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Post Info TOPIC: Very early planning stages - Northwest Ireland in Summer 2010


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Very early planning stages - Northwest Ireland in Summer 2010


OK, time for my fourth trip to Ireland, and my first trip north of County Clare :)

Me and probably two other girlfriends (Kim and Carla) want to go to Ireland in the summer (May?) 2010.  We would like to spend three weeks, mostly in the northwest area.  We are thinking of flying into Belfast, driving along the Antrim coast, and then staying in Donegal, Sligo, Mayo and Galway.  Then we would fly out of Shannon.

One of the things we were thinking of combining in this trip is a weekend Irish Gaelic session near Gleann Cholm Cille - http://www.oideas-gael.com/Leathanacha/cursai.html.  We took a basic course in San Francisco last year, so now we want to run with the big dogs :)

Another thing we are looking at is what it might be like to live in Ireland.  That's one of the reasons we want to go to Galway, to see if it would work for us.  Kim would be moving as well, so this is a scouting expedition.

Kim has been to Ireland once before (with me in 2006), and both Kim and Carla joined me on my Scottish adventure in 2008. 

We would be renting a car, and staying at B&Bs, though we want to do self-catering as much as we can (to increase the 'living there' feel, and find the problems with it).

We love beautiful landscapes, ancient and spiritual sites, traditional music and the people themselves (hanging out in pubs).  Kim loves horses, I love cliffs, Carla loves beaches :)

Besides the obvious (Slieve League, etc.), what are some suggestions of off-the-beaten track things we might explore?   I've done some research so far, but nothing intense yet.

Thanks for any help/advice/info you can give!

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Christy,

A forum member in the past did the language class at Glencolumkill and loved it. You might look into a self-catering place nearby for that week. If you do a forum search you may come up with the posts, although it was a few years ago. As I recall there was self-catering available nearby. However, you would want to book in ahead as soon as your plans are firm.

So the class would take up a week. That will give you two weeks for Antrim, Sligo, Mayo and Galway. Since you will be flying into Belfast, you will probably want two days for the Antrim coast at a minimum. First, you will have jet-lag so who knows how the first day will go? Some places I enjoyed are:

Giant's Causeway
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (although I did not cross it!)
Dunluce Castle
Downhill & Mussenden Temple
Various beaches and coves along the route
Torr Road
The Dark Hedges (nr. Armoy)

In the Sligo area are a lot of ancient sites:

Carrowmore
Carrowkeel
Creevykeel Court Cairn
Knocknarea (Maeve's cairn)
Tons of Yeats associated places to visit

Mayo:

Achill Island
Westport
Ceide Fields
Museum of Country Life (nr. Castlebar)
Croagh Patrick

Donegal:

Fabulous coastline and beaches
Glenveagh Castle & Park
Grianan of Aileach
Inishowen Peninsula

Galway:

Galway City
Connemara
Great coast and mountains
Kylemore Abbey
Cong & Quiet Man country (although officially in Mayo)
Various off-shore islands including Aran Islands

There's a start for you. Have fun planning!

Michele

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Well, that certainly gives me lots to start on! Since I've not been to the northwest yet, are there any general advisements for us? I'm not sure what I'm asking for here. For instance, people visiting the Isle of Skye are warned of midges. Folks going to Dublin are warned not to drive :) That sort of thing I guess!

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Christy,

Your only problem will be crossing things off your "to do" list. You can run into midges in Ireland too. It is much rarer than in Scotland (why, I don't know). But it can happen. Can't think of anything in particular at the moment.

Michele

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Actually, midges are even more of a plague here in Ireland than in Scotland.

From someone who has lived in both, be assured of that.

We have to put screens up at doors and windows here and some day stay indoors.

We get them even in winter. I came in with bitten ankles from the garden in December.

And thay are vicious wee things.  

Ticks are a plague here also now.

Probably another spin of from global warming.

Another of the things we as residents are very fully aware of.

Michele Erdvig wrote:


Christy,

Your only problem will be crossing things off your "to do" list. You can run into midges in Ireland too. It is much rarer than in Scotland (why, I don't know). But it can happen. Can't think of anything in particular at the moment.

Michele




 



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Anchoress,

I have only encountered midges a couple of times in all my visits to Ireland. I suppose it depends on which month you are there. Since I generally travel in spring and fall perhaps I avoid the heaviest midge season. They certainly are blood-thirsty little critters.

Michele

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They are here all year round, but worst in June to August.

And it is lack of wind that gives them free reign.

We have lived mostly high up and still they swarm all day long, unless there is enough breeze to waft them away.

Mayo is renowned for them; we rented there and the kitchen drawer was full of Autan ( think that is it?Insect repellant) Which worked not.

I mean what do you expect from a country that is one huuuuuuuge bog! biggrin

On bad days even the cats will not go out and the sheep go crazy.

We are high up now but with tree shelter so it will be bad up here.

Even on a mountain at Glencolumcille we had to use screening.

Michele Erdvig wrote:


Anchoress,

I have only encountered midges a couple of times in all my visits to Ireland. I suppose it depends on which month you are there. Since I generally travel in spring and fall perhaps I avoid the heaviest midge season. They certainly are blood-thirsty little critters.

Michele




 



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Wow! Well, I am sure we won't be too bad in June, but if we move there, I'll come prepared (not sure how!) :)

Midges never bothered me in Scotland, though they bit my husband up terribly. Perhaps they dislike my taste :D

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So, now we are re-visiting this plan, and it's still on, minus the language class.

It's down to two weeks in late June. We haven't decided yet which itinerary we will do (there are three of us).

My preference is to do a Belfast-to-Shannon run around the coast, with the first night in Cushendall, 4 nights in Donegal, 3 nights in Sligo, 4 nights in Galway, a night or two on Inis Mor, and then down to Shannon area to fly back.

The other option is to fly into Shannon, first night in Ennis, then a night on Inis Mor, 3 in Galway, 3 in Sligo, 4 in Donegal, 2 in the Boyne Valley (to explore the Newgrange area etc.), a couple nights on the way back to Shannon, perhaps in Athlone, and then back home from Shannon.

I've been to the Newgrange area twice, buy one companion has never been to Ireland and the other came with me in 2006, when we did Ennis, Killarney, Kilkenny and Dublin.

Of the items Michele suggested, these are the ones I definitely want to see! The others, if we can get to them, are bonuses.

Giant's Causeway
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (although I did not cross it!)
Dunluce Castle
Carrowmore
Carrowkeel
Creevykeel Court Cairn
Knocknarea (Maeve's cairn)
Achill Island
Westport
Ceide Fields
Museum of Country Life (nr. Castlebar)
Croagh Patrick
Fabulous coastline and beaches
Glenveagh Castle & Park
Grianan of Aileach
Inishowen Peninsula
Galway City
Connemara
Great coast and mountains
Kylemore Abbey
Cong & Quiet Man country (although officially in Mayo)
Various off-shore islands including Aran Islands


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Christy,

Glad to hear your plans are now on the front burner. Either plan looks good although the first avoids a cross-country drive. I suppose which one you do will  be determined by where you fly into. Have you been checking on airfares yet?

Some car rental companies have a large drop-off charge when renting in No. Ireland and dropping in the Republic (and vice versa). Do check into that.

Tourism in Ireland is down about 30% according to my sources around the country. I'm sure that the official tourist boards put a positive spin on the numbers and make it a more optimistic number. wink Everyone is missing American tourists and the recession is making it easier to "wing it". Although with three of you it would probaly be best to make definite plans.

I couldn't cross the rope bridge either. It made me dizzy just looking at it.

Michele

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Hi Christy-
You are going to love the north west.
We self catered for a week in Leitrim June 09.We saw a lot on your list,and could add more but there is only so much time(and there always is next trip).

The one place that I loved was Slieve League,I could not believe the views.

I liked the Janus figure on Boa island,Husband and son were not impressed.

I love  Maeve "the Pirate Queen"and wanted to see Knocknarea,we went to the car park and realized how steep the climb was and passed.  

My husband and I really liked  Carrowmore, 16 year old son not so much.

Susan

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Actually, our itinerary and flight plans will depend on if I can convince my traveling companions that the Belfast-to-Shannon route is the smarter one. One has never been to Ireland, and she's skittish about flying into Belfast, despite my assurances. I like that one better as there is less backtracking, more chance to see the Giant's Causeway, and more time in each spot.

If I can convince Carla that all is going to be fine, we'll do that one. Then we'll determine flights. She's probably flying separate from us anyhow, as she uses her American Airline miles when she can, and is flying from Miami. I'm flying from West Virginia, and my friend Kim is coming from San Franscisco. All over the country we are scattered!

I'll watch for the drop off charges. Do you know of any offhand that do not charge them? We will probably want an intermediate sized manual transmission car - and I have a World Mastercard. CDW shouldn't be a problem.

Slieve Leauge is definitely on the list! I like the Pirate Queen stories, as well, and look forward to visiting Achill Island. We love abbeys, cathedrals, castles, old graveyards, neolithic/pagan sites, and charming villages. And impressive cliffs!

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Christy,

I was in Belfast in the spring. No problems whatsoever. Belfast International Airport is out in the countryside anyway. The city airport is on the edge of Belfast in the burbs. Flying into either one is fine. Please reassure your friend of that.

Take a look at Dan Dooley. I had some clients go into Belfast and return in Shannon. At that time they had no drop off charge.

Michele

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I know that, and YOU know that, but convincing a nervous friend of that is another thing. But I have some time to work on it.

Thanks! I'll look into Dooley. I am considering springing for an automatic, as well, but Kim will be doing most of the driving (she gets carsick if she doesn't), so it's really up to her.

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I think I've convinced her. However, she would rather fly into Shannon and out of Belfast - I can't think of any reason to do it the other way around, so here is our new tentative schedule. There are several things we wanted to revisit, or for Carla, visit for the first time, so it is a truly 'west' Ireland trip, not just Northwest.

Fly into Shannon on 6/19
6/19-Kenmare
6/20-Kenmare
6/21-Kenmare
6/22-Ennis
6/23-Inis Mor
6/24-Inis Mor
6/25-Galway
6/26-Galway
6/27-Galway
6/28-Westport
6/29-Westport
6/30-Donegal
7/1-Donegal
7/2-Donegal
7/3-Donegal
7/4-Cushendall
7/5-Fly out of Belfast

I checked out Dan Dooley - and when I put in Shannon to Shannon, the quote was $200 less than when I put in Shannon to Belfast, or vice versa. Definitely a difference! :( However, I will keep checking there and other places. Thanks!

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Christy,

What is your departure point for the Aran Islands? Will you take the ferry or fly?

Michele


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We will likely take the ferry, as neither of my traveling companions want to get on the little planes :) They get seasick, too, but can handle the ferry. We will probably leave from Doolin. Is it easy to go Doolin to Inis Mor, and then Inis Mor to Galway, or is that a mess? It would make it easier overall, but I think it was different companies doing the ferries from different ports, yes?

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Christy,

I think that the logistics might be better if you take the ferry from Galway or Rosaveal rather than Doolin. The Doolin ferries are very weather dependent. Then can be canceled at the last moment. So consider Galway in place of Ennis.

Michele

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We took the Doolin ferry the last time, and it was fine, but I understand that can change if the weather is rough. We will be staying in Kenmare one night, then doing Dingle Peninsula, and then settling someplace for the night before heading over on the ferry the next morning to Inis Mor. I thought Doolin might be a decent place for that, but I suppose we could go all the way to Galway that first day - long day, though! Or we could overnight in Doolin, and then go up to the Galway ferry and take the 1pm ferry over, I suppose. That would give us a chance to drive along the coast a bit, check out the Cliffs of Moher, etc.

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I think we'll do this:

3 nights Kenmare
1 night Ennis/Doolin
2 nights Inis Mor (ferry from Rossaveal)
3 nights Galway
2 nights Westport
4 nights Donegal
1 night Cushendall

I think that will work :) I forgot that this is not a car ferry, so we need to return to where our car was!

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Christy,

Yes, you do need to return to where you left your car! Important point. It sounds like you have things under conrol.

Michele

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Christy --

A couple of points of clarification, please ...

You mention that you will be departing from West Virginia - did you relocate from Gator-ville??

No matter if it is at the Begining or End of the trip, Kenmare is definitively, the 'Odd Man Out'.  While I certainly understand the interest/attraction, it's a good, 5-6 hour trip to/from SNN AND it is rather isolated from the Rest of your trip.  Have you cconsidered an alternate location -- say, Killorglin??

I think you will find flying into Belfast and out of Shannon to be cheaper due to the higher Departure Tax in the UK -- at least, that is what I found, the few times that I tried to price out tickets utilizing Belfast /Glasgow/ and/or Edinborough.

Bob

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Yes, I got a new job in West Virginia, and moved about a month ago - big change for me, as I'd never moved out of Florida since I moved in at age 8!

I chose Kenmare for several reasons. It's Michele's favorite town in that area, I've only been through for lunch once, and was enchanted, and it's handy to Cork/ring of Beara/ring of Kerry. Convince me why Killorglin would be better? :)

I am actually thinking now of shifting the whole thing a little - take a day or two off Galway, and continue down the northeast coast the last couple days, stay in Newgrange area, and fly out of Dublin (or into Dublin, as the case may be). It will not only save me a few hundred dollars on drop of charges for the car, but will also allow me to compare prices for more auto rental companies. Many won't do the one-way thing between UK and Ireland.

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Christy,

If you use Dublin I think I would fly in and then get out as soon as possible. It is much easier leaving from Shannon than Dublin. Dublin Airport is a construction zone.

Have you thought of taking a night from Donegal to add to No. Ireland? You only have one night there. Although you can hit the highlights of the Antrim coast on one long driving day you will miss out on some things. It is a very beautiful drive.

As for me, it is no contest between Kenmare and Kilorglin. I just love Kenmare and the people there.

Hey, I lived in Florida for 28 years. It was a relief to move to a place that has real seasons.

Michele



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Oh, yes, we plan on not going into the city at ALL, just fly in, and head straight north from there. Stay in Newgrange area, probably at Roughgrange Farms... we'll see. And we may add a night on the Antrim coast as well, it's under discussion. If we do, it will be a night from Galway and a night from Donegal to add a night in Cushendall and one in Newgrange. I don't like having too many one-nighters, especially in a row. I like to explore at least a little bit!


I'm waiting (oh, so patiently) for one friend to finally send me her list of 'wants and needs' for this trip, so I can gel the plans a little better. She's been recovering from a hip injury, so can't sit at the computer long for researching places.

Yes, it's been fantastic (especially as I'm a photographer) to see the colors change up here.

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Given a choice between Michele's advice and mine, it's a 'no-brainer' to go with Michele ... biggrin biggrin biggrin

Let it be acknowledged that I LOVE the SW.  I am, after all, the one who spent a whole week nestled down on the Sheep's Head.  My option of dropping Kenmare has more to do with logistics.  While Kenmare DOES offer better access to Beara and West Cork, it's pretty far from Shannon and Galway -- particularly in light of the fact that there is NO Direct Route -- Pretty much all roads north force you through Killarney.

Depending upon WHEN in June you go, Killarney hosts the week-long, Fleahd Cheoil Chiarrai    http://www.discoverireland.ie/Search-Results/Details.aspx?touristItemID=10754

Music and dance groups flock into Killarney from all over during the Festival.  Last June, part of High Street was blocked off by a mobile stage with street performers and all the venues were PACKED with musicians, every night.

Given the choice of driving home -- IN THE DARK -- between Killarney and Kenmare ("Over the mountain and through the woods"), and Killorglin (along a semi-main highway - such as it is ... biggrin), Kilorglin would be MUCH easier, stress-wise.

We spent a week self-catering in Kilorglin in June of '05.  It's a nice place in its own right, with my two favorite food places - Benz Cafe and Dev's On The Square -- good music venues -- the Bridge Bar comes to mind -- and nice, friendly people. 

While Kenmare doubtless has even more, it's rather inconveniently FAR from the rest of your trip.  Kilorglin is an EASY day-trip to Dingle; it actually sits ON the ROK route (If you started about 9 AM, you would actually be about 1 1/2 hours AHEAD of the Tour Buses); it is seriously close to the Gap of Dunloe;  and it is WAY closer to SNN or Doolin.

Ultimately, what you decide to include or exclude will depend upon what you and your travel partners deem as most worthy of your time.

I'm just trying to confuse the issue with options ... biggrin biggrin biggrin biggrin

Bob

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Ah, but how close is it to Beara and Cork? We are actually going to drive around Dingle on our way north, so not a day trip returning to Kenmare... though I might be convinced :P

You do seem to be good at confusing with options! We are arriving in Ireland on the 19th, so depending on whether we are flying into Dublin or Shannon, and going counter-clockwise or clockwise, we may or may not be in the area for the festival... thanks for noting it, I would be interested in attending!

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OK, 

Now I am the one that's confused ... biggrin confuse biggrin

When did Cork drop into the mix?????  confuse

As to Beara, I could envision a LONG day-trip that runs something like this:

Depart Kilorglin approx 8 AM (the sun will have been up since about 4:30) and drive the ROK counter-clockwise, arriving in the vicinity of Sneem around 2PM-ish (with stops).  Enjoy a late lunch at :  http://www.strawberryfield-ireland.com/  

You KNOW that you want to ... biggrin biggrin

After your Pancakes, you drive through Kenmare to Lauragh, North-to-South through Healy Pass to Adrigoleand then on, to Glengariff.  Then you drive up, through the Caha Pass Stone Tunnels, and return to Kenmare.

Google Maps says:

Driving directions to Killorglin, County Kerry, Ireland
153 mi about 4 hours 9 mins
Via Unknown road - remove
iw_minus.gifiw_plus.gifSuggested routes


icon_greenA.png
Killorglin, County Kerry, Ireland
1.Head northwest on Knocklyne
499 ft
2.Turn left to stay on Knocklyne
285 ft
3.Turn left toward Sunhill
282 ft
4.Turn left at Sunhill
0.2 mi
5.Continue onto School St
0.2 mi
6.At the traffic circle, take the 2nd exit onto Iveragh Rd/N70
Continue to follow N70
23.6 mi
7.Turn right to stay on N70
11.6 mi
35.7 mi about 52 mins
icon_greenB.png
Waterville, Co. Kerry
Ireland
8.Head south on Main St/N70 toward Lower Main St
Continue to follow N70
21.4 mi
9.Turn right at Church Rd
446 ft
21.4 mi about 30 mins
icon_greenC.png
Sneem, Co. Kerry
Ireland
10.Head northeast on Church Rd toward N70/S Square
446 ft
11.Turn right at N70
8.5 mi
12.Turn right at Dromore Cottages/N70
Continue to follow N70
7.4 mi
13.Turn right at Killarney Rd/N71
Continue to follow N71
0.6 mi
14.Turn right at N71/Shelbourne St
0.1 mi
15.Turn left at Bell Heights/N71
Continue to follow N71
0.6 mi
16.Take the 3rd right onto R571
13.9 mi
17.Turn left at R574
1.0 mi
32.2 mi about 49 mins
icon_greenD.png
R574
18.Head south on R574 toward R572
6.9 mi
19.Turn left at R572
11.0 mi
20.Continue onto N71
305 ft
17.9 mi about 27 mins
icon_greenE.png
Glengariff
Co. Cork, Ireland
21.Head west on N71 toward R572
17.0 mi
22.Turn left at N71/The Square
Continue to follow N71
6.1 mi
23.Turn left at R568
0.6 mi
24.Take the 1st right
1.5 mi
25.Turn right
4.4 mi
26.Turn left toward N72
8.2 mi
27.Turn left at N72
7.2 mi
28.At the traffic circle, take the 1st exit onto Lower Bridge St/N70
0.1 mi
29.Turn right to stay on Lower Bridge St/N70
0.1 mi
30.Take the 1st left onto Mill Rd/N70
0.1 mi
31.At the traffic circle, take the 2nd exit onto School St
0.2 mi
32.Continue onto Sunhill
0.1 mi
33.Continue straight to stay on Sunhill
344 ft
34.Turn right toward Knocklyne
282 ft
35.Take the 1st right onto Knocklyne
285 ft
36.Take the 1st right to stay on Knocklyne
499 ft
46.0 mi about 1 hour 29 mins

This routing also includes a slight 'Detour' -- that routes you through the Black Valley (AKA, The Gap of Dunloe), exiting at Kate Kierney's Cottage.  We did this last summer, begining about 6:30 or 7 PM and got NO grief, whatsoever from the jarveys, as they were pretty much DONE, for the day.

Now, you and I both know that even a Ralley Driver couldn't cover this route in the Preposterously Stated, "4 hours and 9 minutes".  I'm thinking it will be more like 10-12 hours, WITH stops, but if the weather is good, I would certainly consider it do-able.

Wouldn't want to keep that kind of pace day to day, but ONE day out of three would certainly not be TOO excessive, would it?????

Bob


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I think I would much rather have the ROK and Beara on two different trips. We are staying three nights, so why not? ROK and the Gap of Dunloe I would like to relax on this time. Last time, we got caught behind 2000 bicyclers on a charity run - going the same way we were around the ring, and never staying in single file, always out into the road. It was very frustrating and nerve wracking! (they started in Killorglin I think!)

Cork is a late addition - Carla wants to go to Cork and Blarney, so I suppose we could combine the day to Beara Peninsula with a trip to Blarney (SO not interested in that myself, but the trip is for all of us!) at least, and if we have time, perhaps dinner in Cork.

And yes, we've been to Strawberry Fields, and will DEFINITELY be returning for the wonderful, yummy crepey pancakes and tea!

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