Hello all! Thanks to Melissa5 on Fodors, I've found this delightful place! I just posted my last trip journal over in the trip reports from April 2002. I visited once for a couple of days in August 1996 as well, but I'm going for longer this June.
Me and 2 girlfriends (it was originally 8 girlfriends!) are going over late June/early July. We are planning on doing a week in the southwest (probably Killarney), 4 days in Kilkenny, then 4 days in Dublin. I'm the only one that's been there before, and the only one that's travelled outside the US before.
Since I've been to Ireland before (and twice to the UK), and LOVE researching travel, I thought I'd try my hand at doing all the arrangements. I did so on my hubbie's and mine honeymoon to England last year, and did great there
We are looking to fly into Shannon and out of Dublin, if possible. If not, then in and out of Shannon. We are all flying from different places: Orlando, Miami, and San Francisco. I'm hoping to find a way to have us all meet at a hub and make the trans-Atlantic flight together. Any ideas? Oh, and while I'm not on a super-tight budget, the other girls are. We're budgeting about $2000-2500 each for this trip.
Once there, we will rent a car, and go down to Killarney. I've been through Kenmare and Tralee before in April, and am looking for a place large enough to have a traditional music scene in the evenings. Do you think Kenmare or Kinsale would be better than Killarney? Remember, this is going to be the other girls' (they are 35-40 and single) first exposure to non-US amenities, etc. I want their first impressions of Ireland to be memorable and delightful as mine were! I want to be able to rent a place that is close enough to pubs that we can walk, as we don't want to drive on dark Ireland streets while drunk! Suggestions for places to stay are welcome!
We plan on doing some of the rings while we are there, Killarney park, Muckross, Kate Kearney's, and some other things. My previous trip we did the Ring of Kerry, and too quickly. I mean to stop more this time!
In Kilkenny, we will do day trips to Jerpoint, Cashel, etc., and again mean to stay in town. Suggestions for B&Bs and other activities are welcome!
Then, the last four days will be in Dublin, preferably in city center. However, I realize that most B&Bs aren't in the center, so we will settle for a nice suburb. I remember Dun Loughaire being a nice, seaside town, is it still so? Other recommendations? We will visit Glendalough and Powerscourt on the way to Dublin, and do daytrips up to Newgrange and Tara from there.
We love traditional music, dancing, pubs, history, ruins, picturesque views, and lovely ginger lads All comments appreciated!
-- Edited by Green Dragon at 11:19, 2006-01-26
__________________
May the light be your guide and the darkness be your comfort!
Greendragon, you gave me a laugh, I assumed you were a young man, going to Ireland with 8 girlfriends... I just wasn't sure if you could handle that many, women can get pretty feisty in Ireland I hear.
Fodors has great info on Ireland too, but I love it here at IrelandYes.com. You have to be more patient as the replies will be fewer, but they will be of the highest quality. Read the trip reports section, some great well-planned trips, and some of them are very funny and entertaining!
Plus we will never accuse you of being a obsessive-compulsive planner (since I have already won that prize.)
You NEED Michelle's excellent Best Little Guide to Ireland. I have the 2005 version and MIchelle updates me on any new places she has found since the edition was published for the places I'm going.
I have a big pile of guidebooks. Michelle's is the best. Fodors is excellent too, very fat.
Since I'm planning our first family trip to Ireland for July 2006 I can't offer you too much advice. But I love to talk about Ireland. You'll get good advice from Michelle and the others.
Here's where I'm going with hubby and 2 young adult daughters. Try to leave some of those ginger lads for my daughters to play with, especially the nice ones. Fly into Shannon 1 night: Bunratty Lodge 3 nights: Dingle Peninsula 3 nights: Drumcreehy, Ballyvaughan, County Clare 3 nights: Westport, County Mayo 2 nights: Craig Park, Bushmills, County Antrim 2 nights: near Belfast, County Antrim 1 night: Malahide fly home from Dublin
I will look for your last journal in the trip reports section, thanks for posting it.
Of course you can plan the trip yourself, and you're in the right place to get started! It will be a great trip. But take my advice, I've planned our family trips for 5 people, and now my kids are opinionated young adults. Get the needs and wishes and wants of your travel companions figured out before you book the b&bs and before you get those airline tickets. Everybody has to understand that if they have a need it has to be stated in advance, you don't want any whiners later when you have already made commitments.
Mark is a good guy to talk to about good musical pubs.
And now I'm going to be evil and suggest a place that isn't on your route but I think you would enjoy it, but remember I haven't been to Ireland yet, this is just from my research: check out Westport, County Mayo. Matt Malloys pub sounds really fun, with great music.
Thanks for the warm welcome, Melissa! Yes, I am very female -- granted 'Green Dragon' isn't exactly oozing with femininity as a name
I was ambitious enough to set up a website for me and my traveling companions, complete with pages on sightseeing, finances, and 'travel questionnaires' to see how each person likes to travel. Also a 'mini-guide' I've made up (based on another Fodorites' Greece guide) for each, also on the website. Let me know what you think! (and once you see it, you'll realize I'm as bad as you for being travel-planning obsessed!)
"'Green Dragon' isn't exactly oozing with femininity"
But it is the name of one of my favorite pubs in Boston so I am bound to reply.
You mention in your original post that you love traditional music, dancing, and pubs among other things so my first suggestion is that you've left out the best county in Ireland for those things. County Clare is the place to go. Since you've got 4 days in 3 other places I'm thinking you could cut it down to 3 days each and add County Clare to your itinerary. That is if you want to go where the best music is. County Clare's got the other benefits too although I couldn't say for sure about the lovely ginger lads as that is not one of my areas of expertise.
As far as Killarney vs. Kenmare or Kinsale I don't think there is much of a difference in regards to pubs and music but I'd probably leans towards Killarney. I think there's more going on there in general.
Where in County Clare would you suggest? We're all up for some singing and fun! After years of doing ren faires, we have a pretty good repertoire of trad irish songs, but are ready to be humbled
That was me above -- forgot to log in! It looks like Ennis (Glor Music Centre) and Bunratty are good places. I've asked my travel companions if they would consider the following itinerary change from the first week all in Killarney:
Fly into Shannon
First 4 nights in Ennis (or other suggestions? We can go rural here, too!)
Second 4 nights in Killarney
Third 3 nights in Kilkenny
Fourth 4 nights in Dublin
Fly out of Dublin.
__________________
May the light be your guide and the darkness be your comfort!
Welcome! I'm glad Melissa invited you over to have a chat and maybe a little fun planning your trip to Ireland. I must say that I had a great time reading your trip report. It was so detailed. Just what we all enjoy here.
I think your trip sounds like great fun. I like your plan to stay put for multiple nights and I like the last itinerary you posted. You asked about Killarney as opposed to Kenmare or Kinsale. They are all fun towns and I must admit that Kenmare is my favorite small town in Ireland. However, as Mark has said, there is always more going on in Killarney as it is larger than the other two (but by no means a big city). Killarney is also very strategically placed for doing day trips to the various peninsulas. You absolutely must see Dingle!
I have lots of recommendations for places to stay (see my Lodgings page) but tell me your requirements and also a price range. Then I can narrow down the choices.
You asked about a good place to meet for the trip to Ireland. How about NY? It is usually pretty easy for people from all over the country to get a direct flight to JFK. Take a look at Aer Lingus website: www.aerlingus.com I just checked mid-June and they have flights from JFK starting at $414 rt.
If you have any other questions (or I have missed one) feel free to post again.
Green Dragon, very cool web-site for your trip planning! I love writing and research but am very far behind in technical know-how on the internet. The reason I have survived this long on-line is because my son, who has been an engineer and a computer scientist since the age of 5, just steps in and does stuff for me, so I have no idea how certain things happen, like where that button for bookmarks came from, but I finally learned how to use it.
I have been begging son and hubby to show me how to make my own web-site for trip reports, and for creative fun, but they keep saying...tomorrow...Tomorrow never comes, everyone is so busy.
I just learned how to copy and move a long string of characters about a month ago, somebody on-line taught me!
Love your trip report, which I read a delightful chunk of, but haven't finished reading yet. I left a response on your trip report post. Thanks so much for sharing it with us! I like to read the long trip reports over several sessions, so I can digest it.
It's always nice to hop on-line here and chat with you all, and but in to conversations with my stolen ideas, basically gathered from research on-line, since I haven't yet been to Ireland! (Our first trip is in July.) Therefore here I am suggesting that you stay in Dingle or Kenmare instead of Killarney...Kenmare because it sounds so cute and I wish I could have fit it into our trip; and Dingle because it sounds so lively and busy and fun, and also authentic, they still fish and farm in Dingle area even when the tourists go home. I'm looking forward to Dingle, we will have 3 nights there. Killarney sounds too touristy to me (but what do I know, I haven't even been to Ireland yet, Mark has.) But Killarney National Park sounds wonderful, I considered staying there, but couldn't fit it in.
I love the web-site Mark told me about where you can read about pub music sessions... www.irishmusicbars.com/Clare/ (Thanks, Mark!)
"First 4 nights in Ennis (or other suggestions? We can go rural here, too!)"
Ennis is perfect. You could easily spend all 4 nights there since there are plenty of music pubs to visit or if you want to venture out into the country for something different for a night or two I can give you some suggestions but it depends on what night of the week you'd be going.
Wow, that is a great website for Irish music. Can't wait to explore it!
We will be arriving the 24th of June (Saturday), hopefully in Shannon airport, to cut down on the travel time that first day (that first day is a killer!). We will be leaving Ireland on July 9th -- unfortunately, these days are cut in stone, as one of our members had to ask for her vacation time back in August. She is a 911 operator in Miami, and this was the time she could get off.
Our budget for B&Bs is around $40-45 a night each, though I know that could be difficult in high season. We are renting a car (manual) for our whole stay (yes, even when in Dublin, cuz we are doing day trips, and I've driven in Dublin several times. Heck, I've driven in London! And in the Highlands :P)
We are definitely interested in some of the B&Bs that are 'cottage' like, something old world, quaint, historical, etc. And, of course, friendly -- we love talking to the locals. We are three, so a triple would be ok, but a double and a single works as well. We had four, but the fourth can't sell her house quickly enough to get the new one settled in time :(
I checked Aer Lingus, and of course, the fares go up two days before we leave! But that's what I get going high season! I've had good luck in the past on Priceline, having gotten fares last August for $450 + taxes (575 total) Orlando to London. I am hoping I can get a similar deal for these, but I don't think I can do open jaw... we'll see. The girls are sending me their money this week, so I can start seriously shopping with cash in hand.
Thanks for all the suggestions so far! I'm getting more excited about this trip every day
__________________
May the light be your guide and the darkness be your comfort!
"We are definitely interested in some of the B&Bs that are 'cottage' like, "
Green Dragon,
If you really think you might want to get out into the country and stay in a thatched cottage then here is a place I stayed at last year. It has a double and a single room and it is a really nice place and definately quaint. The woman that runs is from Germany relocated to Ireland. Is a travel writer like our Michele. One of the top breakfasts I've had anywhere in Ireland. Lastly it is in Feakle giving you walking distance to two of the best music pubs in Ireland. However, you'd have to stay there on Wednesday and Thursday night because thats when the sessions are (Wed at Peppers and Thurs at Shortt's (aka Lena's) Bar) otherwise it probably wouldn't be worth staying there.
Mark, I'm putting Feakle on my list for our second trip to Ireland (yeah I had to plan a second trip because everyplace I want to see isn't fitting in my first trip.) Green dragon, you'll see the Feakle pubs on the pub web-site which Mark wisely sent us to!
But hey, by the time I'm booking our second trip, you will have taken another trip, and you'll discover a new hidden gem, and then I'll have to add that one to my 3rd trip!
Michelle, Ireland is addicting, I'm sure you have discovered that long ago.
I'm very excited about the idea of me going back to Ireland and attending a writer's/story-tellers conference they have annually. I heard about it somewhere on-line...now where was that? Gotta get an Ireland Writer's Conference file going. Greendragon, my files are mostly paper files, I'm not good enough on the computer to have cool web-sites like you do.
I know Ireland is addicting. Look what it did to me! Who knew when I coerced my husband into going in 1973 it would turn into this. Are you thinking of Listowel Writers' Week? http://www.writersweek.ie/
Michelle, yes, that was it, the Listowell writer's week, and it's coming up in May/June. You're a genius! Thanks. I've always wanted to get a novel published (would help to FINISH one) and love writer's conferences for inspiration and good tips, and meeting other writers. Plus I can't imagine a place I would rather go for a writer's conference than Ireland...I can feel those story-telling genes in my Irish bones...
I am toying with what I could do with travel writing. I don't want to write guidebooks (you have already written the best one for Ireland ) The trouble is right now I don't quite know what I want to write, but I've always liked poetry and fiction, and now I love travel too. Must be some way to combine those interests.
I'll toss in my two cents: I think your plan of 4 base cities is great! Last spring I stayed 3 nights in Ennis, 3 nights near Cork, 5 nights Killarney (did Dingle, ROK, Muckross House, Gap of Dunloe, etc.) and last night near Shannon. It worked out well.
I would stick with your idea to stay in Killarney rather than one of the smaller towns. It sounds like you folks want a pint (or more ) and some music at night and Killarney has a lot of variety.
Green Dragon, we'll be in Ireland on the same day...but we'll be recent arrivals in Shannon when you are getting ready to leave Ireland. Are you flying home out of Dublin?
I left 2 more responses under your trip report. Happy Ireland trip planning!
You should write an article about obsessive travel planning via the Internet! I think it would be just the thing that perhaps Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine might like. So many people don't know how to get started with their online searches. You could give them loads of tips. What do you think?
If you want to be within walking distance of Killarney you might enjoy Earl's Court House: http://www.killarney-earlscourt.ie/index.html I'm sure they would have a room that would accommodate all three of you. It is a place that is full of antiques, open fires, etc. and has free Internet access for guests. Another nice one is Killarney Lodge: www.killarneylodge.net
If you don't mind being a few miles from town I really like:
Michelle, I could give those trip-planning newbies tips on how to get started...and started...and started...and started...and started...and started...and started...and started...Ummm...I might not be as good at telling them how to end!
Seriously, thanks for the suggestion. It gives me someplace to start looking. If I want to write for a new genre, I have to get the creative juices going, but I also have to do market research (which translates as I have to find creative inspiration AND figure out who's going to pay me some pennies for my thoughts!) You only get pennies for your thoughts if you have readers. So you have to figure out who you're writing for. I'm sure you know all this, but I am actually giving myself a pep talk, which you have stimulated me to do with your supportive suggestion.
My friend gave me info on a 1-day travel writing class. And I could take the class before my Ireland trip, which might give me some more ideas.
The class sounds like a good idea. Especially as it is only for a day. Not a big investment of time or money and you may pick up some tips or contacts.
Melissa, you could also write your travel experiences as a story. There is a great book I read, recommended by someone I met at an art fair (after seeing my Irish photos on sale) and it's called "The Red-Haired Girl from the Bog: The Landscape of Celtic Myth and Spirit" by Patricia Monaghan
It is the story of her visit to Ireland, searching for her roots, her experiences, the mysteries of the island, etc. It is a captivating book, and I'm sure you would do well with something similar. I've considered doing something similar myself!
For B&Bs, we're looking for something slightly more on the budget end. I wouldn't mind, personally, as the suggestions look great, but the two girls I'm traveling with are on a shoestring. We were looking at a couple for Killarney, including Marian House, Amber Rose, Crabtree Cottage, Muckross Riding Stables, and Woodgrove Farm. Any information on the above are greatly appreciated!
I've emailed Alcantra for our time in Kilkenny, and they have a triple for us, so I'm making reservations there. I mentioned that I found them on Michelle's site, of course!
For Ennis, I've contacted Stone Haven B&B, as that looks like a nice first start for our trip.
This is our fleshed out itinerary for now. It assumes flying in and out of Shannon (evening entertainment suggestions are up for whatever we find!):
June 23rd, flight
ENNIS
June 24th, arrive in Shannon, drive to Ennis, check in, relax, explore the town if we have energy. Perhaps see if something is going on at a pub or the Glor.
June 25th -- The Burren
June 26th -- Aran Islands in the am (if possible), Explore Ennis more in the pm, Bunratty at night?
June 27th -- Craggaunowen and/or Bunratty Folk Park
KILLARNEY
June 28th -- Drive to Killarney, check in, explore the town, perhaps some of the park.
June 29th -- Dingle Peninsula/Tralee
June 30th -- Muckross House/Farms/Killarney Natl Park
July 1st -- Ring of Kerry
KILKENNY
July 2nd -- Rock of Cashel/Cahir/Swiss Cottage on way to Kilkenny. Check into Alcantra.
July 3rd -- Explore Kilkenny
July 4th -- Kells Priory/Jerpoint/Inistioghe
DUBLIN
July 5th -- Glendalough/Powerscourt, check into B&B Dublin
July 6th -- Hopon/Hopoff tour/ explore Dublin
July 7th -- Hill of Tara/Trim/Slane Abbey/Newgrange/Malahide
July 8th -- Explore Dublin/drive back to Shannon for final night in Ireland
July 9th -- fly home.
-- Edited by Green Dragon at 09:44, 2006-01-30
-- Edited by Green Dragon at 16:58, 2006-01-30
__________________
May the light be your guide and the darkness be your comfort!
Green Dragon and Michele, thanks for the encouragement about dipping my toe into travel writing. I will check out that book on the red-haired girl from the bog...will have to wait til after our trip to St. Kitts.
Green Dragon, yes yes, you should definitely put together a book, spun creatively out of your experiences and imaginings in Ireland! Keep a journal. Let us know what you come up with, I know it will be good.