Michele --

This makes #15.  Hoping to return in late September / early October for a visit to the Sligo area, to attend the O'Dubhda Clan Gathering (which is apparently only held every THREE years!?  ) -- among other options .

This was SIL's first visit to the SE -- she's traveled with us, before (Ireland -1999, 2002 and our Spring visit, last year-- as well as New England, in 2001 and NYC in 2011).  Wanted to 'Cram In' as much as possible for her short visit.  Good traveling companion, she.  We mesh well.

PLUS -- she pack lots and lots of 'Snacky Cakes' ...    

Susan -- Dunno WHICH Terminal the Dooley counter is in but it WAS a long hike -- partly, Outdoors --- heading towards the Parking Garages.  Once we had secured our paperwork we went through some big glass doors and rode an elevator down a floor to a ground-level parking area, turned Left to clear the elevator structure / support wall and the Left again, onto a sidewalk that led to an access road.  I could see the SAS Radison Blu from there.  That's where we were picked up by the shuttle bus.

Hope that helps ???     

Bob

Hi Bob -Great report so far!

Did the Dooley Airport counter move to the new terminal.Last Sept. it was still in the old terminal and was a hike with all our luggage and jet-lag.

Thanks 

Susan

I would like to preface this entry with a caveat and an explanation --

The excuse: This trip and in particular, the first few days were MUCH more hectic and busy then my typical visits -- partly due to SILs Wish List and partly due to the Thursday afternoon Deadline for being in Cork.

How I typically plan for ANY visit: My usual guideline is to plan as if for TWO trips and then (to use my sons USMC adage), Adapt and Overcome. What that means, in simple English, is that I usually research an area via hints and suggestions from other posters comments, Micheles excellent guidebook and advices and assorted specialty websites, such as Megalithic Ireland, local tourism sites and sometimes, the Links pages attached to some of the accommodation websites. From these choices, I create a list of interesting sites to visit that usually include nearly everything nearby -- even though doing so would require two days time. Then, I calculate a route, with annotations for the assorted detours.

This way, based upon various factors -- we decide to skip a site, the weather isnt conducive to climbing a hill, or trekking through a field, were running late . Etcetera, etcetera I can modify the itinerary On The Fly.

The ADDED benefit is that I need must, invariably, Drop a goodly number of sites from the days agenda -- thereby virtually guaranteeing that we HAVE to RETURN at some future date ---

Day 2: While the ladies showered and shampooed, etc, I did a brief walk about of the strand, then returned to the room to emulate their good hygiene whilst they packed up. We quickly settled up and I drove the car around front ,so that we could load up our luggage more easily. The morning was cold, grey and blustery. We drove into town and located a little café near the Vodaphone shop that the desk clerk at the Esplanade had recommended and enjoyed a quick, inexpensive breakfast and then drove to the nearby Tesco so that I could buy a replacement SIM card for 3 Euro -- It seemed much simpler to do THAT, rather than re-attempting to activate my old one, since I had already purchased the 10 Euro Top Up.

From the Tesco, I drove us North towards the N11 Junction -- but I detoured West, driving through two close together Roundabouts to view the Fassaroe Cross. This one is St Valerys Cross , and is actually located IN Fassaroe -- though there are a number of Fassaroe Crosses scattered about Co. Wicklow. The St Valerys Cross location is namesake to the group. The cross sits along side the Roundabout on a small, raised pedestal and you park on the side of the road -- IN the Roundabout. NOT that doing so is a problem -- I think that I only saw one other car, the entire time that we were there!

After a few pix, I drove back to the N11 Junction and took it South, to the R750, through Wicklow town, then continued South, past Wicklow Head, along the coast, to Arklow. We stopped at the Wicklow Golf Club, parked and followed the path down to the small, stormy and rocky beach -- passing under cart bridges serving the course that laid out above and to either side of the walkway. Its a gorgeous spot. From there, we continued South and stopped again, to park in front of the locked entrance gate to the North Car Park for Brittas Bay. A goodly hike led us through the large car park, past the locked Public Toilet / Concession building to the pathway through the dunes, to one of the longest, largest pure sand beaches in all of Ireland. After a cool, windy romp, we returned to the car and continued following the coast South, into Arklow and turned onto the R747.

That road shadows the Avoca River, through Woodenbridge, where we turned onto the R752 and continued along the river, into Avoca. We turned off there, for a visit to the Woolen Mills and lunch. It was PERFECT timing, it turned out, as about 10 minutes after we arrived, the first of FOUR Tour Buses arrived chartered to Princess Cruise Lines !!! We enjoyed a leisurely lunch watch the hordes milling about, wrangling for seats and suitable bargains

Back on the road, we returned to the R752 and continued along the Vale of Avoca Drive. We stopped again, at The Meeting of the Waters for some photos and I pointed out the bullaun stone resting there. Our next stop was at the Glendalough Visitors Center, for toilet breaks -- and our first encounter with the rudest group of French students -- ever.

They had disgorged from a massive bus, just before we parked and they milled about, blocking every walkway and door, jabbering away, totally oblivious the any and everyone else trying to gain entry. VERY poor National Ambassadors, I would say. The icing on the cake came when two or three, who hovered about, blocking access to a trash can tossed their paper wrappers onto the ground!

With the sky growing darker, we opted NOT to tour the Visitors Center -- particularly since we couldnt see any way through the Invading Gauls -- so I drove down to the Entrance Gate and parked, in the small Car Park along the road to the Upper Lake. We set about exploring St Kevins Monastic site. After an hour or so spent in tranquil adoration, the French students invaded and we fled to the Upper Lake.

It cost 6 Euro to enter the Car Park and the ladies protested my wisdom to do so, but I was on a mission. On our very first visit to Ireland, in 199, SILs wish list included seeing a stone Ring Fort. Timing, weather, our locations and ignorance (on my part) had caused that wish to remain unfulfilled, the, AND in the two subsequent visits that she had accompanied us.

Megalithic Ireland said that there was a caher located just to the West of the Upper Lake -- and I was DETERMINED to find it! I asked the parking attendant where it was located, but he clearly didnt have a clue ???? And referred me to a map in the guard shack. I should point out that he was apparently POLISH and his grasp of English -- though certainly functional -- was less than extensive!

We parked at the far North West end of the car park and took the path from there to the lake. Sure enough, there it was, to our left -- surrounded by a scattering of OLD crosses. Its not a particularly big or impressive a structure -- but it was a genuine, recognizable Ring Fort! We dawdled for a while, enjoying the peace and serenity, but it was getting late and a large Tour Bus stopped, just outside the toll barrier and disgorged a horde of tourists -- apparently AVOIDING the entry charge, since they all walked in, sans vehicle !?!

Back on the road, we detoured back toward town in order to acquire a Diet Coke, some water and two 99s. I then drove us back out, past Riversdale House (where we Self-Catered last June) and onward, through the Wicklow Gap, to Hollywood. The weather kept alternating from blue skies and sunshine to grey, overcast and even short bursts of rain -- but the rain invariably came and went while we were driving and obligingly, always disappeared well before we stopped anywhere. It seemed to get worse as we headed North, or West -- and IMPROVE, whenever I pointed the Focus either South, or East????

Running behind schedule, I edited our itinerary -- so we didnt make it to Blessington, nor to a handful of megalithic sites that lay more-or-less along our line of travel. From Hollywood, I drove South, on the N81, all the way to Enniscorthy. Dropped for our list along THIS stretch, was Moone High Cross, Castledermot, Rathgall Stone Fort and the Castle and Round Tower, at Ferns We DID pause, briefly, in Baltinglass, to view the Abbey from across the river, but we didnt want to arrive in Wexford too tired (or too late) to enjoy our stay

After negotiating the traffic in Enniscorthy, eased onto the N11 and continued South, until reaching the R730 Junction, located just after crossing the River Slaney. I pointed out the imposing Faux Round Tower (built in the 1800s to commemorate the Rising of 98), the ancient bridge and location of The Irish National Heritage Park, but we passed them all by as we headed East, into Wexford town. We turned North and re-crossed the Slaney on the Harbor Bridge, following signs for the R741. Immediately after the end of the bridge is the entrance to Riverbank House Hotel and our accommodation for the night. I had booked another Triple, this one B&B, for 99 Euro.

The helpful and friendly desk clerk provided a map of the town, info on parking and recommended both an EXCELLENT dining option and verified that there was Live Music on, at a nearby pub!

We drove back across the bridge and into town. After a drive by of Selskar Abbey, I parked the Focus in a Car Park at a Dunnes and we walked two short block to the NE to The Yard. Great food, moderately priced amid interesting décor. Well worth a return. After dining, we made our way 2-3 short blocks SW to T. Morris for their Trad Session (every Tues, Weds, and Thurs). Tonights entertainment was a trio -- guitar, fiddle and flute -- true Trad performed for a mostly Local crowd! Most excellent. We arrived about 9:45 and stayed about two hours and then made our weary way back to the Riverbank, to sleep.

More to come ...

Bob

Bob

As always I am finding your trip report informative and entertaining. We have not really spent any time in the Southeast - maybe next year.

I bought a Tesco mobile last year in Ireland (the Republic). Do you know if I would be able to buy a new SIM in Scotland this year and use the same phone?

Stewart

Thanks Bob for the info on the Dooley counter.It sounds like even more round-about then last year.

Enjoying your report!

Susan

Our apartment at The Paddocks was a two bedroom (1 double, 1 twin) ground-floor, handicap accessible (including a wet-room shower), that had a gas fireplace in the living room and a dishwasher and washer/dryer combo in the kitchen. Floors are wood in the bedrooms and living rooms and tile, everywhere else. There are two multi-unit buildings that face each other across a large parking area and a second area, of detached houses, as well. I would guess most of the units are 4-5 years old. Nearby is a large Horse barn / arena -- hence, the name.

NOT a small place.

I managed to have a brief conversation with the owner/builder. He told me that his business model calls for staging 2-3 large events (either Long Weekend, or Full week) at the arena and subsequently, filling the Holiday Homes because of that. Such an event had recently taken place (late March-early April), he said -- and done JUST that..

It was a small, urban cluster of buildings -- WELL and truly 'Out In The Country' -- access via a L-O-N-G driveway, off a small crossroad between two small roads- the R626 and the R634! As the crow flies, it was probably only two miles to Midleton town center -- but as the roads go -- it SEEMED more like Twenty    !

Didnt really spend enough time there (an Understatement, if there ever was one!       ) to properly judge the place and I honestly dont know what our four nights cost as the Cousins booked it -- but with NO nearby (read walking distance) pubs or major attractions, I dont believe it would have much Tourist appeal          

BUT, NOW -- The Wedding -- Day One:

After a quick orientation and wash up, we departed The Paddocks to head to the Brides Parents House. Trying to Orient myself for the numerous impending trips, I searched out the route to the R626, since we had arrived from off the R634.  After a couple of false starts / wrong turns, we were heading North on the R626, winding along side of and crossing (Again and AGAIN!) the Owennacurra River. The countryside is hilly and heavily forested -- reminding me very much of driving on the sun-dappled, tree-shrouded, back roads in Upstate New York and New England.

   Very picturesque. Very pretty. Very Tranquil and Restful. 

We did a Drive By of the Lisgoold Church and arrived at our destination about 6:30.  We believed that we were a attending a small, family Get Together and so, had dressed casually.

We were Wrong!   

Apparently, it is a Custom for family, neighbors and friends (and friends of friends!) to Drop In to the Brides Parents House, on the night before the wedding. And, apparently, Irish women deem any event as sufficient justification to dress as Elegantly as possible. Thankfully (for ME), Irish men seem to only deem actual weddings as sufficient cause to require Dressy attire My khaki pants and collared shirt placed me firmly on the dressier side of the male guest -- but my wife and SIL felt decidedly Under-dressed. Other than them feeling some-what self-conscious, though, it didnt really matter to anyone else  

The get-together was more like an Open House, rather than a true party. Some people came and went fairly quickly, while others may NEVER have left, for all that I know.     There was an abundance of food and beverages -- mostly, tea, coffee, sodas and beer and people wandered about the house, migrating from one conversation cluster to another. There were, perhaps a dozen Cousins there and we caught up on life events that had transpired since we saw them last, in June, and SILs last visit, about a year ago.

We started making polite noises about leaving, somewhere around 9:30, or 10:00, suggesting that the Bride and her parents would need some sleep before their big day -- but the Cousins dismissed that notion entirely. They assured us that people would continue to come and go, WELL into the night.

FYI -- the Bride and her brides maids were spending the night and had scheduled a Team of hair and make up people to arrive about 7:30 AM, to prep the wedding party for the 1 PM wedding! Apparently, Sleep is NOT an option!          

I think that we finally managed to depart about 1:30, but it MAY have been after 2, before I finally drove the Focus back over the mountain past the Lisgoold church and turned South, onto the Picturesque, Pretty, Peaceful and Tranquil R626.

While ALL of those adjectives MIGHT be appropriate and accurate in the waning hours of daylight -- NONE of them are --- on a cold, dark night -- circa 2 AM!!!!     

There are VERY few street lights and directional signage in most of Ireland -- and absolutely NONE, in the vicinity of our location. Likewise, visual cues that seemed so readily obvious, in day light, have a nasty habit of vanishing, once the sun goes down!       

It made for an INTERESTING drive. 

We finally made it to bed -- about 3:30. 

More to come

Bob

The actual Wedding Day -- Friday, Day two -- broke under questionable skies, undecided as to if it should burn off, or just surrender and become an all-day deluge. We opted to think positive thoughts and EXPECT blue skies and fluffy white clouds. It was to turn out that the Power Of Positive Thinking would win out -- for the MOST part

The Wedding ceremony was scheduled to begin at 1 PM and we arrived to a half-empty church, about 12:40. By the designated time, however, the church was filled to the rafters (approx 300 people -- the OFFICIAL count was for 285 at the reception) and the service lasted about an hour. Another 30 minutes or so passed outside the church as the bride, groom and parents formed a Receiving Line at the door. Perhaps it should be called a Departing Line???? Though cool, the skies were partly cloudy, with large patches of clear, blue sky -- though, usually, dark clouds invariably hovered about the periphery.

After milling about for a bit, the Wedding Party departed -- heading off to some pre-selected, photogenic site, to take the traditional, staged, wedding party pix. Those of us remaining, were left with simple choices -- either head West, to the Reception venue -- or a few hundred feet East -- to the nearest Pub! As tempting as the pub sounded, the ladies and I opted to follow the majority of guests, since it would make finding the hotel that much easier which means that we only got lost ONCE!!!   

In MY defense, the car that I was following turned out to be driven by a fellow from NYC!     Enroute, we encountered to brief rain showers -- and even a minute or two of hail! -- but, by the time we reached our destination, the sun had pushed the clouds back from overhead, once again.   

Maryborough House sits atop Maryborough Hill, just South West of Cork city, in the suburb of Douglas. The complex, combining newer extensions to a Great House originally built in the Early 1700s, sits on approximately 30 manicured acres. I had booked a triple room for the night, at 65 Euro Per Person, B&B, anticipating that returning to our Free lodgings in Midelton might prove problematical., given the anticipated duration of the Reception.

The Registration Desk is at the rear of the main floor of the original building. Nearby was a door that led outdoors, to the rear garden. Abutting the West end of the building, there was a VERY large, multi-sectioned, canopied Pavilion, replete with sidewall curtains. Within, were numerous seating areas and, at one end, a complete, fully stocked and equipped bar. Servers wandered about, carrying trays of Champaign and finger foods. At any given time, I would guess that there were between 120-150 people Under Canopy. The remainder of the Guests stood about the Garden, or sat in some of the myriad of areas available indoors.

About 5:30, an employee did a walk through, Ringing The Bell -- signaling that it was time to be seated, for dinner and everyone abandoned the Pavilion and made our way to the Banquet Room.

We were treated to a choice of four meals -- a beef, a fish, a chicken and a vegetarian on offer -- replete with a meal-appropriate starter, an acorn squash soup, a palette cleansing sorbet, the main course and a choice of desert. In addition, there were sides of mixed veg, garlic potatoes and some sort of escalloped potato, as well. While we awaited delivery of our meal, we were thoroughly entertained by a Tipperary born, Italian Chef who worked the crowd, telling jokes and singing Traditional Italian songs -- Think Dean Martin, Perry Como and Frank Sinatra

Plates were cleared away about 9:30 !! ! Followed on by toasts, speeches and First Dances, as a live band began to play. About midnight, the band packed it in, the lights came on -- and people were encouraged to assault some large tables, piled high with burgers, fried chicken and Fish and Chips --- because, God Knows --- somebody -- SOMEWHERE -- MUST be Famished!!!!?????!!!!

About 12:30, the lights dimmed and a DJ began spinning discs. Somewhen, during the next few hours, time out was taken to perform the customary rituals concerning cake cutting and garter and bouquet retrieval and redistribution. By about 3:30 AM, I was feeling slightly ill, so I called it a night and headed upstairs to our room. My wife and SIL hung in, until about 4:30, when the Hotel Staff began to quietly ease the revelers OUT of the Banquet Hall -- and INTO the Residents Bar!! Im told that many had a Grand Time there -- for another couple of hours.

That much is all hearsay, though. We slept the deep sleep of the Righteous, until a little after 10:00 AM -- realizing that we had only an hour and a half for the three of us to shower, dress, pack up and vacate

Time was wasting. We needed to hurry, if we were to have any hope of sneaking in an afternoon nap!

Because, after all --- the REAL party was scheduled to start at 6:00 PM!

More to Come

Bob

Day Three of the Wedding -- Saturday, 21 April:

After checking out, we decided to search out a suitable gift for the cousins that had secured our accommodations at the Paddocks (among many other items of kindness and generosity), so we checked out the Maryborough Houses VERY impressive Spa facilities and purchased two gift cards that would offer a (hopefully) relaxing respite from the hectic, Wedding Frenzy. The Cousins seemed impressed (and a trifle scandalized --- at the expense ), so we think it was appreciated????    

Having missed out on our included breakfast due to our silly, old-fashioned insistence upon actually sleeping, we went into Douglas, in search of lunch. Quite by accident, we stumbled upon the

Amicus Café & Restaurant, just off the East Village area. The side street is filled up with new, modern buildings, but the main area is chock-a-block with nicely restored, turn of the century ( Late 1800s, to be specific ) buildings filled up with every imaginable type of shop, Restaurant and Pub. Seems like a really nice area.

Food and service at Americus were both Top-Notch and we toyed with the idea of adding a Gift Certificate from there, for the Cousins to use, après-spa. We decided that might be a BIT too much dictatorial --- You know -- Go HERE. Get a massage. Do the Spa. Eat HERE!) -- so we didnt.  

Turns out, it is actually one of their FAVORITE cafes! Ah, well I DEFINITELY recommend the place (and presume that their OTHER site -- Paul Street, City Center) is also worth a stop.

While we were sitting at our seats by the front window, the overcast sky gave way to first rain -- and then, a short, but significant down pouring --- of HAIL! They were pea sized and after a few minutes, the accumulation was visibly significant. Yet, by the time lunch was finished and we were ready to depart, not only were they all gone, but the streets were mostly dry -- and we were treated to Blue skies and sunshine!

Go figure!            

We returned to Midelton and did some obligatory shopping, before returning to The Paddocks. We arrived at the brides parents house about 6:30. It is a LARGE, two-storey, that is shaped like a backward L. A drive circles around to the sheltered, paver covered side-yard. The upright of the L is formed by an extension to the original house that includes a eat-in kitchen, a family/game room and a two and ½ car garage -- but the bay closest to the house was converted into a Back Kitchen with an adjoining, full bathroom. Between the garage bays is a staircase to a second floor that has two spare rooms.

In the garage bay that was nominally STILL a garage, a FULL bar was set up, facing the open overhead door. Just beyond it was side entry into a REALLY large Marque (tent) replete with windowed side curtains. About half the floor area included a raised wooden dance floor, while the other half contained tables and chairs. Passing through the other side entrance placed you in the cobbled side-yard, where a 10 X 10 canopy covered a commercial grill and two basket deep fry cooker. Two employees were cranking out massive volumes of burgers, chicken and fish and chips. A ways from that, a large fire pit was set up -- encircled by chairs.

FYI -- For any familiar with the history of my Trip Reports, the Marque was the SAME from the infamous 40^th Birthday Parties of 2004 and 2005 -- Waste Not / Want Not! It is at LEAST 30 X 60 and holds a LOT of sitters and dancers!       

I would guesstimate the Head Count was right around 200. Once again, MOST of the women dressed as if for a formal party -- whereas, the men generally chose to abandon all pretext of 'dressy' attire. 

There was MUCH food and drink consumed. There was laughter and tears and excitement -- but NO drama. A DJ set up his equipment about 8 PM and I helped him load up some (but NOT all) of it -- around 2:30 AM!

We left, shortly thereafter, but with the drive home in the dark,      and all, it was about 3:15 or 3:30 before we crawled into bed. There were probably still more than 50 guests when we left -- Dunno how the Irish do it!

More to come ...

Bob

Wedding Day 4 ; Sunday, 22 April:

I found myself WIDE awake (!) at 8 AM            ??? So, there was nothing for it, but to rise quietly and head into town. There was another planned GTG at the Brides Parents scheduled for the evening, but SIL had expressed an interest in visiting The Grandmothers village of Drimoleague and today was the only possible day to do so.

Once in Midelton, I drew off some Euros from the ATM, did a leisurely drive around -- Orienteering -- and then waited patiently for the Tesco to open, at 9 AM. Since we would be making our obligatory Cemetery Visits, I purchased three bunches of flowers, along with a few incidental supplies -- like soda and Snackee Cakes -- and then meandered on back to the Paddocks.

When I returned, the ladies were sitting in the living room, half asleep still and were fairly quick to give up on the idea of making it to Drimoleague (about a 2 hour drive) for 12:00 Mass. As it was, we barely managed to shower, dress and hit the road much before 11:15    

We followed the N25 into the Dunkettle Roundabout ( where it merges with the N8) and followed through, to the Jack Lynch Tunnel. Once through, I followed the South Ring Road through to the N71 / Bandon Road, where I turned onto the R586, toward Dunmanway.

FYI -- There is MAJOR construction taking place at the Kinsale Road, Sarsfield Road AND Bandon Road Roundabouts! Im told that the PLAN is to add Flyovers -- so that, at SOME future date, the South Ring Road will be continuous highway -- and that the only need to negotiate a Roundabout would be if you Exited the Ring Road FIRST -- If, for example, you wished to shop at the Wilton Mall, for example It will make driving AROUND Cork City MUCH easier .

We visited the Church in Drimoleague, as well as one cemetery each, in Cork City and Drimoleague and showed SIL around the Cousins Weekend House, before making our way down to Skibbereen, where we stopped for a late lunch. I parked in the Car Park behind the Super Value and we ate a pleasant meal at on of the nearby pubs. The entrance was just to the left of the Super Value and the meal, service and ambiance was quite good, but Ive honestly forgotten the critical details, because just after leaving, I drove by the ruins of the late, Great, Church Restaurant-- only to discover that it had Risen from the Ashes -- like the phoenix!!!!           

Havent eaten there for a few years (since just before the fire, in fact) but If it is HALF as good as I remember, it is a MUST visit!   

Back on the road, I headed South and East, on the R596, toward Castletownshend, in search of Knockdrum Fort, the Three Fingers and, of course, the village, itself. After stopping in at the harbor, we had trouble following the directions on the referenced website printout -- as the only reasonable interpretation lead us to a CLOSED gate -- prominently signed with a LARGE -- NO PARKING --- DO NOT BLOCK GATE warning. There was NO where else to park, except for a school and church, SEVERAL hundreds of yards away.     

Determined, I returned to the village and entered Egon Ronay pub and restaurant - Mary Anne's. I purchased a couple of sodas and the ladies visited the rest rooms, while I chatted with the barman about my dilemma. He said that he knew EXACTLY where I was referring to; that it WAS, indeed, the correct place and that it would be FINE to go ahead and park there! He then rather sheepishly admitted that he had always MEANT to visit Knockdrum, but had just never found the time!!!   

Somewhat assuaged, we returned to the pull-off, only to discover that the gate was now WIDE OPEN! Perhaps the barman had telephoned ahead, or the farmer had spotted our confused, tentative start-and-stops??? In any event, my wife remained with the car, should it need to be moved and SIL and I trekked up the path (Laneway) to search out the ring fort. We turned of the pathway and climbed directly up the steep hill -- dodging stones, cow pies and bushes -- until we reached the top. From there, we had magnificent views of the coast to the South East. Behind us, on another hill across the road, to the North, were the Three Fingers -- tall, thin remainders (there were originally FIVE) of a stone row, or alignment dating from Neolithic times. To the West, across along field that sloped uphill, stood a long, dry-stone wall along the ridgeline. Surely, I thought, that must be the elusive ring fort?          

It was -- and it was NOT! What it was, was an OUTER wall, of a multi-vallated stone fort.

A little history -- and general information on Ring Forts:

From Wikipedia : In Irish language sources they are known by a number of names: ráth (anglicized rath), lios (anglicized lis; cognate with Cornish lis, "court"), caiseal (anglicized cashel), cathair (anglicized caher or cahir; cognate with Welsh caer, Breton ker) and dún (anglicized dun or doon; cognate with Cornish din).[2][3] The ráth and lios was an earthen ringfort; the ráth being the enclosing bank and the lios being the open space within.[2][3] The caiseal and cathair was a stone ring fort.[2][3] The term dún was usually used for any stronghold of importance, which may or may not be ring-shaped.[2]

MORE:

A Stone fort or ringfort is an early medieval farmstead enclosed by a roughly circular drystone wall or earthen bank. Sometimes more than one bank or wall is present, giving rise to the labels uni-vallate, bi-vallate and tri-vallate (denoting one bank or wall; two Banks or walls etc). Though the name includes the element "fort", these dwelling-places were not designed for defence: rather the role of the bank or wall was to give shelter and security to the family, its livestock and their possessions. The scale and complexity of the bank(s) or wall(s) may also have served as an indicator of the occupier´s status, much in the same way as the size of one´s front garden is an index of wealth in our own society.

In ringforts, the space enclosed by the bank or wall ranges from 20m to 60m (60-100 ft). Today, all that is generally visible at ringforts are the enclosing banks or walls: the original houses and outbuildings in the interior were most built of perishable materials (wood, wattle, straw). However, there is generally an entrance gap (usually on eastern side), and occasionally, as at Caherconnell, the remains of buildings and/or souterrains (subterranean refuges) are visible in the interior.

The ringfort is the most common field monument in the island of Ireland. A recent count by Matthew Stout calculated that there are at least 45,000 examples. Their distribution is widespread, generally preferring well-drained lowland locations and avoiding peatlands and uplands. In the western parts of Ireland, where stony soils and rock outcrops are plentiful, large numbers of ringforts were built of stone (Stone Fort) (hence "caher") rather than earth (hence "rath").

Only about 250 Irish ringforts have so far been subjected to archaeological excavation, among them the Stone fort shown below at Cahercommaun in the burren. The radiocarbon determinations from these excavations are remarkably consistent, indicating that the main period of ringfort construction and use was from AD c.500 to c.1000. However, as the majority of the ringforts excavated to date are from eastern parts of Ireland, these dates may not represent a complete picture. Structural and documentary evidence from the west of Ireland suggest that ringfort occupation if not construction continued well into late medieval times (13th -15th C.) in places like the Burren.

Once we reached the wall, THAT observation became more readily apparent -- for beyond us, upon the previously obscured high point of the hill, lay the central edifice of Knockdrum! Following the wall Northward (downhill) we encountered an electrified fence and an intersecting stone wall -- beyond which, existed a steep, modern-looking set of steps. After negotiating those obstacles, we followed the steps up, and finally approached the entrance.

It truly IS a sight to behold. While not structurally as impressive as the massive structures such as Grianne of Alliach in Donegal, Staige Fort in Kerry, or even, Caherconnell, in the burren, perhaps -- the construction viewed from atop the hill, IS truly amazing. Dunno if they located the fort to take advantage of the naturally-occurring ridges and swales, or, if they actually CONSTRUCTED some, or all of them. In EITHER case, the sitting is a masterful piece of engineering. Ill let the web site and the pictures fill you in on the details, though.

Also from the top, we could plainly see and understand the MUCH easier (and direct route), which we had blindly ignored. Returning to the steps, we followed them down to the end and then followed the narrow, relatively flat path to the East -- which gradually widened, until it became the Laneway from which we had started! We had merely turned up, WAY too soon! To give you an idea, my SIL and I had spent about an hour on our excursion. Upon our return, she insisted that my wife go for a look and I waited at the car while they did so. They were back, after only about 30 minutes -- having taken the easier, more direct route, in BOTH directions.

We did NOT visit the Three Fingers -- the field between us and them was heavily populated by cows and the print out that I had brought along cautioned that rather Frisky bullocks were often present -- so we opted to enjoy them -- from afar

It was now about 3:30, or thereabout, so we opted to return to Midelton. I decided to follow the N71 back, rather than retrace our route, to let my SIL enjoy the semi-coastal drive -- including the one lane bridge between Glandore and Union Hall, and the swans along the bay at Rosscarbery, although time being an element we skipped Drombeg and a few other favored spots ...

After a brief stop into the Paddocks, we returned to the Brides Parents house for our FINAL Wedding Get-Together -- a MUCH smaller affair consisting of perhaps 15-20 people. It was an opportunity to unwind, to REALLY visit with mostly family. As such, it is the type of visit that we tend to cherish the most -- Catching Up . After making plans for some impromptu meet-ups, the following week, we reluctantly departed about 11:30 PM, as we had to get back to the Paddocks, to Pack Up. The plan was to head to Dublin in the AM (we had decided that we needed to leave by 7:30 -- at the LATEST), so I wanted to have the BULK of the packing done, before bed. My head hit the pillow, about 1:30 AM!

Ah, Sleep -- Sweet, Wonderful, Sleep I remember you well -- as if, from a dream !

More To Come:

Bob

Monday, 23 April:

We rose about 6:00 AM. It was cold, dark and drizzly / misty. I had purchased train tickets for our trip to Dublin, online, at 10 Euro each, for pick up at the Mallow Station. We could have departed from Midelton, but the connection time at Cork Kent seemed a bit excessive and I really didnt want to park a luggage-loaded rental car overnight, at Cork Kent. Besides, upon our return from Dublin, my wife and I had an apartment booked for four nights, in Killarney. So, after breakfast, showers and last minute packing and clean up, we headed out about 7:40. We followed the N25 into the Dunkettle Roundabout, where we headed into Cork city on the N8. Unlike previous trips, I managed NOT to miss the North Ring turnoff -- so we actually avoided the Grand, Downtown Tour -- and connected with the N20 on the North edge of the city. It was at about that point, that the early morning mist / rain burned away. 

We arrived at the Mallow train station about 9:15. I retrieved our tickets from the kiosk machine by entering our Reservation number. I had pre-purchased them, on-line, as early as possible (28 days prior) for 10 Euro each. There is also a 2 or 3 Euro, Handling Fee, but it is per transaction, NOT per ticket. The train station had a few vending machines, a small shop and a decent sized, heated waiting room. There are two track landings at Mallow and the are connected by a raised pedestrian bridge, but there are elevators at either side of the elevated cross-over that are handy for those with large, or heavy, luggage, or for those that might have difficulty with stairs.

Our train departed promptly at 9:55 and made minimal stops. The skies were cold and gray in Mallow, but grew gradually clearer as we moved east-ward along our route. We arrived at Dublin Heuston nearly Dead-On our scheduled, 12:20.

Exiting the station through the Main, North exit finds you facing the main, Bus and Luas To the left is a bridge that crosses the Liffy and 100 yards or so to the right after crossing, is the

Aisling Hotel. I had booked us into a large Triple room, pre-paid, for 103.5 Euro, room only (No Breakfast). I had intended to drop off our luggage and move on, but our room was ready, so we settled in and THEN headed out.

Just East of the Aisling, about equal distance to Heuston Station, is the Luas Stop for Collins Barracks and Croppies Acre. From that stop, we rode the Luas to Abbey Street and proceeded to walk, from there. We walked down OConnell Street and re-crossed the Liffy. We ate lunch at a pleasant, but unremarkable café (the name of which escapes me) and then meandered down Grafton, into Saint Stephens Green, exiting via the East Side Gate near the statue to Lord Ardilaun . From there, we wandered along back streets to Saint Patricks Cathedral and down, from there, to Christchurch, where we once again came across a large contingent of French students that were no more polite than those we encountered earlier in our trip     

From there, Temple Bar beckoned -- and we visited MOST of the Usual Suspects      -- The Temple Bar, Oliver St John Gogartys , The Auld Dubliner and one or two others. A couple of places had live music, so we lingered at those, until the sets ended. SIL soon discovered that finely poured Guinness and Touristy bars are mutually exclusive concepts -- but she had Great Fun in the lesson!

With evening upon us, I led our little troop onto Wellington Quay and headed West, to the Brazen Head. We lingered there for close to an hour, chatting with some Yanks at a nearby table and then re-crossed the Liffy to walk into Smithfield. It was too late for the tour and we were a bit Pubbed-Out, which is a pity, because I had really wanted to visit the Cobblestone -- but, that will need to wait for another day  

We reboarded the Luas and returned to Collins barracks and walked back to the Aisling, with dusk approaching. We had dinner in the bar -- finishing about 10 PM, as SIL struck up a conversation with a couple from Australia that were sitting nearby. Then, it was upstairs, to allow SIL to repack and organize for her early departure.

Tuesday, 24 April:

SILs return flight was for 9 AM. We rose EARLY and walked to Heuston Station, where the three of us caught the 6:30 747 Airlink Bus to the Airport. The Route offers an excellent Mini-Tour of Dublin (but without the snappy banter of the Hop-On/Hop-Off ), as it meanders out to the Port and then to the Airport. It was a pleasant ride -- until we entered the Port Tunnel    

I should explain -- My wife is NOT a Happy Traveler -- which, I realize sounds rather strange, given our 15 visits to Ireland -- but, she gets antsy in a car, whenever traffic is heavy. She is exceedingly uncomfortable on planes, particularly during take offs and landings and she gets quite panicky, in the event of encountering turbulence.   

BUT She is TERRIFIED by tunnels!      It is the sad reason why I shall probably NEVER take the Chunnel Train -- even though my wife ADORES train travel!

The Dublin Port Tunnel is QUITE long. It is also rather Heavily Traveled (See #1, above). What made the Tunnel traverse worse, though, was the Certain Knowledge -- that she and I would need RETURN, via that self-same Tunnel -- once SIL had been dispatched!   

Once at the Airport, the lines were relatively short and moved quickly. SIL was processed we escorted her to Security, where we parted ways, after much hugging and thanks and laughter. SIL headed on her way and my wife and I reboarded the Airlink, for our return to Heuston Station and the hotel. I managed to distract her with conversation, long enough to minimize her Tunnel Moment, so our return trip went relatively smoothly.

Upon our return to the Aisling, about 8:30, we purchased breakfasts and then returned to our room. My wife took a brief nap (about an hour), while I set out to wander, as our Return train reservation wasnt until Noon. We checked out, just about 11 and eased over to Heuston, did a bit of shopping in one of the shops and then boarded, for our return to Mallow. We quickly discovered that our Rain Deflecting Magic actually belonged to SIL!    

More To Come HONEST!

Michele -- We REALLY enjoyed the Aisling, as its location was perfect for our plans, by being SO close to Heuston Station AND the Luas.  I'm told that the area can be a bit "dodgy" during the 'Wee Hours', so it might not suit everone.  Hotel has been recently redone and everything was clean, comfy and seemed very well run.

For those really BRAVE Souls, they also have an attatched Parking Garage!

Bob