This forum looks fantastic! i am hoping for some experienced Ireland traveler's advice. My wife and I are coming for 12 nights in September from the US (w/o kids!) for my 40th birthday. We will do the Southeast/west tour of Dublin to Shannon. I have a decent idea of my itinerary, but am looking for some advice on some details. My wife is a little concerned about "checking in and out" of the hotels/B&B's we choose, but I want to take our time visiting the sites, listening to music at the pubs, and not worry about driving after a few pints....
Day 1 Dublin Day 2 Dublin Day 3 Dublin Day 4 County Wicklow to Kilkenny Overnight - Kilkenny Day 5 Kilkenny to Waterford Overnight - Waterford Day 6 Waterford to Cork Overnight - Cork Day 7 Cork to Kinsale Overnight - Kinsale Day 8 Kinsale to Glengariff to Kenmare Overnight - Kenmare Day 9 Kenmare to Killarney Overnight - Killarney Day 10 Option #1 - AM - Killarney Sites (Park, etc) Overnight Killarney Day 10 Option #2 All Day - Ring of Dingle Overnight Killarney or Tralee Day 11 - Option #1 - Drive up to River Shannon - ferry across Drive to Galway Overnight - Galway Day 11 - Option #2 - Drive to Limerick Overnight - Limerick Day 12 Limerick to Cliffs of Moher, Overnight Shannon Day 13 AM Flight to USA
Is this enough time in each place? Should we add another day in Kilkenny? Or is 1 night in Kilkenny and 1 night in Waterford enough? Kenmare, Killarney area - 3 nights? Too much? Should we just have Killarney the base or is Kenmare worth staying a night? Do we not bother to try to make it up to Galway for one short night (save for next trip)?
Welcome to the Forum! We are a cheerful bunch here and look forward to helping make this a smash Birthday trip!
Too many one nights is the first thing that I see. You would be better to stay in an area for at least two nights each. It is not a bad thing you are trying to do, seeing as much as possible. However, it becomes sort of a green blur when you try to see it all in twelve days. You did well in booking an open end flight, into Dublin and out of Shannon. Here is what I would suggest:
Day 1- 3 - Dublin -use one of your days to enjoy a Mary Gibbons Newgrange Tour.
Day 4 (Pick up your rental car on this morning)- Kilkenny
Day 5 Kinsale - Plenty of time in between Kilkenny & Kinsale to make a stop in Waterford. A Caveat to driving in Cork City: It is a mind boggle of one-ways and canal crossings. I am a seasoned traveler and even I avoid it when possible.
Day 6-7 Killarney - You can still stop in Kenmare for lunch on your way towards Killarney from Kinsale. The coastal drive is breathtaking. This will put you into Killarney in the afternoon, leaving you time to wander about town and find a good pub for the evening. On your full day, you can choose:
Killarney National Park and its Environs Gap of Dunloe Tour
Of the two, I would say the Gap tour will create fabulous memories.
Day 8-9 Dingle - Rather than a cursory drive around the ring of Dingle, taking two nights in this delightful spot is far better. Settle into Dingle Town and enjoy its many pubs, shops and friendly people.
Day 10-11 Galway- Enroute from Dingle to Galway, take the Ferry across the shannon, follow the coast road along the coast of Clare, stop at the Cliffs of Moher, lunch in Doolin and a walk down Fisher Street, wander up through the Burren and into Galway. That route leaves you an afternoon, a full day and the better part of day twelve to expore Galway and the Connemara area.
Day 12 - Bunratty - Overnight here for a short drive to the Shannon airport in the morning - Finish off your Ireland experience with a Dinner show at The Corn Barn in Bunratty Folk Park.
Day 13 - AM Flight from Shannon - and the planning of your next Ireland adventure begins!
This type of a plan allows you to experience Ireland instead of just checking things off as you go past. You will still see plenty but without the hassle of packing and unpacking and without too much windshield time.
This will get you started. The others will chime in shortly.
So...you are recommending to avoid Cork (stay in Kinsale) and also Waterford. My concern is the morning of Day 4 when we leave Dublin to Kilkenny through Wicklow we will not have much time to enjoy the ride/stops. However, you would know! I like your suggestions on how to get Galway into the trip and spending more time in Killarney/Dingle area.
Sounds like some good advice from Bit, who is a mainstay on this forum with some great information on many things Irish. I certainly concur with her advice regarding your need to focus more on two night stays --- and by all means I agree to get rid of any overnight in Cork. Most find this gritty city anything but nice, and the biggest thing is a night spent there is one less spent in a wonderful place like Kenmare or Dingle.
Wave to Cork when you drive by it on the outer portion of the city. That will be enough.
You will have plenty of time to visit Glendalough & Wicklow before heading to Kilkenny.If you get an early start from Dublin, say 8:30, with stops at Glendalough or Powerscourt, you should be in Kilkenny by mid afternoon. This will give you time to relax, take in some of the sites, poke about in a few shops and enjoy a night at the pub. In a straight shot, Dublin to Kilkenny is only about two hours of drive time. You will actually find yourself starting to slow down to a much less hectic pace as you drive Ireland's roads. Most will only allow a maximum speed of 35. I have wandered the Dublin-Glendalough- Kilkenny route myself. "Wander" being the operative word. I still found my way to Kilkenny by three in the afternoon and that was with leaving my Dublin Lodgings at 8 in the morning.
On your between Kilkenny and Kinsale, you can stop into the Waterford factory for the tour and a look at the shop offerings. I have found that the items on offer are usually not a bargain. You can get better deals on Waterford at the Blarney Woolen Mills or Standun in Spiddal outside of Galway. I am more of a fan of the Dingle crystal than Waterford, myself. An Gailearai Beag is one of my favorite places in Dingle to find a myriad of treasures crafted by local artists.
Bit & Sidz- Thanks again!! Outstanding advice. This is what I have learned.... Waterford, Cork, Limerick, Shannon - no overnight Can still do a Waterford tour (a must for my wife) and get over to Kinsale for a fine meal.... Dublin - On Day 3, we will take the tour you recommended Killarney - we will take the Gap of Dunloe tour as well
I you do not mind asking a few more of my bothersome questions.... Dublin - thanks for your recommondation on the Can I still do the Ring of Baera on my way from Kinsale to Killarney? Is it worth it to make the loop? Or will I see the beautiful sites going from Kinsale to Glengariff up to Killarney? The Ring of Kerry? Is it worth it to take a tour, or can we just make the trip in our rental car?
You are off to a great start with your planning and sounds like you will have a good plan put together. The debate on the Ring of Kerry is a lively one at times. I personally do not think it is worth the time and miles needed to travel it, and much prefer the Beara, Mizen Head and Dingle peninsulas for what I consider better scenery with a fraction of the tourists.
There will be others on here who will sing the Ring's praises, but I think there are other spots with better sights to see.
The Beara and Mizen roads are really spectacular and not that widely traveled, so you won't have to be dodging tour buses like raging bulls -- not the case in the Ring, where buses will be abundant.
Just my opinion if you don't want to fight crowds.
Sidz
Here is a short film on Mizen Head area to provide some scenes.
I am not a huge fan of the Ring of Kerry. It is a very beautiful drive messed up by the myriad of tiour buses and other tourist drivers all wanting to see it themselves. I would suggest that you do the Gap of Dunloe tour instead. Once you have been up the Gap in a Pony Trap and across the lake in a boat, you will find yourself wanting to do it all again. I found the Dingle Peninsula and the Beara to be far more ruggedly beautiful than the Ring of Kerry.
If you drive the coast from Kinsale you will see some ruggedly beautiful scenery that very few others venture off to find. Those would be the Beara & Mizen roads to which Sidz refers. I find it to be a much more enjoyable holiday when I am on less traveled roads.
We look forward to your itinerary post. I am sussing out lodging suggestions for you, as we speak.
Bob, We loved Mizen Head, went all the way to the lighthouse. We were physically unable to walk all the way down, but it is such a beautiful drive getting there. A little cafe is in the area where you buy your tickets for the lighthouse, and we enjoyed our sandwiches and salad. In case you are getting hungry at the time you are down there. My husband and I found that the Beara was a much better and thoroughly enjoyed the scenery - compared to the Ring! Good luck getting your trip planned and enjoy your trip once you are there. Everything you see will be well worth seeing! What you don't see, you will enjoy on your next visit! I have gotten a lot of good tips from Bit, no matter who she is helping!! Youngka
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Youngka- Thanks for your feedback and suggestions. I am so thrilled with this forum! Our itinerary has changed, for the better, since I posted! WOW! We are now looking at exploring Mizen Head, Ring of Beara, and Ring of Dingle. We will take the Gap of Dunlop tour as well. Cheers, Bob
It sounds like with the wonderful help of the forum members here you have your itinerary well under control. I'm glad you heeded their advice to have more multiple-night stays instead of one night almost everywhere. It will make your trip much more enjoyable. For places to stay go to my Lodgings page. My book is also full of good choices. If you are looking for something specific let us know and we will offer the personal recommendations that we have.
I hope you do not mind giving me a bit more insight....I am almost finished with my planning, and I apologize if I am repeating my questions.....I have never been this indecisive about any vacation because of all the outstanding insight on this forum!!
There are 2 days that have me concerned a bit (maybe too much driving)....
Kinsale to Killarney I want to experience the coastal drive. The video Sidz sent to me on Mizen Head and what I read about Ring of Beara makes me want to experience both of these sites. Will I be able to go Kinsale to Killarney in one day still taking our time with doing the drive to Mizen and the Ring of Beara? Will it be too dark by the time we get around the Ring of Beara to Kenmare to Killarney to enjoy this view?
Dingle to Galway/Salthill We leave Dingletown early, take the ferry across Shannon, drive to the Cliffs & Burren and into Galway/Salthill....is this realistic?
I am debating whether to add a night in Kenmare, still have 2 nights in Killarney and 2 in Dingle and spend 1 night in Doolin area (and save Galway for next trip).....Still 12 day itinerary - 3 nights in Dublin, 1 in Kilkenny, 1 in Kinsale, 1 in Kenmare, 2 in Killarney, 2 in Dingle, 1 in Doolin area, 1 in Bunratty. I know it may get back to my original question of too many one night stays....
The issue with doing any of the peninsulas is kind of a two-fold dilemma as far as travel is concerned. First, you can't make many miles in a timely manner because of the twists and turns, and you won't want to anyway because of the scenery.
Kinsale to Killarney, using the coastal route, would be a long haul. I think you would have to divide that trip up and perhaps stay in Skibereen or Bantry to break it up and force yourself to do the ol' one night stand routine if you want to see everything without losing your mind.
As far as Dingle to Galway, I've made that trip, and it's about four hours using the ferry. To be real honest, after you have seen the Mizen, Beara, Dingle peninsulas, you can skip the fabled Cliffs of Moher in my opinion. The spot is nice, but it has become a tourist trap of sorts and you will save yourself 8 Euros just to park! And if the weather is suspect at all, by all means keep driving by it. By driving from Dingle to Galway and not stopping at the Cliffs, you can make this journey pretty easilly, even allowing for a stop to gaze around the Burren a bit, and grab a nice meal along the way.
Just a thought. I've seen the Cliffs, and enjoyed them, but the unspoiled beauty of the other areas connected with me in a more tranquil way. It used to be a rugged spot to enjoy nature, now there is a new visitors center, paved paths to the observation areas, and the aforementioned parking lot that charges the large fee. (Heck, there's even a restaurant there now! Progress -- so to speak -- has taken away some of the Cliff's mystic qualities).
The fact is you can only do so much -- save the rest for another trip and make sure you allow enough time to do what you have planned.
Another way to go is to exchange Kenmare for Killarney and base yourself out of Kenmare to see the Killarney area. Kenmare is a smaller township and is always my choice between the two.
The drive from Kinsale to Kenmare using the coastal route is scenic, slow and still doable in a day. With stops, you are looking at a 6-7 hour day but it will be filled with beauty and breathstealing scenery. Just the drive without stops is a little over 4 hours. If you were to continue into Killarney, it would be another hour on top. I would suggest having lunch at McCarthy's Bar in Castletownbere.
You would depart early (8ish) from Kinsale head west along the coast on the R600 to the N71 arriving first at Bantry Bay, then through the towns of Bantry and Glengarriff then on to the Beara Peninsula. Castletownbere is the first of the Beara Peninsula towns. At the tip of Beara, you come to Dursey Island, there is nothing on the island but sheep but the trip by cable car makes the experience worthwhile. For the less adventurous, you can get some great photos without the Cable car experience. Then its around Kenmare Bay and into Kenmare town. Expect to make plenty of stops for Pictures along this rugged and beautiful drive.
The Dingle to Galway drive is an easy day trip, as well. With built in stops on the Ferry and at the Cliffs, lunch in Doolin and then through the Burren.
Whatever you decide to do, it will be enjoyable. Try not to focus on what you feel you must cut out. There is a memory waiting to be created around every bend in Ireland. I cannot recall the many things that I left "until next time" but I can vividly recall the feeling of awe that overtook me with each new find, each new detour, each new variant of "the plan". The rhythm of Ireland will take hold and you will only feel blessed for what you experience.
Make sure you purchase a copy of Michele's book. You will be glad that you have it along.
Bob, lots of good places in Bit's forum notes, before this one. If you want a place to eat in Kenmare try Pesto or Bistro for dinner (Bistro isn't open for lunch -- at least the last time we were there). You may want to also buy a Heritage map at one of the tourist centers, lots of historical things you can see, and may pass up if not right on the road. We used ours a lot! Youngka
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Bit- Sorry for the delay in my posting. My wife & I leave this week - very excited. Final itinerary with a couple final questions.... Day 1-3 Dublin-Brooks Hotel. On Day 3 would you suggest a Newgrange Tour or a Wild Wicklow mountain coach tour? Day 4 Kilkenny - Butler Court Day 5 Kinsale - Landfall Day 6-7 Killarney - Arbutus. Booked for Gap of Dunloe Tour Day 8-9 Dingle - Castlewood House Day 10-11 Galway - Park House. Should we book the Connemara and Cong Coach Tour? We will be visiting Cliffs and Burren on the way to Galway. Also, is the Trad on the Prom show in Salthill worth it? Day 12 - Bunratty - Bunratty Lodge
Thanks for all of your help! I will post when we return....
It looks good. Which tour you take from Dublin depends on what you like. If you are interested in Ireland's ancient past and archaeology, then go to Newgrange. If you like mountains, lakes, beautiful scenery and ruins of old monastic sites then go to Wicklow. Dublin Bus does a tour that takes in not only Glendalough but Powerscourt, which is one of Ireland's most beautiful gardens.
For Galway if you don't want to drive on that day you can certainly book the Connemara tour but check to be sure it is running at this time of year. I have heard good feedback on Trad on the Prom.
Have a wonderful trip and do let us know how it goes when you return. Bon voyage!
Go mbeannaí Dia duit (May God Bless you) as your travel. I am sure that you have been kept busy finalizing details and packing.
If you are planning to do Glendalough and Powerscourt enroute to Kilkenny, I would probably do the NewGrange Tour whilst in Dublin. Mary does a fabulous job on her tour. You will find yourself feeling as if you are traveling back in time as an active participant not just an observer. NewGrange is an experience I think everyone should have at least once in their lifetime. The sense of time shifting as I stood in the chambers was at once unsetlling and a comfort.
Out of Galway, the Connemara tour can be quite a bit of fun. If the weather is calm, you might consider a day trip to Inis Mor, as well.
I have heard some great things about Trad on the Prom, but so far, I have not made it back to check it out for myself.
I look forward to reading all about your trip upon your return.