Thank you Michelle. You offer extremely valuable insight. I had read that we should allow at least two days for the ROK. Do you suggest that we plan a total of only 3 nights for ROK, Berea, and Dingle? (I had 4) We probably will not climb Croagh Patrick, as we must pack light, therefore without our hiking boots. We enjoy strolls through the woods more than mountain climbing, but want to at least see it, as it is a spiritually significant place We have not made any advance lodging reservations (or plans) yet - I think that if we decide to stay at Ashford or Este, we definitely will make reservations. From the little bit of research I've completed, I'm leaning more towards staying at Ballynahinch (perhaps less pretentious, and we're very interested in the Connamara region for its natural beauty). Your suggestion about Sligo prompted us to read a little more. Originally we had been drawn because it was listed as a center for traditional Irish music, but we should be able to find that in some of the other places. We are actually departing from Dublin (which is why we're ending our stay there). There was very little cost difference in the split arrival / departure, and our international flight home is from Dublin. Our 4 bigest priorities for Ireland are to see the historic side (castles and history), experience the landscape and beauty (with social hiking), experience the music, and relax. We will try to find places to stop for tea, visit with people as often as possible, but avoid in-depth discussions of global politics or economics.

You're wonderful! God Bless you!. Yes, I know that Killarney is en route, and that we were going to spend some time there. Based on the time and weather, I may detour from Dingle to Shannon to try a round of golf at Ballybunion. (I've had considerable experience driving around the world (left and right side), and think nothing of spending an hour or two in a vehicle to get to somewhere memorable. During early June, sunrise should be around 05:15, with sunset around 21:30, which provides us a lot of time for experiencing the country (and still enjoy some evenings since we don't need too much sleep.) I'm trusting that we'll be able to locate B&Bs without advance notice, so I didn't want to make rigid plans. Taking your suggestions, we cut off the Sligo piece, and from Westport will drop down to Cong (village and forest), and stop in the Hollymount area to have tea with a friend's sister and her family. Our return to Dublin will go through Mid-country, and rather than hurrying on the motorway, I'm looking at going through Roscommon, Longford and Mullingar. This gives us the leisure of a little more time, possibly to drop down and enjoy the Wicklow mountains south of Dublin. It's unfortunate that both Waterford and Galway have stopped giving tours (I understand Waterford isn't even being made in Ireland any more - such a shame). Thank you for your tips, and I will definitely check out your hot offers prior to our leaving. Again, thank you.

Greetings
We're finalizing our arrangements, trying to remain flexible. Thanks for the alert on the long holiday weekend of 3,4,5 June: We did book following your suggestions; and used your name as referee (The Lodge in Kenmare, and Friar's Glen in Killarney). I am perplexed about Ballynahinch. I wrote (before seeing that you had a link on your page), and was given a significantly different and higher price than is shown through your link. Is this normal? Do you have alternative castle stays (one or two nights) that you might suggest? Do you know any small cottages in the Dingle, Connamara, or mid-way back to Dublin that might be available for a couple of nights? All the cottages I've found are full week rentals only. Thank you so much.

I might be missing something here but the Ballynahinch that I know is a Castle Hotel on the way out to Clifden by the Roundstone turning.

http://www.ballynahinch-castle.com/

Thank you both (Tony and Chaika). We're not planning on taking to boat to the Skeligs. I'm also trying to reseach other castle possibilities. What is the possibility of finding B&Bs en route - or will we have to have a list and a phone to call from the road? (In many parts of the world, they hang a shingle ...)
Thanks again for the help and support

When I was at Ballynahinch Castle Hotel I asked them if it was a "castle". The answer was no. It is a Victorian mansion and fishing lodge. If others think it is a castle that is fine. I have no problem with that. It does have crenellations so maybe that makes all the difference. But Bunratty Castle Mews has crenellations too.

Maybe I'm being too exacting?

Michele

Dr. E.,

I haven't seen Cnoc Suain so don't know if it is worthwhile. If you stay we would be interested in hearing about it.

For pubs, ask your hosts, ask at the local tourist office, walk through town and look for signs in the pub windows advertising nightly sessions.

Always happy to help. When is your departure?

Michele

First, I apologize that it has taken so long to post our experiences. Second, a heartfelt Thank you to Michelle and all who gave us ideas and helped us plan. It was an excellent trip, although the weather was less than warm and friendly (we weren't traveling for good weather, Thank God!)

Quick overview: the tips we got from Michelle and this site helped us immensely. Ireland has changed. The unfortunate consequence of the Irish Tiger has been that the worst aspects of capitalism are now entrenched (exploitation of the customer), and to a great extent, the warmth and hospitality that I've experienced in the past is not offered to the stranger, and certainly not evidenced in the cities. We did find warm and wonderful people in the outlying areas. We flew into Cork, rented a car, and after touring for a little over two weeks, departed from Dublin.

The GREAT:

• The ease with which we could touch history; whether in our drives (we drove the Berea [which was our favorite. even though we were not at the right time for catching the gondola out to the island], Dingle and Kerry Rings), or our many long walks.
• Gougane Barra (over the Pass of Keimaneigh) and Glendalough (St. Kevin's Monestary in the Wicklow Mountains) were magnificent spiritual retreats with phenomenal walking.
• Cnoc Suain, outside of An Spiddeal; We rented a traditional Irish cottage, and loved it. Charlie and Dearbhail are charming and a veritable fountain of knowledge on Irish customs, Gaelic language and music. We spent 3 magnificent days with them, learning history, traditions (my wife even got to cut bog and make a Bridget's cross), speaking with farmers, etc.. We attended Pentacost Celebration mass in Gaelic (in An Spiddeal), along with hundreds of Irish teens (well dressed, very well mannered) who were there as part of their learning Gaelic. Can't say enough good about Cnoc Suain and the people!
• Kylemore Abbey: Serene place immersed in history, wih a lovely Victorian / Gothic chapel, and one of the best walled gardens in Europe.
• Poulnabrone Dolmen (Portal tomb from approximately 2,000 BC),and the various stone structures (e.g., Dromberg, Staigue Fort)
• Golf at "Dooks" (outside of Killarney). Lovely, challenging golf course with one hole more picturesque than the next.
• Kilronan Castle, in Roscommon county. This was the highlight of our trip. We spent our anniversary there (3 days, 2 nights), and were pampered. All of the people we interacted with were warm, friendly and helpful. The food was exceptional, the grounds magnificent (we walked into town, walked around the lake, swam in their indoor pool, and just luxuriated) Michelle was right on spot with this recommendation!
• Driving was GREAT, and the only way to go. Yes, some of the roads are "tight." I took my time, being careful of tour busses (everyone was right, they do not move or yield right-of-way). Yes, signage is virtually non-exstant. On the other hand, we used the Garmin UK/Ireland map on our GPS, and were able to navigate without any problems. We only covered the south west and central areas of Ireland, yet put on over 3200 KM without any challenges (including navigating Dublin).  We were told by some that we saw parts of Ireland that they hadn't: and they lived their entire lives in Ireland.
• The chance to visit and have lengthy chats with locals; whether a sheep farmer by Torc Falls, Bog farmers by Gleninach and in An Spiddeal.

The GOOD:

• Bunratty Castle and Folk Park was very nice: the opportunity of going througha 16th century castle (with period furnishing) was enjoyable, especially the village. The same for Craggaunowern, which is a bronze age (1,000 - 1,500 BC).
• Gleninchiquin Park: Very nice setting in the hills, with various options for walks, we took the long route, and enjoyed it, especially the old thatched cottage.
• Muckross House and traditional farm. Not only is the house well restored, but the period furniture and outbuildings provide a good feel for what life was like.
• The Arigna mine; having insight into Irish coal mining and what the miners endured. It was an informative and interesting tour.
• The availability of good walking (we prefer walking to pubbing)

The Dissapointing: (in some cases, more than dissapointing)

• Murray for automobile rental: Murray was recommended - this was the single worst advice I followed. I strongly suggest that everyone pay more, but work with a firm that has integrity. We lost 3 hours because they did not have the promised auto, then they gave us an old auto (with 140,000KM with mechanical and suspension problems. To add insult to injury, one month after we returned, they attempted charging our card for more monies. Fortunately, I had enough documentation to identify their attempted activity as being fraudulent.
• Don't get sick in Ireland, or if you think you might, take your antibiotics with you. I got a respiratory infection while in Kenmare. I did get a referral to the doctor, but it was extremely costly (four times what it cost to have my wife treated in Scotland).
• Ashford Castle; we intended staying there, but were disturbed by the combination of haughtiness and lack of warm hospitality. We chose not to stay there, even though the facility and grounds are excellent.
• Dublin: We stayed at Trinity College, which was OK, but certainly not as welcoming as they were previously. We enjoy visiting churches and cathedrals, and were disappointing that you cannot visit either Christchurch Cathedral or St. Patrick's Cathedral without paying; we've only seen this practice in Eastern European countries.
• In general, the food: We tried, really, to get soups: everyone has "vegetable" soup (which means whatever they had left over), and occasionally we'd get lentile soup; but the soups were bland. We tried repeatedly to get Irish Stew (with Lamb), to no avail. (The only truly good food we had while in Ireland was at the Kilronan Castle). The food elsewhere was pallatable, but certainly not commensurate with the prices.
• In spite of our best attempts, we were unable to coordinate any possibilities for dancing.  Apparently, dancing is popular in Ireland during the winter months.

Lodgings we recommend highly:

• Willow Lodge in Kenmare: Gretta and Paul are warm, hospitable and wonderful. Accommodations, food and hospitality are top notch; as is Paul's sense of humor
• Friar's B&B, outside of Muckross, by Killarney: Mary and John are welcoming, accomodations food and hospitality are top notch, and the grounds are wonderful: great place if you like the rural setting. We were there during the motorcycle gathering in Killarney and it was nice to have the peace and quiet.
• Kilronan Castle, in Roscommon County. It's reasonably priced, and wonderful!

Again, thank you all for helpiing make this trip wonderful -  (Final editing, we have 756 photos in our slide show)

Emeric