Just returned from a fabulous vacation in Ireland with my Dad!  I really can't wait to go back with my Wife so she can share this incredible place with me. 

2 days in Dublin: 

Stayed at the Ashling Best Western.  Nice hotel, very clean, great breakfast and very close to all forms of transportation:  Bus, train and tram.  Walking distance to Temple Bar ~15-20 mins.  Close to the zoo, Guinness storehouse and the Prison.

Historic Walking tours of Dublin is a must.

Irish House Party is a must.

On day 3 we picked up the rental car.  We had reserved an automatic but ended up getting a standard shift because so many stranded travelers (Ash Cloud) had not returned their cars.  We were really angry about it, but in hindsight it was no big deal.  I actually ended up really enjoying the standard shift.  I HIGHLY recommend the GPS and the extra insurance which provides you with a 0$ deductible for any and all damage.  We wanted to see Ireland and get off the main roads and let me tell you, we did.  I have never in my life driven on crazier roads and I grew up in Northern Vermont.  We drove on roads that would make a donkey nervous.  Inevitably, if you drive on a lot of back roads in Ireland, the left side of the car is going to get scratched up and ours surely did.  Not bad, but definitely scratched.  You have to drag the side of the car in the bushes on some of these roads when another car comes.  Many of the roads we traveled were as narrow as a golf path, but that's what we wanted to see and I'm so grateful we did.   

From Dublin we drove to Kinsale via Rock of Cashel and Blarney.  Both castles were worth visiting and yes I kissed the stone.  I also got in a lovely 45 minute run while on the Blarney Castle grounds and it was beautiful.

Kinsale was beautiful!  We stayed at Rivermount House.  Beautiful B&B, very nice room and excellent breakfast.  My only recommendation is to stay closer to town.  You don't want to have even a single drink and drive a car in Ireland, it's just not safe.  We ended up having to take a cab into town for 10$ euro ea. way.   We ate at Man Friday's and really enjoyed it.  They run a fantastic 3 course early bird from 18-19:30.  We visited several pubs and called it a night.  I would highly recommend at least 2 days for Kinsale.

Next day we drove to Beara Peninsula and did the Beara loop and numerous gaps we were told about from the locals.  The gap roads in Ireland are plentiful and breath taking.  Some are VERY demanding on you and the car.  Be prepared to back up going down very steep grades with a cliff looming over your shoulder until you can find a place to pull in for a car to pass.  The gap roads were the highlights to my trip.  Many aren't on the maps and aren't in the GPS software you get from the rental car company, so ask around, you'll be happy you did.  We drove the Beara Peninsula for almost 9 hours including stops for snacks, sightseeing and pictures!!  It was my favorite.  Watch out for baby sheep that like to stay warm on the roads.

Kenmare for the night.  Stayed at Abbey Ct. B&B.  Great house, short walk to town and wonderful breakfast.  Brendan made some great suggestions for dinner and drinks.  We ate at the Horeshoe and loved it.  Very cozy place with a great staff and the absolute BEST hot bread I had in Ireland.  Seafood chowder was also amazing!
Kenmare is certainly worth 2 nights. 

We headed out to the Ring of Kerry the next day and did some more crazy gap roads that Brendan showed us.  Some were very difficult to find, but once we did we were once again amazed by the beauty of Ireland.  Drove for about 8 hours again and ended up in Dingle that night.  

Dingle was the highlight of our trip.  We stayed two nights at the Greenmount House.  If your going to Dingle, stay here.  John and Mary and the rest of the staff were simply amazing.  The place is immaculate, the rooms are large and bright and the breakfast was to die for.  By FAR our favorite B&B of the trip.  We ate at Global Village and Out of the Blue and enjoyed both.  I would give the hands down winner to Global Village.  Make a reservation if you go there, they are always busy.  We visited many pubs in Dingle and heard some fantastic music on Sunday night at many of the pubs.  If I had to do it again, I would stay in Dingle for at least 3 nights.  We once again drove some gap roads and did the Sleah head loop.  We also chose Dingle to do our souvenier shopping and found some pretty good deals.  Make sure you walk along the coast line from the Skellig Hotel out towards the east.  It's beautiful out there as you walk along beaches, farmers fields filled with cows and along breath taking cliffs.  I did my daily runs out there each morning and evening and wish I could find somewhere near my home to motivate me like that.

We left Dingle and headed to Tarbert to grab the ferry for the drive up to the Cliffs of Moher.  Beautiful trip and a very impressive sight at the Cliffs.  I wish it wasn't so windy or we may have stayed longer.

Drove down to Limerick for the evening and headed out to Shannon airport in the morning for our early flight home.

My advice:

Talk to the locals!  They love to talk and they are so friendly.  I really enjoyed our converstations while in Ireland. 

Drive the back roads and stay off the "M" routes.  It's a beautiful country, but you have to get out and see it.

Spend more than 1 night in each town.  I really wish we had more time to spend in Kinsale and Kenmare!

Drive very cautiously, many of the locals DO NOT.  On more than one occasion my gut told me to take the next corner very slowly and thank goodness I did.  2 cars just don't fit well on these roads, so be very careful.

Get a GPS and get the extra insurance.

Eat some local seafood, it's amazing!  Eat some lamb too.

We are already planning our next trip.

Enjoy!