Hey - I know this is really long, but I hope it is helpful to anyone planning a trip to Skellig Michael.  Pictures can be seen at www.fuzzytravel.com/luckygreen/

            We actually had to set the alarm today to ensure wed be up and out the door before 7:30 a.m.  We were going to Skellig Michael.  Our first task was to apply motion sickness patches behind our ears for the sea trip wed be taking.

            I have been fascinated with Skellig Michael since I first saw pictures of its jutting peaks rising up out of the ocean.  The aerial view I recalled featured the remains of an ancient monastery at the top of the peak.  The monastery is roughly 700 feet up the pinnacle and is reached only climbing over 600 slate steps that were installed over 1,000 years ago.  There are 15 boats licensed to carry visitors to Skellig Michael and each boat only holds 12 people.  The trips can only go out when weather permits; for instance, the day before there was no trips because it was too windy.  I was anxious wondering if the weather would hold for us this morning.

            We had to forgo our delicious breakfast but did manage to make a quick cup of coffee in the room before departing.  We traveled N86 until we reached Anascual where we took the $561 to Castlemaine.  There was hardly any traffic this early in the day and the scenery was lovely.  We pass by the huge beach at Inch and on to where we met up with N70 that took us almost the rest of the way to Portmagee.  We arrived at the harbor in about one hour and forty-five minutes.  That was good time with no major obstruction on the way.

            We werent quite sure we were in the right place because the dock seemed pretty small and there were no loud signs screaming Tourist!  This way to Skellig Michael!  We did wander up to one boat and enquired where we might find the Ken and Joe Roddy boats.  We picked the right boats and were advised that we had only about 15 minutes before theyd begin boarding.

            As previously stated, these boats are actually fishing boats that are used to haul a small group (12) of people to the site.  After wed all loaded, Captain Roddy shared laminated pictures of himself and his many accomplishments with everyone.  I had read about him on the website but had totally forgotten.  He was one of the first surfers in Ireland, and also talent gymnast and spear fisherman.  His newest adventure is ballroom dancing that he took up just a short time ago with great success.  Hes now winning prizes at dance contests and Id easily wager that this guy is in his mid-to-late 70s.  He was quite a character.

            The trip out was quite the experience.  I had never been out in the ocean where there is no shore visible.  The movement of the waves from our low vantage point was exhilarating to say the least.  Before we arrived to our destination, two of the young men in the back of the boat were losing their breakfast.  Capt. Roddy had provided folks up front with some rainproof gear (we had brought our own and then forgotten them at the guesthouse).  I figured that my earlier love of death defying stunts; first roller-coasters, then horseback riding, sky-diving, a teeny little bit of rock climbing, glacier treks, and raising two sons; had prepared me for the rocking, dippy, and surging of this little boat.  I was having a riot.  Occasionally the boat would catch a swell just right and a light spray of salt water would land on my face.  Remember catching snowflakes on your tongue?  I was catching salt water.             

We caught view of the Little Skellig through the mist to our left and were craning to catch site of Skellig Michael when I happened to look straight ahead through the captains window and there it was looming right before us.  Anyone making this trip needs to understand that it aint for sissies!  Captain Roddy pulled the boat up near to the dock but it heaved and moved about while he tried to secure it with the ropes.  You really only have a few moments to time your departure between the heaving of the boat.  There are steps with a handrail and I would shudder to think what would happen if you didnt make the steps.  Id have to think youd be squished against the cement dock by the boat.  We all make it this time around however.           

            The next point on which to be entirely certain; is whether or not you can climb up over 600 slate steps; very uneven and sometimes steep; that often seem to barely cling to the side of the slope.  Actually, we didnt even get to the steps until wed traversed a lengthy incline of a trail first.  All around us were puffins.  I think puffins are the cutest thing in the world so I was already delighted.  We were there during their nesting season.  Puffins nest in holes in the ground and under rock shelves.  In fact, at one point a puffin flew out from under the step as I was about to set my foot down and nearly scared the crap out of me.  They really are all over the place and not very disturbed by the humans hanging around.  After a little while of climbing and stopping, and picture taking and resting; I realized that puffins were growling at us.  At first blush you might think you were hearing a chainsaw from somewhere not too far removed.  We did figure out that it was puffins growling probably to warn us away from their nests.   

            It is a long, arduous pilgrimage to the top of Skellig Michael.  Somehow, out of the 150 people who could visit this site today, we were the first boat to arrive.  When we finally reached the monastery we had the place to ourselves; almost.  There are three people who live on the rock during the summer.  They spend two weeks on and then a week off.  When we arrived to the top, Kathleen was waiting for us.  She was standing in the way of a great photo actually and I was a little annoyed.  Later, when she began informing us more about the place I completely got over it.

            Skellig Michael was begun sometime in the sixth century.  Monks seeking solitude could surely find it here.  The island is miles away from shore and there is now a pier, but one can only imagine how difficult it would have been to dock there previously.  The monks apparently were quite self sufficient.  Its believed that there were probably sheep kept on the island.  We saw rabbits as well.  There was an area in the enclosure that was likely used as a garden plot as well.  There are really no good records of the place but seeing is believing.  The beehive huts were much larger than the ones we could have viewed on the Slea Head drive.  One seemed to have intentional vents and probably could have slept 10 people.  The monks also devised a way to catch water from the rains and there are two cisterns that are still functioning right among the beehive huts.  A small cemetery with crude markers exists as well.  I marveled at our good fortune to have a few quiet moments here before more folks arrived.

            The trip down was a bit precarious because we met people also climbing up.  We thought the steps wide enough for one but when negotiating for others to pass; they did not seem quite as reassuring.  We met folks who were catching their breath and very anxious to know the age old question, How many more miles?  Okay, a variation of that question anyway.  We always assured them that their efforts would be worth it.  We also met people with small children heading up.  One child, who looked to be maybe 3 or 4 years old, was dressed in a shirt that came almost down to his ankles.  How could a little person like that not trip on the shirt while attempting that many steps?  I couldnt help myself and said, Good luck with that one.

            He wanted to do it, was the reply.  So did you put a pony under the Christmas tree too?  I didnt say that but I did think it.   

            Six hundred steps are not much easier to take going down.  My knees were shaking so badly I was remotely concerned one of them might just chose this place to break down.  Bill sat and rested for a little while with disastrous consequences.  More on that later

            When we finally reached the end of the stairs we encountered Kathleen pushing a wheelbarrow toward the pier.  She was supposed to have begun her week off the island the previous day but the weather held her hostage there.  Bill gallantly took the wheelbarrow and we continued our decent down the slope.  About 30 yards from the pier I realized our captain was already loading the boat so we had to scoot to scramble on board.  Again theres a bit of tension as Captain Roddy demands your complete attention and swift action while boarding.  There were no rain suits passed out for the trip back.  I guess its your tough luck if you get wet.  Upon leaving the small inlet, one of the lads (five were there together) made the pronouncement that Bill had sat in bird ****.  Indeed.  When Bill stood up, his whole right buttcheek was covered in white and green puffin poop.  I had stepped in it earlier; now Bill had sat in it.  I really dont know how one guy could have sat in that much poop.  It was quite remarkable.

            When we got back to Portmagee we grabbed a small bite to eat at The Bridge pub.  As I was finishing my soup, a man came up behind me and took one of my hands in his.  It was Capt. Roddy.  He proceeded to ask for the other hand so he could show me how hands are held and attitudes acquired for the tango.  Yes, really.  We visited with him for a while and I even pointed out an advertisement about a dance contest that he hadnt noticed yet.  He explained something about not dancing with amateurs but sometimes giving them pointers.  I could believe that somehow.

            We had intended to squeeze in a bit more of The Ring of Kerry Drive but I think perhaps the patches behind our ears had given us a case of the drowsies.  Instead we did complete the Skellig loop and headed back toward Dingle.  We stopped at The South Pole pub in Anascaul.  Tom Crean owned the pub at one time and is featured in the book The Unusual Hero.  There is much memorabilia of his trip to Antarctica on the walls and it was a pleasant pub to visit.

            We arrived back in Dingle on a mission to find a functioning ATM.  With this weekend being a bank holiday weekend in Ireland, the ATMs in gas stations and grocery stores were already drained.  We needed to have enough cash to pay the B&B and I was able to grab a little more.  One fellow suggested that we get all we could because it might be Tuesday before cash was readily available. Of course, we leave Tuesday.

            We had discussed going out to the pubs.  It would have been a great night for good craic Im sure.  Wed also discussed getting dinner.  In the end, we decided we would not be missing anything and that wed go to sleep.  It was an exhausting but fulfilling day and we didnt feel the need to push the envelope.