Hello all, especially Michelle and Bit Devine,

Jet lag must have been the culprit.  I lost my beginning recap for you.  So I've decided to write in installments.  This is probably better for you - shorter reads.  And better for me - I can share without overwhelming myself.  So much to tell!

Preparation

 Here’s my happy story.  I’ll give you more of the travel details than I report to friends because I know how important so called “little” travel tips can be.  Take what’s useful to you and leave the rest.

 

Listening to “My dream of you” was wonderful and helped more than I realized on the journey in terms of understanding various ways of speaking and some recent Irish history that was important to know in several conversations that resulted in wonderful inviations.

 

A specific moment in the audo book that got my attention was when she said she borrowed a pair of high rubber boots to walk in the muddy fields.  I brought my high rubber boots that I used years ago when my garage used to flood. I also threw in at the last moment my heavy but smart looking LL Bean fake suede and leather boots with good traction on soles and heels that I use mostly for walking my dog. I brought them to the shoemaker and got thick plush foot liners for both pair.  I also waterproof sprayed all my shoes.  Those two pair of boots were the most used footwear on my trip and certainly created a lot of envy on the part of tourists visiting castles and walked stone streets in soggy tennis shoes during brief but strong downpours.  I was cozy and comfortable. It’s my experience that comfortable feet are essential for a good travel experience! My hunch is also that, especially in rural areas, people were more at ease with me because of the link we shared in shoes! The rubber boots they called "willies" and the LLBean boots got appreciative comments and questions about where I got them and if they were expensive. They people - especially at a farmers market in the rain in Kilmallock - seemed to be more drawn to me in conversation when they learned the boots didn't cost much at all.

 

I read Frank Delany’s “Ireland” which was a complete and fascinating delight.  On my trip I discovered that the stories told by the storyteller in his book were fundamental cultural bits and pieces of information and lore shared by most of the people I met. The fact that I was familiar with these historic and mythical tales was a wonderful bridge in building conversations and developing relationships.

 

“Murphy’s Bar” I found dull reading, a report of the adult shenanigans of an old adolescent, BUT scanning the book gave me an invaluable treasure than greatly enhanced my trip experience for the better.  The author said you can tell an American immediately because the American says, “Excuse me, please.  Can you tell me the way to …….?”

 

Well, of course I was lost and found a lot in Ireland and was asking in just that way (at first.)

The Irish way is to stop someone and immediately start conversation: “Fine day.” “Sure is raining today.” “Not much foot traffic on this street.”  “Cars are certainly moving along.”  Etc.

You can say anything. You can even say “fine day” when it’s raining.  Doesn’t really matter what you say, but it’s important to say something in a declarative sentence.  The other person will immediately pick up the line and start a conversation.  After a few minutes you then say, “I was looking for Dungarven Road.”  Or, “I was looking for St. Mary’s Church, the old one.”

 

You will then get a serious nod followed by intense directions that have at least 25 to thirty pivotal points and be told to

ask someone else when you get closer.  During this process you can learn about the town, families, local politics, gossip, etc. 

 

Concerned about food allergies I brought back up supplies with me and special digestive enzymes given me by my chiropracter.  Most of the supplies I brought with me were unnecessary and I left them along the way.  What was great to have in the car was:  bottled water, granola bars and fruit from farmer's markets.

I did a lot of exploring and found myself in forests and wild rural areas - gorgeous and so worthwhile - but containing no readily available meals or snacks.  To this point, I also filled the gas tank of my little black Astos at the 3/4 full point whenever possible because I never knew how far I would travel before I found another station.

 

More details: I brought an ankle length and hooded light and roomy raincoat I could wear straight or over an overcoat.  I did both and was glad for it.  I also brought a thigh length, zipper and hooded waterproof windbreaker that I could wear straight or over a short jacket and was glad of it.

 

I printed out all my travel information, reservations, agreements, made copies of them as well as of my credit card, drivers license and passport, and put one copy in every carrying item I brought with me - suit case, duffel bag, back pack and small money/ID pouch worn under my clothes.

 

Things I didn't need but might have and brought with me:  flat tire repair can, extra reading glasses, flash light.

 

Glad I brought: disinfectant wipe naps - especially for rural travel - and hair conditioner (I found soap and shampoo available at all accomodations but no hair conditioner), toothpaste and moisturizer, gloves, fleece hat - small back pack (light, easy to carry, hands free - was able to have rain gear with me at all times - happily so.)

 

This part was longer than I thought it would be, but could be useful to you.  Next post will start the trip recap.

 

I'm still smiling about it and feel so enriched.

 

Bye for now.

 

Diana

 

 

Hello all, especially Michele and Brit,

Finally I feel ready to write a bit about my trip.  The last time I tried the forum wouldn't allow the length of my post - and I was just starting to share!   Now I'll try again and in a more succinct way.

Driving on the left was a wonderful brain exercise, alerting and refreshing my mind. Getting lost, overwhelmed by Irish roads and signs (or lack of them) was a joy.  I was constantly creating strategies for safe and effective movement and also meeting wonderful people who provided conversation, directions and often physical leading to help me reach my destination.  Amazing how strangers would say, "Follow me.  I'll lead you to ....... " so I could get my bearings and proceed.  This was especially important to me in getting through Limerick from Shannon to get on the Kilmallock road.

In Kilmallck I stayed at Flemingstown House - I highly recommend it.  Beautiful setting.  Great food.  Friendly cows, dancing hares in the morning under the trees, breathtaking countryside, almost no tourists - actually I think I may have been the only one in town and at FH.  Imelda, our hostess, is warm, friendly and so very generous in helping me/us be comfortable. 

Through the people I met there I was invited to attend a funeral in Knock Long, a tiny village.This was a moving and wonderful experience.  I learned so much about the family and the town and its traditions including the combination of Christian belief and the old but still alive believes about the sacred wells.  One adult shared a childhoold memory of bring brought yet again to the holy well and crying out, "No!  Not the green water!" before she got doused.  My books say no sacred wells exist in this part of Ireland anymore.  The books are wrong.  So I heard "Rock of Ages" and "Amazing Grace" sung so sweetly in a tiny church, the burial was behind the church (they bury people on top of one another so generations of family members are under one stone).  The wake, at a pub in Emly, was friendly and almost on the festive side with a real peat fire that with one rifle shot heated stone, hot soup on this cool rainy day and fine conversation.  Then I went to dinner with the family in the back room of a tiny pub where we were the only diners and ate simply and well.

I stayed in the area for three days.  Then made my way to Clonmel for the writers festival. (After the glimpse of Limerick I decided I didn't want to attend the poetry festival there.)

I visited castles on the way and finally reached Clonmell by near dark.  I could not negotiate the darkness and the complex one way road system.  So I went to the Tipperary Institute where the kind people there made my reservations for the festival and called my new hostess from Glashia who came to lead me to my new home. 

This farm house was too pretentious for me. And it was a bit on the controlling side. I didn't stay long.  The first day took a bus to Dublin where I met colleagues who showed me their clinic, introduced me to staff and then we had a Dublin day.  Lovely to eat lunch at the top of the Dome, walk through Trinity College and do a bus tour of the city while sharing ideas and making new friends.

The bus ride back was great too.  A teacher of physics said I couldn't return to the US without hearing a ghost story and he told me one about one section of our roadway.

I don't know if I'll run out of space here so I'll summarize and write more later.

Great guesthouse in Clonmel:  Riverside B&B run by Pauline O'Gorman and her sisterinlaw Betty. Gracious authentic three story building, hot soup at night in the kitchen below ground level, on the river with wild swans crusing, sweet granddaughter Ellie, rich conversations and excellent support for my adventures.

At Mount Melleray Abbey - beautiful and profound - I met and had a long visit with one of the monks, Father Bonaventura.  He told me the stories fo the stained glass windows and we chatted in the back in easy chairs in front of an electric fire for hours.

Drive through the "V" in drizzle and sunshine - lots of rainbows.  Land is a combination of English moors, California Big Sur all gentled down with lakes.

Rescued some hill walkers caught in a hail storm.

Lunch for me almost every day was soup at a pub.  To me that was great in terms of taste and feel on cold rainy days.

Learned about a house with a curse on it and how the curse was about to be removed.

Had wonderful conversations at local Farmers Markets.  Was given lovely gifts - including a book Father Bonaventura wrote, a coat and two skirts from Pauline.  I also gave gifts - books about Ireland I had finished reading there and treats I found along the road - the best was a home made apple tart from a muddy rained out farm on return from the monastery.

Also, got to dance alone under the trees in the largest stone circle in Ireland.  My original call to Ireland was: green, old stones, rain.  I got it all blended meeting people I will never forget.

It was my first trip to Ireland, but not my last.

And Brit, your suggestion of staying at the Great Southern Hotel at Shannon Airport my last night was brilliant!  Thank you.

Warm regards to all,

 

Diana

 

 

 

 

Thanks for sharing. Sounds like your effort to get to know the "real" Ireland paid off.

I'm very interested in hearing about that ghost story and the cursed house.

When we were in Killmallock, we also felt like we were the only tourists in town...and it's a decent-sized village.

As for your book not noting any holy wells in the area...I think it's safe to say that you can't go anywhere in Counties Limerick or Tipperary without being within 5 miles of a well. If anyone gets the chance to attend a mass at one of the wells, they should do it. The person who owns the land with the well, usually spends a great deal of time tidying up the area. The mass at the well is talked about by all the people in the immediate vacinity. It's truly a community affair with musicians (young and old), visiting and a stop at the local pub afterwards.

Thanks again for letting us know how things went.