Ok, my first post - rough itinerary for my husband and myself for May 2008, I've been there once, this will be his first trip, we know it's a lot of driving (we are hyper people and usually don't stay in one place very long anyway!), my plan was to show him a general overview of the country so we'll have to go back often to visit our favorite places...We are looking for fabulous scenery and also the best pubs in our overnight stops!
-Arrive Dublin airport in am, pick up car, drive to Newgrange area B&B (suggestions?), explore Newgrange and Hill of Tara, head to B&B and get rest.
-Drive to Donegal, can't seem to make up mind about an in-town B&B - suggestions? See Donegal Castle, do waterbus tour, hang out in town spend night, next day drive west and north until our hearts content, loop around through Ardara and overnight on Donegal again
-Head to Westport, hang out in town, hope for good weather for next day overnight, next day drive up to Achill - or ferry to Clare Island - or just see where the road takes us, overnight again in Westport
-Head to Clare - have 2 nights planned in Clare to explore Burren, Cliffs, Doolin, would like to stay in Ennis OR along coast (Lahinch, Miltown Malbay), somewhere we can walk to dinner/pubs at night with variety
- Head to Dingle, overnight in Dingle
- Dingle to Bantry - probably skipping over the ROK, Bantry overnight
-Bantry to Kinsale - mostly scenery day - Overnight 2 nights in Kinsale, check out town, Cobh and area, Jameson Distillery
-Drop car and take bus to Dublin city centre for 2 nights (1 full day of hop on/hop off tour) before departing :(
I know you'll get great advice from Michele. You came to the right place. I've only been 8 times so this isn't expert advice. I've spent a lot of time in County Clare. I love it there. One of my trips was three weeks in just County Clare. That said, for your trip I think I'd spend just one night and have a least 2 nights in Dingle. Lahinch would be a very good overnight for you as it's close to The Cliffs and has a nice little sea front. On your way to Lahinch you'd see part of The Burren. Others like Doolin, I've never stayed. I have twice in Lisdoonvarna.
Just a thought... Donegal Town is at least 4 hours drive from Dublin.... That is what the bus takes and it flies! Waterbus is tide dependent and so we never know until the day before what time it is sailing. Sometimes once a day; sometimes twice.. certainly will add interest to your plans.. Blessings
It doesn't look half bad for a first attempt at an itinerary. I will add my day-by-day suggestions below:
Arrive Dublin airport in am, pick up car, drive to Newgrange area B&B (suggestions?), explore Newgrange and Hill of Tara, head to B&B and get rest. * Newgrange will easily take half a day or more if you want to see everything including Newgrange, Knowth and the visitor's center.
-Drive to Donegal, can't seem to make up mind about an in-town B&B - suggestions? See Donegal Castle, do waterbus tour, hang out in town spend night, next day drive west and north until our hearts content, loop around through Ardara and overnight on Donegal again * Fine. I stayed at Donegal Manor in the spring and can't say enough good things about it. Sian and Michael are fabulous hosts, rooms are clean, spacious and have everything you need, breakfast wonderful.
-Head to Westport, hang out in town, hope for good weather for next day overnight, next day drive up to Achill - or ferry to Clare Island - or just see where the road takes us, overnight again in Westport * Fine.
-Head to Clare - have 2 nights planned in Clare to explore Burren, Cliffs, Doolin, would like to stay in Ennis OR along coast (Lahinch, Miltown Malbay), somewhere we can walk to dinner/pubs at night with variety * This is where you might consider some changes. It would be a pity to drive south to Clare without spending a day seeing Connemara. Unless you are planning a walking tour of the Burren or something else special like that, you will be able to see the area mentioned in one day.
- Head to Dingle, overnight in Dingle * This is one of Ireland's most beautiful peninsulas. Many people would prefer two nights there to savor it and also to do Slea Head Drive.
- Dingle to Bantry - probably skipping over the ROK, Bantry overnight * While Bantry is fine, you are skipping over some very scenic portions of Ireland - around Killarney (lakes, mountains, national park, etc.) and Kenmare (my all-time favorite small town in Ireland). Although your next two nights in Kinsale are fine, there is just so much more to see and do in the Killarney/Kenmare areas.
-Bantry to Kinsale - mostly scenery day - Overnight 2 nights in Kinsale, check out town, Cobh and area, Jameson Distillery * See comments above.
-Drop car and take bus to Dublin city centre for 2 nights (1 full day of hop on/hop off tour) before departing * Fine.
Some things to keep in mind for May:
Bank Holiday at beginning of month (see my website for a list of them) Do not go near Kinsale on a weekend (Fri, Sat, Sun). You have been warned! Driving takes a lot longer than you think. 35 mph is the average.
I do believe our time in Kinsale falls in the middle of the week (either Tues-Wed, or Wed-Thurs) so this should work out fine, whew! Got lucky on that one.
Will check out Donegal Manor - my concern is walking distance to town. I fell in love with a little pub there called The Forge and know I need to go back and spend quite a while there on this trip. I don't really want to drive the dark and windy roads back to a country inn.
I agree that I don't want to skip over Connemara, as it is amazing country...I thought we could tuck that into our stay in Westport, but am now wondering if we should keep the 2 nights in Westport, then wander around Connemara region for an entire day, stopping Galway for the night (I loved Galway when I was there), then stay just 1 night in Co. Clare. Hmmm....
As for the skipping over Killarney/ROK area, it is beautiful, however I think 250 of my 300 pictures from last trip were of that area, hubby feels as if he's seen it already! The Beara peninsula, Mizen Head, etc. has captured all his attention and that is the reason for throwing Bantry into the mix as the stopover from Dingle to Kinsale.
I appreciate that no one has said the usual "YOU'RE NUTS" after checking out our itinerary. What is nuts, anyway? This is Ireland we're talking about, we're all allowed to go a little nuts over it!
Your last post makes things much clearer! You have already been to the SW, which is why you are skipping it. Now it makes sense. If you have already seen Connemara, then stick to what you have. Achill Island in good weather is spectacular. You can read about a little hideaway there: The Bervie.
Donegal Manor is right outside the town (maybe half a mile, if that) on the main road (no way to get lost). Since it is off a busy road I would not suggest walking to town on that road especially at night. I do not have a B&B recommendation right in town.
Oh, there are plenty of people who we tell more diplomatically that they are nuts. But it is only to try and help them have a better trip.
Glad to hear Kinsale is mid-week. It is a zoo on weekends.
We are all nuts! But the best possible kind, and Michele is our NutMistress. OK, I'm going to go sort through my packing again. Only 9 days to go. I am feeling nuts.
Dude, do you have room to pack me??? I'll try to fold up as small as I possibly can!
Michelle - I've stayed at the Mill Park in Donegal, which I thought was a perfect walking distance from the town center. I'll map Donegal Manor and compare the distances. Would stay in the Mill Park again, but want to do country homes/B&Bs this time around. There just doesn't seem to be too much up there.
We are looking for suggestions for our last two nights in Dublin. Won't have the car anymore, so want to be in the city, close to a good hop on/hop off bus stop, want to stay somewhere nice w/o totally breaking the bank, understanding we'll be paying around $300/night.
There are abundant B and Bs in and near Donegal Town; just that few register. The lanes and roads are littered with signs! Maybe they all do very well without advertising.. We found this when we were looking for somewhere for a visitor. And found an excellent family farm place just by following the signs and checking. Hard when you are not here, I know.
KelliJo, come on, but you'll have to share a suitcase with Bit. And she asked first, so gets priority on "seating! "
All my other bags will be stuffed with yarn for Anchoress; my husband came home today from the thrift shop where he volunteers with a box of bits and bobs of yarn of all colors and weights. I will definitely be traveling Cargo Class. My sisters say they will meet me at the belly of the plane in Shannon! I may need a bigger rental car if this keeps up!
I can recommend several nice B&Bs in Donegal, however they do not meet your requirements of being in walking distance of town. Good luck with your search.
Well, it' almost surreal that I now find myself in a position to actually make recommendations to folks who are traveling to Ireland. Seems like yesterday Iw as planning my first trip.....
Donegal Manor (as already recommended by Michele) is a perfect choice. We were treated like family while there, and I cannot say enough good things about it. I am planning a return to the area, and I would not think of staying anywhere else.
Sorry, I did not read all the way down bfore replying. Donegal Manor is not right in town, but it is a really straight shot into town from there. Not far, but as Michele warned, the road it's on is quite busy.
I must check out the Forge when I go back....not soon enough.
Marie, YES, do check out the Forge!! I loved it there, possibly because it was our third pub of the evening - averaging 2 pints per pub - hiccup - you get the idea. But it was a great place, it was almost closing time, I wandered in with my mother, and our tour guide. The only other people in the place were a group of cousins who were "mourning" the loss of their uncle, funeral was earlier that day - soon I found out it was their "rich uncle", so it maybe was more of a celebratory drink?? (their words, not mine...) The pub was set up where it had the little room off the front left that used to be where the ladies would drink, while the men went into the main bar area - I know there is a name for the little room for the ladies, but I can't remember.
Anyway (maybe I should post this in the trip reviews? lol...), after a few trips to the toilet (still can't get over calling it the toilet) in the back of the bar, I ended up in conversation with the group of cousins, my mother and the guide decided to head back to the hotel with another group who had stopped to check in, the cousins had JUST bought me a Jameson and white lemonade, so I couldn't quite leave at that moment, I assured them I was fine there and would wander back on my own (the female cousin swearing she'd keep an eye on me, but I was 29 for crying out loud!!). Meantime of course it's POURING outside, it's after 11:30pm, I'm locked in with the "mourning/celebrating" cousins and they all decide to sing, some hilarious, some sorrowful songs, and when it came my turn to sing (GULP!), I could think of nothing - just then the phone rings, frightening all of us, including Joe, the owner, who answered the phone with the funniest inquisitive face, he looks at me in shock, saying "it's for you"....Here I am, in a little pub in Donegal, thousands of miles from home and I'm getting a phone call???? Turns out it was our guide/driver, who got back to the hotel and was worried about me making it back in the rain by myself, and although I insisted, he came to get me anyway and we had a great walk back to the Mill Park in the DRIVING rain, his umbrella a nice thought, but entirely unhelpful. We were soaked and it was pretty much my best memory from the entire trip. I wll never forget the look on their faces when the phone rang and it was for me. And, of course, this shows the caring nature of the people, that our guide, who had met me the day before, would call to check on me, then come down in the pouring rain to walk me back safely. Just one example in many of going above and beyond.
Wow, I'm rambling. Sorry!
I do have a serious concern which I am losing sleep over, so I need some opinions/support here - in going over our itinerary again, I realize I have only 1 night in Dingle and 1 night in Kinsale, I can sacrifice a night in Co. Clare to add to Dingle, but I really really really want to stay 2 nights in Kinsale.
Question: How bad of a drive is it, on a Thursday, to drive from Kinsale up to drop car at Dublin airport and then bus to hotel in city centre?
Now, that leads me to dilemma #2, in order to spend more time in Dingle and Kinsale, I'm thinking of cutting Donegal altogether. I had 2 nights in Donegal, mainly to see the Slieve League cliffs and revisit the Forge. But to break down our time in Donegal - the first afternoon, we'd be arriving probably mid-afternoon, so wouldn't be able to do the drive out to Glencolumcille, that drive would be done the next day, with a second night in Donegal, wake up the next morning and head to Westport...
Now I'm wondering, should we just cut Donegal altogether, and go with the following:
Day 1: Arrive Dublin airport 9:30am, pick up car, head to Newgrange/Knowth - am concerned about not getting there in time to do tour, so am looking into alternatives to explore in the area, am finding quite a few that sound just as good! Spend night in Kells?
Day 2 & 3: Drive to Westport, spend two nights
Day 4: Take time through Connemara, making it to Galway for one night
Day 5: Burren, Cliffs, MUST drive hubby by Lahinch golf course!! Stay somewhere in Clare, undecided where, one night
Day 6 & 7: Dingle and all it's glory. Read somewhere about a man who does a wonderful tour - Tom Collins? Tim Collins? Would be nice to take a day off from driving ourselves and see things we might not find on our own. Spend 2 nights in Dingle.
Day 8: Dingle to Bantry, let weather dictate where all we stop along the way. One night in Bantry.
Day 9 & 10: Kinsale, with trips to Cobh, Old Middleton Distillery, time to explore Kinsale by bike and foot. Two nights in Kinsale.
Day 11: Kinsale to Wicklow area, Glendalough, spend night in area - is there a castle/hotel in this area (besides Waterford)?
Day 12 & 13: Drop car and head to Dublin city centre by public transport, spend night, following day will be one full day in Dublin to do hop on/hop off tours, spend final night and depart following morning.
Yes, it breaks my heart to leave Donegal off, but I am willing to do so IF you all can guarantee me that the scenery I've heard so much about down at Mizen Head, Beara Peninsula is just as amazing...and would leave me feeling ok that we cut Donegal & NW to spend more time in the SW.