Hi all! We are preparing for our first trip to Ireland in June and I have most of the details squared away. I was wondering if anyone could spare a moment to look over the itinerary and let me know if there are any recommended tweaks or additions we should make :) Here's what we have so far:
June 9th - Arrive in Shannon from Paris (we'll have just ended 4 days in London and 4 in Paris) around 6pm. Pick up car from Dan Dooley and drive out to Ballyvaughan. We are staying 2 nights at Cappabhaile House. Getting in late so we'll prolly just get some dinner on the way to Ballyvaughan, get settled and maybe go look for some music and fun at some local pubs.
June 10 - Have a 10am guided tour through the Burren by Shane Connolly, last 3-4 hours. Was thinking afterward we could go see Ailwee Caves, the Perfumery, maybe the Burren Center. Get cleaned up at the B&B then head out to Dunguaire for a show at the Castle
June 11 - Coastal drive from Ballyvaughan to Castlemaine. Staying 2 nights at Tom and Eileen's Farmhouse. Plan is to pick up picnic supplies at Burren Smokehouse and then start driving along coast, taking in Cliffs of Moher, Loop Head, Killimer-Tarbert ferry, then arriving in Castemaine. It's a long drive I know, especially if we stop at the Cliffs and Loops Head. Anything else we shouldn't miss on the way down?
June 12 - We want to see Killarney National Park area, namely Muckross House, Torc Waterfall, and the combined hike from Kate Kearney's cottage thru the Gap of Dunloe to the boat tour thru the lakes and tour of Ross castle. Can all this be done in one day? We are also considering changing things up and leaving KNP as a day trip from Dingle (have 3 nights there), and instead heading out from here to Adare/Glin Castle/ King John's Castle or other sights nearby OR maybe even trying to get to Rock of Cashel. Would that be too crazy to do as a daytrip from Castlemaine?
June 13 - Head to Dingle town for 3 nights at Cill Bhreac B&B. Thinking of hitting Tralee and seeing Kerry Kingdom on way in to Dingle. Then spend the day relaxing around town, maybe go see Fungie, shop, play golf etc. Basically relax after all driving of previous day.
June 14 + 15 - Want to do drive of the peninsula, do one of the Sciuird 2 hour historical/archeological tours and potentially day trip out to KNP if we skipped it on the 12th.
June 16 - Head over to Bunratty for 1 night at Innisfree B&B. Want to check out the Folk Park and Castle. Thoughts on what to hit on the way to Bunratty?
June 17 - fly back to Boston from Shannon airport :(
Deros Tours offers the Gap of Dunloe tour, which includes the jaunting car and the boat ride. They have it listed as taking some 6+ hours. If you were to walk it, I think its 7 miles. So I don't think you can do that on the same day as Muckross House and Torc Waterfall.
China Cat is correct that the Gap of Dunloe Tour takes the better part of a day. Had you thought of staying in Killarney instead of Castlemaine? You could take a day from Dingle and add it to the Killarney area instead so you can get in all of your proposed sightseeing. I would not recommend doing Adare/Glin Castle/King John's Castle or Rock of Cashel from Castlemaine.
Thanks for the responses! Hmm...I'm thinking that maybe we'll leave the Rock of Cashel for our next trip then and give Killarney two days instead of just one. Thanks for the tip about Deros Tours China Cat! So difficult to pare sights out...we just want to see everything :)
Yeah, I'm thinking now that we should have just booked a B&B in Killarney, but we were trying to make the drive down from Ballyvaughan (taking the long coastal route) a bit shorter, while still having easy access to Killarney and Dingle, and at the time I had read some negative reviews about Killarney in Rick Steve's guidebook and some other areas on the web (nothing horrible, just that it was too touristy and crowded). I've heard good things too, since then so have nothing against staying there. Do you think it would be too late to do so?
Funny thing about Rick Steves' Ireland book is that he frequently laments the "touristy" nature of many Irish destinations, yet his book pretty much sticks to the tourist strongholds without covering as many off-the-beaten path sites as some of his other guidebooks. It's a catch-22.
Killarney can be your hub for a variety of different experiences, so although the town may be driven by the almighty tourist euro, many destinations nearby are popular because they are beautiful or interesting...not because of their plastic shamrock shops and "staged" Irish experiences. Staying a bit out of town, can help reduce tourist overload as well.
I think your itinerary looks pretty good, but don't be surprised if you only hit a few of the items on your list for each day.
You might like one of Michele's favorite places to stay in the Killarney area: Loch Lein. http://www.lochlein.com I stayed there last summer and everything about it was great: beautiful location on a tiny lane by Loch Lein with a view across to the mountains; large beautiful rooms; great (and I do mean great!) food; and wonderful host and hostess. It's quiet and serene, but you're maybe 5 miles from downtown Killarney.
I think Rick Steves doesn't know jack about Ireland, but that's just me ..... I'd stick with some of the online sites and some of the other guide books. Personally, I like Frommer's, and Lonely Planet's not bad either. I even liked Ireland for Dummies before my first visit.
Well all I can say is that I'm glad I found places like this where I could learn more about great places to see in Ireland. Can't believe all the stuff I'd have missed out on if I'd just stuck to the Rick Steves Guide! I'm so looking forward to my time around KNP!
Regarding lodging, I think I found someplace. I contacted Killarney Lodge and Ross Castle Lodge but the first was way out of our price range and the second was all booked up. We want to stay in walking distance to downtown, which puts Lock Lein out of the running, (we'll be getting lots of quiet time in Dingle and Ballyvaughan so don't mind a bit of hustle and bustle here). I read some good reviews online for Kingfisher Lodge, right in town and the cost was only 84 euros for both of us per night. Really hoping we made a good choice heh. Has anyone here heard of it?
One more question, which may be silly hehe. If we wanted to book the Gap of Dunloe tour etc (or other things like Dunguaire Castle while in Ballyvaughan), would we contact the B&B now to let them know what we want to do, or do most folks wait till they get there? I don't want to pester people, but don't want to miss out on activities either.
I agree with everyone that Rick Steves' Ireland book is a bit limited. I think he probably devotes more time to mainland Europe and Ireland is an afterthought. You might also enjoy my book: http://www.irelandyes.com/book.html
You can book the Gap of Dunloe tour here: http://www.derostours.com/ This can also be booked on arrival.
You can book Dunguaire by emailing: reservations@shannondev.ie Book any banquet ASAP as they are very popular!
I am not familiar with Kingfisher Lodge. Others within walking distance of Killarney that I recommend are Ashville, Chelmsford, Applecroft, Earl's Court, Fair View.
As always, you've gotten some great advice. The Rick Steves tour of Dingle get's some high marks, but upon reflection, the Beehive huts that he points out may be among the fake ones. Let us know what you learn from the archeological tour although I may do one myself when I am there just before you.
Michele is absolutely correct about booking the Dunguaire banquet especially since you will be doing it on a Saturday. They tend to fill up quickly. One other note, unless things have changed (an it would surprise me) the cost of the Deros tour does not include the jaunting car ride which can be pretty pricey. It's not inappropriate to try to get a better deal from the individual drivers. You can hike the trail too but keep track of the time as you do it. You wouldn't want to miss the boat back which is VERY memorable. You can do Ross Castle at the end of the Gap trip as that's where the boats drop you.
Dero's Tours now has an all-inclusive price for coach, pony & trap, and boat for 47 euro. http://www.derostours.com/rates.html It is only 20 euro more than waking and might be good for those who are bargaining impaired.
I hadn't realized that they had done that. It's a pretty good price for a group of two, not so good for a group of four. From what I could tell when I was there, the guys selling the trap rides were concerned about the price for the trip, not the number of passengers. Now, if you are a group of two that gets teamed up with another group of two, well that's a different story. Sort of like showing up with a twosome on Labor Day weekend at a golf course and not expecting to get paired. It might depend on when you are traveling.
Bill
PS: Thanks for the link Michele! I was honored to see me on your page. I'll have another one this year that will include a trip to Switzerland. Here is my Ireland itinerary:
Two days Kilkenny, three days in Dunmore East, two days in Baltimore, three days in Kenmare (I must do the Skelligs), two days with Annette in Dingle, two days north of Galway visiting friends and 2 days in Howth. I'll have a laptop with me for the 1st time so I should be able to take good notes. I think it's time for some more of my ridiculous B&B reviews.
In case anyone is interested, Switzerland will be first and last night near Zurich, four days in Lauterbrunnen and two days in Luzerne.
Wow, so much great information! You all have been a huge help, thank you! Can't wait to read your trip reports Bill. I will definitely post one on our return and will let you know what we thought of the archaeology tour in Dingle. Hmm...I'll like the sound of that Deros Tours package, as I am in fact bargaining impaired hehe. My only concern is the one Bill raised, that if we got paired with another couple, it isn't as good a deal. We'll see.
-Tara
ps - I did actually get your book Michele, and it has been a great resource! I've been thinking about getting your coupon package too. Based on the activities we plan to do, do you think there are a good amount that would be useful to us?
so do they really have one trap and pony to pull 4 people on the gap tours?
we're planning to do this with 3 of us, and, well frankly none of us is what you would call small. I'm having a hard time imagining 1 pony dragging us up a mountain.
pricewise, if we are 3, should we leave it to last minute bargaining, or go with Deros?
Your itinerary looks great. Yes, you will have to critique the B&Bs again. Let's see...you did the Toilet Paper Reviews. Now you must think up something else equally as wacky.
When you are in Kilkenny you really must take the R700 scenic drive to Inistioge. What a cute town. Take stale bread from breakfast to feed the ducks on the river. Then do Mount Sandford Walk up to Woodstock Gardens or if you are feeling lazy drive up (but there is a parking charge). Graiguenamanagh is a nice town too with Duiske Abbey a must see. Did you download Corey's Kilkenny Walking Tour? Kells is also a must. If you go via Callan you can see The Mills, which are very scenic. But park at the second mill.
In Dunmore East you must do Hook Head & lighthouse. Kilmore Quay is a cute town with lots of thatched cottages and a lightship musuem. Also boat trips to the Saltee Islands.
I hope the weather cooperates for your trip to Skellig Michael. We will look forward to some heavenly photos of that.
Take a look at my "Discounts" page since it will tell you all the places you can use the coupons. It is newly updated to reflect the 2006 discounts and has a whole long list. If you are going to be visiting two or three of the 2-for-1 sights then the coupon pack will pay for itself and then some. It also gives discounts at various shops like Bunratty Village Mills, Christies, Blarney Woolen Mills, etc.
It is just one horse hauling everyone (including the driver). If there are three of you and you can negotiate you might be better off doing that. Just keep asking things like "How much?" "Is that euros?" "Is that the best you can do?" "How about _____ instead?"
You can choose from various package tours of the Gap of Dunloe www.derostours.com One includes bus to the gap, the pony trap ride, boat ride and bus back to starting point. If you don't want the one that includes the trap ride you can just do the bus and boat. In that case you can negotiate the price for the trap ride upon arrival at the gap. You can also walk or ride a horse. I understand that on some of the steeper parts of the ride you must get out and walk up the hills so that the horse and trap can make it. I did the horseback riding through the gap many moons ago. Last time I drove it in the off-off season. But driving it is not advisable during the season.
We did the pony trap ride into the Gap last April. It was great --- our group of 11 were the only visitors there! I don't think I've laughed that much in a long time.
However, to address your question about the number of people the horse can pull. First, it's a horse, not a pony, even though they call them "pony traps." We had four in our cart and believe me, none of us would be mistaken for "petite" (and we've already established elsewhere that I'm out-of-shape and need to exercise ). Oh heck, let's not beat around the bush: we were four of the largest people in the group.
I really felt very sorry for poor old Bosco, but he managed just fine --- it's not all uphill and it's not steep, it's gradual --- even when the driver also rode part of the time on the back of the cart!
We stopped about half way through and I asked the driver if I could give Bosco a couple of apples (I always have a couple in my backpack) for extra energy. He didn't mind and Bosco loved them! I felt a little less guilty after that .....
So, I think you'll be just fine with three. I wish now I had had some sugar cubes .......
Maggie, thanks! you've set my mind more at ease. I'm really looking forward to doing the Gap tour. Also, I think my mom will be glad to know its not too steep.