Kenmare May 2014

Mac_T · Veteran Member

Kenmare May 2014

Michele Erdvig · Host

I do self-catering frequently in Kenmare. It is a charming town with nice people, good restaurants and shops. I don't know that Bunratty has gone downhill. The economy has hit areas of Ireland pretty hard and one of the hotels in Bunratty has closed. I like it for its closeness to Shannon Airport - perhaps 10 - 15 minutes. When I have an early fight (must be there 3 hours in advance) it fits the bill. There are a couple of good restaurants, a couple of pubs, Bunratty Village Mills (for shopping) and of course Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, the banquet and Irish Night. My preferred B&B there is Headley Court. Lovely place and wonderful host.

Since you are self-catering it will be easy to travel light. You will most likely have laundry facilities at your rental.

Some other day trips to consider:

Gougane Barra
Bantry House & Gardens
Ilnacullin Gardens on Garinish Island
Mizen Head & Sheep's Head Peninsulas
Dingle Peninsula
West Cork
Killarney

I'm sure we will have other suggestions as your trip comes together.

For your car rental, I find booking at least a month in advance gives you better rates. The closer you get to departure generally the prices rise. I check the rates frequently coming up to my trips and save each quote (good for a week). If the prices suddenly rise you can use one of your saved quotes. Also, I phone Dooley in NJ to see if they will give any other offers or discounts.

A forum member has recently contacted me offering a $50 discount coupon for Dooley to someone on the forum, but I would like for him to give it to someone who will actually use it and not just accept it and not use it.

Mac_T · Veteran Member

Thanks, Michele. Certainly some food for thought, and we have 7 months to ponder the day trips -- seems like a great area with plenty of choice. The cottage is in town, and does have washer & drier. There was a pretty good air fare available, so I booked the flights today. Dooley seems fairly reputable, and I like being a able to get a price that includes CDW & SCDW. Suppose it makes sense to wait a while to book the car, tempted though I am to get it done now. Definitely will try the quote save technique.

Michele Erdvig · Host

I recently got a very good rate with Avis. I used Avis.com as opposed to Avis.ie. The .ie had higher prices. HINT: Clear your computer cache and cookies before getting a new quote.

Carla · Veteran Member

A B&B to consider for your last night near Shannon is Cahergal Farmhouse in Newmarket on Fergus. We just stayed there for the first time and sadly only stayed our last night. This B&B ranks high amongst my favorites, of which I have just a few, after six trips to Ireland.

Michele Erdvig · Host

Carla,

Thanks for the feedback on Cahergal. I visited it some time ago and it is one of my "quick picks". I liked what I saw at the time, although I've not stayed there yet.

Michele

Mac_T · Veteran Member

Nice, Carla. I was leaning toward Ennis, but after all the "hustle & bustle" [:) of Kenmare, a night in the country might be what's called for.

Green Dragon · Guru

You might be interested in the Ballycrovane Ogham Stone on the tip of the Ring of Beara - you have to walk through a farmer's side yard to get to it, but it's impressive. I had several good meals at O'Donnabhain's pub in Kenmare (I also stayed in their B&B).

Mac_T · Veteran Member

Green Dragon wrote:
You might be interested in the Ballycrovane Ogham Stone on the tip of the Ring of Beara - you have to walk through a farmer's side yard to get to it, but it's impressive. I had several good meals at O'Donnabhain's pub in Kenmare (I also stayed in their B&B).

Christy: the stone looks like an excellent stop. It looks like it's on the counterclockwise route around I was thinking of taking around the Beara ring. Found a well done You Tube video on driving the peninsula that's well worth a look. Should be a fun drive.

BTW, took a look at your website, and fastened on the Scotland trip report. The Edinburgh section brought back some great memories of last year's trip there. We rented a flat on Candlemaker Row & walked everywhere. Hiking Arthur's Seat was a bit strenuous, but the weather was clear, so we were rewarded with great views. The Bow Bar, near the flat where you stayed, was our afternoon oasis a couple of times. Bread & cheese from Ian Mellis was amazing. The Edinburgh trip was one of the best vacations we've ever had, and it's a loose template for what we like to do: choose a base, explore it, take some day trips here & there.

For the upcoming Kenmare trip, I made a short list of places to stay, and Mrs. Mac picked the Old Dressmaker's cottage, which gets good reviews & reminded her of the Edinburgh flat.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/VacationRentalReview-g211860-d2016770-The_Old_Dressmaker_039_s_Cottage-Kenmare_County_Kerry.html#reviews

-- Edited by Mac_T on Sunday 27th of October 2013 04:52:19 PM

Wellsley · Guru

Hello Mac T,
We stayed in Bunratty.
Bunratty Haven (Bunratty) 80 euro for three per night one room, breakfast included. It is centrally located between the Bunratty Castle and Shannon airport. Very clean beautiful like new house. The best hostess of all the B&B's we were in. Very organized, helpful and friendly. The second best breakfast we had in Ireland. The internet worked in the room. Best price of all the B&B's we stayed at. I would highly recommend staying at this B&B.

Frank

-- Edited by Wellsley on Sunday 10th of November 2013 08:11:43 PM

Mac_T · Veteran Member

Frank, we checked out your suggestion and decided to go with Bunratty Haven. A big plus for us were the family's labradors -- we love dogs -- though, sadly, Lorraine reported that the female, Mandy, had an inoperable tumor and had to be put down recently. We visited the folk park in Bunratty on our last trip, but my wife may want to see the castle this time. With several other attractions nearby, and the proximity of Ennis and Newmarket-on-Fergus, we'll have plenty of options for our last day.

A question about the route from Shannon to Kenmare. We are arriving on a bank holiday weekend, and it so happens that the annual Rally of the Lakes around Killarney is held then, and portions of the N71 between Killarney and Kenmare will be closed both Saturday and Sunday. The owner of the cottage suggests taking the N21 once we are past Limerick, then taking the N22 to bypass Killarney to the north and east, and entering Kenmare on R569. It is also possible to take the N20, which heads due south toward Mallow -- we'd then have to work our way west before getting to the R569. Does anyone have experience with the latter route -- does it have anything to recommend it? We won't be in a huge hurry -- I expect to take a couple of rest stops, since it's our first day.

As for the rental car, I did reserve with Dooley over the phone at the NJ toll free number. The service rep honored the 5% Dochara discount. She initially quoted the price in dollars, but I had a quote from the website in euros that, based on the Visa consumer rate for that day, was about $35 less. She did the comparison herself and honored the lower price. The difference is akin to the dynamic currency conversion idea that has received so much attention. I've posted this before, but here is the place to find Visa USA's consumer conversion rate http://usa.visa.com/personal/card-benefits/travel/exchange-rate-calculator.jsp

So, the foundation for the trip is complete. Fortunately, we only have two more months to wait. We'll be doing most of our own cooking, but there look to be some excellent restaurant options in Kenmare -- suggestions welcome.

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

The drive to Kenmare from Shannon is a LONG one for a day-of-arrival, so if it were Me, I would avoid Killarney -- even if the Rally was NOT going on. The N71 from Killarney to Kenmare is INCREDIBLY scenic, but is VERY twisty/turny, hilly and narrow and a poor choice for the END of a jet-lagged, First Day drive!

Since it IS your Arrival Day, I would recommend the N21/N22/R569 -- since it is probably QUICKER. www.aaroadwatch.ie calls it 104.8 miles and 2.5 hours. I would call it 3 hours and possibly, a bit more. Along the way, is Adare, which might make for a nice, VERY scenic, Stretch and Breakfast stop. Traffic can 'bog down' a little, in Newcastle West and Abbeyfeale, but isn't horrific.

The alternate route, via Mallow, and then West, on the N72, is 117.2 miles. Although much of MY favorite areas lay along (but, just OFF) of this route, the N72 really doesn't have much to offer to a First-Time Visitor that does NOT have 'Links' to the area.

Michele Erdvig · Host

Take Bob's advice of the N21/N22/R569. Take the ring road around Killarney and don't go into town. I've been there during the Rally of the Lakes and the ring road was fine. Since you will be in Kenmare for 2 weeks you will have plenty of time for the more scenic drives when you are well rested and the rally is over with.

Mac_T · Veteran Member

Bob & Michele, makes sense, I'll go with N21/N22/R569. I really was not looking forward to doing the N71 on Day 1 anyway. Better to save it for a day when we visit Killarney.

Roy · Guru

Last year we had breakfast in Adare, though we had to wait on the Dovecot Restaurant in Adare Heritage Center. The breakfast was nice, especially after an overnight flight. We stayed in Abbeyfeale on our way to Kenmare, not much going on there.

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Michele and Roy will have some 'foodie' rec for Kenmare. I can't think of any, but I'm more of a 'Killarney' guy ...

In Kenmare, or nearby:

The Stone Circle: http://www.megalithicireland.com/Kenmare%20Stone%20Circle.html

A working sheep farm with an interesting tour: http://www.kissanesheepfarm.com/

LOTS of walking and interesting items: http://www.bonaneheritagepark.com/

A couple of interesting Stone Ring Forts along the Ring of Kerry: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRsIqPeuFtU

In nearby Sneem, an unusual eatery: http://strawberryfield-ireland.com/

Mac_T · Veteran Member

We have less than 3 weeks to go, now. The luggage pieces have been pulled from storage & await filling. We are ready to go now...patience...

The list of places to visit & things to do has filled out. Part of the ROK is a possible, with the boat ride to Skellig Michael penciled in - if so, that's a full day, since the boats go out to the Skelligs around 10 am, and come back after 3, correct? In any case, some time exploring the Black Valley and inland portions of the Iveragh peninsula is very likely. Beara is definite, though its up in the air about doing a figure 8 or a circuit. Rock of Cashel is still on the list, and will be a full day there & back, I think. Gougane Barra is now on the agenda: http://www.gouganebarra.com/. Along the West Cork coast, Mizen Head and/or Sheeps Head look like a go. My wife also wants to visit Cork City -- not that keen on it myself, but I understand the attraction -- last time I was there was 38 years ago -- wonder if I will recognize anything?

There's a good chance well make stops in and around Glengariff, Bantry, and Skibbereen as part of the West Cork forays although Glengariff could be part of the Beara tour, depending on our route. We want to see an Irish football match, and will catch one on May 11 the Kenmare Shamrocks are playing at Listry, which is a little north & west of Killarney (this is a Senior League Division 2 contest).

With two full weeks, we have time for improvisation and just having some down time. Next trip will be the Southeast.

-- Edited by Mac_T on Sunday 13th of April 2014 02:09:19 PM

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

It could be a LOT worse ---

We have 8+ weeks to go! furious furious

Hope you have a GREAT time! Let us know how it all turns out! biggrin

Mac_T · Veteran Member

Will do, Bob. Been looking at some of your old trip reports for entertainment and ideas. Good stuff, thanks for taking the time to do them.

Michele Erdvig · Host

Don't forget to go into the tourist office in Kenmare. They will have lots of info and free brochures for you. You might also be interested in the Seafari boat tour from Kenmare pier. In May be sure to do Cherry tree walk in Killarney - through the golden gates opposite the Avenue Hotel.

Mac_T · Veteran Member

Yup, tourist office will be one of the 1st stops -- it's about 100 yards from our rental. A cruise in Kenmare bay is a virtual certainty. We like the water -- live on the Chesapeake Bay -- so we will be seeing a lot of coastal sites. But for the Iveragh peninsula, I think we'll stay off the beaten ROK path for the most part, and try the interior.

Carla · Veteran Member

If you're planning to go into the National Forest Park at Gougane Barra, be aware that is closed until June for tree felling. http://www.irishtimes.com/news/environment/cork-s-gougane-barra-forest-park-closing-due-to-tree-fungus-1.1643902

Michele Erdvig · Host

Thanks for that update Carla. I love visiting Gougane Barra. So serene and unpopulated. I'm sure the winter storms played havoc up there in the mountains. The park will have to be made safe for visitors.

BTW, nearby Kenmare is Star Outdoors activity center. It is worth a look.

Carla · Veteran Member

Gleninchaquin Park could also be an alternative to Gougane Barra.

Michele Erdvig · Host

Here is more on Gleninchaquin: http://www.irelandtravelkit.com/the-long-and-winding-road-to-gleninchaquin-beara-peninsula-co-kerry/

Unless you plan on hiking or picnic I didn't think the price of admission was worthwhile.

Mac_T · Veteran Member

I had seen that the at Gougane Barra park itself is closed, but I think a trip to see the church & the Lee Valley scenery is worthwhile, no? Thanks for the Gleninchaquin info -- that's on the possible lists of stops. Michele, do you think the Seafari cruise or the cruises out of Star are better? I was going to check them both out & maybe ask around town for opinions. Depending on how energetic I feel, may rent a kayak or a sailboat at Star.

Michele Erdvig · Host

Ask in town if the oratory is open at Gougane Barra. It is quite scenic just around there: http://irelandyes.wordpress.com/2011/09/16/friday-freebie-gougane-barra/

Unfortunately I can't compare the two cruises but ask around to see what people think.

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

If you do make the trip to Gougane Barra, you could do it as a 'Loop' that includes Bantry, Sheeps Head (and the Goats Path!).

Google Maps says: 113 mi, 3 hours 27 mins

Along the Route: Top Of Coom -- Ireland's Highest Pub (Altitude-wise, at least! biggrin ), Kealkill (Carrignagass Castle and some Stone Circles)

https://www.facebook.com/Topofcoom

http://carriganasscastle.com/

http://irelandseden.ie/explore-eden/sheeps-head-peninsula/local-stories-and-traditions/the-sheeps-headway

Mac_T · Veteran Member

Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone. Bob, that looks like a good day out, I think we will try that. A thoughtful friend sent us a gift certificate to Lorge Chocolatiers -- Lorge's website is down, but this will give you the idea: http://www.fundays.ie/lorge-chocolatier So I guess we will be forced to stop there...

This is my third trip to Ireland & it's shaping up as the best one, yet. See you all back here in a couple of weeks.

Michele Erdvig · Host

Lorge Chocolates? YES! Delicious handmade creations. My mouth is watering.

Have a great trip and we look forward to hearing about it when you return. Safe travels.