Michele and Ireland lovers...HELP! My brain is stuffed with info from guidebooks & web-sites. It's starting to keep me awake at night.
I'm ready to book our second trip to Ireland for September 2011. But my heart is lost... I forget how to feel wistful, dreamy, excited, and joyful.
My husband and I will spend 15 nights in Ireland in September 2011. Our priorities for the trip are:
--lots of Irish TRAD music and "sean-nos" unaccompanied singing
--wild unspoiled Irish scenery
--b&bs with the best BREAKFAST in the universe
--meeting friendly Irish folks and enjoying great "craic"
--romance
--Irish history & culture
--native flora & fauna for my biologist husband
--ancient gardens or forest including rare or very old flora
FLIGHTS: We might fly Air New Zealand from LAX into London, and then get on a flight from London to Ireland. I always book accommodations first, and flights last.
Itinerary:
Ideally I would like to select only 4 or 5 "base" b&bs for our 15-night trip: Dublin has to be one base because we will probably fly into Dublin. Please look at my itinerary below and help me to be excited instead of obsessed .
I welcome your opinions and tips regarding my itinerary!
4 or 5 Bases for our 15-nights in Ireland (NOT necessarily in order):
---Dublin: 3 nights
---Either County Donegal??? or Achill Island:?????? 3 nights
---Connemara, County Galway: 3 nights
---Kilkenny (with day-trip to Rock of Cashel): 3 nights
--Clifden Arts Festival in Connemara, County Galway is 15-25 September. We would like to stay in Clifden sometime between these dates, which makes the itinerary planning a little more complicated.
--County Clare: Wish I could fit her in! County Clare was one of our favorite counties on our first trip to Ireland.
--Do we really need to go to both County Donegal and Connemara? Will this be too much "wild and lonely" territory?
--We saw Achill island briefly as a day-trip on our first trip to Ireland. Would love to spend a few nights there on this trip!
--If we go to County Donegal, I cannot decide where to stay for the best TRAD music and wild beautiful scenery. There is good TRAD apparently in Adara (ARna ratha) and also up near Bunbeg way up in the Northwest of Donegal at a pub called Hudai Beag's or Hugh Gallagher's, which has great trad on Monday nights I hear. But is it worth it to go so far north?
--County Wicklow with Glendalough and Powerscourt is left out of this itinerary. Didn't get there on the first trip either. Not sure if it compares to my other choices?
--Already enjoyed Belfast on our first trip, where my favorite Irish Nanny (grandmother) grew up. It was very special! She was actually born in County Armagh in the parish/district Lurgan No. 2, address Tanaghmore W. We didn't try to visit where she was born. I'm not sure that there would be anything to see there. Also I don't know if she lived there very long...her family moved to Belfast when she was still a young child. Basically I feel my Nanny's spirit anywhere in Ireland whenever I hear Irish music or Irish stories, or see lovely Irish seacoasts or gardens, or have Irish tea, all of which she loved.
--We like a minimum stay of 3 nights at each b&b. But ideally a 4-night stay is better for us. I just get stressed when it's time to pack up and move on. It's more relaxing to stay put. That means choosing each base carefully so there is plenty to do and see at each base.
Michele, and Ireland lovers, what do you think? Which 4 or 5 bases would you suggest for us? (Including Dublin, as we will probably fly into Dublin.)
Thank you very much for your time and comments, suggestions, tips, opinions! I think we would have the best trip if I could narrow the bases down to only 4 bases, including Dublin. Having only 4 bases would allow more time for day-trips off the beaten path. But 5 bases would be ok too, including Dublin.
Hi Melissa You are making things much to difficult. In Sept everything you need is in Clare and Kerry. For your husband definately a trip to the Burren. This is a unique limestone area in North Clare with the only other comparable area on the planet in the former yugoslavia. Matchmaking festival in lisdoonvarna, music in Doolin. Literary culture in listowel, do meet Billy Keane in Keanes pub in Listowel, the son of John B kEANE LEGENDARY iRISH Writer OF The Field, Sive, Many young men of Twenty and many,many more. There are ancient Oak Woods in Killarney as well as just about everything a tourist needs and while you are there you can call to millstreet for a cup of Tea as well. Dont make it too complicated and dont be driving for more than 1 hour per day if you can help it Michael
Whew, I'm exhausted! You have lots of time to plan your trip; I find the planning an enjoyable part of the travel process. Just a couple of practical points. While Achill is one of the most scenic parts of Ireland I would definitely choose Donegal as a base for 3 or 4 days . A few trips ago we spent a great week self-catering in Ardara.
Derreen Gardens on the Beara peninsula would, I think, appeal to a biologist.
Most of the best music sessions I have seen have been by chance. Clonakilty in Co Cork has some famous venues where many well-known musicians perform but we spent a Saturday afternoon in a tiny pub (?Fahy's) listening to a great Uillean pipes player with three other musicians AND some great unaccompanied singing from others in the pub. One of the best groups of Celtic musicians I have seen was a band from France playing in a pub in Corofin, Co Clare. I have met TRAD purists who do not consider Bodrhan drums acceptable. I am less particular and enjoy everything from hard-core traditional music to the Pogues.
I'm sure that once your trip happens you'll have another great time. If you put yourself in situations where interesting things can happen, they will.
DONEGAL OR where?: 3 nights Someplace wild and with some nature for hubby, someplace like in Westport where I might actually hear a woman say to me, "You're American? I haven't met anybody from America here for a while!" Yes, this actually happened to me in Westport in a chocolate shop!
ROCK OF CASHEL: 3 nights (MICHELE, is there enough to do nearby the Rock to warrant a 3-night stay? Perhaps a day-trip?
SOMEPLACE REALLY COOL: 3 nights (This could be a new place or a return visit to the Belfast area where my grandmother lived...)
Since you have already been to Achill Island, I would say skip it this time and choose some of the others on your list. Did you get to Connemara at all on your last visit? Or did you go directly to Westport by another route?
You will get the wide-open lonely places in both Connemara and Donegal, depending on where you stay and go. I also like the Sligo area a lot. It is a place most tourists miss. You drove through on your last trip but I believe you only had a brief stop at Drumcliff.
Derreen Gardens on the Beara Peninsula popped into my mind first thing when you asked about ancient forests. Great minds think alike Stewart! Some others would be around the Killarney area, Gougane Barra (can do from Kenmare), Cong Woods, Glenveagh, Coole Park (nr. Gort), Kylemore Abbey area, Glendalough area, Kilfane (Kilkenny), Woodstock (Inistioge). Keeping in mind that a lot of the really old forests were cut down centuries ago.
Since you will probably arrive and depart from Dublin, you can get a jump-start on your trip by going to Kilkenny on your first day and saving your time in Dublin for the end of the trip.
Now you have to sit down with your map and calendar to see where you need to slot things into to accomplish your schedule including the festival in Clifden. Without knowing your exact dates only you can know how to accomplish that.
Michele has given details for Beara the National park and Kenmare in general. Drive the ring of Dingle Slea Head and Connor pass on the way north of the Shannon
2 Nights Ennis
I like Ennis it is well placed just north of the Shannon and not only gives easy access to the Burren and west Clare coast but also Lough Derg with Killaloe/Ballina at the south end and Portumna to the Northern end. A Day trip from Ennis could be up to Birr Castle Demise
Thanks for your suggestions for Melissa. Having helped with her last trip to Ireland, I know her style. She will definitely spend 3 or 4 nights in each chosen place. She doesn't like to move on a lot but rather concentrate on each area. Ennis is a good suggestion because of the music pubs there. It might be a substitution if she decided not to stay in Connemara.
Melissa,
You probably need to give your brain a break. Take a week and let everything soak in. Sometimes not thinking about it will make the plan gel.
tony2phones: I was so delighted when I saw how you had taken the time to put together a possible itinerary for me, including great web links! Thanks so much! I'm having fun exploring all those options. The Kilkenny Irish Traditional Music Trail on fridays and saturdays sounds fun, and different than what we've done before. (We've gone to pubs on our own before.) The Raneleagh Arts festival sounds interesting too, although I haven't yet figured out where Raneleagh is...I enjoyed the link. Seems like it's near Dublin.
As for Ennis...I do want to check out the music scene in Ennis... And if I don't get to Ennis on this trip, there is always the next trip. I enjoy exploring all of your ideas.
My husband and I are both looking forward to the Clifden Arts Festival and connemara.
Thanks for the links for County Donegal! My husband and I both enjoyed the web link about the Slieve League cliffs. That is the best info on the Slieve League cliffs that I have seen so far. It is also good to know that you consider Donegal town to be a central base, giving access to the whole county. Although Ardara seemed interesting too. But Donegal Town does seem a bit more central, as we could explore the mountains, or go north from Donegal Town, or over to Slieve League...
I'm glad you suggested County Armagh where my Irish grandmother was born. On our first trip to Ireland, I was going to skip Belfast, where my Irish grandmother grew up before she emigrated... But a few folks on-line urged me to go to Belfast. So I did include Belfast on our first trip, and it was so special to me to be standing in some of the places where I knew my grandmother had been...and to share the experience with my 2 young adult daughters and my husband. So it could be that County Armagh would be a special visit too. Although as I said, I don't think my grandmother lived in County Armagh very long...she was born there and while she was still a child they moved to Belfast.
I know Belfast can be a day-trip from Dublin...but...I wonder if County Armagh can be a day-trip from Dublin? Or if its better to spend the night there. I guess I need to look a bit more into it, and see if there are any historic areas remaining in County Armagh. (In Belfast, there is the old botanical gardens which my grandmother enjoyed before she emigrated to America at the age of 17!) I might be able to find out what church she was baptized in (County Armagh) and whether it is still standing.
I appreciate all of the help and positive energy from IrelandYes.com. It is helping me to enjoy the planning process once again. Thanks tony2phones!
stewh: You gave me a chuckle...Yes I was exhausting myself too! I feel a bit better balanced now. Everybody on IrelandYes has been so helpful in a positive way. Thanks for reminding me to enjoy the planning process. When I'm on the fence about something, I like to hear people's opinions. You and Michele have nudged me in the direction of choosing to spend 3 nights in County Donegal (and giving up Achill island), and that's what I'm going to do. Anyway we did see Achill island as a day-trip from Westport, County mayo on the first trip. But have never been to County Donegal.
You had a week in Ardara, County Donegal! How wonderful! The older I get and the more trips I take, our "ideal minimum stay" is getting longer. The more nights you stay someplace special...the more you fall in love with it. It gives you time to get off the beaten path as well. If you had to name 1 favorite experience while you were staying in Ardara, County Donegal, what would you choose?
Since both you and Michele have suggested Derreen gardens on the Beara peninsula for my biologist husband and I, that's a good sign! We loved the Dingle peninsula on our first trip. I think we will enjoy both the Inveragh peninsula and the Beara peninsula. I am puzzled as to why the Beara peninsula seems to have been omitted from Fodors Ireland 2011 guidebook, actually. I'm glad I have Michele's guidebook to Ireland! I wouldn't consider going to Ireland without IrelandYes and Michele Erdvig.
Thanks for sharing some of your favorite TRAD sessions...which were in unexpected places. I too have heard that some TRAD purists don't consider Bodhran drums acceptable. I agree with you...while I enjoy learning more about Irish traditional music...I do love hearing the bodhran! So far my favorite Irish CDs are by the famous The Chieftains. And they have some great bodhran sounds too! I like to put it on and go bouncing around my kitchen, when I'm cleaning up and cooking!
I confess I have listened to The Chieftains over and over, but don't know a lot of the other Irish music groups. I don't know the Pogues! Now I'm going to have to have a listen to them, since you suggested it.
What I love about the Chieftains is their unfailing sense of timing and rhythym. They always play just right...never too fast, never too slow...it just sounds so exciting, so wonderful, so Irish to me!
Thanks for listening to me. I have enjoyed reading your advice.
Michael: oh yes you are right, I always make trip-planning much too difficult. It's great fun that way! (Except when I get a teensy bit obsessed.) But usually chatting with the great folks on the forums reminds me...oh yea...this is the fun part! So I'm going to have fun.
My husband was very intrigued with the Burren on our first trip to Ireland in June/July 2006. I was surprised that even my 2 young adult daughters enjoyed it. We just looked at where the crowds were stopping in the Burren...and went a different way! It's a very unique area.
Someday I hope to attend the Listowel writers conference...it's on my list!
I could probably spend my entire vacation in County Clare and be delighted. With music, scenery, friendly people...County Clare is very special. I agree.
Michele! Thanks for untangling my brain! You always seem to know when to make a definite suggestion, and when to leave things up to me. Among your list of qualifications, you should add "Travel Therapist". And thanks for the excellent travel links on the web which you post in your replies.
Do I really hold the all-time record for planning & travel questions on the forum? In that case, I don't think I'm going to be able to break my own record this time.... You helped me to realize that I think I had about 2 years (or at least 1 year) to plan my first trip to Ireland. Now there are 6 months remaining til our second trip to Ireland in September 2011, and I need to just relax and enjoy it, and not try to "cram". Sometimes I need a reminder...vacations are fun, after all!
Thank you for being so kind as to look up my first trip report, which I'm sure was very long-winded! Yes your summary of my first trip sounds familiar. I was fascinated to see what you posted about how I ended my first trip report with a plan for my future second trip to Ireland! I had forgotten all about that! And lo and behold, my preliminary plans for our September 2011 trip are very similar to what I proposed after our first trip!
So basically, the first time around, I didn't just plan 1 trip to Ireland...I planned at least the first 2 trips, maybe even the first 3 trips!
I think your advice is right-on...I will skip Achill island this time, since we did see it as a day-trip from Westport on the first trip.
Yes it's true we never really saw Sligo, just a brief stop to see Yeat's grave, that's all. Also we never got to stop and see Connemara at all...we caught a glimpse of Connemara from the road as we made the long drive enroute to Westport I believe, although I don't recall exactly what route we took...
Thanks very much for the suggestions of places that have a bit of "ancient forest" remaining, or native flora/fauna or old gardens... I know the truly ancient forests have been cut down long ago, but whatever is left to see, my biologist husband will appreciate.
You are right, I do prefer to stay put in each "base" for at least 3 nights. For me, a series of 1- or 2-night stays is just frustrating and stressful. Stays of at least 3 nights are more rewarding for both my husband and I. I might consider having a 4-night stay, followed by a 2-night stay, in some cases. But really 3-night stays are a good minimum for us, when possible.
Thanks, Michele, for putting up with me, understanding me, and giving me such right-on advice!
I think you would like Ardara. It is a very small town in a nice setting. Glengesh Pass is a must, as is a drive out to Loughros Point. Just to throw another hat in the ring, have you looked at the Killybegs area?
Since you missed Connemara, I think it is time to see it.
I, too, would cast a vote for Ardara. I fell in love with it. It has a very small town feel. They have had some economic issues with the recession, losing two of their major employers there in the past few months. The people are pushing through though and being creative about digging out of the hole.
It will never matter how many times you return, you will feel as if you still have so much more to see. I think the Faeries have mixed in something with the Irish air so that when you take that first breathe, you absorb Ireland into every molecule of your being.
Here are a few photos from around the Ardara area and Sliabh Liag.
Slan Beo,
Bit
-- Edited by CowboyCraic on Wednesday 30th of March 2011 04:21:14 PM
I'm hesitant to pick '1 favorite experience' from our time in Ardara. You might want to take a look at my Trip Report "May 2008 in the Northwest". The drives are spectacular - Michele's picks are great. The journey past Mt Errigal to Glenveagh is also breathtaking. There was quite a lot of good music around the pubs while we were there (BTW I think you might check out the Co Donegal band 'Altan' - much more accessible than the Pogues). Someone we met in Boyle talked about the light in Donegal - much favoured by painters and photographers. Great oysters at Nancy's.
Stewart
-- Edited by stewh on Wednesday 30th of March 2011 07:47:06 PM
-- Edited by stewh on Wednesday 30th of March 2011 07:48:34 PM
stewh: I did enjoy browsing through your trip report on NW Ireland. Both County Donegal and County Sligo sound enticing. We only have time for 1 of those on this trip, so I'm choosing County Donegal, since my husband is also eager to see County Donegal.
I have wrestled a bit with my itinerary because it appears that in September, the trad music generally happens at the same time in 2 different counties...Connemara and County Donegal (Ardara & Glenties) have some trad music planned for about the same time. I'm posting a new question about my updated itinerary.
CowboyCraic: Thanks for sharing the photos of the wildly scenic area near Ardara! My husband and I both agree Ardara & County Donegal have made it into our itinerary... It's not easy to plan a leasurely paced trip for 2 weeks in Ireland when you are trying to get way down south to Kenmare and also way up north to Ardara!
Michele: Thanks for all the travel therapy. Connemara and Ardara are both in our updated itinerary. I have been juggling a lot of balls with this itinerary, but it's coming into clearer focus. To answer your question, I did consider staying in Killybegs, and you have a nice b&b in the area...but I'm trying to choose a b&b as convenient as possible to the music in Ardara & Glenties. (I've been researching which nights trad music is expected in September.)
Your b&b in Ardara is probably easier to find after a late night in Ardara or Glenties...I'm guessing...
I'm posting a new question with my updated itinerary...
And thanks for sharing the lovely photo of the Irish road to Loughros Point!
Glad to hear things are shaping up and coming together for your trip. The B&B in Ardara is a straight shot from town, up a hill. You won't get lost at night! But wait...depends on how many pints you have!
There's something special about putting on traditional Irish music and letting it infuse your surroundings with its lively spirit, especially while going about everyday activities like cooking and cleaning. It's a testament to the infectious and uplifting nature of the music.