14 day September itinerary review and suggestions, please? Self drive and bus tour combo 3 couples.

irisheileen · Member

14 day September itinerary review and suggestions, please? Self drive and bus tour combo 3 couples.

tony2phones · Guru

First off welcome.
Then Doolin? 3 days,, sorry but wouldn't be my choice especially September with the Lisdoonvarna overspill. There are only 4 bars to chose from, 2, I might visit. With a day for the Cliffs of Moher and Burren "Geo Park", another day for the Inis Oirr and Cliffs cruise (Innis Oirr is the only Island I would consider from Doolin). Loop Head peninsula would be another option but I would Visit there from Lower down maybe the day before meeting up in Bunratty? On the Clare Coast, Ballyvaughan or Lahinch/Ennistymon would get my vote over Doolin which is a nice place to visit in the summer but not on my personal overnight list. Kinvara just over the Galway border ticks that personal box.

Depending if the dates match I might be tempted to see/stay Clifden during Arts Week? rather than stay in Galway then a night in Ennis perhaps before Bunratty, this night could be a base for loop head as earlier or a pop over here to the Lough Derg region.

If you don't fancy Foynes then Limerick has King Johns Castle and the Hunt Museum or keep the car another day and see Quinn Abbey and the lower Shannon points yourselves.

Answered your message before seeing this question.

markan · Senior Member

I second Tony's comments about Doolin and also say that I much prefer Ballyvaughn or Kinvara over Doolin. I never stayed at Lahinch or Ennistymom so I can't say but I love Ballyvaughn and Kinvara.

I've stayed in Doolin a few times over the years starting in early 90's and my last visit (and it will be my last) in 2012. Unfortunately IMO it has not changed for the better. In October 2012 my wife and I encountered many drunken young American tourists basically running amok in the village. One making a nuisance of himself at Fitzpatrick Bar making the other patrons and bartender more than a bit uncomfortable complaining how a knife got pulled at him out on the street (probably because he was being a nuisance to other drunk young Americans?). Too bad because I actually thought Fitzpatrick's is a nice place with an excellent selection of Irish microbrews (almost unheard of in the West of Ireland) and good food and potentially the only positive improvement to Doolin. We then migrated down to McGann's pub where we encountered a group of obnoxious aforementioned tourists slamming down shots at the bar to the point one of them fell completely off the bar stool onto his back while the others roared in laughter. Then as we promptly left a young Irish woman was lecturing a young American man outside about how it was unnecessary, rude, and classless to piss on the side of the building in plain view when the pub has perfectly good toilets. Of course he argued with her with his baseball cap turned backwards, pants slightly down because that's "how we roll" as he said. Overall quite embarrassing behavior from my fellow Americans.

I will never go to Doolin again. Too bad because it was actually quite charming with good traditional music back in the early 90's. It's not the same. I would skip it.

Edit: In fairness, I'm sure that is not the sort of thing that happens every night in Doolin. We just got unluckly I suppose. But it is one indication of how the village has changed. This is not the sort of thing I would expect to encounter in the other places mentioned .... ever. But who knows.

-- Edited by markan on Thursday 9th of January 2014 04:00:38 PM

irisheileen · Member

Thanks for your help!
We were figuring the first day at Doolin would be a lazy day and take it easy. That leaves us 2 full days in Doolin to tour. We heard it had great Trad music and we didn't want to switch lodging too often. I've gotten the feeling from my travel partners that they don't want to be too hectic. We already have put a deposit on the Sea View B&B for 3 nights. Would a better idea be to travel to Galway area through the towns of Lisdoonvarna, Ballyvaughan and Kinvara instead of the Poulnabrone Dolmen? Visit that instead on the way to catch the bus tour in Shannon?

What do you mean by Lisdoonvarna overspill in September?

I thought that Galway would be a good base for 2 nights, again, so that we don't pack and unpack alot. Not the best?
Loop Head Penisula I'll have to research!

I'll look into King Johns Castle.

Thanks!

irisheileen · Member

markan wrote:
I second Tony's comments about Doolin and also say that I much prefer Ballyvaughn or Kinvara over Doolin. I never stayed at Lahinch or Ennistymom so I can't say but I love Ballyvaughn and Kinvara.

I've stayed in Doolin a few times over the years starting in early 90's and my last visit (and it will be my last) in 2012. Unfortunately IMO it has not changed for the better. In October 2012 my wife and I encountered many drunken young American tourists basically running amok in the village. One making a nuisance of himself at Fitzpatrick Bar making the other patrons and bartender more than a bit uncomfortable complaining how a knife got pulled at him out on the street (probably because he was being a nuisance to other drunk young Americans?). Too bad because I actually thought Fitzpatrick's is a nice place with an excellent selection of Irish microbrews (almost unheard of in the West of Ireland) and good food and potentially the only positive improvement to Doolin. We then migrated down to McGann's pub where we encountered a group of obnoxious aforementioned tourists slamming down shots at the bar to the point one of them fell completely off the bar stool onto his back while the others roared in laughter. Then as we promptly left a young Irish woman was lecturing a young American man outside about how it was unnecessary, rude, and classless to piss on the side of the building in plain view when the pub has perfectly good toilets. Of course he argued with her with his baseball cap turned backwards, pants slightly down because that's "how we roll" as he said. Overall quite embarrassing behavior from my fellow Americans.

I will never go to Doolin again. Too bad because it was actually quite charming with good traditional music back in the early 90's. It's not the same. I would skip it.

Edit: In fairness, I'm sure that is not the sort of thing that happens every night in Doolin. We just got unluckly I suppose. But it is one indication of how the village has changed. This is not the sort of thing I would expect to encounter in the other places mentioned .... ever. But who knows.

Oh, I'm getting nervous about Doolin! I've been daydreaming about staying at the Sea View B&B with it's deck that has a view of the Atlantic. I see our group of friends chilling out there in the late afternoon before we go to one of the pubs for dinner and Trad and having coffee in the morning. We've already booked and placed a one night deposit with the Sea View.

-- Edited by markan on Thursday 9th of January 2014 04:00:38 PM

markan · Senior Member

Sorry to make you overly nervous about Doolin. Make no mistake, I've had some very good nights there too. Although I've found that the trad there isn't so good anymore. Mostly just amplified/miked, touristy version put on by paid musicians on most nights these days. You can read about sessions in Co. Clare on this website including those about Doolin on this thread specifically:

thesession.org/discussions/32758

The Session website, btw, was created and run by trad irish musicians.

The spillover Tony mentions is from the annual Matchmaker festival in Lisdoonvarna that happens that time of year which means there will be even more hordes of drunken single young tourists not only in Lisdoonvarna but also spilling over into Doolin only 8km away.

Sorry to be a downer. But it's reality.

markan · Senior Member

Actually start here so you can read several threads about trad music these days in Doolin:

thesession.org/search

Geno · Guru

While I agree that I would not spend three days in Doolin, I admit I really like the village, have stayed there several times, and always find it a quiet and relaxing base in that area for a couple of days. We normally go to Gus O'Connors Pub, but I have been to the others there as well and never had a problem with rowdies. Also agree with Kinvara and Ballyvaughn -- close drive from Doolin, so make sure and go up there for lunch or some strolls.

Also, though I have not stayed in the B&B you mention, I know where it is and it appears to be an amazing vantage point for the area and a great place to stay. The props on TripAdivsor are quite high.

Relax and have fun. Heck, you might need a couple of days to kick back!

We will return there ourselves this March.

Simply enjoy it!

Geno

-- Edited by Geno on Thursday 9th of January 2014 04:58:26 PM

Michele Erdvig · Host

The Lisdoonvarna "spillover" means that there is a matchmaking festival in Lisdoon in Sept. Since it is pretty close to Doolin there may be lots of people staying in Doolin who are attending the festival.

I've never had a problem in Doolin at any time of year. You can always get rowdy people anywhere. I remember reading about a riot in Dingle a few years back.

Since you want to be right near Eyre Square in Galway you can't do much better than Park House Hotel. Plus they provide free parking, which can be hard to come by in the city.

Clonmacnoise is rather out of your way since it is in the middle of Ireland. If it is a must maybe see it on the drive from Galway to Shannon. Then do Bunratty Castle & FP on the day the group goes to Foynes...providing the tour is coming back to Bunratty and not proceeding on to another destination. If they are going to another destination for the night, you are going to have to go with the group to Foynes.

If there are going to be two couples going from a Dublin city center hotel to the airport taking a taxi will actually be cost effective. If only two then the bus is cheaper but will take longer. I think for that early a flight I would just pay for a taxi and not dilly dally around with the bus before dawn.

tony2phones · Guru

Fortunately Good Trad can be found all over Ireland Doolin is the only place for Trad like Kinsale is the only place to eat and Dingle is the only place with a Dolphin and Rick Steves endorsement.

Sea View is the top of Fisher St so handy for Gus O'Connors and what could be considered the centre of the village.

Galway races are 8th - 10th September Evening races so you might want to avoid town on the 10th? would you consider leaving that night open and maybe stay on Inis Mor if the weather is right? or out in Clifden, there is a lot of accommodation right on the town.

-- Edited by tony2phones on Thursday 9th of January 2014 06:57:56 PM

markan · Senior Member

irisheileen,

Hindsight is 20/20 and in hindsight I apologize to you for giving you unnecessary alarm. Did I have a bad experience on my last visit to Doolin? Yes. Is that outweighed by all the good experiences a million tourists including myself have had over the years and will continue to have? Also yes. At any rate, I'd take Michele's and other's here word for it over mine anyhow. They've got a ton of experience. I'm sure and hope you'll have a great time there and hopefully you'll write a trip report here for us to read when it's all said and done.

Cheers.

Mark

-- Edited by markan on Thursday 9th of January 2014 07:10:34 PM

irisheileen · Member

Since you want to be right near Eyre Square in Galway you can't do much better than Park House Hotel. Plus they provide free parking, which can be hard to come by in the city.
Thanks all!

Michelle, I think I am mistaken about Eyre Sq. Please tell me where we want to be to be at the "center of town" with strolling thru shops and pubs. Latin Quarter? I am ignorant of Galway but I've seen picutures of people strolling around a central area. What is the famous area?

Thanks Mark and Tony.

Would it be possible/good idea to check out of Doolin, after 2or 3 nights, and head directly to Clifden for a night and then tour around there and head to Galway for the last night before returning car to Shannan? We have a 1 nt deposti at Sea View and if we cancel one of the 3 nights booked there will be a $25 administration fee each night, each room. Maybe worth it to cancel last night and head up north more? Opinions? We had wanted to avoid lots of unpacking and packing.

Clonmacnoise is a wish list but not imperative. I chose that because I thougt it was close to Galway. We do like historical Religious sites.

Taxi to airport sounds like a plan!!

Thanks all!!!!!!

markan · Senior Member

IrishEileen, your aim is good regarding Eyre Square that is the center of it and the shopping area that I think you are thinking of is a short walk from the Park House Hotel. Just head south from the square towards the docks. Plenty of great pubs around too although my personal favorite pub for trad music in Galway is The Crane Bar on Sea Rd. You might need to take a cab for that one though. I've stayed at the Park House Hotel once too and loved it. As I recall they gave us a complimentary shot of brandy upon checking in that I thought was a nice touch. Don't know if they still do that?

Mark

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

The pedestrian area your referring to is probably Quay Street and Shop Street. It IS in the Latin Quarter, near the Wolfe Tone Bridge and the Spanish Arch. It's only a few blocks from Eyre Square.

LOTS of great shops, eateries and pubs: http://www.galwaycitypubguide.com/pub-crawls/the-quay-street-shuffle.html

Bob

tony2phones · Guru

As an alternative to Clonmacnoise http://www.irelandtravelkit.com/kilmacduagh-abbey-co-galway/ can be seen between Doolin and Galway or Galway and Bunratty.. Coole Park http://www.coolepark.ie/ (will have to do a write up on there) and other Yeats points are also around Gort. http://www.ogradysgort.net/ is a good spot for a Pub/Carvery lunch in the centre or a couple of good Café's

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

I agree with Tony about Kilmacduagh. It's a TERRIFIC site. There are actually a number of religious ruins throughout West Clare and Galway-- Drumcliff, Dysert O'Dea and Killinaboy, to name three ... biggrin http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_monastic_houses_in_Ireland#County_Galway

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_monastic_houses_in_Ireland#County_Clare

http://www.roundtowers.org/kilbennen/index.html

http://www.roundtowers.org/drumcliff2/index.html

http://www.roundtowers.org/dysert_odea/index.htm

http://www.roundtowers.org/killinaboy/index.html

Bob

-- Edited by Itallian Chauffeur on Sunday 12th of January 2014 12:25:16 PM

Geno · Guru

We didn't mean to go to Kilmacduagh, but it found us on our way from the Shannon Airport to Doolin once (OK, I suppose we were a bit lost). That was a great off the road experience as we parked the car when we saw this ruin and spent probably an hour there with just ourselves and a small dog who thought he owned the place! These are my favorite types of moments in Ireland -- when it finds you!

Michele Erdvig · Host

Me too Geno. I love it when Ireland finds me. biggrin

irisheileen · Member

Thanks for all the suggestions!
What do you think about this change up in the itinerary at the beginning:

Would it be possible/good idea to check out of Doolin, after 2or 3 nights, and head directly to Clifden for a night (and then Westport?) and then tour around there and head to (or thru)Galway for the last night before returning car to Shannan? We have a 1 nt deposit at Sea View and if we cancel one of the 3 nights booked there will be a $25 administration fee each night, each room. Maybe worth it to cancel last night and head up north more? Opinions? We had wanted to avoid lots of unpacking and packing. Because of the Galway Races I agree we wouldn't want to stay in Galway.

Michele Erdvig · Host

A night in Clifden and one in Westport is doable. Then you could drive south through Cong and Galway to Shannon. But I would skip Clonmacnoise.

Michele Erdvig · Host

There is also Clare Abbey just outside Ennis: http://www.irelandtravelkit.com/clareabbey/

tony2phones · Guru

I would stay 2 nights in Clifden (often do) and visit Westport for a Day trip. There is enough to fill a couple of weeks with Clifden as a base and adding Westport gives far too much for such a short stay in the region.

Look.. I don't like Doolin because I am relatively local nothing new or different, visitors see through new eyes. I like to have a wider choice of bars, like to chat with the locals and tourists who want to chat (rather than huddle with their fellow countrymen (please don't come all this way to do that)) and there must be a reason why people do like the place, just because I don't get it and don't like the over hype doesn't mean there's not something there. Call into the Doolin Hostel for a coffee, ask for Anthony and say tony2phones sent you..get a bit of local craic. (news/gossip)

3 nights will give you a different Pub each night and time to explore the area. http://www.dochara.com/tour/itineraries/burren-tour/ gives some of the usual points in the area. A mini cruise of Inis Mor and the Cliffs on a good day is great. You might even have time to explore over this side or down by Loop Head?

http://ireland.activeboard.com/t50055177/n59-galway-route/ will give details to Cliffden and the map link http://goo.gl/maps/L5ihu some ideas for what's around south Connemara.

-- Edited by tony2phones on Saturday 18th of January 2014 07:39:18 AM

Michele Erdvig · Host

So many choices, so little time. That is always the dilemma in Ireland. If you don't feel like moving every night then Tony's idea of 2 nights in Clifden will work. While in Doolin you could consider a day trip down to Loop Head to get off the well-trodden tourist track.

irisheileen · Member

OK, I've tried to get my act together and came up with this alternative itinerary after listening to all the suggestions and comments.

Please tell me if I am off on my expectations for each day. Thanks. We will attempt to cancel the 3rd night in Doolin and lose $25, but it seems worth it. There are 3 couples with 2 cars before bus tour so I am listing several options from which to choose each day.

Sun 1, SNN rental car to Doolin drive travel R480 thru Burren? --Cliffs walk and/or 3pm Cliffs Ferry tour, relax on B&B deck!, Pub and Trad at night
day 2 --Aran Island Ferry Inishmore (really want to see this particular Island) day trip, others may do Burren, caves, horsebackriding, Pubs at night! Relaxing at Sea View B&B.
3rd day-- check out Sea View, drive to Clifden thru Ballyvaugh, Kinarva (lunch?), avoid Galway City , Scenic Drive along Coast Rd (do we have enough time to do this? It adds about 1 hr to travel time) to Check into Kingstown House B&B for 2 nights(friends' brother owns). dinner Marconi?
4th day --Tour Connemara region = Sky Drive, Kylemore Abbey, TullyCross Villiage, Killary Fiord Scenery/ maybe 90 min cruise?, Connemara Heritage Ctr, overnight Kingstown House again Will we also have time to visit Westport?
5day--Check out of Clifden B&B, drive to Connemara Heritage Ctr if not done yesterday, drive to Ashford Castle, stay a couple hrs?, continue to Ennis 1.75 hrs for B&B overnight. Clare Abbey, if time? NEED B&B reccomendation here please?______________

On this 6th day, Friday, we meet up with our CIE Bus Tour at Bunratty Hotel. We will skip their Cliffs Tour since we already did that and instead will visit the Folk park, Durty Nellies, etc until the Dinner with other tour members at Medieval Banquet. Here is the tour:

Bunratty Castle Hotel 1nt Foynes Boat Museum = (blah!) what else to do while others tour with bus?
Killarney Plaza Hotel 2nt RoK, Ross Castle, Kenmare, Jaunting car etc = yeah! drive to Blarney, Dungarvan lunch Trad session =yea!
Granville Hotel 1 nt waterford crystal dunbrody Famine Ship
Royal Marine Hotel, south of Dublin 2 nts including Taylors Three Rock Pub for my 60th Birthday dinner!! Last full day here, take Glendalough day trip p/u right at ferry.
Thurs 12th & Fri 13th day--- check out of Royal Marine and take DART to Dublin City Buswells Hotel by Trinity College for 2 remaining nights (Buswells?) 2 full days of hop on-hop off 48 hr voucher. (no rental car needed) but second full day my husband and I are doing bus tour to Giants Causeway all day.
Sat check out of Dublin Hotel take early sharedtaxi to airport for 9am flight What time should we leave hotel to arrive for International flight? of 9am = boohoo, going home :(

So what do you all think? I am having our travel partners over for dinner this Sat and hope to present this version of the plans.

Thanks SO MUCH for your imput!

tony2phones · Guru

I seldom do the coast drive into the Connemara, Point one you have to negotiate Galway itself. Point 2 once past Salthill you are inland and not seeing the coastline anyway.

The N59 is a better smoother faster option without the couple of bends that will trip even me when not concentrating.. The signs around here are Irish your map etc will more than likely be English,, Just a warning..

Kingstown House is in an ideal location. Marconi is better than it used to be, there are other options but please not Mitchell's,,, We generally do the drive up to Westport trough the Doonlough scenic route and back down the N59 (vice versa depends how the mood takes me)

Gray Gables is a good B&B in Ennis and our usual option being about the closest into town (2 mins)

Bunratty.. will you be staying here the night of Foynes? if so as said keep the car and see some of SE Clare maybe Quinn Abbey and Killaloe/Ballina before returning the car and bus back to Bunratty.?

irisheileen · Member

Thanks Tony. I will skip the coast rd to Clifden. Will we have time to follow your advice on your Galway route, ireland.activeboard.com/t50055177/n59-galway-route/ making some of the stops? We don't want to get in too too late to the B&B in Clifden.
You said: We generally do the drive up to Westport trough the Doonlough scenic route and back down the N59 (vice versa depends how the mood takes me)

Do you mean we CAN, in one day, do the Sky Road, then travel to Kylemore Abbey and continue up to visit Westport (maybe dinner?) and then back to Clifden? Not sure what you mean by "Doonlough Scenic route".

Yeah, Bunratty is with the bus tour and they leave from here for Foynes. Will we have time to do all that I planned on the trip from Clifden to Ashford Castle to Ennis?
Thanks!!

tony2phones · Guru

On the map http://goo.gl/maps/L5ihu in the link the Scenic route icon gives this Link http://www.thinplace.net/2012/10/meet-doolough-spirit-in-connemara.html to the Doonlough/Doolough drive. and assuming no more than an hour for Kylemore maybe 2 hours if the weather is good then Westport is an easy loop drive.. Try the Sky Road in the evening as I give in the N59 link, to be honest following right round the bay is a bit so so unless you enjoy the sight of yellow seaweed?

If you want a spot of lunch looking out onto Clew Bay try http://www.croninssheebeen.com/

There is never enough time, but you will gage what is possible by the time you get to Clifden.. Driving around the Burren area is rather slower paced than the Connemara..

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

The N59 exits Clifden, heading NW, toward Westport. It goes past Kylemore. Just past Leenane, it intersects (to the Left) with the R 335 -- which ALSO goes to Westport, via Delphi and Louisburgh. The R 335 Drive is probably one of THE most scenic drives in all of Ireland -- at least, in MY opinion. It is also QUITE historic.

Info:

http://www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~irlmayo2/faminewalkmemorial_doolough_mayo.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doolough_Tragedy

http://www.ianohio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=798:the-tragedy-at-doolough&catid=148:illuminations&Itemid=603

Visual:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1RT61zFwpg

Bob

irisheileen · Member

Itallian Chauffeur wrote:
The N59 exits Clifden, heading NW, toward Westport. It goes past Kylemore. Just past Leenane, it intersects (to the Left) with the R 335 -- which ALSO goes to Westport, via Delphi and Louisburgh. The R 335 Drive is probably one of THE most scenic drives in all of Ireland -- at least, in MY opinion. It is also QUITE historic.
Info:
http://www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~irlmayo2/faminewalkmemorial_doolough_mayo.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doolough_Tragedy
http://www.ianohio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=798:the-tragedy-at-doolough&catid=148:illuminations&Itemid=603
Visual:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1RT61zFwpg

Bob
Thanks, we got together last night and decided to go this route up to Westport!
So, please check me on this:
day1-shannon-Doolin, cliffs
day2-ferry to Aran Islands- pros and cons between Inishmore and Inisheer? I really want to do the pony cart ride. Which is the best for this?
day3- Doolin-Clifden via Ballyvaugh, Kinarva, skirt Galway, N59 to Clifden. Do we have time to stop at Connemara Heritage Ctr?
day 4- Sky Road, Italian Chauffer 's route to Kylemore, Westport for dinner and back to Clifden via N59 if dark already, OR Scenic route that parallels the N59 out of Westport to meet up at the N59. TOO MUCH THIS DAY?
day 5 check out Clifden travel east N59 (stopping at Connemara Heritage Ctr if not seen yet. How much time will we need there?) Ashford Castle 1-2 hrs needed? Down to Ennis for overnight near Shannon airport where we have to return rental car. on day 6.
day 6 meet up at airport- CIE tours transfers us to Bunratty Castle hotel to start 6 night Southern bus tour which ends in Dublin.
day 11- last full day of bus tour at Dun Laoghaire. Take bus day trip to Glendalough right at ferry near hotel!
day 12-DART to Dublin hotel for 2 nights.
day 13 full day bus tour from Dublin to giants causeway.
day 14 fly home

tony2phones · Guru

Inis Oirr is the sensible trip from Doolin..Inis Mor should be done from Rossaveal. For Inis Oirr see http://travelhag.com/2013/04/15/inis-oirr-aranislands/ and consider the Combi Cruise under the Cliffs and Inis Oirr as a package. http://www.obrienline.com/

Any stops on the N59 are your choice but I would suggest you just call into Moycullen for the Crystal and Marble spots plus maybe a bite to eat.

The Herritage centre can be done as a combination including the Old Bog Rd, Roundstone and Dogs Bay. maybe the Connemara Smoke House? The Sky road can be done in the evening