Hi Wendy:

Although going to Kilkenny might not be a must, it really is one of the better "walking cities" in Ireland, and Corey's tour here is great.  I also tend to enjoy the smaller villages better, but find that Kilkenny is a delightful place to spend a day and night, and I keep going back! I also think Michele makes a great point that Galway seems to be getting in the way a bit if you are intent on spending more time in Dublin.  I would consider leaving Galway for another trip.

Staying in Adare is not something I have done, but it does represent a wonderful place to break up the trip and have lunch.  We have done that several times and enjoy walking around afterward. Also this village can certainly be skipped. The drive from Dingle to Doolin is not bad at all, especially if you take the Tarbert Ferry as you head up to see Cliffs.

Two nights in Kenmare and two nights in Dingle represents a good plan in my opinion, as I truly enjoy both villages and the surrounding areas.  You could also select a stay in Killarney and do Dingle as a day trip, so there are some great options.  When you get Michele's book you will no doubt find other things you want to do, as it is a great resource spelled out in a straightforward manner. 

If you want pretty pictures, go buy a book from Rick Steves or Fodor (that being said, there are some wonderful drawings in her book).  If you want great ideas, directions, and easy to understand information, Michele's book solves the task in every way. I bought one years ago and it always is in my bag as I walk on the airplane.

Geno

-- Edited by Geno on Thursday 6th of September 2012 01:11:37 PM

Hi Geno,

Yes, I do think we will make Kilkenny a stop and I will definitely look into the walking tour, and I LOVE the idea of the ferry - that will give us more time out of the car vs. driving.  thank you!  You may be right, we could do 1 night in Killarney after our hike/Ross Castle, and that will give us more time so we aren't in a rush...I just wanted to make sure we have enough time in Dingle, but if we skip Adare we could still stay 2 nights in Dingle. 

What is your opinion about the Ring of Kerry vs. Dingle peninsula?  We are going 1st and 2nd week in October so am guessing Ring of Kerry shouldn't be too busy, but I have read there is no need to drive both and that the Dingle peninsula is better? 

We would love to possibly stay in a castle on the way (though it isn't a "must") - are their any that you can think of that stick out along our route?  So far we only have Ross and Kilkenny on our lists of castles we will be visiting., and neither is a guarantee depending on how our days go. 

And lastly - should we have hotels already booked ahead of time, or because it isn't high season do you think we'll be ok if we have a list of a few to pick from in every spot?  That woudl certainly allow us to be more flexible with our schedule and make changes along the way if we wanted to.... 

Sorry for all the questions, this was a last minute trip we just started planning and we're leaving in 3 weeks so I am trying to get as much information as possible.  I am sure I will have more answered when I get the book - hope to have it soon!!

Thanks so much for help thus far...I have made a few modifications and have a few more questions!  The book will probably be here Monday and I could very well change it up a bit yet.

Day 1: Land in Dublin 8:45am, pick up rental car and head to Kilkenny with stops possible at Powersourt and/or Glendalough, stay in Kilkenny
    

Question - if we only have time for one stop should it be Glendolough or Powerscourt, or should we bypass to get to Kilkenny quicker?  I do want to make sure we have time to do a walk in Kilkenny so if it's not realistic to stop at both and do the walk, we may have to give up Glendalaough?  This is the tough one for me because everything I have read says Glendalough is magical....

Day 2: Kilkenny to Rock of Cashel and Cahir to Kenmare, stay in Kenmare

Day 3: Kenmare Kissane Sheep Farm and Beara Peninsula/Healy Pass, stay in Kenmare

Day 4: Kenmare to Dingle via Killarney - Hiking, Ross Castle
Question - is it too much to hike Killarney, view the castle (maybe do the carraige tour), and still make it to Dingle? I don't want to rush but also want to make sure we have ample time in Dingle since we have a couple days hiking in Connemara as well. We seem to prefer the idea of staying in Kenmare better, but would it make more sense just to stay in Killarney??

Day 5: Dingle Peninsula

Day 6: Dingle to Cliffs of Moher to Doolin

Question - I am seriously considering taking out Doolin as a place to stay...thoughts? If we don't stay in Doolin is it too much to drive from Dingle to Connemara, seeing as though we are stoping to see COM? I am thinking probably...anywhere else we could stay and see additional sights close by? We don't have interest in Aran Islands or the Burren, nor do I feel we have enough time or interest to explore Galway.

Day 7: Doolin (or wherever) to Connemara

Day 8: Connemara

Day 9: Connemara to Dublin

Day 10: Dublin

Day 11: Depart from Dublin

 

Day 1:  If you really want to 'DO' Kilkenny, then I think that you should head straight there.  A 'Detour' via Powerscourt and Glendalough will add AT LEAST four hours -- and that will provide little more than 'Drive By' of two sites that deserve much more time than that.  Factoring in jet lag and inevitable airport delays, an 8:45 arrival means departing DUB airport about 10:00.  A direct drive into Kilkeeny means an arrival about Noon.  With a FULL day planned for the NEXT day, as well, the afternoon is all that you will have to dedicate to Kilkenny.

Day 2:  A long day, but do-able.

Day 3:  Fine.

Day 4: Depending on the walk, this COULD be do-able.  LOTS to see here, though -- Torc Falls, Muckross House and Gardens ...  Tough choice, but if you opt to stay, MY choice would be Killarney.

Day 5:  Fine

Day 6: I would 'Push On' to Spiddal, or Oughtergard -- since Galway doesn't interest you. 

Days 7&8:  Two nights there open up a LOT of Touring and Hiking options -- Doo Lough / Croagh Patrick / Westport as well as Roundstone / Clifden / Kylemore.

Day 9:  LOTS of options for the drive to Dublin -- but it would depend upon whether you wish to GET THERE, or END UP there --

Meaning - Do you want 1 1/2 days in Dublin -- or only 1 ??   

Bob

The temptation is always to do too much. With a set number of days in Ireland you just have to realize that certain things on your "must see" list will not get done. Choose the most important. It also takes time to visit the various sites. Many times people forget that and don't budget time for actually stopping, parking, getting admission, seeing the site and departing for the next place.

Take the wise advice from Bob and Geno and don't plan too much for your first jet-lagged day.

Consider Kinvara rather than pushing through Galway and Moycullen to Oughterard. The Merryman is a great hotel or there are B&B options.

Despite my personal leanings north west of Galway this is a better approach.

The only thing I would change (and heavily cash dependant) would be to have 2 nights at Dromoland rather than 2 in Dingle. That option would give chance to drive Slea Head head and out over the Connor from Dingle. The day between the Dromoland nights could then be used for a trip onto the Clare coast between Loop Head and Ballyvaughan or an inland trip to Logh Derg and maybe the UCL Adventure centre?

Beara makes no difference which way depending on whether you make the loop or zigzag over the passes. Slea head I would say west from Dingle (Clockwise) rather than North but makes little difference. Taking time for Beara might make Dingle less amazing. My opinion of Dingle is swayed by history and experience and whilst I visit with our company it's a long time since I walked the mountains and stayed there for pleasure. The Tour bus takes 4 hours for the peninsular and I believe there is now a 2 hour tour covering Slea Head.

We just did the Connor Pass. In recent years, I've developed a fear of heights, to the tune of having my first and only anxiety attack while driving over a local 4-mile long bridge that I've driven over for 20 years without issue (I've since managed to mostly overcome the anxiety though my heart does race a bit initially). Anyway, I read about the Connor Pass and was very nervous about it. I wasn't going to be driving - my husband was. I'd read many threads on a different message board that made it sound quite unnerving. As we got closer to the actual road we had to take (at one point, you have a choice to go left and go around, or right/straight to take the Connor Pass), I started feeling my heart beat faster. But I convinced myself that so far, everything we'd driven, including the scenic "vee" near Clonmel, was fine. So we started along. If you are heading toward Dingle (north to south), the passenger is on the mountain side with the driver having the drop off on his side, but the car will be to the left of the narrow road. However, it looks like you will be going south to north if you are headed toward the Cliffs of Moher next, right? Anyway, there is a low rock wall on the outside of the roadway that runs most of the way (at least when you are in the higher elevation). It's maybe 2.5' tall? So it acts as a barrier or guardrail, so that you aren't actually looking straight down. But in any case, it's not like there is a sheer cliff dropping down if that makes sense. In all honesty, my husband and I both said later that we couldn't believe what the fuss was about - we've driven on far, far worse/scary drives. This was not worrisome to me AT ALL. We were in Yosemite this spring and had several much scarier drives where you can see nearly straight down in some points while driving. I was actually ducking down in the seat b/c I didn't want to look at some points.

The only thing that I could foresee that might cause worry is 1) at the top there is a very narrow section where only one car can fit through so you have to wait and take turns but it wasn't scary, you just have to go slow at that section to make sure no one is coming toward you, but it truthfully is only moment to actually drive that section and 2) if there is loads of traffic and there are people on your tail who might make you feel like you need to drive faster than you are comfortable. We were there when it wasn't busy so we didn't have a problem. We did have to pull over at the top to let a car come through, but other than that, the drive was actually quite beautiful. We were fortunate to have perfect weather and there wasn't much traffic. Only a few other cars behind us but no one on our tail.

I'll see if I can find a picture or pictures that will give you an idea about the road. Are we allowed to post pictures here?

BTW, we stayed in Dingle for two days and nights. I think you could get away with one day, but we did the Slea Head Drive using a mapped tour so it literally took us nearly the whole day b/c we stopped off at every sight and walked around, spent some time at the Blasket Island visitor center, and stopped for lunch. The next day, we took an eco-tour out to the Blasket Islands that was a 5-hr trip so that was most of our second day. I could easily have spent a third day just hanging around Dingle visiting the shops, biking some of the Slea Head Drive (we planned to do that but it was a foggy day that day). We did not make it to the Beara peninsula though so I can't compare the two. Dingle will not disappoint, especially if you have nice weather - fortunately, we did for most of it.

Wendy,

Just reading about that trail in Maine makes me dizzy! I don't like heights myself. I couldn't go across Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. You will be fine on Connor Pass though. They have actually widened the road. It used to be worse in the good old days. For Beara I like going south to north on Healy Pass. When you go up over the mountains into Kerry such a wonderful scene opens up before you. Here is a photo.

Since you plan on doing activities in Killarney on your way to Dingle, I would say 2 nights there would be better. It will allow time for your Killarney plans on the drive there and Slea Head Drive on the second day. 

If you want some walks around Kenmare do Reenagross Park (back behind the Park Hotel & Sallyport House), The Druid's Circle (behind town signposted near the tourist office) and Gleninchaquin Park  (on Beara). Then there is lovely Gougane Barra.

Michele 

There are differences, but if you are staying in Dingle there is no reason not to do Slea Head.  The drive is rather easy and the views are outstanding.  Be relaxed to know that Conor Pass has been widened and improved over the years. No big deal now, although when I was first there over a decade ago, it was a thrill ride when a car was coming towards you!

While the views are unique, there are other things to experience on Slea Head such as the Beehive Huts, Gallaurus Oratory, the Dunbeg Stone Fort, and much more. More information and material to think about here.

Enjoy!

Geno