Kevin,

Doolin is a very small place with just a few pubs but they have music on every night. However, unless you arrive early and stake out a seat nearby where the musicians are it can be difficult to hear if there is a big crowd.

Ennis is also renown for music. I suggest contacting Custy's since they sell tickets for many events and will know what is on: http://www.custysmusic.com/ Also try: http://www.irishmusicbars.com/ & http://www.folkworld.de/frog/irlpub.htm

Maybe that will help with your decision.

Michele

Kevin,

Yes I was the culprit that mentioned the pub music is better in Ennis than Doolin in terms of quality, variety, quantity, etc.

I'll state it again.  Without a doubt Ennis is a better choice if one of the primary things you want to do is enjoy Traditional Irish Music at night in a pub. 

Michele's suggestion of visiting Custy's Music Shop in Ennis to find out what is going on and where that evening is an excellent suggestion.  Chances are there will be sessions going on in one or more of the following:

Ciaran's Bar

Cruise's Pub

Mickey Kerin's

Brogan's

Old Ground Hotel pub (forget the name of the pub but it's in the hotel)

Fawl's Old Railway bar

Preacher's Bar at Templegate Hotel

and there are probably a couple more.

You can also go to this website www.thesession.org and ask the musicians themselves what they think.

Click here:

http://www.thesession.org/sessions/index.php/search?country_id=75&areaname=&town=ennis&day=Any&search=Search

This will show you a list of sessions that happen in Ennis with day of week and maybe some comments.

Basically, as one musician put it, you can't spit in Ennis without hitting a session. 

Much, much better than Doolin if music is what you're after.

Good luck.

Mark

" have been told by several music lovers that there is traditional Irish music in Ennis, Doolin, Lisdoonvarna, Milltown Malbay, Kilfenora, Dingle, Galway, and Westport, among other places. That narrows it down, doesn't it?!"

Melissa,

It's true all of those places have music but it is possible to get more detail on each place and definately some are superior to others in terms of quality, quantity, and variety.  For instance I would rate Ennis and Galway City at the top of the list in terms of the quantity and quality of pub sessions going on.  Places like Milltown Malbay and Feakle, Co. Clare are outstanding but small villages that may be difficult to find accomodations within walking distance and in the case of Feakle well off the main tourists routes and somewhat difficult to get to.  Not to mention in a place like Feakle it is such a small village that there is a lack of "other" things to do like shopping, restaurants, walking around, etc.  Doolin does have music but it is overrated in my opinion in comparison to other places in County Clare like Ennis or Feakle.  Somehow it got the reputation as being "the place" to go for traditional music.  It may have been once upon a time but to say that now is a big stretch.  Yet people still flock there with that expectation in mind.

I really don't mean to knock Doolin because I truly do like the place.  It is in a very scenic part  of Ireland, close to the cliffs, and the village itself is very nice.  Also I really like McGann's pub.  His brother used to own a pub not far from where I live on Cape Cod that I used to frequent.  So if someone wants to stay in Doolin I wouldn't tell them not to but I just feel the need to speak up when I see someone say they are going to Doolin because they heard it was "the place" to go for music.  There is so much more out there in County Clare.

Mark

Kevin, you may want something in Ennis town if you are going pub crawling (no offense!), but if you don't mind a b&b just outside of town, toward Bunratty and Shannon, check out Eden Hill House http://www.bed-breakfast-ennis.com/ In ten days' travel last trip, it was my absolute favorite; all the amenities and our room was on the ground floor (since it was our last stop, a big plus for my aging knees).

We made two trips into Bunratty from there, and then went to Shannon for our trip home, and found it very easy traveling.

Mark,

Many thanks for the comprehensive info on music in Ennis.

Melissa,

I think you have made the right decision to skip the banquet on your first night. Just see how you feel and wing it. I highly recommend Dunguaire Castle Banquet. It is a much smaller castle than Bunratty hence not so many people attending. It almost seems intimate. There are only three performers and a harpist but the entertainment was very good. Be sure to book well in advance (see my dining page for the email address).

Michele

Melissa,

Do you have your reservations for Bunratty Lodge? If so, Mary has an in with the banquet people. She can make your reservation for you or you can email them yourself. Whatever you prefer. Take a look at this page for more info on the banquet: http://www.shannonheritage.com/Dunguaire_Ban.htm

Is your first night going to be a weekday or weekend? I think you could be happy with staying in Bunratty for the evening. There is Durty Nelly's, Kathleens, The Creamery and Mac's (in the folk park). You will most likely find more "locals" at Mac's. To get into Mac's without going into the park drive down Low Road (from Bunratty Lodge) and before you get to the castle entrance you will see some metal gates on the right with parking. There is a buzzer you can ring to get in. Why not do a pub crawl and see a couple of them?

Michele

Melissa,

If you want Mary to make your Dunguaire reservations for you send an email and ask it in a way that leaves her an "out" if she can't do so. Something like "We have decided to do Dunguaire on such-and-such a date instead of Bunratty on our first night. Is it possible for you to make the Dunguaire reservations for ________  or should we do that ourselves?" It is the center at Bunratty that takes all the calls for all the banquets anyway. But you can also use the email address on my "Dining" page. They usually respond quickly.

Saturday night in Bunratty will be hopping. I doubt if you can elbow your way into the Creamery for dinner. If you want a good "early bird" (5:54 to 7) try the Radisson SAS hotel, which is not too far away. They have a 3-course dinner for 19.95 euro. If you eat there skip the chocolate nightmare dessert and get the ice cream instead. Make reservations: http://www.limerick.radissonsas.com/rsas_link/en/lmkzr/rsasHotelArticle/1053502913487.html

Mark,

Dunguaire banquet is actually my favorite of the three castles. It is much smaller and more intimate. At Bunratty & Knappogue they really "pack in" the tourists on those long benches. Sometimes I feel if you breathe too deeply the person on the end might fall off. The smallness and setting of Dunguaire is lovely.

Michele

"Mark, Dunguaire castle banquet sounds great, and my older daughter is looking forward to tasting mead, since she is an avid reader of fantasy and other books, where people are always drinking mead"

Careful not to get me talking about mead!  Mead has a long history.  It is the drink of the gods.  I don't know if you've ever read Norse Mythology or not but if you do you will realize that mead was a sacred drink in Northern Europe back in the day.  I'm not sure how mead came to Ireland but it is quite possible that it was introduced by the Viking invaders and settlers back in the 9th - 11th century.  And you may not realize it but even today in the United States there are many mead homebrewers and a few commercial mead brewers that produce and amazing variety of excellent mead.  The mead you will have at Dunguaire is called Bunratty Mead that is commercially brewed in Ireland and also exported to the US.  It is a very basic style of mead with mainly honey, water, and yeast as the starting ingredients.  Many of the mead brewers that I know brew with a variety of ingredients such as Blueberry, Vanilla, Maple Syrup, Elderberry, the possibilities are almost endless.  One thing that is present in all meads though is honey since at its core Mead is a honey wine.  I am fortunate that at least once I month I get to enjoy some of these wonderful meads out of carved drinking horns no less!  I have not yet started brewing mead myself.  I am an Ale and Lager brewer with an eye towards brewing mead in the future.

"I'm trying to choose a day for the Dunguaire reservation so that we can enjoy pub music sessions on the right days of the week at Kilfenora, Ballyvaughan"

When I was in Ballyvaughn this past May a sign posted next to the door of Greene's Pub said they do music sessions on Wednesday nights at 10:00pm.  I would assume that this is still the case since I think they've been doing that there for years.  Yes the set dancing is Thursday and Sunday's at Vaughn's.  Definately go there if you can.  It's very unfortunate that Winkle's in Kinvara is being torn down and turned into supermart.  That place was a landmark for traditional music and set dancing

Mark

Hello,

I'm looking for lodging in Ennis but all of the recommendations have been a little on the higher side.  Has anybody ever stayed at Stonehaven B & B?  Any insights?

http://www.stonehavenclare.com/

thanks

Shawn

Thanks a lot Melissa.  That's a helpful website.  I have followed Michele's picks for most of our lodging (if they are available), but I still need to find something in Ennis and Dublin.  We would prefer to be in the thick of things...walking distance.    We won't be there long...so a simple place to sleep is all we need.  Stonehaven may be a decent option. 

shawn 

"I will admit my ignorance, that's how I learn things on-line. What is the difference between a Guiness, mead, and an Ale or Lager? I mostly drink a glass of red wine now and then so I don't know that much about beer in general. Maybe you will enlighten me."

Melissa,

First of all Guinnes is an Ale as are all beers brewed in Ireland and the UK to my knowledge.  You will see why in a moment.  The difference between Ale and Lager is simply the type of yeast used.  In all other respects they use the same ingredients (i.e. malt, grains, hops, and lots of water).  The difference between an Ale yeast and a Lager yeast is twofold.  First Lager yeast ferments at the bottom of the batch whereas Ale ferments at the top.  Secondly (and more importantly) Lager requires colder temperatures to ferment properly.  Lager typically should be fermented at around 48-58 degrees whereas Ale should be somewhere around 65-75 degrees.  Lager is also usually fermented over a longer period of time.  This is what gives lager a cleaner, clearer, crisper taste than a typical Ale.  It also makes Lager more expensive to brew because you need the cold storage to be able to do it.  Based on all this you can understand why Lager is popular in Germany (with it's colder weather) and Ale is popular in the UK and Ireland where it just doesn't stay cold enough consistenly enough to do Lager justice.  Living here in New England I brew Lager's in the Winter and Ale's in the Spring, Summer, and Fall.  The Lagers I brew are typically dark with lots of malt such as a German Schwarzbier, Dunkel or a Dopplebock.

Mead is different thing altogether.  Typically you'd use a champagne yeast with Mead and lots of honey.  I've seen people use 21 pounds of honey just to brew a 5 gallon batch of Mead.  Mead is definately part of the wine family and not beer.

As far as whether or not you should go to Greene's Bar in Ballyvaughn on Wednesday or Linnane's in Kilfenora?  I haven't been to either session so I can't tell you based on experience but I would think Greene's would be the better choice simply so you don't have to drive at night.  Remember typically sessions start after 9:30.  Besides I've been wanting to go to the session at Greene's and I was hoping you could report back here and tell us about it

I don't know if Monks has regular sessions or not.  I do know I really like Monks.  Good food, cozy atmosphere, and great location right on the bay.  Ideal spot to have a pint outside on a nice day.

Mark