Wren
Unregistered User
(8/3/03 6:50 pm)

Trip Report, Part 2: Connemara, Galway, Burren & West Clifden

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Whew, its taken awhile to find the time to post the second half of our trip. I didn't want to rush through it because it was my favorite part!

Our longest drive of the trip was from Cashel, Tipperary up to Roundstone in Connemara. The drive really wasn't too bad - about five hours of road time, with interesting things to see out the window. We headed north and stopped at Clonmacnoise Abbey, which was very interesting. Unfortunately, we got there around mid-day, which seemed to be peak time for large tour buses, so the site was much more crowded than we anticipated. Still, it was well worth exploring.

From Clonmacnoise we drove west, found our way around Galway and into Connemara. I'm not sure whether it was due to skilled driving and navigation, or blind luck, but when in doubt we seemed to wind up taking the right turn or direction, even though the map wasn't neccesarily clear. We went in through the center of Connemara, quickly growing enchanted with the hills, lakes and bog areas, and arrived in Roundstone by around 3:30 in the afternoon.

Our B&B, Errisbeg Lodge, was on the other side of Roundstone, just a short stroll from Dog's Bay and Gurteen beaches, at the foot of Erribeg Mountain. Jackie and Shirley King are the proprietors, and wonderful folks. Shirley welcomed us and made us feel right at home. The rooms have a clean, fresh feel to them, with white walls, good windows, nice pine furniture and luxury of luxury, a king sized bed. The shower was good, with lots of hot water. Our room was on the side that looked towards the sea, and we could watch the everchanging colors of the sky, clouds and water.

Jackie's family has lived on the side of the mountain "forever", and their land stretches up the hill in a series of rock-walled meadows, filled with wildflowers and inhabited by two pure-bred Connemara mares, both with foals while we were there. When I mentioned I'd like to meet the ponies, Shirley delivered a handful of sugar cubes to the breakfast table, and we were welcomed to make their acquaintance. What a treat! They don't ride the ponies anymore, but Jackie will relate the history of the foals they've bred, which are very sought after - they do quite well in shows in both Ireland & England

I had also expressed an interest in the wildflowers, and one afternoon Jackie took me around the field closest to the house, pointing out the different types of plants that grow there (some of which are very rare). One species of heather, for instance, only grows on Errisbeg Mountain and in Morocco! He has taken especial care to preserve and nurture several different types of wild orchids, which he showed me. They were absolutely exquisite - perfectly shaped flowers in traditional orchid shapes but on a minature scale that is completely enchanting!

In addition to supplying good Irish breakfasts, Jackie and Shirley were also wonderful sources of what to do and see in Connemara. Check the next post in this series for the highlights of what we saw, did and ate during our four nights, three days in Connemara

Wren
Unregistered User
(8/3/03 6:29 pm)
 
Connemara Highlights

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Some of our favorite places and activities in Connemara included:

Walking on Dog's Bay and Gurteen beaches, which were just a stroll down the lane from Errisbeg Lodge. Absolutely gorgeous beaches, practically deserted (and this was in July!!!!) with incredible sand made up of powdered shells. One evening the beach appeared completely swept clean, the next there was multitude of small shells along the tideline, along with the occasional stranded jellyfish. On one walk we were accompanied by a friendly sheepdog who gamboled with us on the beach and trotted up the lane with us as we headed back. When we came to the main road, we were afraid he was going to follow us all the way back, and I politely suggested to him that it was for him to go home. He sat down and cocked his head at me, then hopped up, turned around and cheerfully trotted back down the lane to wherever he'd come from. Smart dog!!!

Driving along the bog road.Shirley & Jackie gave us directions for a backroad to Clifden that goes through the Roundstone Bog, which is dotted with lakes, home to lots of sheep, and still used by area families to cut peat. Fascinating drive!

Riding to an island that is only accessible by land at low tide, and galloping a horse along the beach.
Shirley had recommended Cleggan Riding Center (reached via Clifden)and I went on their three hour ride. Really nice folks, who made sure everyone was well-suited for their horse by spending a bit of time with us in the ring before heading out for the island. I really appreciated the time they took to assess everyone's ability level and make sure stirrups were well-adjusted. We rode down lovely country lanes to the beach that separated the island from the mainland, where I got to fullfill a dream I'd had since childhood - galloping a horse along the shore. A truly memorable experience!!!!

Driving tour (on the rainiest day of our trip)from Roundstone to Leenane to Westport and back, seeing beautiful countryside.

Visiting Inishboffin Island - we took the ferry over and back and were only on the island for about an hour. If we did it again I would arrange to stay on the island longer and take a later ferry back.

Visiting Connemara National Parkgood display explaining the bogs and nice hikes.

Wonderful food in Roundstone: Roundstone Hotel, O'Dowds, and Am Beola. Turbot so fresh it tasted like lobster, wonderful salmon and Connemara lamb, great Bailey's Cheesecake. One night we ate at the little internet cafe (handy for checking in with the folks at home) and had seafood chowder, a plate of farmhouse cheeses, and Guinness. Lovely!

Next stop: Galway

Michele Erdvig
ezOP
Posts: 1662
(8/3/03 11:20 pm)

Continuing Saga

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Hi Wren,

Whew! You certainly kept us in suspense. But it was worth the wait.

It seems like you fell in love with Connemara and I can't say I blame you one bit. It is one of Ireland's unique areas with a beauty all its own. In Ireland it is the little things that stay with you like the dog that accompanied you on the beach, the changing seascapes, feeding the ponies, horseback riding on the beach and the warm Irish people. Everyone that visits has their own unique experiences and I thank you for sharing yours with everyone here. It is people like you who make this forum a joy to moderate and maintain.

Are you planning another trip?

Michele

Wren
Unregistered User
(8/4/03 12:35 am)

The final installment

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Yup, Michelle, I did fall in love with Connemara. We probably won't be able to go back for awhile, but when ever we do, Connemara will probably be a permanent part of any itinerary!

From Connemara we went on to Galway. Stayed at Jury's Inn, which had no charm but was very convenient for exploring the heart of the town. We went to McDonaghs for dinner, which we'd read about but found disappointing - the fresh seafood in Roundstone was a hard act to follow.

Since we were so close to the heart of things it seemed like a good night to track down some music, and we really lucked out. The Quays Pub was having traditional music and dancing, and we were early enough to find a couple of stools right near where the musicians would play. It started off with a fellow on guitar and another on keyboard. They were very good, but there was even better in store. The dancers came out - two young ladies about 18 and a 14 year old boy. They were amazing. They did a set, then let the musicians go to it again - this time joined by a banjo player and a fiddler. The fiddle player was one of the most talented musicians I've ever heard - truly had a gift, playing with incredible energy,precision, and excitement. For two hours they played fantastic music, with the dancers doing two or three more sets. By 10:00 the pub was completely packed - standing room only, and the energy level was electric. It turns out the fiddle player (who was in early 20's) was a national champion - both on the fiddle and the bodhran. The boy who was dancing was also a national champion. An absolutely amazing evening of entertainment!

The next day we left Galway for the Burren. Stayed at Rockyview Farmhouse, which was a very comfortable, relaxed place. It reminded me a bit of staying at a favorite cousin's house. After checking in, Noel, the host, told us where to look for the puffins at the Cliffs of Moher, and even loaned us a bird book. The cliffs themselves were awesome, but pretty touristry, with a huge parking lot and lots of coaches. I couldn't believe the folks going over the wall to get closer to the edge. We were able to find a place along the wall where we could look down on the little island where the puffins were nesting - had a good view from the safe side of the barrier, especially with the help of our travel binoculars. The puffins were fun to watch - such neat looking birds!!!

The next day we had arranged to take a hike in the Burren with Shane Connelly, a local farmer with a history degree who does walking tours. With another couple we climbed up Blacks Head, as Shane explained the geology, biology, archaeology, history and current history of the Burren, stopping frequently to point things out like the types of rocks, wildflowers (more orchids!), hidden springs, the structure of walk walls, etc. Near the top we were rewarded with an absolutely amazing ring fort, and had a chance to learn more about the theories and stories of the area. It was a wonderful way to really get a feel for the area. Shane was a knowledgable guide with the Irish gift for turning a phrase. Great fun.

That afternoon we explored a bit more of the Burren and eventually followed the signs to the Burren Perfumery, which was a fun trek - we kept turning down smaller and smaller roads, and weren't sure we were actually going to wind up anywhere at all, but the Perfumery was right where it was supposed to be, with an herb/flower garden, a perfume distillery and a nice little shop. I picked up lavender sachets for friends back home - they also made my suitcase smell great for the rest of the trip!

Our final day we drove down to Kilkee, via Ennis, where we stopped at the Beleek Shop - that's where we wound up buying some Waterford glasses and a little Beleek votive. They shipped it home for us, which was a handy way to do it. We got to Kilkee early enough to head out on the Loop Head Drive, going all the way out to the lighthouse. More spectacular cliffs, with fewer people than at the Cliffs of Moher, but sadly, no puffins that we could see. We stayed at Halpins Hotel in Kilkee, a very nice room but pricier than the B&B's we'd been staying at - I think I'd opt for a B&B in the area instead. It was interesting to be in a place that was clearly where a lot of the Irish families took their vacations - fun to compare with some of the seaside towns we've seen on the east and west coast of the U.S.

Our final day we drove to Shannon and turned in the car. We'd taken full insurance and had no problems to report, but there were several other folks turning cars in at the same time with huge dents and/or dangling mirrors. The comprehensive coverage gave us peace of mind on the trip, even though we didn't actually have to use it.

I'd heard about the good shopping at Shannon, and was initially disappointed, especially since we were a bit early. We finally decided to go ahead through the security area, and discovered THAT'S where all the good shops were. Picked up a few last minute things for presents, before boarding our plane for London.

It was a wonderful trip, and I really appreciate all the pointers and ideas I found on this board. Thanks to all who contribute, and if anyone would like more info about any of the places we visited, just let me know.

Thank you, Michelle, for making this such a friendly place for people with fond thoughts or exciting plans concerning Ireland!

Michele Erdvig
ezOP
Posts: 1667
(8/4/03 1:06 am)

Re: The final installment

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Hi Wren,

You have made my day with your kind comments about my forum. If it helped in some small way to make your trip easier or better then I fulfilled my "Ireland mission"! It was my pleasure helping with your trip and I am absolutely delighted to hear how well it turned out. I hope that you will visit here from time to time to give your wise advice to others who are planning their trips to Ireland. Sharing is what it is all about here.

Michele

P.S. Loved your travel report!