stannseniors Registered User Posts: 47 (10/29/03 9:11 am)
Chapter Two of our Trip (Kilkenny, Cobh and Kinsale) October 5, 2003
Road Weary! It was cold, rainy and long long long today (300 miles). Poor Tony.
We started out with a wonderful breakfast at Cnoc Mhuer – Helen was very nice and gave us the names for B&Bs in Kinsale, Cobh and Killarney. But, we didn’t know where we would wind up so no reservations. We visited Butler Castle in Kilkenny and took the tour (5Euro each). They were a little more formal about things than Bunratty but the castle has been restored and many of the original furniture pieces have been recovered (and I don’t mean re-covered – lol) We say so many interesting things like the couch that four people sat on all looking away from each other. When a guy and girl were courting they would sit back to back with the chaperones on either end. There were fire screens that could be adjusted to go in front of the women’s faces so they would not get rosy-cheeked or have their make-up melt. The servant’s staircase was “floating” stone which meant there is no viable support – they were 300 years old and very scary with a tour of 50 on them. The main hall or gallery was exquisite – it struck you as you walked in and just being SO grand! The ceiling had not been touched and was painted beautifully – from the 10th century!
We went to find St. Canice’s Cathedral and the Black Abbey. We parked in front of the Abby and walked down to St. Canice’s but they were just letting the Catholic service out – so we could not go in. We walked around the grounds and cemetary. We decided to see the Abby and get going – we had a long way to go and we wanted to stop a few places before we got to Kinsale or Cobh.. We started down N24 but decided to make a detour to see Jerpoint Abbey and I’m so glad we did. We found it (after much confusion) and the ruins are beautiful. We found so many tombs for the Walsh’s! We started talking to the girls that worked on the grounds and I told them I was Patricia Grace Walsh and they said “well, you can’t get more Irish than that!” and “all your kin from right up the road on Walsh Mountain”. One girl laughed and said “to be quite honest, it’s only a hill”. I told them it was just like the Walsh’s to exaggerate but I was so intrigued – my parents never had heard of this. Turns out that one of the girls was from that area and told us there was also a ruin of Walsh Castle! You talk about excited – I was going to get a picture of Walsh Castle!! (or what was left anyway). She told us about how far to drive – just down the road, under a railroad track and up a hill and that’s Walsh Mountain – then look to the left to see the castle. Well, Tony did one better and drove up a little dirt road to get right next to it---it was such a rush!
Of to Kinsale. First through Waterford then down through Cork Co. and since it was about 5pm and Tony was getting really tired and his back was aching, we decided to maybe go to Cobh because it was closer. We took a wrong turn going in and saw nothing but the not so nice part of the island---then we finally found the town but the roads were two way and one lane – VERY hilly and we were so lost – we turned around and went ALL the way back around and headed for Kinsale – we thought “Cobh, we’ve been there and done that”. We made it to Kinsale just after 6pm and knocked on the door at Danebel our B&B – they had one spot left! And it was so nice. Phil (a lady) told us about a good restaurant and pub and we were off – starving! We walked down the street, then down a VERY steep path then down another really steep narrow road and we were right in the town! The streets are so narrow and the buildings so close together that it was a little unsettling- the cars still flew down the street but it was Sunday night and everything but the pubs were closed. The houses/buildings were all so beautiful and painted so brightly – I never thought that would look nice – all those colors – but I loved it! We left so quick I forgot the name of restaurant/pub and the way to get there so we wondered a bit before we stumbled across it – Jim Edwards – The food was outstanding – When we walked in it was SO crowded but most all of the people were locals – that’s when we knew it would be good. I had crab claws in garlic butter – yummy and Tony had Plaice (a type of common fish similar to cod) Of course we had to get icecream when I saw someone getting itat another table – Tony had his with hot rasberries but me, I stuck with the chocolate. Afterward we went to “The White House Inn” to hear some music but it was only 8pm and music wasn’t until 10pm so we went up the steep hills back to Danebel. When we got to the top – me huffing and puffing, we saw Phil and her husband just going down – they laughed at my being so out of shape- they both do those hills a few times a day! It’s now 8:45pm and we are POOPED – tv and bed.
October 6, 2003
Started the day with breakfastand we sat with two retired ladies from Australia – one from Sydney and one from BongGalong (or something like that) very nice – on a two month holiday (must be nice). Went and explored Kinsale – nicest little town, very quaint. I had to use the “toilet” and the only one around a pay public toilet in the middle of town. What an experience! 25cents and the door opens automatically. The inside was very spacious and even had a full length mirror! The commode did not have a seat and a contraption (I guessed a sing/dryer combo) was in the (I can’t say corner because it was round) facility. I pressed the instruction button and a women’s voice explained I had 20 minutes before the door would open automatically but when I was finished I should use the hand washer/dryer, puch the exit button and the toilet would flush and the room would be cleaned and sanitized when the door closed. AMAZING- but how embarrassing to have to get instructions how to use the bathroom!
We started driving to Blarney but had to go through the city of Cork – yikes, what a big confusing city (we got lost once and asked a mail delivery women where to go – she kept telling us to go to the “sorting station” (I didn’t want to look stupid so I agreed). She had such a thick accent I thought she was saying something else – anyway, we found our way despite not finding the “sorting station” to Blarney. It was 7 Euro each to get in and and It was VERY windy. Way up at the top of Blarney castle we could have been blown off! There were a lot of winding steps up to the top – very rugged living (I kept thinking of the women’s dresses and their shoes and going up and down these stairs – Yikes!) The rooms were VERY small and rugged floors and not at all what you think of when you think castle. Anyway, I went right to kiss the stone at the top. You have to lay on the floor on your back and back yourself up over the edge then hold onto the bars and lower yourself backwards – the guy up top holds you but he kept telling me “go lower, go lower” I thought “how much lower can I go????” I gave it a good smack (even made a smoochy sound). I’m still waiting for the “gift of eloquence”. Tony refused to do it – Chicken!
We left for Killarney (Phil had made us a reservation) and we drove small side roads – though some of the nicest little towns. We came into the mountains and gasped at how beautiful they were. Our B&B Chelmsford House wasn’t easy to find but overlooked the mountains in Killarney National Park- beautiful! The place was VERY nice and Pat was a gem. We left right away for The Park because it closed at 6 and it was 4. Oh, the Oohs and Aahs! The park is so beautiful. We parked by Muckross House – it would be the house to live in – a killer view! We walked the paths and tried to find the waterfall but at 5:30 decided we better head back and get our car out before they locked the gate. We walked into town from our B&B and it was cold and windy – about a 10 minute walk but it was good exercise. Now we are sitting in the Danny Mann Lounge – the music is great and these guys can really entertain!
I am enjoying your very descriptive trip! I am curious about your stay at Chelmsford. This is what Ande had to say about her stay there:
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"As I reported from my two night stay this summer, the beds are absolutely atrocious, the linens quite threadbare, the hinges of doors very noisy, and the wooden staircase noisy as well. I could never recommend it to anyone unless they are the kind that can sleep easily. The hosts are nice and the place is clean, but that's it. I'd say there are better choices in the same price range."
Ande
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I was just wondering if they have improved things there.
Michele
stannseniors Registered User Posts: 48 (10/29/03 4:27 pm)
Chapter Two of our Trip (Kilkenny, Cobh and Kinsale) Well, it wasn't that bad - it was clean and warm and the people were nice. I didn't think the beds were bad but i may not have been in the same room as the other person and i'm younger so the hard beds don't bother me as much - i don't recall it being hard though. The owner was the nicest person and he really took pride in his home and his food. He gave us so much help.
The funny thing that happened there - that i should add to my journal- we were at so many different B&Bs that i got mixed up which room was ours. At Chelmsford house i walked up the stairs and turned to my left and left again and my husband started to unlock the door - i opened it and people were sitting on the bed! We looked at eachother for a second or two and i was wondering "what are you doing in our room". I don't think i said that outloud but i figured it out - we were in the opposite room. The people were German and didn't speak much English but I'm glad we didn't catch them in any stage of undress or worse--yikes! We paid more attention from then on.-lol
That is very funny about walking in on another couple. Good thing they were dressed! It can be confusing when you are staying in an different B&B every night. This is the thread that was about Chelmsford:
Evidently Ande had springs poking through her mattress and her mother's.
Looking forward to the next chapter.
Michele
garyvol Unregistered User (10/30/03 12:23 pm)
wrong room Your trip report is great including some funny situations (wrong room/public bathroom). The pictures came out great. I see that on page 10, the house in Ring of Kerry picture got finished. It was still under contruction when we went past it, I think not to far from Waterville. Man, what a view the owners have, and the sunsets whew. -gary
garyvol Unregistered User (10/30/03 2:09 pm)
wrong house with a view After looking at my yahoo picture, I think 2 different houses are displayed. Not sure if the links to the photos will will work. sorry for the confusion.
stannseniors Registered User Posts: 49 (10/30/03 3:16 pm)
picture that is so wild - it looks like the same place - do you think it is? That was such a spectacular view! Do you have a web site with all your pics??
garyvol Unregistered User (10/31/03 6:26 am)
pics Yes, it is the same spot and is spectacular. I think when you viewed my photo, you can click on the bottom link of that page. It will link you to my other albums showing different Ireland (from east to west) locations including our (my wife) and I in Copenhagen and Sweden. enjoy. By the way, did you and Tony make the Gap of Dunloe and Agadoe Heights before the journey around the Ring of K. Those were fun spots to shown in my photos.
-gary
stannseniors Registered User Posts: 50 (10/31/03 10:30 am)
same picture we didn't do those but now they are on my list for the next trip! I'm looking forward to seeing your pics - thanks!
Anita Unregistered User (10/31/03 12:46 pm)
Photos It's neat how a lot of us end up with similar photos, but at all different times of the year and different weather. My trip out to Dingle was in the pouring rain, but your day was quite nice. It's interesting to see how the photo would have looked on a sunny day.
Did you climb the 120 foot tower at St. Canice's? Quite a veiw from the top, and windy! Sounds like you had a great trip, and I'm looking forward to reading about the rest of the trip.
Ande Unregistered User (11/3/03 5:32 pm)
Beds I'm amused and pleased that you didn't encounter the springs poking through the mattresses. By the way, I'm not old (30, how old are you?), and I wouldn't think age would influence whether or not you are bothered by hard beds, springs poking you, etc. An uncomfortable bed is an uncomfortable bed no matter your age.
The key story cracks me up because I rather wondered if the keys would open other rooms. They are the old fashioned kind.
I agree the owner Pat is helpful.
Ande
stannseniors Registered User Posts: 51 (11/4/03 10:49 am)
hard beds Ande - i had to laugh because I'm 35 but it seemed that so many tourists in Ireland were seniors (they are usually the one's who can afford it and have the time)I guess you know what happens when people ass-ume?lol My husband and i can sleep just about anywhere so i don't notice the beds as much as people who have truble with hard/soft/lumpy beds. You may have gotten the only bad bed in the whole house or they may all be too hard (i don't remember springs in ours - that i would probably remember)- i hope you let Pat know so he could do something about it. Of course we only stayed in 6 B&Bs so our experience is limited - this was middle of the road of those 6 but it was a lot nicer than some we saw....who stays in those little dirty places in the towns??? Maybe they are better than they look?
Mbarnes Unregistered User (11/4/03 1:49 pm)
Chelmsford house I have been reading the discussion re: this B&B. We are in our 30s too with 2 kids going in April. I orginally thought we would stay at the Chelsford House. The owner was so nice via email. The price was very reasonable too.
Since you've just recently stayed there would you say this was a kid friendly location? We are going to spend 3 nights in Killarney. We want to do the Gap tour/ Killarney National Park/perhaps horseback riding
stannseniors Registered User Posts: 55 (11/4/03 3:23 pm)
chelmford house the room we had was small but had two beds in it--we even commented it would be perfect for a family.
Ande Unregistered User (11/4/03 6:03 pm)
Chelmsford The room I was in had one twin and a double (not a queen). I'm sure the place would be considered kid friendly. One day I came back from tromping around a muddy field and while I had cleaned myself up very well and took off my boots prior to entering, Louise kept telling me I was fine. The only caveat is that if your kids are noisy, the other guests will hear them since it's no different from being in a regular house.
The other b&bs I stayed at were great. Cullinan's in Doolin was very nice (though I won't be doing Doolin again). The bedding and towels were great. Rockside House in Cashel was the absolute best value of my trip and had comfortable beds. Harcourt in Dublin had decent, predictable hotel beds and Glenmore near DUB had pretty ordinary beds as well.
Oak Lawn House Try Oaklawn House, I've recommended it in the past, www.oaklawn-house.com/killarney.htm , the rooms are large, just ask for a family room. Rosemary has 2 sitting areas for guests to use, so your kids COULD have an area for themselves. Best of Luck! -eyps