Michelle, I'm reading through your book with a highlighter marking a lot of helpful information like taking the Ring of Kerry clockwise! I was delighted with your description of The Shores Country House at Castlegregory, as we just received confirmation for a 1-night stay there after 2 nights at Loch Lein before going on to our self-catering cottage. On page 50 there is info about a coupon package you offer for $11.95. I haven't been able to locate that on your page. Is it still available? Also, since we will be staying near the coast in county Clare we would like to spend at least 1 day on one of the Aran Islands. Do you (or anyone else) have a favorite? Is it possible to "island hop?" Thank you again!
You will take the Ferry from Doolin to Inis Mor, the largest of the three islands. The ferry docks at Inis Oirr and you have the option of staying there and catching the next ferry on to Inis Mor.
Inis Mor is the big draw for tourists. There is so much to see on Inis Mor. Dún Aonghasa is the biggest draw. I more enjoy Dún Dúchathair, the Black fort, as it is less traveled and less commercially developed. Dún Eoghanachta, located south of the main road near Sruthán, is also less visited. It has remnants of Beehive huts. There is also Seven Churches, Na Seacht dTeampaill, which is an ancient monastic site not far from Dún Aonghasa. You can rent bicyles from one of the shops near the pier, take one of the van tours, Festus O'Flaherty runs the best one, in my opinion or hire a pony cart and ask them to see all the sites. We have hired one for the day for 100 euro total, about 8 hours, and been given the grand tour. If you want a good bite to eat, there is an excellent fish place across the road from the American Bar in KIlronan, the harbour village, Pier House is also excellent. The American Bar offers American type food at outrageous prices. Don't eat there, if you can avoid it.
Inis Oirr is more sparse yet very beautiful in its own right. Because it is the smallest of the islands, it is less visited and that means that the locals are left to continue on in their traditional manner. You can hire a Pony cart there, as well. It is, again, an excellent way to see the sites on the island whilst getting a good bit of history and wit from one of the locals. Áras Éanna is the Arts center. It is a converted weaving factory built in 1982. There is a Craft shop and a Heritage center located within the larger Arts Centre. Among the sites to be enjoyed on Inis Oirr are Teampall Chaomhan, Loch Mor, The Plassy Wreck, Caislean Ui Bhrain and Cill Ghobnait.
You could quite easily fill two days. taking an early Ferry from Doolin, spending the morning on Inis Oirr and then taking the last Ferry to Inis Mor. You could then overnight on Inis Mor, take in some Trad music at Tigh Joe Watty's Pub, see the sites on Inis Mor the next morning and catch a mid afternoon ferry back to the main land. Kelly House is a delightfull B&B just up the lane from Joe Watty's.
I know that you are self catering during that time. I often do overnights when I am self catering. It gives me more time to explore a particular area.
Bit has filled you in on the Aran Islands. Unfortunately the coupon pack is no longer available. Sorry. It has been removed from my website.
You are in for a treat at The Shores. If Annette is doing dinner reserve that. You will not regret it. She is a gourmet cook. Tell her I send my regards.
Thanks Bit for the information. It's great being able to hear from travelers who have been there and know the ropes! I think you mentioned just 2 of the islands... is the 3rd not worth taking in? I'm going to print off the info you gave me and take with me to Ireland so I can take your advice on things to see, restaurants, etc.
Michele... I'm really excited about spending the night at The Shores. I think your name really does work magic. I sent several emails and finally got one back saying there were 2 rooms available. I quickly sent my credit card info and heard nothing back to confirm even after 2 emails (I'm finding this to be true of most places I've emailed over there). Now, it may be just coincidence, but in the last e-mail I sent I mentioned that I wanted to be sure she got the card info as we were really looking foward to our stay, especially after having read a delightful review in Michele Erdvig's book.... I got my confirmation back within 12 hours! I will indeed give her your regards when we are there!
Inis Meáin is the least developed of the Islands. I have ventured over there via fishing boat from Inis Mor. It is very much a step back in time, with its thatched roofs and stone cottages. The main industries there are fishing and wool. Aran Jumpers are made there and shipped world wide. Dun Conchubhuir,an ancient oval stone fort, is the biggest draw there. It is the largets of the stone forts for all three islands. There is also the ancient Kilcanonagh Church, the 15th century Templemurray and the fragments of Templeshaghtmacree, or the church of the King's seven sons. If you are a backyard botanist, there are over 300 species of flowering plants on the island. Among them are orchids and honeysuckle. As well, there are many nesting birds on the island. There are very few B&Bs on the island, considering its size that isn't surprising.
I think that you have to arrange special transport from the Doolin Ferries, as I have not routinely seen a ferry traveling there. I believe there is also availability of a plane to the island but that can only be arranged from out of Galway.
Michele is Magic in Ireland, to be sure. She is like a talisman to many.
In '97 we arrived in Doolin on our first day in country right after lunch, just in time to catch the "Happy Hooker" which took us to Inisheer (Inis Óirr). We spent the afternoon wandering about, had dessert and drinks at a cottage restaurant and then cooled our feet in the Atlantic while waiting for the boat to return for us. One of the worst sunburns I have ever had! Imagine that in Ireland! The "captain" of the hooker proposed marriage to my daughter; fortunately she was already married so had to decline. I suspect it was a set piece for the tourists and she just happened to be in the right place at the right time, or wrong place at the wrong time, depending on your outlook.