Hi Michelle, I've been browsing through your forum for a few weeks now, taking lots of ideas from it for our forthcoming trip in September. This is my second go at posting, the first time I accidentally pressed a wrong key when I'd finished and the whole lot disappeared! My husband and I have a month in Ireland, our itinerary has been a constant work in progress but I think we're finally getting there. Our single nights in different places have been worked back from 11 out of 30 nights to 6, trying to strike a balance between spending too much time packing and unpacking at various accommodations, and more time in the car on longer trips. So here is our itinerary, I hope it covers all things scenic, historical and cultural, we want to make the most of our time there. Ireland has been our dream holiday for many years.
Day 1: Arrive Dublin around midday, pick up hire car and head for Trim. Staying at Highfield House, only accommodation booked so far. Day 2: Trim Days 3 & 4: Drumshanbo or Ballinamore via Cavan. My father's family has it's roots in Lietrim and Cavan, so these destinations are very important to me. Not sure where to stay, depends on what is available. Any recommendations? Day 5: Derry (via Omagh) Days 6,7 & 8: Derry (intend going to Causeway Coast, perhaps Inishowen Peninsula, but will certainly have a good look around Derry) Day 9: Sligo (via Donegal/Ballyshannon) Day10: Ballycastle (Mayo) Day 11: Westport (via Belmullet trying to do too much?) Day 12: Roundstone (via Kylemore/Clifden) Day 13: Cong (looking to stay at Asford Castle as an indulgence, unless there are any other castles worth staying at, for the experience) Days 14 & 15: Doolin (via Galway/Ballyvaughan) Days 16,17,18 & 19: Dingle (via Ennis/Limerick/Adare, or would it be better to do the Tarbert ferry) This looks like being the longest distance we have to travel in one day. Days 20,21,22 & 23: Kenmare (we were assured by people who had done it, that ROK and Beara were doable in a day each, so I combined single nights on each of the peninsulas and based ourselves in Kenmare. Do you think it's better this way?) Day 24: Cashel Days 25 & 26: Kilkenny Days 27,28 & 29: Dublin (What's the best way to return our hire car on our arrival in Dublin? To the airport then catch public transport into Dublin, or tackle the traffic and drop off in the city centre, which is the current arrangement?) Day 30: Depart Dublin late afternoon.
Sorry this has been so long-winded. Any suggestions and/or feedback from you and your forum members would be greatly appreciated. After fiddling with our itinerary for so long, we would like to be able lock it in! It will likely be our only visit to Ireland, so I guess we've become a little obsessive about it!
Welcome to Michele's forum. We are pleased that you found your way here.
Over all, your itinerary looks doable.
For Days 3 & 4, I know of two excellent lodgings in Ballinamore:
Hamill's, which is in town centre, is very comfortable and the hosts are truly delightful. The homebaked breakfast breads will have you salivating every time you recall them upon your return home.
Riversdale Farm, which is on the edge of town, is a treasure, as well. Violet is one of the sweetest people I have ever met. You will not walk away from her breakfast table hungry, that is for sure! It is close enough in to take in some of the great pubs that they have to offer.
Onward we go! With three nights devoted to Derry, I hope that you will take advantage of Michael Cooper's walking tour. It is the most thorough and entertaining of all the guided walking tours on which I have been.
On Day 10, I would more likely head from Sligo to Westport and give Westport its due with two nights instead of one. Westport is a blast of a town.
Hazel Breeze is a wonderful B&B set just outside of town but not too far as to enjoy the pubs. It is well set for visiting Achill Island, which you would have time for if you stayed the two nights. Achill island is a fantastic slice of history and the forces of nature.
Westport to Roundstone is a short hop. Unlesss you have reason for staying in Roundstone, it might be better to make this a lunch stop and press on to Cong for your overnight at Ashford. Ashford is definitely an indulgence and well worth it. I have other favorite Castles, but this one is along your travel route. To note, if you are a fan of the Quiet Man movie, Pat Cohan's Pub is rumored to have finally opened.
I would use the night from roundstone & one from Doolin to explore Galway and its environs. St. Martin's is my home away from home when I am in Galway. They treat you like family, the beds are comfortable and the breakfast delicious and plentiful. It is a short walk to City Centre, five minutes, with its pedestrian friendly shopping area and Traditional music to be found in its pubs. If you like Fish 'n Chips, make sure you stop at McDonagh's for a bite. You can eat out at the picnic tables and people watch.
On to Doolin! Is there a reason for the two days in Doolin? I am a huge fan of Doolin and have spent two or three nights there, myself. However, being a musician, I am more into the night time pub activity. Doolin is easily experienced with a stroll down Fisher street and lunch in one of the pubs. One night here to break up the drive to Dingle would be perfect.
On to Dingle! In between Doolin and Dingle, you can stop to visit the Cliffs of Moher, then continue down the coast road to the Tarbert Ferry. It is a great way to break up the drive and the twenty or so minutes gives you time to stretch your legs and enjoy the sea air. It is good to see that you have devoted so much time to Dingle. There is plenty there to occupy your days. If you are looking for lodgings within Dingle proper, I would suggest The Blooming Wildflower Cottage. It is right on the harbour and at Town centre. The rooms are comfortable and the food is marvelous. You will have time to experience one of the Sciuird Archaeological Tours, which is like a time machine taking you back through the history of the peninsula and then bringing you forward.
On to Kenmare! I would break this up and do two nights in Kenmare and two nights in Kinsale, if you want to see both the ring of Kerry and the Beara Peninsula without wearing yourself out. Each is a full day in and of itself. Unless you are planning on using one of your Dinngle days to explore Killarney and its National Park, You would probably want to spend some time in Killarney, as well. Having just come off the Dingle peninsula, I would probably forgo Beara and devote the time to the Killarney area. One of my favorite lodgings in Kenmare is Shelburne Lodge. The rooms are quite comfortable and breakfast is delicious.
On to Cashel! This could very well be a stop enroute to Kilkenny, as the entire trip between Kenmare & Kilkenny, including the Cashel stop, is about 4 hours. Add in a few hours to tour the Rock of Cashel and it rounds out to a nice leisurely day's driving.
On to Kilkenny. I am glad to see that you have included this phenomenal town in your itinerary. It is oft overlooked. If you are looking to stay in town, I know that Michele has some lodging suggestions here on her site. I usally stay just outside of town at Lawcus Farm Guesthouse. I am including the link but be aware that it is not working at the moment as they have the site down for updates.
As to turning in your rental, I would suggest that you turn it in at the airport and take a taxi in to your lodgings, as navigating through Dublin can be a trial. If you need lodgings, I, being a creature of habit, stay at Abberley House B&B, which is well situated close to Temple Bar & The Botanical Gardens and only a short, leisurely 15 minute stroll to City Centre.
This will get you started. I am sure that Michele and the others will chime in soon.
What a wonderful trip you are planning. I agree with Bit about Doolin, I was there for lunch off-season and it was very pretty but not any more so than many places in Ireland. I've been to Ireland eight times and I slow travel, I haven't seen all of Ireland and have only been as far as Newry in Northern Ireland, but let me tell you, I love the place and only health has kept me from going for my 9th trip. I've heard very good things about Shelburne Lodge in Kenmare. I stayed 7 nights at The Lodge, it's a little closer to town and it was very comfortable. In Dingle I stayed 6 nights at Greenmount House and I think it is my favorite of all the places I've stayed. It has comfortable rooms and the views are out-standing and the family very helpful. My sons had a really large suite and I had the smallest room and shower but the view was the same. It is down a steep hill to the town, about a few minutes walk. I managed to get back up.
Michele has a great list for accommodations and she hasn't steered me wrong, if you have time before your trip, I'd get her book.
I am just back from 32 days in Ireland and I want to thank all the other forum members for helping out with my forum while I was away. You have a good long trip planned too and I think Bit's suggestions are good ones. However, in order to get two nights in Kinsale I think I would pull one day from Dingle and one from Kenmare. I just stayed at a fabulous B&B about 4 miles from Kinsale overlooking the river. Wonderful views and very quiet. The house and host cannot be beat: Rivermount House. It was a real highlight of my trip.
I recommend Trim Castle Hotel in Trim. Highfield House was not to my taste. You may be able to get a two-night special rate at the hotel if you click on Special Offers.
Take a look at my Lodgings page for more great places to stay.
Hello again Bit, Joan and Michelle, thankyou all for your input.
Bit, you have certainly given us a lot to think about. We appreciate the time it must have taken to work through our itinerary! With your suggestions in mind, we will make the following changes.
Days 10 & 11: Two nights at Westport, leaving out Ballycastle. Which route from Sligo would give us the better experience of Mayo? Should we head to Ballina then east or west of Lough Conn, or further inland via Swinford?
Day 12: Cong
Day 13: Galway
Day 14: Galway or Doolin. We opted for 2 nights in Doolin originally, because I had read of the lively music scene there. My husband plays guitar and enjoys a beer so it sounded good! Looks like Galway can give us that too. Plus having a full day in the Doolin area without travelling anywhere meant we could do the Cliffs early in the day then explore the Burren at leisure.
Day 15: Doolin
Day 16: Dingle, via Tarbert ferry.
We think we will probably stick to our 4 nights on Dingle, we want to really just kick back and relax and "absorb". The archaeological tour is on our to-do list. We intend to use one of our Kenmare days to explore Killarney and it's National Park. We can make the decision regarding ROK or Beara when we are in Kenmare depending on how we feel. We like the look of Shelburne Lodge. Breaking up a day trip from Kenmare to Kilkenny at Cashel sound good. Is it worth considering a third night at Kilkenny? Or could we make better use of that night further back? I think 3 nights in Dublin will be sufficient for us. Bit, Abberley House sounds great and we will change the arrangements for our rental drop off. The airport is a much better proposition.
Joan, thankyou for suggesting the Lodge and Greenmount House. I will be looking up their websites before we make any decisions about accommodation in Dingle and Kenmare. Eight trips, I'm envious!
Michelle, welcome back!
Thankyou all for your feedback and support. Regards Meredith
Thanks for the "welcome home". I'm glad you are getting some good ideas from the forum and the wonderful members here. Don't forget to take a quick look at my Lodgings page too. My favorite in Kenmare is Sallyport House. I have many others all over Ireland. Have fun choosing your accommodations. And if you need feedback let us know.
You are more then welcome. You know, Dingle has a few really good guesthouses. Greenmount is the one I stayed in but I'm sure there are others very nice. I did love my stay at Greenmount. As I said before, Michele has never steered me wrong.
Glad that I could offer you some help. If it is music you are looking for, then Westport would be a great place for that, as they have a great music scene there. Perhaps you might consider using the extra day here. Will your husband be taking his guitar along? If so, he might be able to play-in on some of the seissuns.
Doolin has some excellent music but it is limited to its three pubs, which makes it quite crowded at any of the three. The crowds may have lessened a bit in September. Your best bet for good Trad is McGann's which is in the upper end of the village. Gus O'Connor's, the most well known of the three, also as great music but due to its lay-out, you will be hard pressed to find seating in with the musicians. The last time we tried to get in some music at Gus', we ended up in the front room, listening to the music over the speakers. McGann's is much smaller and requires strategic planning: go early for dinner and stake your claim to a table. However, the advantage is that you actually get to interact with the musicians.
As to the Burrens, If you take the coast road down from Galway to Doolin, you can spend as much time in the Burren as you wish. A straight through drive would have you in Doolin in a little over two hours. By making a day of it, you can have a relaxing time going through the Burren and then arrive in Doolin in the early to mid afternoon. Within the Burren, you will find a lot of must stops such as the Poulnabrone Dolmen, Aillwee Cave, Black Head lighthouse and several other dolamens and ring forts. You could stop in Kilfenora and visit the Burren centre. It is a small village but I love its High crosses and the tiny cathedral dedicated to St. Fachtnan. The High Crosses are fantastic. My Favorite being Doorty's Cross.
Your inside knowledge and advice is so helpful, and very much appreciated. Knowing about Doolin's nightlife and the Burren ( your suggestions were all on our to-do list, that's why I thought maybe we'd need 2 nights there) we will probably do with one night in Doolin. We are then left with 2 extra nights for : Westport (3 in total) or Galway (2)(also gives us an extra day to see Aran Islands if weather is fine) or 2 nights somewhere on south coast (Kinsale as Michele suggested or Cobh) or somewhere in Wicklow. Decisions, decisions!! My husband won't be taking his guitar, it's a bit too far to lug it all the way from Australia. We'll be having enough trouble sticking to our luggage limits!!
Kinsale is much nicer and more lively than Cobh, which is a bit "faded". You can easily visit Cobh from Kinsale (just did it myself). There is a ferry across the river that avoids Cork City traffic.
Again, very glad that I could be of some help. I would definitely agree that Kinsale would be the best choice between there and Cobh. Be prepared to loosen your belt a notch, as Kinsale is one of the gourmet capitols of Ireland. There are many a delectable choice to entice the palate.
A day trip to Cobh would be suffice, as there are terrific things to see there. The ferry ride is quick and avoiding any kind of traffic is always a plus for me.
You will find good music in Dingle, as well as Westport & Galway. I had to search for it but found it in Kinsale. all you should need to do is ask your hosts, as they should be able to tell you where the best places are.
Many thanks once again. You have certainly given us lots to think about. Now what we need to do is to sit down with pen and paper and fine tune our itinerary taking everything into account. Joan's idea of "slow travel" is very appealing so hopefully we can achieve that to a certain extent by spending more than one night in different places. We are very conscious of trying to do too much and seeing Ireland through a car windscreen, even though we have a month. With this in mind, we have let go of the south east. I must admit I am having trouble letting go of Ennis/Limerick/Adare in order to take the Killimer/Tarbert ferry. In all fairness to my husband who will be doing most of the driving, the ferry does give the driver a break as you say.
Once you have a firm itinerary you will never miss what you have cut out. Instead you will enjoy the places you have chosen even more because you will have the time to do them justice. Even though you have a month there are just so many interesting things to see and do in Ireland that you can never see it all. After 45 trips I am still discovering new and interesting "hidden gems".
Do build in as many multiple-night stays as possible. Mix them up with some one-night stays to get you from point A to B. That is a recipe for success.
We can only hope that will be the case! This is likely to be our only trip, but as I have heard from so many people that once Ireland takes hold of you, one trip will never be enough, we will probably be planning our next visit on the plane on the way home!
Michele
I have ordered your book and look forward to receiving it!