We spent ten days driving in Ireland in August; my husband drove and I navigated. At first we were surprised how narrow the roads were compared to home, but we soon adjusted. The real surprises were in Cork City, where some roads were so narrow, we had to hop over the curb to let buses pass! The narrow bridges in County Clare were fun, where we had to wait for traffic signals to tell the traffic to change direction.
I booked an automatic transmission so I don't have to relearn to drive manual with my left hand (my husband is left-handed and had no problem adjusting), and I took someone's advice and booked a small three door car (since there are only two of us), allowing us more of a comfort zone on the narrower roads.
I will probably avoid Glengesh; I have driven some scary mountain roads in the States, but I don't think I want to try it driving on the left. I will get my map out later and find all the routes you describe. It certainly is nice to have this kind of information - a map just doesn't tell the whole story!
You should leave your hostel by 9 at the latest. You will need at least an hour at the Giant's Causeway. Take the bus down and back (from the visitor's center) as it will save time. When is the last sailing on the ferry?
The winter schedule for the ferry has the last ferry departing Magilligan at 1815. There is one crossing per hour all afternoon (1215, 1315, etc.). Leaving Armagh by 9 is no problem - my day starts at 0530 here at home, leaving the house between 0630 and 0700 every day. My daughter might have a harder time getting up that early, though...
I came across a news story that brings up some new questions, however. I see that the Queen of England will be in Armagh for Maundy Thursday services, and the newspapers are reporting an increase in security because of terror threats. PSNI is increasing security checkpoints and other security measures.
I am meeting my daughter in Dublin on Maundy Thursday, and we are driving to Armagh that day, to begin our four night stay. (We were actually thinking of attending the Maundy Thursday services that night, but maybe we should pass on that?)
I am wondering what to expect with increased security measures in regards to entering and travelling around Northern Ireland. (Or should I start another topic with this question?)
Security will obviously be very tight with the Queen in Armagh. You will probably have to go through check points. The police will just be checking on people, passports, driver's licenses and will probably question them as to what they are doing in Armagh. Tourists are no problem. Answer their questions, show them ID and perhaps your reservation printouts. Have that handy in the car. Whatever you do do not park anywhere where you are not allowed. That is very strict and can lead to your car being towed and perhaps blown up as a possible car bomb.
Believe me, nowadays there are usually no check points, etc. in No. Ireland. But when heads of state visit that is another matter. The same would happen if President Bush were visiting.