A friend suggested that I run my 2-week itinerary by the generous readers here for suggestions and insights. I am traveling with my mom to Ireland this May. The reason for the trip is to conduct some business in Galway; after that, though, we begin the trip in earnest. My workplace will pay for three nights and four days of expenses, with my mom and me covering the rest (and budget is a HUGE issue). We plan to rent a car in Galway for 7 days (I've put these in bold) and drop it at the Dublin airport. Here's what I have:
Tuesday: arrive Dublin, train to Galway (mom gets senior ride free, work pays for me) Wednesday: Galway business Thursday: Galway business Friday: day trip to Aran Islands Saturday: early car rental, meander up the West Coast (Croagh Patrick, etc.), stay overnight in Rossnowlagh Sunday-Tuesday drive up to and stay 3 nights in Dunfanaghy as base in Donegal
I'm pretty secure with plans so far, but from here my mom and I have a conundrum: I want to explore the Antrim Coast, Belfast, and Newgrange (my mom is less keen on Belfast, but hey, I'm the driver!). To get these three locales in with the week-long car rental, we then need to do a series of one-night stays:
Wednesday: Portrush Thursday: Belfast Friday: Trim
There are two issues: one, Trim is more expensive than Belfast. Two, and much more important, I'm worried that we may be trying to do too much. My mom is a pretty healthy 66-year-old, but she does have her limits. So, do we do all three places and explorations (and pay $100 more total), or do we take a more leisurely pace and absorb the Irish ambience more, skipping Newgrange? I sincerely have no idea how taxing all of this driving will be on either of us (I'm a very active 39-year-old woman, if it matters at all).
We then finish the trip in Dublin:
Saturday: Dublin Sunday: Dublin Monday: Fly home
I would greatly appreciate any help on the question of Antrim-Belfast or Antrim-Belfast-Trim; we would spend the extra night in Portrush with the former plan. (And should I even consider for a moment skipping Belfast or attempting a 2-3 hour driveby??)
But any suggestions about what to see, where to stay, and how to save a buck on any leg of this journey would also be warmly welcomed and greatly appreciated! I've been using RickSteves' Ireland 2009 and Eyewitness Travel Ireland for recommendations for B&Bs, if you care to know that.
Welcome to my forum. How nice that part of your trip is paid for. What time of year are you going? That will determine the length of days.
While you are doing business in Galway your mother can take some day tours. Perhaps Connemara and the Cliffs of Moher. Your hotel or the tourist office in Galway can set her up with them. Or if she prefers, there is a hop-on hop-off bus tour of Galway and cruises.
When departing Galway for Rossnowlagh you say "meander up the coast". That's an awful lot of coast between the two. Did you have an idea of your route?
Have you thought of stealing a day from Dunfanaghy and adding it to the Antrim coast? Overnighting in Portrush, you will have hardly tasted the Antrim coast yet. The rest of the drive goes all along the coast down to Belfast. Making many stops along the way could take most of the day to arrive in Belfast.
Did you know that drive time from Belfast to Dublin is about 2 hours? Would it be possible to use part of that day seeing Newgrange and then proceed to Dublin for your next-to-last night?
Those are two suggestions that might make the trip better.
Thank you for your response! The dates in Ireland are May 18-31
Good question about the meandering up the coast--we may need to rethink where we overnight. I was looking at driving up N-59 to catch Clifden and Dan O'Hara's Organic Homestead, Croagh Patrick, and the Coffin Ship (my mom also wants to stop in Cong). It looks like we'd then take the N-5 towards Rossnowlagh. Is that too much for one day? I'm treating Rossnowlagh as a sleepover place on the way to Dunfanaghy, but we may need to stay someplace closer.
And getting to Dublin is a bit vexed for me--we're coming full circle from that meandering, which I had planned to start very early in the morning from Galway. That means dropping the car very early at the Dublin airport. Looked at that way, an overnight in Trim seems more attractive!
But really, the main reason we are heading north and not south is I said "Giants Causeway!" and my mom looked it up and said "Absolutely!," so it's breaking my heart to spend only a night in Portrush/Antrim (particularly since we must get a trip to Bushmills in, too).
Would this schedule work better? Saturday: early car rental, meander up the West Coast (Croagh Patrick, etc.), stay overnight in ?Rossnowlagh? Sunday-Monday drive up to and stay 2 nights in Dunfanaghy as base in Donegal Tuesday Portrush Wednesday: Portrush Thursday: Belfast Friday: Trim
It's all so horribly compressed, and my native tendency is to sit in pubs/cafés and soak up ambience, so I'm not the kind of person who typically tries to script every minute and pack in every possible site. I like to just BE--but somewhere else. At the same time, though, for budget reasons and just a sense of direction, I need a basic itinerary. My mom has foisted all planning on my shoulders, because she'll be happy regardless. Arrrgh! Balance, balance, balance.
In May you will have pretty long days so that is a plus. Usually Connemara takes a good portion of the day to drive. Also, consider that you are stopping to see things. That takes time too. It's not like you are just driving past them.
You might want to consider going north to Cong first. Then a slight zig zag would take you to Clifden. Sky Drive is dramatic. I'm sure you will want at least a photo stop at Kylemore Abbey:
My post got cut off. Let's continue with your itinerary.
Although I usually recommend staying a couple of nights in one location, on the Antrim coast it does not make sense because of backtracking. You might be better off with a night in Portrush and another farther along the coast. Some places to consider:
Thank you for all of this help, Michele. You're right, Drogheda is closer. I'd chosen Trim because it was cheaper (budget vigilance that I hope will pay off), but it turns out the Boyne Valley Best Western in Drogheda has a nice senior rate for my mom. Glad I checked, thanks to your prompting, though I really do prefer the mom & pop operations.
So. You're suggesting a drive TO Portrush from Dunfanaghy to overnight, then enjoying the Giant's Causeway and Bushmills for the day, and then driving on to Glenarm or Cushendall--presumably to spend the day in Belfast, overnight there, and move on to Drogheda? And I'm guessing the Torr Road leads to Torr Head?
The new-and-Michele-improved schedule would thus be: Saturday: early car rental, meander up the West Coast (Croagh Patrick, etc.), stay overnight in Sligo Sunday-Monday drive up to and stay 2 nights in Dunfanaghy as base in Donegal Tuesday Portrush Wednesday: Glenarm/Cushendall Thursday: Belfast Friday: Drogheda
Thanks for throwing in tips on what to see and do, too--your Kylemore Abbey photo is magnificent. I'm very where-to-stay obsessed right now. It seems like one can't help but find beauty in Ireland, but of course some places are more beautiful than others.
The D Hotel in Drogheda is also running some good specials. You might check on that.
You could drive from Dunfanaghy to Portrush and see some of the beautiful beaches along the way, Mussenden Estate and Dunluce Castle. The next day you could do Giant's Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, the coast road and Torr Road (& Torr Head) ending the day with an overnight stay in Cushendall or Glenarm. You would then drive to Belfast for your day's sightseeing and spend the night there. Then south for Newgrange and an overnight in Drogheda.
Click on those hyperlinks for Cushendall & Glenarm in my previous message for some places to stay.