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Post Info TOPIC: September trip to western Ireland


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September trip to western Ireland


Hello all.  I am a lurker turned into joiner, and now a poster.  My mother (84) and I (56) had a wonderful trip to Ireland in September/October 2009, spending two weeks starting in Dublin, driving up to Belfast, over to Derry via the Glens of Antrim and the Causeway, then down to Ballaghadereen (where friend's sister has a pub) and on to Cliffs of Mohr, down to Dingle and then back to Dublin airport.  That is a very condensed version of the trip, but we saw tons and didn't really end up feeling rushed.  I did all the driving with a manual car and a GPS to assist with navigation.  I visited this site while planning before, but never posted.  A belated thanks for the help you provided in 2009. smile  (wanted to clap, but couldn't figure out how to select that emoticon!)

We are now planning a return trip for late September, but this time the addition of 3 cousins, each from a different generation (my mother's, mine, and the young adult daughter of my mother's cousin).  It started out as a trip to County Leitrim to check out family origins in the northern reaches, but while everyone wants to stop there, it doesn't seem to be where we want to linger.  Three of us are arriving the morning of September 20 and the other two the afternoon of September 22.  I think the three of us will drive to Wicklowe and visit Powerscourt and Glendalough valley, staying Friday and Saturday night in the area and driving back to Dublin Airport to pick up the other two on Sunday afternoon.

The areas on my list are Galway, Clifden, the N59 Galway Route that Tony2Phones has kindly shared, Ballaghadereen for a night, Donnegal (Adara and Slieve League Cliffs), Leitrim, and then to the airport for departure. (one to the US, two to London, and my mother and I to Scotland for a brief 5 day soujourn).  My mother is mobile, although major stairs and long distances are not for her.  We're not hikers.

Here is what I am thinking of:

Sunday, 9/22 - Pick up the stragglers at Dublin Airport around 3 pm and drive to Galway, staying there Sunday night.

Monday - Explore Galway, then drive to Clifden for the night.

Tuesday - Drive to various points in Connemara, using Tony2Phones route as a guide, return to Clifden for the night.

Would like to see (in no particular order) Sky Road, Ashford Castle, Doolough Valley, Museum of Country Life, Croagh Patrick, Kylemore Abbey & Victorian Gardens, possible sheep dog ranch?

Wednesday - Drive to Ballaghadereen for the night, spending the bulk of the day in Connemara or Mayo.

Thursday - Drive to Adara in County Donnegal  (make a jog west to Céide Fields Neolithic Site? or Sligo town and Beleek on the way up)

Friday - Explore southern Donnegal (Slieve League), returning to Adara for the night

Saturday - Drive to Leitrim, spend the night

Sunday 9/29 - Explore Leitrim, leave at end of day to drive to hotel near Dublin Airport by evening

Originally I wanted to go to Leitrim first, but then I realized it would put us in Galway during the International Oyster Festival.  While oysters would be nice, it doesn't look like our kind of event.  We will be in Clifden during the Arts Festival, will it be hard/expensive to get lodging there during that time?  I'm open to suggestions for an alternative base camp.  We would like to hear some music, but we're not particularly knowledgeable, so we have no "must hears" on our list.  Between Galway, Clifden, and Adara, however, I hoped we would be able to get some tradional music sessions in.

Any comments, warnings, must sees on the above itininerary?  I am the planner.  They all tell me they will be happy with whatever I come up with!  Here is a link to my google map.  http://goo.gl/maps/37j3z  I have a lot marked off as potentially interesting, so will have to choose. 

Thanks for your time and consideration.  Ruth



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Monday and Tuesday in Clifden will be quiet enough, its the weekends that can be hectic.  Try Dun Ri just on the cusp of town http://www.dunri.ie/ (might be there ourselves) this map also has a few pins including a couple of Sheep/dog spots http://goo.gl/maps/L5ihu  If you are aiming for the Ciede Fields have a look at some more of the north Mayo coast like Downpatrick Head?  



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Thanks for the recommendation for a place to stay. I already had your map and the associated descriptions on this site bookmarked. It's where a lot of my ideas came from! (including the sheep dogs) Downpatrick Head looks easy enough to include with a trip to Ciede Fields. Anything else in particular in that area we should look out for?

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Ruth,

Welcome to the world of posting. It's nice to hear you are returning to Ireland again. It sounds like your trip is well in hand with Tony's advice and your own outline. Since you will be in Clifden during a festival you should make reservations soon, especially since you will need a couple of rooms. I have suggestions for lodgings on my Lodgings page and in my book.

When you are in Cong don't forget to take stroll through the abbey and into the woods

Michele 



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As Michele has said booking early rather than late makes sense Dun Ri is booked the Monday night if you need 2 rooms. The Al**** & Brown Hotel at the top of town might be a good option.(lots of accommodation is out of town and not walking friendly after a night out). Ben View and Kingstone House are traditional B&B's on the bottom (eastern) Road in town. Quay House down the Harbour Rd (western) is a high end "boutique" option.

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Clifden is a nice place to stay - I've been there with my fiance last year, also for the Art Festival. As already suggested, book your hotel or B&B early, although it is my impression that there weren't so much visitors that every hotel bed in the city was in charge. Als check out http://www.trivago.ca/clifden-42400 for some ideas for hotels, but I think that Micheles lodging page has perhaps also very good entries.

Enjoy the concert of the Irish Chamber Orchestra! Really good smile



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On your way to Clifden you might stop at Brigit's Garden. www.brigitsgarden.ie/ An easy walk around.


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Slán go fóill,

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As usual, the itinerary is going through some adjustments. Unfortunately Ive been extremely busy with work and have fallen down somewhat on my trip planning responsibilities.

Ive had second thoughts about one night in Galway and two in Clifden. Since we will be arriving late afternoon/early evening on Sunday, I think it would be best to stay two nights (Sunday and Monday) in Galway. We would explore Galway on Monday and then drive through Connemara on Tuesday morning to Clifden where we would stay one night.

For evening activities in Galway, there are two possible scheduled options and also the pubs. The scheduled option for Sunday night is the Trad on the Prom at the Galway Bay Hotel in Salthill. That is only available at 9 pm, however, and that will be very late for the two that are arriving from Dallas that day, even if they do nap in the car on the way from Dublin Airport. The scheduled option for Monday night is the 5:30 pm medieval banquet at Dunguaire Castle, possibly returning to Galway for the late nighters among us to go to a pub.

Are these two shows worth it, both in terms of allocation of our time and money? Even if the Dallas participants want to try for both shows, would we be best off choosing one option? If so, is it purely a matter of personal preference (or timing), or is one more worthwhile than the other? From what I've read, the medieval banquet is more than just stock tourist fare, or am I gullible?

I thought we would prefer to stay in Galway proper, but it might be best to stay in Salthill if we decide to do Trad on the Prom. That will make pub hopping in Galway a bit more difficult. Are taxis easily (and reasonably) available if I dont want to drive from Galway back to Salthill at the end of the evening?

I had hoped to stay in Park House Hotel, but they are fully booked. Other options close to the center of town I am looking at include Forster Court, Hotel Meyrick, The House Hotel, the Skeffington Arms, and the Spanish Arch Hotel. Do any of you have any experience with these or have other recommendations for a centrally located hotel?

Also, a question on posting etiquette. Is it preferred to continue asking questions on my original thread (as I am doing here), or should I start a new post for new subtopics (e.g. one for Galway, one for Clifden, etc.)


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Continue posting here as we will have all your info in one place and can refer back if necessary.

I agree that the first two nights in Galway will be best given your changing situation.

I inspected Hotel Meyrick a few years ago when it was the Great Southern. It had just undergone a refurbishment and was nice. It is a very old hotel so rooms vary within the hotel. Some are small, others larger, some are quirky. If you book there and don't like the room ask for another.

Trad on the Prom and Dunguaire Banquet are both worth seeing. However, I think you should choose one and forget the other. I would choose Dunguaire on Monday at 5:30. The other show at 9 pm is too late for your friends on arrival.

Taxis are available. You might want to have a couple of phone numbers handy (ask your hosts at your accommodations) and call a taxi from your last pub of the night to pick you up. Ireland does not have roving taxis that you can flag down. They are either called for or you go to a taxi rank where they line up.



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Thank you, Michelle. I appreciate your advice on the shows.

After looking at my hotel options a bit more closely, I realize that Hotel Meyrick is out of our price range. Skeffington Arms is closer to the price range we are looking for. I am looking now at B&Bs and Guest houses that are near city center or on the near west side of the Corrib to see if there are some options that might be more quiet but still within walking distance to the music pubs.

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Consider staying in Kinvara rather than Galway. Nice Village which has a range of accommodation, Ten bars a selection of restaurants and very handy for The Burren, Cliffs and Dunguaire.

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That is another option and much closer to Dunguaire Castle!

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I have stayed in Kinvarra several times and found it to be a really nice village. The last time I was there I stayed at Fallon's B&B. The rooms were wonderful, the breakfast was delicious and Maura was a delightful hostess - full of great ideas.
Hope that helps


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Thanks for the suggestions, but since we haven't been to Galway we wanted to stay in the city proper. I was able to get reservations at the Prague House B&B on Father Griffin Road, west of the Corrib River. It's looks to be a short walk to many of the places we want to see.

I also have reservations for the 24th in Clifden at the Dun Ri Guesthouse. Thank you, Tony2Phones, for that recommendation.

Roughly, now expect we'll spend the day of the 24th exploring Connemara and the day of the 25th exploring Mayo, stopping to stay somewhere between Ballina and Drumcliffe. From there, drive to Ardara in Donnegal to stay one or two nights. We'll drive back down to our friend's in Ballaghadereen for either Friday or Saturday night. Not sure how much time we want to spend in Donnegal. Two days would be nice, but then we would have only one day in Leitrim for the ancestor hunting.

While I'm working on the northern portion of our trip, I'd like to ask for suggestions regarding the firs two nights of our trip. We arrive in Dublin Friday morning, the 20th and our plan is to pick up the car (van) and drive into Wicklowe where we would stay 2 nights, visit Glendalough and Powerscourt, but take it a bit easy on Friday and Saturday. Sunday afternoon we would drive back to Dublin Airport to pick up the rest of our party and head west.

What are some towns we should consider for these first two nights? And do you have suggestions for lodging?

Thank you for your help.

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Just a note about Wicklow on weekends. Because it is so close to Dublin it can get very crowded at attractions such as Powerscourt and Glendalough on Sat/Sun. If you stayed in Glendalough you could see it after hours, which is what the locals do to enjoy the serenity rather than tourist rush-hour.

In Glendalough take a look at Heather House, Riversdale & Pinewood Lodge.



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"Ireland Expert"  Michele Erdvig

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The failure to follow Pete McCarthy's 1st rule of travel means that this year we will not be staying @ Dun Ri, which for some reason has become very popular?

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We stayed at Prague House in Galway a few years ago. The location is really great, because everything is just a walk away. It's about 10 minutes to downtown and less than that to get to the promenade in Salthill. It has a parking area, but the parking is tight (as is common). Once you get in there, I suggest leaving the car parked if you can (or use street parking).

I can't speak for the owner of the property, as she was called away suddenly, and a very lovely woman (who is a friend of the owner) was our host for our two nights. Our room overlooked Father Griffin Road, so I suppose it was a little noisier than some other rooms, but it was very nice and comfortable.

Enjoy your trip!

Kate

******************

Engaging Ireland

www.engagingireland.com



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Ruth,

Tony has been recommending Dun Ri in Clifden to everyone. Now it seems it is all booked up and Tony is left out in the cold.

I'm not sure if you are overnighting in the Leitrim/Dromahair/Sligo area but if you are contact your B&B host. Sometimes they know someone who knows someone else, etc. Maybe contact the local post office? You could also contact the tourism offices nearby:

http://www.leitrimtourism.com/

http://www.sligotourism.ie/


Michele



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Thank you Kate, it's good to hear you had a good experience with the Prague House.

Tony, while I confess I had to google to get who/what Pete McCarthy's rules of travel are, I remained perplexed even after I found out. "1. On arrival, buy a local paper and go for a drink." Anyway, sorry we won't be seeing you at Dun Ri.

I thank you all for all your help. I'll post our updated itinerary later this week, but in the meantime I've been puzzling over something that I suddenly realized I should ask this forum.

We have a genealogist's report that gives us a fair amount of detail about the townlands in the north part of County Leitrim (near Dromahair) that our ancestor, James Kelly and his in-laws, came from. We plan to visit and explore there on Saturday, September 28. We would like to engage the services of a local guide who knows the area and who could guide us to the townlands based on the maps we have from the genealogist. We could probably find it on our own, but we thought a local could get us there much easier and quicker, giving us more time to explore other things. I haven't had any luck, however, finding someone. I contacted the Leitrim County Genealogical Center and they only had one suggestion of a regular travel guide based in Carrick-on-Shannon and he has yet to respond to my inquiry.

Does anyone have any suggestions of a better way to locate someone? I've thought of contacting the parish priest to see if he can suggest someone.

Thanks, Ruth

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I never was any good at rules?? Clifden will be for the last weekend, have decide to go to Southport for pops birthday rather than have them over here.

Try J Conneely's for music, Manions for lunch and Lowry's for a good old Irish pub and wide choice of Whiskey. Avoid Micheles unless you want an I ate here and lived foodie badge. Off the Square is a better high food option.

Pick up a copy of McCarthys Bar, good light reading and a decent non travel guide, travel guide.

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Do you mean Mitchell's in Clifden? Did you have a bad meal there? I've always had good dinners there. Perhaps it has done downhill? It has been a few years since I was there.

I second McCarthy's Bar. Great read and in places laugh out loud funny.



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Ruth,

 

Give me until next Wednesday..I will check with some of my Genealogy friends in country and see if one of them is up for the "guide".

I know two or three that I keep busy during season. This year, with the Gathering, I have kept them well busy.

 

That is another avenue, irelandxo.com. We are a reverse genealogy site. You would sign up...it's free... select your county...and if you know it...your parish... post messages on the appropriate boards and usually within a few days, you get an answer from someone who can help you find who or what you need

Slan Beo,

 

Bit



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That's the place. "Mitchelles" waiters with an attitude problem, prices to burn the tourist $ and food I wouldn't give the dog. but heck what do I know the place gets great reviews from "Foodies" confuse Personally I would use the chipper straight facing at least the fish is fresh (not frozen) and locally caught.

About 4 years ago it eventually went into the same little black book of places I will never eat again, with Morans on the Weir Clarinbridge disbelief and the Imperial in Southport doh only 3 places in the book so I must be willing to eat just about anywhere..oh except any Whetherspoons in the UK and Mc'Donalds worldwide.wink



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I agree that Moran's is pretentious and vastly overpriced. I think it was sold recently but kept in the same family.

I will have to take a look at Mitchell's again next time. The waiters were toffee-nosed but the service was excellent. The food I ate was very good and it was the early bird so the prices were okay.

That little black book must be really little.



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Moran's went Bankrupt owing around E20million and sold the business for less than the asking price of the 1 acre plot with a broken down bungalow just up the road..as you say to family.. They promised to pay the bank just over E1million on completion of the sale but failed to fulfil that promise.

Mitchelles.. You used to be able to get early bird meals at early bird prices, and the menu outside states early bird menu available. last time I asked about this I was told rather abruptly that the prices on the main menu board outside were the only prices available..the lunch menu is cheaper priced but the food is definitely not the standard I expect when paying twice the price of a good home cooked field/sea to table pub grub offering at Mannions a few doors down.

Macaroni's in the Foyles Hotel is supposed to be a good place to eat and have been informed does the best seafood chowder in town so will have Chris try that next time we are across there, The hotel nearly made the book so I wouldn't recommend staying there but wouldn't say definitively don't.


Qualification for my little book of horrors is very strict and takes a lot of earning because theoretically there are only 10 pages and I can't write very small..

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Thanks all for the restaurant advice.

Bit, I will be interested if you turn up anyone among your genealogy friends. In the meantime I did register for Irelandxo.com and have posted a message in Killarga and Killanummery parishes. Thanks for the suggestion.

Way too much to do to get ready, although for the most part, the basics are taken care of.

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Ruth,

 

I have put out the word and am awaiting answers. I just want to verify that you are looking at September 28th

for the need of a local guide?

 



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Yes, that would be the date.  We will be driving down from Ardara in Co. Donegal Saturday morning, September 28, with the aim to get an early start so we reach northern Leitrim in the morning.  I may have a lead on someone who might be willing to do a bit of guiding, but it's too early to tell.  I'm not ready to hone in on only one option right now, because I'm afraid what ever it is might fall through.

Thank you.



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Ruth,

 

Still no answer back from either of the two whom I would consider up to the task. I know one was in hospital over the weekend so that may be why I hadn't heard.

I posted out on the XO message board, as well, hoping to get a local in the area to respond.



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Through XO, I did get passed along to a woman in Leitrim who said she thought she might be able to line up someone local to help.  I haven't heard back from her yet, but am keeping my fingers crossed.  Thanks for your help.

I am in full, got-way-to-much-to-do-and-to-little-time-to-do-it mode right now with work and neighborhood responsibilities.  Will be glad when I am on the plane!



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