valhouli
Registered User
Posts: 1
(6/7/03 2:45 pm)

I had a GREAT time!

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Thank you so much, Michelle, for my personalized plan, my trip was fabulous! When I returned from Ireland a friend asked me which was my favorite place and I honestly could not pick one. Each place I stayed was delightful, clean and comfortable. I met some very interesting people, and saw wonderful sights. The food was great at each and every location. Though it rained every day I still got to do some hiking. It’s like the bartender at Durty Nellie’s said, “It’s not that the weather in Ireland is bad, it’s just that people don’t wear the right clothes!” I followed the weather reports before I left and packed for rainy weather!

The plane ride from Los Angeles to Dublin was very long, a bit over 10 hours. We had a delay at Dublin so we were a couple hours late arriving in Shannon. I had no trouble at the airport or getting the rental car. I was very nervous about driving on the left side, but by the time I got out of the airport I felt comfortable with it. I spent my first (and again my last) night at the Bunratty Lodge. I just loved it; Mary Browne was warm and friendly. She put me totally at ease. She gave me suggestions about where to go and how to get there. Her breakfast was really good. (I particularly liked the fruit and yogurt – she delivered it in a sundae glass and I felt like I was having dessert.) I didn’t get a chance to go to the castle and Folk Park upon my arrival due to the plane delay but I went to Durty Nelly’s Pub for dinner at the bar. I met some tourist from France and we had a fun time trying to converse – lots of laughter. I was pleasantly surprised at how good the food was.

After the delicious breakfast I headed to Cashel. Limerick seemed like a big city to me and the traffic was a bit intimidating so I didn’t stop. However, I did stop in Tipperary and thought it was charming. It took me a little time to get used to the traffic circle, now I am a firm believer in them. I found them to be well marked (except in Cork) and really helpful since I was driving alone. I could take my time in deciding which way I needed to go. If I wasn’t sure I just drove around the whole thing again, taking my time and looking at all the options.

I stayed at Legends in Cashel. I really liked it. My room was tiny, but after all I didn’t need much room. The view was breathtaking.

In the afternoon I drove to Cahir and saw the castle and then veered from my itinerary and drove to Ballyporeen. I had the name of a relative (by marriage) and thought I’d stop by. The village is miniscule and everyone knew each other so I had no problem finding the place. Vincent was there and very welcoming. I met the neighbors and had tea and heard stories. It was a delightful afternoon.

One of my splurges was to eat in the restaurant at the Legends. Michael the owner and chef really outdid himself. He is quite the gourmet cook. There were a number of locals that went to the restaurant to celebrate different occasions. The couple sitting next to me mentioned that it had a really good reputation in town as a “special” place to go. Rosemary, (owns it with her husband Michael) spent time with me giving me suggestions of places to eat when I get to Kenmare and Dingle. I did follow her recommendation and I’m glad I did! As I sat on my bed that night with the big curtains surrounding the picture window open I gazed upon the Rock lit up against the night sky. It is a memory I will never forget.

The weather was pretty stormy the next morning when I awoke. I had to make the hard decision on which route to take to get to Kenmare. I really wanted to go to Anne’s Grove Garden but I was warned about the road condition so I decided to head south, keep to the Main highway, and see Cork and Blarney instead. This turned out to be my driving adventure. For those of you new to Michele’s itinerary she customizes your trip to your interests and mine lie somewhere in gardens, outdoor hiking, and ancient history. I had so many options to fulfill my wants my only regret is that I didn’t have time to see it all. But once I got in Ireland I relaxed and just enjoyed everything I did get an opportunity to see. Anyway, back to my story. The drive to Cork was lovely - pastoral and green, green, green.

Then I got to Cork and the roads were under construction and not marked well. You can probably guess what I am going to say – yep, I got LOST. I ended up halfway to Bandon before I realized it. I turned around and got lost again. I stopped in a little pharmacy in Douglas and met two really nice women who spoke Irish -somehow we managed to communicate. After a delightful tea one of the women escorted me to the road to Blarney. She actually rode with me and took the bus back to her home. I dare say I can’t imagine someone doing that for me in California! I suspect I may still be driving around Cork today if they hadn’t rescued me. I stopped at Blarney, shopped a little but didn’t do any of the castle stuff (no I really didn’t want to kiss the stone). There were so many tourists. I was anxious to get to Kenmare after spending hours driving around Cork.

Kenmare is really picturesque. I stayed at the Mylestone Lodge. Another spectacular view from my bedroom window. It was so lush and I got to hike and hike and hike! I was in heaven. Kenmare, just a short walk from the B&B was so charming.

It was pretty crowded on Saturday with shoppers, but I didn’t have to park my car so I just wandered around and enjoyed it. I had the opportunity to experience the excitement of the hurling finals at the pub followed by a live Irish band. Great fun! There were ancient stone circles and wonderful hiking trails. I went to Garinish Island and saw the beautiful Ilnacullen Garden there; drove to Healy Pass and got a chance to hike through Derreen Gardens. I would recommend all these activities!
I met and chatted with people along the hiking trails. I was very impressed by all of the flowers blooming. Spring is so beautiful in Ireland, even in the rain.

Back on the road, after two days in Kenmare I headed for Dingle via Cill Airne (Killarney). I found more hiking trails in the National Forest. There are streams, lakes and waterfalls galore. I took the tour of Muckross Manor. It was definitely worth the stop!

On to Dingle and my stay at Cloosmore House. I was really in my element here. I raise herbs for my hobby (and to avoid paying a psychiatrist!). Eleanor and I had a lot in common. We had some delightful discussions and I learned a lot. She had some novel ways of presenting her herbs at her breakfast (which I have to add to the list of just outstanding food). I drove around the Slea Head penisula and was very impressed with the Galarus Oratory, the beehive huts and the ancient forts. I would have liked to go to the Islands but that’ll have to wait for another trip. Dingle was full of tourists even during the week. But I had the opportunity to go to a traditional music concert. It was lovely. It was the ancient instruments, performed in a church setting. A real contrast to the pub music I got to experience in Kenmare. I bought some cd’s and I am listening to it as I type this. My stay in Dingle was much too short.

My trip was coming to a close, I headed back to the Bunratty Lodge. I wanted to go to Ennis and the Burren but decided to see the folk park and go to the Medieval dinner instead. I was tired of driving and wanted to savor my last night in that enchanted country. I am so glad I did. I had another adventure. I actually got locked up in the castle by accident and had to be rescued by the caretaker. Mary Browne talked me into going to the dinner since the folk dancing was cancelled that night. During the dinner I sat next to some really nice women and had a lot of fun!

I got up and left early in the morning wishing I could stay longer; so glad I decided to venture out on my own and have the experience of a lifetime. Thank you Michele, for steering me in such wonderful directions.
Valerie

Michele Erdvig
ezOP
Posts: 1537
(6/7/03 11:02 pm)
 
Thank You For the Wonderful Report

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Hi Valerie,

I'm delighted that your itinerary turned out well and that you enjoyed your trip to Ireland. It was my pleasure helping you plan everything so that it was just right.

Imagine getting locked in Bunratty Castle--what an adventure! At least you were not in the dungeon. If you were locked in long enough you might have had a free banquet.

Thanks so much for posting your colorful trip report. I felt as if I was along with you every step of the way--including being lost in Cork (everyone is with all those roadworks). I'm so glad you enjoyed your solo trip to Ireland and hope that you get to return again some day.

Keep in touch.

Michele

CatMoore
Registered User
Posts: 7
(6/9/03 12:02 pm)

Legends

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When were you staying at Legends? My husband and I also stayed there May 31 - June 3. We also had dinner there, and it was magnificent! Both Rosemary and Michael were fabulous hosts.

Also, I had the Museli for breakfast while we stayed there, and I think they mix their own. It had these HUGE rasins in them, plus a great mixture of nuts and grains.... Mmmmmmm....

Cat Moore

valhouli
Registered User
Posts: 2
(6/9/03 8:50 pm)

Re: Thank You For the Wonderful Report

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Cat,
I realized when I read your reply that I didn't put any dates in my report. I was in Cashel May 16-17. I only had one breakfast and really pondered whether to have the Muesli, which I love, or splurge with Michael's special. I went with the special. It was smoked salmon and pouched eggs and a wonderful herb sauce. Just delicious! I really wish I had stayed there longer. I got a letter from a woman I met in Ballyporeen and they went to Legends (based on my ravings!) for an anniversary dinner and were delighted.
I feel lucky to have stayed at such an enchanted inn. Don't you agree?
Valerie