After weeks of perusing the forums, and having just discovered your wonderful site, we've narrowed down our itinerary for our two-week self-tour of Ireland in late August.We fly into and out of Shannon and aren't particularly interested in Dublin or the east coast this trip. After some thought and incredibly valuable input from others, here's what we've come up with:
8/18: Arrive Shannon, drive to Ennis/The Burren/Ballyvaughan/Doolin/Lisdoonvarna/Cliffs of Moher, stay in Ennis (with 2-hour nap squeezed into the afternoon for sanity's sake).
8/19, 20, 21: Drive to Sligo, stopping in Tubbercurry on the way. Visit Grange/Moneygold area, Benbulben, Donegal, Killybegs, and at some point detour into Leitrem to Drumshanbo and maybe Belleek. These are mostly family-related trips - my husband's father came from Tubbercurry and his mother from Grange in the 30's. Close relatives still live in Sligo Town and Grange. We're leaving unscheduled time to visit with relatives and just go where things take us in this region. My family was from Drumshanbo, though I don't think there's anyone left there now - still want to see it, though. We'll stay in the same place for these three nights and are looking for suggestions for a base B&B.
8/22 Drive through Westport/Connemara region; stay in Galway.
8/23 Ferry from Rossaveal to Aran Islands (Inishmore), explore Galway; stay in Galway.
8/24 Drive to Doolin, seeing anything we missed/would like to revisit in County Clare; stay in Doolin. (though we hear that Doolin will be both full and nuts! in August...should we stay in Ennis again?) This could be a less scheduled day and will break up drive from Galway to Dingle.
8/25 Drive Loop Head, then Killimer/Tarbert ferry to head to Dingle. Stay in Dingle.
8/26 Dingle Peninsula/Connor's Pass/Slea Head. Stay in Dingle.
8/27 Leaving Dingle, visit Killarney (ever so briefly? it will be August, after all, and a little too crazy?), Killarney National Park/Gap of Dunloe, Muckross House; stay in Kenmare.
8/28 See anything we feel we've missed in KNP and perhaps Ring of Beara. Not intending to do the entire ROK. Stay in Kenmare.
8/29 Drive through West Cork - Bantry, Skibbereen, Baltimore, etc., and on to Kinsale by evening. Stay in Kinsale.
8/30 Relaxing day in Kinsale, perhaps a trip to Cobh. Stay in Kinsale.
8/31 Last day in Ireland - drive through Cahir to Rock of Cashel. Stay in Bunratty at Dunaree or Park B & B, dinner at Durty Nellie's, OR stay in Ennis once again for last night at Cruise's Pub. This would make 3 one-night stays in Ennis for this trip!
9/1 Drop car, fly home from Shannon.
So...our main question: We've been told that the drive from Sligo area, through Westport and Connemara and on to Galway, is really too much to plan for one day. I tend to agree but am stumped as to a reasonable way to get this all in without too much backtracking. Here were two possible solutions:
Plan A:
8/21 head for Westport late in the day; stay in Westport (may feel a little cut short in the NW...)
8/22 drive through Connemara, stay in Galway
continue with itinerary, OR
Plan B
8/22 drive directly to Galway, see Galway
8/23 Connemara/Westport loop, to County Clare for the night to be ready for ferry from Doolin in the morning (still sounds like a pretty long day?)
8/24 Doolin ferry to Aran Islands, back to same B&B as 8/23
8/25 Loop Head to Killimer-Tarbert ferry to Dingle
continue with itinerary
Any opinions or other ideas? Does the rest of the trip look doable and wise?
8/18: Arrive Shannon, drive to Ennis/The Burren/Ballyvaughan/Doolin/Lisdoonvarna/Cliffs of Moher, stay in Ennis (with 2-hour nap squeezed into the afternoon for sanity's sake). * This will be your first day in Ireland so you will want to take it easy. Why backtrack to Ennis? If it is for the pub nightlife I really don't think you will be awake by then even if you do take a nap. The sessions at pubs start after 9 pm sometimes as late as 10 pm. Save the pub crawl till a bit later in the trip. You would be better off staying somewhere on the coast of Clare, maybe Ballyvaughan.
8/19, 20, 21: Drive to Sligo, stopping in Tubbercurry on the way. Visit Grange/Moneygold area, Benbulben, Donegal, Killybegs, and at some point detour into Leitrem to Drumshanbo and maybe Belleek. These are mostly family-related trips - my husband's father came from Tubbercurry and his mother from Grange in the 30's. Close relatives still live in Sligo Town and Grange. We're leaving unscheduled time to visit with relatives and just go where things take us in this region. My family was from Drumshanbo, though I don't think there's anyone left there now - still want to see it, though. We'll stay in the same place for these three nights and are looking for suggestions for a base B&B. * You have a lot packed into these three days. But you can cross things off your list of least importance. You may find that when visiting your family they may get hold of you and not let go. In that case you may not get a whole lot done but visting with relatives. Look at my "Lodgings" page for a good B&B in Sligo.
8/22 Drive through Westport/Connemara region; stay in Galway. * Extremely long day. You may be better off going directly to Galway and fitting in a day trip to Connemara instead.
8/23 Ferry from Rossaveal to Aran Islands (Inishmore), explore Galway; stay in Galway. * Fine.
8/24 Drive to Doolin, seeing anything we missed/would like to revisit in County Clare; stay in Doolin. (though we hear that Doolin will be both full and nuts! in August...should we stay in Ennis again?) This could be a less scheduled day and will break up drive from Galway to Dingle. * This would be the day for Loop Head. Do not backtrack to Doolin. Maybe you should consider overnighting Kilrush or Ballybunion.
8/25 Drive Loop Head, then Killimer/Tarbert ferry to head to Dingle. Stay in Dingle. * See comment above.
8/26 Dingle Peninsula/Connor's Pass/Slea Head. Stay in Dingle. * Fine.
8/27 Leaving Dingle, visit Killarney (ever so briefly? it will be August, after all, and a little too crazy?), Killarney National Park/Gap of Dunloe, Muckross House; stay in Kenmare. * The Gap of Dunloe tour lasts the better part of the day. Better to skip that and do the rest.
8/28 See anything we feel we've missed in KNP and perhaps Ring of Beara. Not intending to do the entire ROK. Stay in Kenmare. * See what you want in Killarney on previous day. I highly recommend the Beara Peninsula especially during the season. You will avoid all the tour buses on the ROK and get in lots of great Irish scenery.
8/29 Drive through West Cork - Bantry, Skibbereen, Baltimore, and on to Kinsale by evening. Stay in Kinsale. * Fine. A long day so get an early start.
8/30 Relaxing day in Kinsale, perhaps a trip to Cobh. Stay in Kinsale. * Fine. There is a ferry to Cobh that avoids Cork.
8/31 Last day in Ireland - drive through Cahir to Rock of Cashel. Stay in Bunratty at Dunaree or Park B & B, dinner at Durty Nellie's, OR stay in Ennis once again for last night at Cruise's Pub. This would make 3 one-night stays in Ennis for this trip! * Depends on what time your flight is as to whether to stay in Bunratty or Ennis. If you plan on dinner at Durty Nelly's then Bunratty makes more sense as an overnight.
As for your dilemma of fitting in Connemara, you could skip Loop Head or you could skip the Aran Islands. There are always trade-offs to be made with any trip.
Thank you so much, Michele, for your detailed reply. You've given us wonderful information and ideas we hadn't thought of! Here's what I'm wondering (any and all opinions welcomed!) - if it comes to that, would you go for a night in Westport rather than a night in Ennis? This would mean eliminating the Loop Head drive, which is not a big issue for me...but Michele pointed out that even if we spent our first night in Ennis, we'll be too tired for the pubs, and having thought it over, she is right of course! So we may not end up with an (awake) evening there.
We could drive from Sligo area to Westport on 8/22, giving ourselves some leeway to stay longer in the day in Sligo or leave early for Westport.
8/23 Connemara drive to Galway (understanding some backtracking would probably be involved)
8/24 Arans, stay in Galway again
8/25 drive to Dingle via Killimer-Tarbert ferry (long driving day with some stops along the way)
continue with rest of itinerary
We could stay in Ennis for our last night in Ireland, on 8/31, if we didn't mind being a bit further away than Bunratty. Do you recommend a night in Ennis?
I've enjoyed reading others' postings and have learned so much...I'm looking forward to Melissa5's trip report, since I feel we've all planned it with her!
Your new plan is doable. What time is your flight from Shannon? Ennis can be a traffic bottleneck and slow going during rush hours. Let me know when your flight is so I can answer you about where to spend your last night.