Hi Michele and friends, shall we escape from Bunratty or linger and explore?
We land in shannon airport after the long flight from San Diego, collect our rental car, then head off with major jetlag for our first day in Ireland. We will be excited but tired, so I am hoping to stay someplace that will provide a memorable introduction to Ireland and not more than a 40-minute drive!
Something we WANT to remember, not something we wish we could forget...
Michele, you have been great about giving me info about all the options like .Adare and Bunratty which are close by the Shannon airport.
Bunratty has a reputation for being touristy...Rick Steves merely says to avoid it and offers no info!
But Michele, I looked at the photos of Bunratty Lodge and it's so lovely! I know this is silly but Maureen O'Hara stayed there...my parents used to play her songs for me on the record player.
And Glenelg with Margaret Liston sounds good too, though there is a remarkable lack of information about Glenelg on the internet from other guests...they must be wanting to keep Glenelg a secret, maybe they're not internet people! Plus I think Glenelg has a phone number but no web-site or e-mail? The only people having info on Glenelg are our Michele and also Karen Brown...I might have seen a guest review of Glenelg on tripadvisor but it's from 2002. Nothing more recent. (I'm an insatiable collector of info.)
Michele, are the traffic and roads very difficult between Bunratty and Ennis? I was thinking if I stayed in Bunratty and we wished to see Ennis, would it be easy or complicated and frustrating?
Ennis appeals to me because it seems like a real Irish town, but I think the hotels are noisy, being right in the town, like the Old Ground Hotel and the Temple Gate hotel...they also have facilities for conferences and wedding parties, which means noisy drunk people keeping me awake and making me cranky... I guess I want to party and then be in my bed before Cinderella's carriage turns back into a pumpkin...
What about this traditional Irish night in the corn barn...that's in the Bunratty folk park? Is that worth it, or is it tacky and touristy? Is the music and dancing performed by talented musicians and dancers? Is any of it built upon authentic traditions?
Michele, have you seen both the Bunratty folk park and the Ulster folk and transport museum that's in Northern Ireland, east of Belfast, near Newtownards? Would seeing both be redundant? (We're going to see the one up near Belfast because my grandmother was from that area.)
Michele, I gather that Ennis isn't your favorite place? Do you enjoy visiting Ennis or where do you prefer to visit if you're staying near the Shannon airport?
Thanks Michele and anyone who wants to offer their opinion!
Melissa, the roads between Ennis and Bunratty are excellent; one of the few divided motorways we drove on. And everything is well signposted as well. We arrived in Ennis, drove to Bunratty to spend the afternoon, back to Ennis to the B&B, back to Bunratty to the banquet, back to Ennis to sleep, and then to Shannon next morning and never missed a beat.
We didn't spend any time in Ennis, but we stayed at a lovely B&B just south of the city called Eden Hill House. Try www.bed-breakfast-ennis.com . It had all the amenities. Of course, what I liked best may have been the ground floor rooms, since it was our last stop before departure!
Something you might consider seeing which is fairly close to Shannon is Craggaunowen Project. You want to stay active and busy that first day to combat the jet lag. If you like, I will send you the instructions I found in an airline magazine (on the way home, of course) for using melatonin to combat jet lag. Once again, I'm at work, but surely I can remember until I get home.
Dude, you're funny, and so helpful and fun to chat with! I am very curious about why your screenname is Dude but you said you look like grandma. I think I should change my screenname to something more imaginative.
Do you know what hubby did years ago? Our son signed hubby up to play computer games on the internet against unseen opponents. But to be funny our son signed hubby up as "Sarah". "Sarah" played mostly against teenage boys. When they got "fresh" with Sarah, boy were they surprised at "Sarah's" responses to them! I told hubby to stop that, their mothers might not appreciate it. Anyway hubby is no longer Sarah.
Thanks for the info that the roads are good between Ennis and Bunratty...actually they sound more like our roads here in southern Cal.
And how did you enjoy the Bunratty banquet? Would you consider it a highlight of your trip? At the prices they charge, hubby will only be happy if it's a highlight! He is good about letting me spend the money and book things for our family vacations, but he grumbles if he feels he didn't get good value for his money.
Oh, no, Dude, don't go back to your work, stay and chat with me.
Well, Melissa, it's a little later in the day, but I'm back. Here's the jet lag formula: 3 days before your flight, take ½ g. of melatonin at your normal destination bedtime. Once you arrive, take it at bedtime until you are adjusted.
I'm Dude because when I learned to talk (at about 1 week old, judging from how much I do of it now) I had trouble with the "j" sound so I told people my name was "Duder Dones, Okie" In real people talk, that's Judy Jones, Okie. I was born in California but my father was from Oklahoma and after the War we moved back to OK so I tell people I'm a Reverse Okie. Anyway, Mom called me Dude all her life. Using Dude as a screen name gives me a little privacy. Judy is so obviously a 1940's woman.
I enjoyed the castle banquet. On our second trip my daughter and I went to the one at Dunguiare Castle. It was different, and not nearly so crowded. They do pack you in at Bunratty. The music is wonderful and the food okay. I have wanted to go to the Ceili at Bunratty next time. I understand the food is better and it's not so crowded, and the entertainment is good.
I still think I should go with you to act as tour guide. Boy, would that be a dream job if you could pick and choose your clients! Michele has it all figured out.
Bunratty Castle & Folk Park are worthwhile, in my opinion. Other writers have their opinions but it depends on whose style you would trust more. The castle is one of the few that has authentic furnishings, etc. There is a self-guided tour and you can explore all the nooks and crannies and even go up to the battlements. The park is full of different cottages, houses, livestock, a village street, etc. You can go back in time to imagine what living as a fisherman or a doctor or a farmer might be like. And there are plenty of peat fires (supply your own granny!). Bunratty is considered touristy because lots of tourists go there. Many people from Ireland go there too. The Eiffel Tower is touristy too!! I wonder why? Could it be because it is worth seeing if you are in the area? If you decide to do Bunratty Castle & FP, I suggest going early as it gets busier as the day goes on. As for the Ulster Folk & Transport Museum, it is different from Bunratty FP because in addition to cottages, etc. it has a lot related to transportation such as trains, bikes, cars, buses, etc. but no castle.
You are correct that Glenelg has no website or email address. In order to make a reservation you must phone or write. Maybe more people stay there that are not computer savvy and hence don't post their opinions. If having a website & many opinions about a B&B is essential for your decision-making process, then perhaps Glenelg is not for you. Unfortunately, there are many lovely B&Bs around Ireland in the same situation.
As Dude has said the roads are fine between Bunratty and Ennis. As for Ennis, I don't dislike it. It is a real workaday Irish town. Nothing fancy, extremely busy, lots of traffic and parking can be difficult. It is an easy drive from Bunratty.
Bunratty Traditional Irish Night is in the folk park. I actually prefer it over the castle banquets. It is not tacky and the musicians and dancing are very good. It gives you a bit of the history of Irish dance and music as well as having audience participation. A fun night out.
Let me know if you decide to stay at Bunratty Lodge instead and I will recommend a nice, quiet room for you.
I think I would choose Bunratty over Adare. It certainly has a reputation for being touristy but there is lots to see in a pretty small area. As Michele says, the folk park is a much better visit early in the day, and hit the castle 1st. The stairs that you have to climb are narrow and steep and the fewer people you have to meet, the better. I think Bunratty Castle is well worth the trip, I find the folk park a bit ho-hum.
I can't remember your itinerary anymore, but if it were me, I would consider making it out to Doolin. We did the same thing on the last trip, stopped at the castle and folk park first and then headed out to Doolin. We stopped in Inagh at the Biddy Early Brewery which was probably a bad idea and a good idea at the same time. Good beer, but not good for staying awake. The drive from Shannon to Doolin is on very good roads most of the way. Dingle is an easy scenic ride from there. The other good point is you would get to see the Cliffs in the evening, really the only time I am interested in visiting anymore. The light is spectacular for photos.
Again, to avoid Bunratty for equally, if not more touristy Adare doesn't make much sense.
For our first trip to Ireland we stayed at Eden Hill House outside of Ennis. (http://homepage.eircom.net/~edenhillhouse) This worked great for us. It was very quiet. We checked in, took a quick nap, showered, drove to the Cliffs, and then hung out in Ennis for an early evening. My partner wants to repeat that this trip, but I'm making us push on further. Still, if you don't want to commit to a far drive, this might work well. If you decide you have more umph than expected, there are plenty of short drives to take and see worthwhile attractions.
We just made reservations at Bunratty Lodge for our last night in May. Looks lovely, gets great reviews. I have decided to take Rick Steves advice with some hesitancy. I was all about Rick Steves before planning our 2002 Ireland trip (which, btw, was my first international trip). Then I discovered that he ignored Donegal (YIKES--How can back door traveling ignore DONEGAL???!!!), and ignored Leitrim. Those spots accounted for over half our trip, and were certainly less "touristy" than many of the spots he highlighted in the book. Decide what YOU want to experience and enjoy, and then go for it, no matter what it is labeled by tour book authors. Of course, listen to Michelle, who appears to me to be the most straightforward of the "Ireland experts" and least likely to try to steer you in their preferred direction but instead help you make decisions that are good for you. Also, pay close attention to Bill (wojazz), who always seems to give outstanding advice.
(BTW Bill--you probably won't recall this, but I think you were the Bill who helped answer my last minute, panicked questions about my new digital camera the night before Ireland trip #1--on the delphi forums).
Dude, what a cute story! When my very bright son was small, he called his bucket his "guppet". We didn't have the heart to correct him, it sounded way too cute.
Thanks for the recipe for curing jet lag, it might come in handy.
We are considering both the Dunguaire castle medieval banquet, and the various banquets, ceili, and Irish traditional night they have at Bunratty. Do you think doing both the Dunguaire castle banquet and one of the functions at Bunratty would be too similar for one trip? Which did you prefer?
Michele, if you want to know whose style of travel I prefer, I think I would like to try this recipe: Mix together for 1 trip: A generous dollop of Michele Erdvig's charming and comfortable Ireland with A dash of Rick Steves Ireland through the back door adventures A spell from National Geographic Traveller's wild and haunting Ireland A splash of humor from Alastair Sawday's Ireland Mix together with 1 volunteer Grandma in rocking chair (Dude)
Michele, I was disappointed to discover that Karen Brown, as nice as her books are, is actually not just one person visiting all those accomodations...a number of reviewers are listed. You may be the only one who actually personally visits the places you describe in your book! Even Rick Steves has a guy in Ireland who does some of the visits.
Now, why didn't I wonder how Karen Brown could possibly keep up with all those visits in all those countries personally to all those hotels every year?
Bunratty Castle and folk park sound worthwhile, especially from your description. (The more research I do, I keep coming back here with more admiration for you...you really know your Ireland!) Your web-site is nice because we begin to know each other's preferences. From our conversations I think I also would prefer the Bunratty Traditional Irish night. (Though being me, I must investigate every medieval banquet, ceili, and Irish party in existence before making a decision, and I do it all joyfully, though sometimes I get a backache.)
Yes, I see what you mean, Bunratty has a castle and not only does Ulster folk park have the transport museum, I forgot they have a section on the Titanic that we want to see.
You know guides like Rick Steves do everyone a favor. If they direct some tourists away from more crowded places like Bunratty, there will be more room for us! I like the higher end of Rick Steves accomodations recommendations but his lower end isn't my style. But he has some terrific recommendations for family-owned restaurants in Italy, I can tell you that from my tasty experience in Rome especially!
I love going back in time, I think Bunratty sounds intriguing!
Michele, I prefer B&Bs with web-sites, but your recommendation is an exception, if you recommend a B&B that doesn't have a web-site, I am willing to trust it! I will consider it like opening a nice surprise package.
So Glenelg goes on my "Yes" list, along with Bunratty Lodge. Harder to compare them though with less info on Glenelg. I guess it will come down to location...Adare or Bunratty. How would you compare Glenelg with Bunratty Lodge? They must each have their own special advantages. Thanks for the offer of recommending a nice quiet room at Bunratty lodge if I choose that one, I appreciate your help.
I mention your web-site when I'm on fodors.com and I run across someone who sounds like they would enjoy your style and benefit from your expertise.
It sounds like for me, Ennis would be more enjoyable if we stayed right in town and parked our car at our hotel and walked all around town. However, I fear the hotels in town are probably not quiet enough for me. I really appreciate your input and everyone's input on Ennis and the other towns, it really helps me decide what sounds best for us.
Well I"ve gone blabbing on again! Thanks always for listening. What are you going to do with me?! I will run you out of space on your web-site.
Bill, many thanks for your good advice and info. Another vote for Bunratty.
Yes, we're going to see Doolin and the Cliffs! We'll fly into shannon, spend 1 night probably in Bunratty or maybe Adare or Ennis (schizo decision-maker)...then 3 nights in dingle at Heaton's; then up to County clare for 3 nights, gotta choose a village to use as base; plan to see cliffs of Moher in afternoon for sure, and would like to see The burren and the cliffs of Moher; depending on the weather maybe a day-trip out to Aran Islands...Then we're on to County Mayo for 3 nights; then Belfast area for 2 nights, then finish up with 3 nights in Dublin.
I like hearing everyone's opinions. Interesting that you feel Adare is just as "touristy" as Bunratty anyway. If you put everyone's opinions together you get a surprisingly more realistic view of a place, all the pros and cons that make up a "real" place. Then you're making your decision based on a more well-rounded picture.
Besides, if I stay in Bunratty, I will be closer to Ennis, in case I decide that we just have to see Ennis!
Your opinion is always welcome, and I love your name, wojazz3.
Oopsy, have fun on your second trip to Ireland! What are your plans? Thanks for the info and advice. Wow it's past my bed-time (again).
I can tell you this...I think Rick Steves said Italy is his favorite country, and I think his Italy guidebook is stronger than his Ireland guidebook, that's just my personal opinion (from somebody who has been to Italy but hasn't been to Ireland yet!!!) We just loved his restaurant recommendations for Rome especially. However for Ireland, I haven't had much luck with finding accomodations I think I will like in his guidebook; Michele I love your accomodations recommendations!
I'll have a look at the web-site you kindly included for Eden Hill House outside of Ennis. Thanks for the help. Right now I'm leaning towards staying in Bunratty but haven't decided for sure yet. Tomorrow!
I'm glad you found the Italy Rick Steve's guide more useful. We found Spain to be a bit more useful than Ireland but still certainly not a stand alone. Our best guide for our first trip was Joe, the bartender at the Shamrock in Roundstone. He gave us a little lecture on our last night there (3rd in Ireland) about the importance of not setting rigid schedules and timelines and strongly encouraged us to occassionally turn down streets not on our maps. Look for the brown signs pointing you to an attraction you hadn't heard of and follow that sign. It was through wandering that we found a stunning and serene glen in Donegal for a lovely afternoon (there's no way I could find it again), ruins of an abby in Leitrim that was not part of our pre-trip planning, and Silver Strand in western Donegal, among other great spots.
Our trip in May will be:
3 nights in Roundstone with time to relax and explore Connemara more than first trip (staying St. Joseph's right in town, where we stayed first trip)
2 nights Galway--see some sites but also take a day trip to Leitrim so Mom can see area her grandfather was born (staying St. Jude's in Salthill, not the one on College)
2 nights Castlegregory--standard Dingle activities and hopefully just time spent staring at the beauty (staying The Shores)
3 nights Kenmare--Gap of Dunloe, KNP, hopefully Mizen and a bit of Beara (staying Virginia's Guest House)
1 night Bunratty--possibly folk park during the day--depending on how early we leave Kenmare (staying Bunratty Lodge)
then home...
Of course planned sites along the way are always subject to change based on those little brown signs!
Melissa, once again I'm at work so will have to work off the top of my head (not usually a good idea). There is a third medieval banquet which I have not attended (Knappogue?), but from practical experience, I'd recomend Dunquaire. It's smaller, more intimate but not as crowded as Bunratty. The entertainment emphasis is on Galway area history and traditions. You can tour the castle beforehand, although it's not as completely restored as Bunratty. But you can tour Bunratty as part of the Folk Park experience and not have to stay for the banquet. I look forward to the Ceili on my next trip.
Cahir Castle is a wonderfully restored castle, not to be missed if you are in the area, but no banquet.
If I were taking my grandchildren on a tour of Ireland and had the luxury of plenty of time (and money) I would tour the Folk Park and Bunratty Castle in the afternoon and then attend the Ceili in the evening. Since it's close to Shannon, this would be a wonderful beginning or send-off for the trip. On another evening (closer to Galway and the W. B. Yeats attractions, Thoor Ballylee and Coole Demesne) we would attend the Dunguaire Banquet. Or maybe add Knappogue to my Life List. I think I'll just go live there and maybe live long enough to do and see everything I want to. Too bad I can't get my husband to sign off on that idea.
"I really appreciate your input and everyone's input on Ennis and the other towns, it really helps me decide what sounds best for us."
Melissa,
I'll give you my two cents on Ennis and other towns in County Clare for that matter.
1. Ennis: My wife and I have stayed at the Old Ground Hotel that is right in the heart of Ennis. We were very happy with this hotel. Although it is very busy in the lobby and the streets around it our room was very comfortable and quiet. The thing I like about Ennis is that for a traditional Irish music lover like myself it is like being a kid in a candy store. As I was told by one musician "You can't spit in Ennis with hitting a music session". So there are many pubs to choose from with something going on at night even during the week. There is also Custy's music shop http://www.custysmusic.com/ which is one of the coolest music shops I've been into in Ireland and a great place to go and enquire what is going in in the pubs in town on any given night. My wife enjoyed the shopping there somewhat but not great. Ennis is not what I would call a picture perfect town that you see many of in Ireland. It is a busy, fast growing, bustling town with a lot to do at night. I found the people there very friendly and enjoyed more than a few conversations with locals over a pint and even found myself in a late night singing session (not that I can sing!) in the lobby of the Old Ground with some locals and other tourists. Location-wise Ennis is in a good spot where you can easily reach the Cliffs, The Burren, Bunratty Folk Park, Shannon airport, etc.
2. Ballyvaughn: To me, this is the most picture perfect village in County Clare and also great for someone that wants to spend time exploring the Burren. I really like Hyland's Burren Hotel which also has a very nice pub and restaurant. If you go here you can't miss Monk's Bar and Restaurant. This very cozy and traditional looking pub is set right on Galway Bay and if you get a nice day it is a perfect place to sit outside enjoying the view and a pint of course! The food is excellent as well particularly the mussels. There are a couple of good shops and other pubs in the village as well. Greene's pub is a favorite of mine and last I was there they do regular music sessions on Wednesday nights. OBriens is a nice pub as well. If want to stay in a quieter more scenic village yet still have a couple of good pubs, restaurants, and shops (including Fiddler's Music Shop) in walking distance then Ballyvaughn is ideal. Oh I almost forget there is a nice little Whiskey pub/shop in Ballyvaughn that's worth a visit if you want to sample some of the best Irish Whiskey's
3. Doolin: Essentially this is a very small West Clare village turned popular tourist destination. It has a reputation amongst tourists (not amongst musicians mind you - go to www.thesession.org and ask them yourself) as the place to go for Traditional Irish Music. Now to be fair one of the best sessions that I've been lucky enough to witness was in McGann's pub in Doolin about 7 or 8 years ago. However my visit there in 2003 I wasn't quite as impressed. Although I do really like Doolin. It is in a very scenic area. I love the section of the village where McGann's and McDermott's pubs sit. My wife and met some really nice people there (other tourists from the US and Germany to be specific). But, it's not a place I would go if I'm looking for the best music or to meet and talk with locals. However, it is in a great location for touring the Burren, The Cliffs, and to catch a ferry to the Aran Islands. Plenty of B&B's to choose from. O'Connors pub is probably the most famous pub in Doolin although personally I found it overcrowded with other tourists and although they had traditional music going on every night I'll be damned if I could get close enough to hear it. Based on my experience I prefer McGann's pub to either O'Connors or McDermott's.
4. Bunratty: Touristy as all hell but still a good time. My wife and I have enjoyed the Folk Park and the Castle. I sat outside Mac's Pub and had a pint while my wife shopped and everyone was happy. So there's plenty of shopping, good food, and a few decent pubs to have a drink. It may be an ideal place to stop after leaving Shannon because as I've found out the hard way many parts of Ireland simply aren't awake and open that early in the morning. At least in Bunratty you can get a breakfast and then visit the Folk Park in the morning. I don't know that I recommend you staying there at night. It depends on what you're looking for. If you want to go the the medeival banquet at the castle and do the touristy pub thing at night (such as Durty Nelly's) then by all means stay in Bunratty. A lot of people stay there on their last night since its so close to Shannon (I've done this twice myself) but I've learned that there are plenty of places to stay that are close enough to Shannon the night before you leave such as all the other towns I've mentioned here.
5. Feakle: This is a tiny village set in the rolling green farmlands that is East Clare. You would go here for two reasons only that I can think of (unless you've got family there). Firstly the music (best in Ireland) and secondly the peace and quiet that is rural Ireland. You won't find many tourists here and unless you're there during the Feakle Music Festival in August it won't be crowded. What you will find is arguably the best traditional Irish music sessions and pubs that you will find anywhere in the world and that's no exaggeration. Firstly there is Pepper's Bar that does a regular Wednesday night session that is extraordinary and this cozy place also has excellent pub food. Secondly there is Shortt's Bar that does regular sessions on Thursday night. At both pubs you're as likely to find yourself enjoying a pint and a conversation with a local farmer as you will another tourist. The problem with Feakle is there are few places to stay. There are only two B&B's (Feakle Cottage and Laccaroe House) and few self catering and Hostels. It's also not near any main route. You will have to travel some very narrow and winding country roads to get there. Another reason you won't see many tourists there is there is really nothing to do during the day in the village. The pubs don't open until 7pm so you really have to drive somewhere during the day to stay occupied. However if you want to get away from it all, see what a traditional music session is really all about, and experience rural Ireland then this is the place. I can only hope that Feakle stays just the way it is. In fact I probably shouldn't even mention it here and reveal this hidden treasure. So forget everything I just said and go to Doolin!!
6. Kinvara: Okay so its not part of County Clare but its close enough. It feels like your still in County Clare anyhow. Its really a tossup with Ballyvaughn as to what village I like the best. This is another picture perfect town set on Kinvara Bay. I mean seriously what's not to like about a village that has 11 pubs?! Usually there is a music session going on in one of pubs on any given night except maybe during the offseason. Winkle's Pub also does a regular set dancing session on one of the nights during the week. Keough's does an excellent breakfast and my wife and I have stopped there the last couple of years on the morning that we landed in Shannon. Plenty of B&B's to choose from and the Merriman hotel right on main street is good. Pier Head is a very good restaurant down by the water. One advantage Kinvara has over Ballyvaughn is that Dunguaire Castle is walking distance and if you feel like catching a medieval banquet (on a smaller scale than Bunratty) you can do it here. I've got lots of pictures of Kinvara and Dunguaire Castle on my website from our visit in 2004: www.pbase.com/markan
Kinvara is still close enough for touring the Burren and even a day trip to the Cliffs of Moher is within reason.
Okay I've rambled enough. That's what happens when I get talking about Ireland. What can I say, I love the place. I hope my comments and opinions are helpful and interesting to you.
What fantastic comments and advice you have received from everyone here! Bill is an old-timer on my forum and always gives advice that is "spot on" as they say in Ireland. Dude is full of good recommendations and info. Mark's synopsis of his Clare favorites is just wonderful, as are his photos. Be sure to take a look at them. And I really must thank oopsy for her lovely comments about my advice. Thank you all for sharing!
I want to let you know that Bunratty Traditional Irish Night is the Ceili. They are one and the same. Shannon Development just keeps changing the name of it. A few years ago they called it Style. I wish they would choose one name and stick to it so as not to confuse people.
You could do Bunratty Traditional Irish Nightand a banquet and see very different shows. My favorite castle banquet is Dunguaire because it is small and intimate. They can only seat around 50 people there as opposed to hundreds at Bunratty and Knappogue.
Comparing Glenelg with Bunratty Lodge is like comparing apples and oranges. They are both excellent in their own way. Take a look at the descriptions in my book. They will give you a very good overview of each one.
I agree with you that each book and author has their own style and way of doing things. That's why having more than one book is a good idea. You can then choose what suits you the best from each book. I find that many books nowadays are done by committee or editorial boards. I'm a bit old-fashioned in the way I go about it but I think it suits my own style and gives people a different perspective on certain things. Several years ago I had the opportunity to branch out and do other countries but I decided that would dilute what I was doing. After all, how much can one person do? Instead I decided to be an "expert" on just one country (two if you include the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland!) rather than know a little about a lot of countries. I think I found my niche with Ireland.
We'll be at The Shores in May as well, close to the end of the month. Say hi to Annette for me if you get there first. It looks like we will be there around the 26th + or - a day.
Thanks for the nice comment Michele. I'm getting closer on my travelogue for last May but it is WAAAAAY too long. I have two more days to write about and then I have to build the pages which is just busy work, but a fair amount.
OOpsy: Okay, it's agreed then, the best travel info can be obtained from Michele Erdvig and Joe the bartender at the Shamrock in Roundstone!
And I will look for the brown signs pointing us in an unplanned direction, thanks for the suggestion! Sounds just like a page out of one of my many half-finished fantasy novels, only this one will be real-world!
We might see Roundstone and Galway as well, but we're staying in different places...County Clare and County Mayo among them... I think it's very special your Mom will get to see wherre her grandfather was born. I'm trying to figure out where my ancestors were born so we can visit there. Only thing I know for sure is my grandmother was born up near Belfast/Lurgan.
I see you're staying in Bunratty Lodge. Tthat's one of the places I'm considering, gotta decide!
Dude: I have decided to do both Dunguaire Castle medieval banqet and the Ceili/Traditional Irish night at bunratty, if I can drag hubby to both! I will just tell him the one at dunguare is necessary for my research...you know, educational value... Thanks for sharing your opinion on Dunguaire and Bunratty.
I just signed up for a gym so I can be in better shape for my trips! In my introductory tour this big muscled fellow asked me when I plan to "work out". It seemed like a hilarious question to me. Me, a computer-chair potato, work out? Huh? but hey, how am I ever gonna do all those steps on the Skellig island someday if I don't work out first? That's me, working out.
Mark, I feel like I hit the jackpot, you gave me more than your 2 cents worth, you are a gold mine of info! Please, please, keep talking about Ireland, I love it! Your nicely organized info on each town/village is terrific!
ENNIS: OLD GROUND HOTEL: I am considering staying in Ennis at either the Old Ground Hotel or the Temple Gate. There are some advantages to staying IN town...you get a better feel for the place, and my young adult daughters wouldn't get bored, that's for sure. I am fascinated by the fact that Ennis is known for good trad but is a real Irish working town.
WHICH QUIET ROOM DID YOU HAVE AT THE OLD GROUND? What I mean is, where did your quiet room face? The garden? The street? A courtyard? That info always helps me...I have trouble falling asleep on the noisy side of a hotel.
I too am drawn to TRADITIONAL IRISH MUSIC. Haven't been to Ireland yet, but I like what I've heard. I also tend to like folk music, and (don't shudder anyone) love bluegrass too. I rented a DVD to hear the Chieftains. Yikes, I hope that's the right name, I've already returned it so can't check. In fact, I changed my whole itinerary to fit in more places known for trad, like county Clare, and Westport area, and Dingle town, and I took out Newgrange and the Rock of Cashel. Hope I don't regret that decision.
Have to entertain my 2 young adult daughters on this trip too, and biologist hubby.
I am fascinated to hear from you about ENNIS, as I have been interested in it since I read about it in Rick Steves guidebook, but I love your description of feeling like a kid in a candy store because you love trad. I guess I could still visit Ennis even if I stay near Bunratty? but I'm still torn about actually staying in Ennis or Bunratty after arriving in Shannon.
In COUNTY CLARE we need to be near the Burren for hubby the biologist, so I thought we'd stay in Ballyvaughan though Kinvara is extremely tempting. Even Lisdoonvarna is interesting. I think Doolin sounds too small and too crammed in July.
OH Mark, sorry I'm not as organzed as you, I'm skipping around a lot here.
BALLYVAUGHAN: Thanks for your insight into Ballyvaughan. I'm looking at staying at Sheedy's Country House in Lisdoonvarna, or Drumcreechy HOUSE in Ballyvaughan, or now your Hyland's Burren Hotel is sounding good too. Did you have a quiet room at HYLAND'S? Did you meet any locals in the pub? Yes, I plan to stop at Monk's for sure! Thanks for the other places you've mentioned in Ballyvaughan, sounds like you know it well!
I was considering Fergus view in Kilnaboy, COROFIN, but I think it would be too quiet for my daughters who might find nothing to do at night.
DOOLIN: From all I've read about Doolin it sounds like a place that used to be great before it got so popular. I think it sounds awfully small to have such big crowds in July. OOH, THANKS for that web-site for the music, www.thesession.org I want to look at that!
BUNRATTY: Love the way you aren't afraid to say what you have experienced... "Touristy as hell but still a good time". What I love about Michele's web-site is people can say what they think and nobody jumps all over them and attacks them for it! I find it most useful to hear people giving very different views of a place; it gives me a more balanced picture of what I might think of it, I can see it more clearly. I'm thinking we might like to see Bunratty area when we arrive and then stay in Ennis maybe, but don't want to have all our luggage stolen out of our car on our first day in Ireland, that's a dilemma. If our hotel was in bunratty we could have them hold the luggage for us.
FEAKLE: Interesting to hear about a place no one else has mentioned.I don't think you have to worry about revealing this hidden treasure, since there isn't anything to do in the daytime people aren't likely to flock there! But it is very intriguing, I am going to have to look into it some more. I'll have to see how far a drive Feakle is from Bunratty, Ennis, Dingle, etc. Is this part of rural Ireland mostly farmland, or is there some native flora that maybe would interest biologist hubby I wonder? Do you know?
KINVARA: Very tempting! I really want to stay in Kinvara, the more I hear about it. although Ballyvaughan seems better situated for hubby's walks in the Burren. How far a drive is Kinvara from the Burren (areas where you would want to walk and see the flora of the Burren?) Can't find that out on aaroadwatch because the only Burren they list seems to be a town and it's in the wrong location. Thanks for the web-site which I"m going to check but I keep getting pulled off the computer, life calls!
A million thanks, Mark, for your excellent review of all these villages and areas, generously shared. Everyone reading this will benefit. Your writing is a joy to read.
Michele, my family is going to ban me from the computer, they're calling me off right now! Thank you for your reply and for this great forum, I can't believe all the great responses I've gotten to this question. Thanks for clarifying the ceili is the same as the traditional Irish night in bunratty.
Well that settles it, I've gotten enough opinions and info to think it's worth seeing both the Bunratty ceili/traditional Irish night, and also the Dunguare castle medieval banquet. Unless we decide to do the Ennis pubs on our first night in Ireland, then we'll miss the Bunraty ceili and do the Dunguare castle medieval banquet when we get to clare later.
It sure doesn't hurt to be in shape. For people on fly-drive tours we sure did a lot of walking. On various trips we have climbed up to Queen Maeve's grave (thought for sure my daughter could just toss me in with Maeve if I made it to the top at all) and climbed up the side of Torc Waterfall twice. Then there was the climb up to the passage graves in the Bricklieve Mountains. If the drive doesn't get you on that one, the climbing will. But oh, the view from the top!!! At Croagh Patrick we just went up as far as the statue; how all those pilgrims make the climb on their knees all the way to the top is beyond this Presbyterian's comprehension. You have two choices of nature trails in the Connemara Visitor's Centre; once I did the long one, and when I was older I took the shorter one, although a lot of it is pretty vertical so it wasn't that easy. And all those restored castles have lots of steep, narrow steps so you really need to have comfortable walking shoes and a healthy body for a lot of what you will want to do in Ireland. But you'll never regret any of it.
wojazz3, I'm jealous everyone is going to the Shores these days except for me. (I think my daughters would be happier closer to dingle.) I hope someday to be able to try The Shores on a second trip.
Can't wait to read your travelogue. Long is good! You sound like me. Long can work, as long as we add in paragraphing and section titles. I love long reports and section titles help browsers who are looking for a certain village or B&B in your report.
Dude, glad to hear you're still climbing! As for me, I've struggled with an aversion to exercise all my life, who would have thought that VACATIONS would be the thing to motivate me to get in shape? It's just so exciting to discover all those new places, you hardly mind all the huffing and puffing and sweating. (Even slippery trails in the beautiful Monteverde Cloud forest preserve in Costa Rica...I was so proud of myself!)
Ireland and Europe in general seems to be full of steep old stairs, hills to climb, uneven streets, B&Bs with no elevator...Got to be in decent shape to go on vacation!
Hopefully I can get this post off. My computer is acting very oddly. Anywa, I encourage you to post on ancestry.com message boards for assistance. I have been AMAZED at people's work done on my behalf, without request. Someone drove over an hour to look for records they thought might relate to my Dad's side of the family, with no suggestion from me. Do give it a whirl if you haven't. I have several ancestry subscriptions. If you would like me to try to find some basic info, I could run a search for you. Email me at my_oopsy@yahoo.com. We found my great grandpa's home town after finding his marriage license from NYC and comparing it to some birth records (not his) in Ireland, tracked down through several online sites.
We may very well go to Traditional Irish Night, or whatever it is called May 2006. If so, I'll give you a report before your July trip.
Bill--we'll be at the Shores a couple days before you! Where else are you going on you trip?
Your itinerary for May looks very nice and relaxing. I think that between you and Bill, Annette at The Shores will have a busy spring. If you haven't been there before, you are in for a treat. If you have the opportunity to eat dinner there go for it. Annette cooks like a dream.
Anticipation is building for your opus. I like Melissa's idea of breaking it into chapters. You might have a whole book for us to induldge in. Looking forward to a good read!
Excellent advice to be in shape for a trip to Ireland. There is a lot of walking involved in exploring castles, gardens, monuments, etc. Then there are those fun walking tours of towns and cities. I think everyone should spend more time on foot exploring and less driving around seeing things from the car.
Melissa: I'm pretty careful with the arrangement of my webpages for my journal. There are usually pictures that identify with the text, links to the B&Bs and other links that I can find to interesting places. Each day gets its own webpage labeled by the town that we stayed in that evening. I am working to see if I can get photoshop to build my photo pages automatically but that's still up in the air. That would be a huge time savings. I still have to upload all the photos individually onto the web though along with their thumbnails which is no short task.
The only reason I don't publish it in sections is that I sometimes have to go back and change the links if I overload a page. You see, I cheat and use the free geocities and I usually use 4 to 5 of them and build the links into the page so it's pretty transparent that you are jumping from one website to another. There is a 15MB storage limit and I exceed that by a lot. I think my current planning will eliminate the need for changing the links, but I need to double check that.
The good news is that I finished the prose today. Way to much detail, but remember, I do this for me so that I remember my trips and anybody that wants to wade their way through is forced to endure my ramblings.
I'll keep trying. This has just been a much busier summer than normal.
Oopsy: The current plan has me starting from Dublin going straight towards Westport. I'll have already been in Europe for a week, so jetlag won't be a problem. Then down the coast to see all sorts of things I have managemed to miss. I wonder how many of those I'll miss again?
I have some friends who moved back to Ireland from Colorado. They are living near Galway, so I will stop and see them for a few days. Then it's on to Annette's for a couple. By the way, her 12 yo daughter just has taken up cooking and apparently it's genetic.
From there, I want to stay somewhere that will make a trip out to the Skellig Rocks possible plus I need to do a full Ring of Beara trip. I've only seen parts. Sounds like Kenmare is best, though I've stayed there so many times, I should try something else. Felicity loves Kenmare though so it may be where we end up.
Then along the south coast and explore the SE which I have neglected almost entirely. Last night near Dublin. That's a rough plan over about 16 days. I'm taking a really long trip this year because I won't get to take any vacation prior to that. I'm a master at using my vacation days.
Great news! It sounds like the really hard work is done and all that remains is the "busy work" of uploading, etc. You know we don't mind your long ramblings. Bring it on! The more detail the better.
Have you done a lot of gigs this summer? I know you were also working on the garden of your new house, which is probably a showplace by now. Any Irish pub in the basement yet?
It sounds like a fun trip. Where else are you headed in Europe in May? Isn't it amazing the number of things there are to see in Ireland that somehow get bypassed on each trip? I guess that's why we all go back again and again.