Dear Forum Friends,

Here is my trip report:

We landed in Dublin in the morning of Sunday, April 9th and soon after storing our bags at JurysInn Christchurch, went to the Dublinia exhibit, which is housed in the former priory attached to Christ Church Cathedral itself.  The exhibits were well done, and we were immediately steeped in the medieval, Viking and earlier history of Dublin.  Christ Church Cathedral is beautiful, interesting with crypts downstairs, and we were lucky to hear the choir rehearsing (beautiful).  Checked into the JurysInn which was comfortable, not fancy, but everything we needed, just as Michele predicted; and, best of all, right in the City Centre.  In the evening we strolled around town, then went to Temple Bar and ate at the wonderful Gallagher’s Boxty House, hoisted our Guinesses to a happy time together (daughter’s case, diet coke), then took our weary jet-lagged selves back to the hotel and early rest.

MONDAY we found a delightful breakfast spot—-you go out JurysInn front door to the right, make first right down a steep street and almost immediately come upon a place called Applewoods Cafe.  Much better food and better prices than the hotels.  Then we excitedly took ourselves to the meeting point for the 1916 Rising Tour, conducted by Mr. Lorcan Collins.  Lorcan is passionate about the meaning of the rising, very knowledgeable about the facts of it and the patriots who took part, and very funny and entertaining as well.  It moved me to the core to be at the statue of James Connolly, across from Liberty Hall (built on the site of the original) and at the GPO where so much of the great fight took place.

Following this, the Writers Museum was great.  Then we hopped on the Hop-On Hop-Off bus.  Plenty of fun there, you get to rest while getting an overview of the city.  Soon, as you may suppose, we hopped off!  We ate a snack in a moderate salad/panini/quiche/muffin/scone type of place called Keogh’s (just off Dame Street, not far from former Parliament) which we liked enough to go back next day for breakfast, then went to the beginning point of the MUSICAL PUB CRAWL!!! (Yes, my daughter’s age escaped attention, as hoped.  No, she got no beer)  We loved the Musical Pub Crawl.  Different musicians conduct it on different nights.  We got Joe (guitar) and Dierdre (fiddle) and they were great!  They played with such authenticity and sincerity and love!  And the music they played was so beautiful; lively and dark, jaunty and heart-wrenching.  This was a real highlight.

TUESDAY after revisiting Keogh’s, were very impressed with the Book of Kells and the monks who created it so long ago, as well as the long room of the library.  We picked up our rented car at Dan Dooley, parked near hotel, then hopped on the bus again to the Guinness Storehouse tour, which was fun and very interesting, including great views of Dublin (and a nice glass of Guinness to go with it).

Now comes the one true downer of our whole trip: Tuesday night we went to the “Taylor’s Irish Night” at Taylor’s Three Rock restaurant, a little outside of Dublin.  The best thing about it was that I got a little left-side driving practice before a bigger drive the following day.  But the combined show and dinner I DO NOT recommend.  I would not have minded the tough steak or the skimpy dessert if the show had been better.  But the musical act, The Merry Ploughboys, though clearly very capable musicians, were not sincere and just cranked out a loud, high-energy barrage of Irish “classics” such as Molly Malone and Finnegan’s Wake—great songs, don’t get me wrong, but played in a way that just said to me “push this stuff out there and these ignorant tourists won’t know the difference between what we give them and real Irish music played with real heart and soul.”  I felt patronized and simply did not enjoy the sounds they made.  The best part was the middle part; a performance by very good dancers who danced to (recorded) Irish music.  The Merry Ploughboys had promised to return, but we saw no reason to remain.  This dinner show is heavily advertised all over Dublin.  I say avoid it.

WEDNESDAY we got an early start and drove south into County Wicklow and started getting our first sight of the beautiful Irish countryside, of which so much more was to come.   Arrived at Glendalough and were deeply affected by both the beauty of the valley itself and the historic meaning of Saint Kevin’s life and also the monastery and community that thrived there so long ago, as well as the fascinating ruins.  Stopped at a nice pub on the highway, looks like its pretty well known, called Jack White’s, for lunch, which was good.

Then on to Dungarvan, County Waterford, where my grandfather was born, and grandmother’s ancestors were also from.  Friendly workers at the parish church helped me find baptismal records of my grandfather and all his siblings and to learn where they lived, above my great-grandfather’s shoemaking shop (now a bank).  This was a very big experience for me, which I will never forget, and glad my wife and daughter shared.  We also met John and Onra Fennell, to whom I am sure I’m related somehow, and we stayed one night at their very nice bed-and-breakfast, The Mapleleaf, just outside of Dungarvan.  Dungarvan is a very pretty and scenic fishing village at the mouth of a river.  It was something to see it looking so pleasant and to think of my great-grandparents feeling so desperate that they had to leave for America sometime around 1890.

THURSDAY we drove up the Vee Drive (thanks Michele) which was absolutely beautiful and visited both the Rock of Cashel and Cahir Castle, which were both amazing.  All three of us loved the endless green pastures and all the sheep and cattle we saw along so many roads in Ireland. We were pleased also, that we came in a time of year where so many baby sheep and cattle were there in the fields, too.  My daughter Sara, the official trip photographer, was particularly thrilled.

This night we began our three-night stay at Killarney Lodge, and everything Michele has said about this wonderful accommodation and the Treacy’s who operate it is absolutely true!  Comfortable, enjoyable, great breakfast, very thoughtful hosts.

FRIDAY we drove the spectacular Ring of Kerry, and it was, well, Spectacular!  We enjoyed visiting the Skellig experience center (forget exactly what it’s called) and learning about the amazing monastic settlement on Skellig Michael.  We ate at Foley’s in Kenmare, and the food and service were very good.  Best stew I ever ate.

We were very happy with how the weather turned out, overall.  We had some clouds and some rain, but never enough to cut into our enjoyment, and often very dramatic and enjoyable in itself.  It was generally quite cool, especially in the East, and actually mild a lot of the time in the West.

SATURDAY we drove the Dingle Peninsula, starting on the north shore by way of Tralee, then through the Connor Pass to Dingle and beyond.  This, as most of you know, is one of the truly gorgeous places on this Earth.  The Blasket Island Interactive center is not to be missed.

BIG BONUS: we went to a Van Morrison concert at the Glen Eagle hotel in Killarney, only having learned about it the day before from a couple from Florida, and he and his band were great!  One of Ireland’s greatest exports on his home turf!

EASTER SUNDAY up the coast to Galway we go, by way of the Shannon Ferry and Cliffs of Moher.  If, outside of the summer High Season, we could have picked a more crowded day to visit the cliffs, I don’t know what it could have been.  This was in the middle of a big four-day bank holiday weekend, and many Irish people were there along with people like us from all over the world.  Anyhow, when we finally parked, we did see the cliffs, and they were worth every bit of traffic and more!  Enjoying it along with a multitude of people was fine.  In fact if the vow-renewers want to renew their vows with half of humanity present, why not?  I took a local vendor’s friendly advice and backtracked through Ennis enroute to Galway, because the traffic heading north was at a standstill.  No problem. A call to Margaret Walsh at Lawndale b&b (thanks again Michele) just to let her know we’d be getting in late put my mind at ease.  Galway Bay was lovely.  The pubs were jammed, so we ate at a nice restaurant whose name is escaping me.  A little disappointed in Monroe’s pub.  The sign outside said “Traditional Irish Music Nightly” and inside the duo was playing “Proud Mary” and other American stuff.  But we enjoyed walking around the town.

MONDAY: Connemara is beautiful in a different way from ROK and Dingle.  More desolate.  At Mamm Cross, we stopped at the petrol station/convenience store and, on the way to the toilet which was next-door, stumbled upon a pony fair!  A real country experience.  Kylemore Abbey was, of course, beautiful as was the whole drive.

In the evening, second try at the Galway pubs.  We heard a wonderful traditional Irish trio in Tig Coili: banjo, flute (pipe?) and bodhran.  They were great.  Made up for previous evening and then some.

TUESDAY we visit Kinvara and Dunguarie Castle.  Once again, amazing.  We drove out to Doolin, which is charming, and had a really great lunch at Gus O’Connor’s.  In the afternoon we checked into Eden Hill House, which is a bed and breakfast just a couple miles outside of Ennis.  It’s very quiet, situated on a horse farm with a big, green lawn in front.  It was very clean and comfortable and the breakfast was good, but I have to say that to me it was a little too quiet.  The proprietor, Maureen Moran is friendly, although very quiet and recessive herself, and accommodating to every request we made.  She very nicely allowed us to visit the horse barn which included a mother and her six-week old foal.

That night we struck it rich in the Traditional music department as a gathering of seven musicians played at Cruise’s pub in Ennis.  They were really great!!

WEDNESDAY morning Ennis town was very charming to visit, including the Ennis Friary (accepts Heritage Card) which was very interesting.  This was a wonderful sunny day, perfect for visiting Bunratty Folk Park, which we enjoyed very much.  It was much more laid back and authentic and well done than I expected.  Some of you remember my big debate about the Medieval banquet.  I want to say I really respect the input I got from Michele and forum members, because it provided me with an accurate picture.  Yes, it was “stagey” but also, yes, the singers and musicians were very fine, and we had a load of fun.

Oh, my friends, the next day we had to leave.  Know what I mean?

It was a wonderful trip.  We loved it.  I’m sure there is so much more I could say.

One more note: I am a student of Aesthetic Realism, the philosophy founded by the American poet and educator, Eli Siegel.  It is based on the following principles: Every person’s deepest desire is to like the world.  The interference to that desire, also in every person, is the desire for contempt, the hope to get a “false importance or glory from the lessening of things not oneself.”  And the third principle is this: “All beauty is a making one of opposites, and the making one of opposites is what we are going after in ourselves.”

This education changed my life, made me happy.  For anyone interested, more can be seen at AestheticRealism.org

I’m mentioning it because, as people on the forum have got to know me somewhat, I didn’t want such a big thing about me to be left unsaid.

Thank you Michele and friends again and again for all the good advice and good wishes.  I’m sure you will be hearing from me again.