I'm sure Michele and other seasoned travelers will have something to say on this subject, but having just gotten back from my first trip to Ireland, I can try to offer you some advice.
My father and I spent 17 nights in Ireland in September, and we'd been planning the trip for upwards of 8 months. We created an intricate itinerary and booked all of our reservations in advance. This is how we've always traveled, and it's always been good for us to have a firm grasp of what we're doing once we get to where we're going. I've talked to others who prefer to sort it out as they go along, taking advice from locals along the way about where to go, where to stay, etc. These are my more adventurous friends.
During our own Irish trip, however, we were so busy exploring that the task of sitting down and plotting our next move, finding accommodations, etc. would've taken time away from the sightseeing. We stayed in Kilkenny in the same B&B with another family from America who were "winging it." They wound up spening an entire morning sitting in front of a map and talking to the proprietor of the B&B about what to do next. September isn't exactly high season either, and these folks had trouble finding open accommodations in Kinsale (which is where they finally decided they'd like to go next). They expressed regret to me that they hadn't sorted it out ahead of time, and they felt that my father and I had seen so much more of Kilkenny than they had because we didn't have to worry about making plans.
When my father and I first set out to plan this trip, we gave a lot of thought to "winging it" and just showing up in Dublin with our suitcases, a reserved car rental, and an open mind. If you're not a seasoned traveler (which I think you inidicated you are not), then I think it might be best to do as much advance planning as you can. Arriving in a new country can be intimidating (it was for us, at first), and having a good idea of what you're going to do will help reduce the initial shock.
About making an itinerary: you're in the right place at IrelandYes.com. The people on this board know their stuff, and my trip was a huge success, thanks mostly to their input. First, you need a time frame to work with. 7 nights? 10 nights? 14 nights? Once you have this sorted out, it's easier to go about allotting time to various places. We took the southern loop of Ireland, landing in Dublin and making our way through counties Kilkenny, Cork, Kerry, Clare, and Mayo before scooting back to Dublin at the end. This seems to be the most tourist-friendly route to take, especially for Ireland newbies, as it contains so many different landscapes. The farmlands of Kilkenny, the coast of Cork, the ruggedness of Kerry, etc. I prefer a slower pace, with no less than two nights at each stop. It allows you to get a flavor for things. I think when you rush through a country, staying a night in each town, it all blurs together by the end to form a big meaningless haze. But again, it all depends on your style.
About buses and trains: we did not use them. We rented a car, and found it to be a very desireable way to see the country. We did everything on our terms and on our own timeframe, instead of having to abide by a bus or train schedule. I spoke with several other tourists during our trip who were using the public transportation system and most of them expressed their regrets for not renting cars themselves. It gives you more freedom (although it also opens up a whole new set of worries, like adapting to Irish driving, finding your way, and much more). Strangely enough, I don't recall seeing one single railroad track during our stay in Ireland (well... maybe in Cork City, actually).
But back to my original point, about planning in advance: I can recall a windy, rainy afternoon when we were driving to Kenmare. We'd gotten off to a late start leaving Kinsale, and had gotten lost a couple times along the way to Kenmare. We'd had a close call or two on some narrow roads in Co. Kerry and we'd been arguing over which routes to take. We were pretty exhausted and frazzled by the time we finally arrived at our B&B, and dusk was setting in. I remember thinking how great it was not to have to drive around town inquiring about B&B availability, getting turned away from 1/2 dozen places, and then finally settling on something either overpriced or shabby. We had a room with our name on it, so to speak, and any added worries to our already stressful day were thus eliminated. It's something to consider... there are always going to be small kinks in any trip. Our trip was almost always smooth, but that was because we had a firm grasp of what we were doing next. I'd studied many maps before flying over to Ireland, and I'd studied this forum in particular and what people said were the do's and don'ts of Irish travel.
Good luck! If the people here are even half as valuable to your trip as they were to mine, then you'll be well prepared for a great vacation.
John (jsarcher) has started you out with some excellent info and shared tips from his recent trip to Ireland. In the spring you can generally "go on the fly". There are a few holidays to contend with. You can view them on my Public Holidays page. Dublin always requires reservations. Certain popular places can be very crowded on weekends such as Galway, Kinsale, Killarney, Kenmare, Kilkenny, Dingle, Westport. You will want to take all that into account when making your itinerary.
Have you looked at my Getting Started page? One of the first things to do is contact Tourism Ireland for free magazines, booklets and brochures. And don't forget to ask for a free map. That is vital for planning.
There is camping available. You will find links on my Links page along with hostel info.
As you see, if you take the time to look through the various pages of my website there is a lot of info to help you.
As for planning an itinerary you will need your map, a list of "must sees" and a calendar. If you are taking public transportation you need the schedules.
As John suggested, even if you do not reserve places to stay you should have a general idea of what you want to see and where you are going. It will save you time and money.
Dear Miss Adventures: We're traveling (first timers) to Ireland in April 2009. The best thing you can do is buy Michelle's book (she wouldn't tell you that herself -- it's better than any other guidebook I've found -- and I've spent a fair amount on them). The second thing to do is "lurk" on this site and eavesdrop on the conversations -- the folk here are so nice, so helpful, and fun to read even when you have nothing to contribute! Enjoy your planning. I'm sure enjoying ours! Rebecca
Renting a car is the best way to see Ireland. However, many have done it by bus and rail. It takes more planning and you must stick to schedules. Trains generally hub out from Dublin. Take a look at those timetables that I suggested before for more info.
Michele
P.S. Rebecca, Many thanks for your kind words. I'm delighted that my book is helping you.
I'm planning a trip for June 2009, have paid for and sent my itinerary wishes to Michele, but it has been a month and I haven't heard anything. Am planning on her answers before i book the trip, but don't want to wait too long. I don't want to make any reservations until I see what she recommends. there will be three of us, my son, my daughter and me and we are planning to drive and stay in B&B's. We plan to stay in mostly South Western Ireland, and some of the answers about reservations in Kinsale, etc. are worrying me. Have never planned a trip on our own before. I also plan to buy Michele's 2009 book, will order it right after the first of the year.
Welcome to the forum! Generally, B&Bs start taking reservations after the first of the year. Since you are going in June there is time for planning. Don't worry, you will have your plans in plenty of time for your trip. Including Kinsale!
If you have specific questions feel free to post here or drop me an email. Your itinerary will come together.