IC's 2024 Do As I Say – Not As I Do Tour

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

IC's 2024 Do As I Say – Not As I Do Tour

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Day 3 17 July

We enjoyed a fairly leisurely start to our day, as we were booked for a 10 AM departure on the ferry from Kilrush Marina which is less than a 20 minute drive from Kilkee. Even then, we still managed to arrive almost 30 minutes early. The morning was cool (borderline COLD) and gray, holding forth a constant threat of rain but fortunately, it remained just that, only a threat. The boat ride was uneventful if a bit blustery and chill but, I was quite thrilled to be aboard. This was my fourth attempted to visit the island's Round Tower, so any success was a pleasant surprise.

Once ashore, we enjoyed a free guided tour that included the very knowledgeable guide, a Secondary teacher from Athlone, his non-Irish wife, my wife and I. The guide took great joy in teasing and testing me over my Round Tower obsession until I rattled him by mentioning the rather obscure theories exposed by Dr. Phillip S. Callahan:

The Round Towers of Ireland (sacredsites.com)

Our guide seemed to take particular umbridge over Callahan's suggestion that the locations of the various Round Towers closely mimic a star map of Irish northern skies during the winter solstice. Still, the visit, though cold, remained dry and the Round Tower visit was everything I had hoped it would be.

After the tour, we wandered through the restored buildings and hiked part of the way out toward the lighthouse where we passed out and back, carefully and quietly through an area of ground nesting kestrel. Both the guide and numerous warning signs advised that the birds were fiercely protective of their nests and not to be disturbed. We heeded that advice and never saw any sign of either the birds, or their nests.

Once we returned to the harbor, we were advised that our return trip would be delayed by 15 minutes or so and one of the other guides offered to provide us with a cup of tea. When my wife inquired if the island offered any concession selling snacks, one of the gentlemen brought her half of a ham sandwich from his lunch. She declined but was truly touched by the man's kind hospitality!

Following an uneventful return to Kilrush, I drove along the N67 but rather than follow the turn toward the Tarbert Ferry, I continued straight on the R486. The drive alongside the north side of the Shannon was quite pleasant.

Despite the still cloudy skies, it had warmed, a bit, and feeling a bit peckish the declined sandwich notwithstanding! I opted for a stop in Knock, at Rosie's By The Quay a small, pink food truck (trailer, actually) that rests on the concrete forecourt of the owner's home, directly opposite the harbor and dock at the apex of the estuary. There are a couple of pink picnic tables about, as well as an ample side garden for seating and resting. On offer was hot chocolate, tea, coffee, scones, cakes and toasties.

Back on the road, I followed along the R 486 until its end at the junction of the R473. Turning East, we followed along the riverbank until it intersected with the N85, just outside of Ennis. We followed it to the M18 and headed North (toward Galway), then followed the M6 to the M4 toward Dublin and our prebooked lodgings at the Clayton Dublin Airport Hotel.

More to come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Some Notes and Additions

While I was waiting in the car, in Knock, I perused the Tucson's Owners Manual and discovered a warning light concerning the need to add a diesel additive known as Bluedef. This was a totally alien concept to me. Apparently, If you ignore the red light and don't refill the DEF tank, the engine's power is reduced, and the speed will be decreased to a snail's pace. I honestly didn't notice the light until we were leaving Kilrush, so I have no idea when it first came on, but I was later informed that the separate tank needs refilling roughly every 3-500 miles. Clearly, someone failed to properly prep the vehicle prior to turning it over to me. Since I planned to have a conversation with Euopcar the following morning at the Dublin airport (and the vehicle was running fine), I decided to press on.

The Clayton Hotel ( $198.54 per night -- although I used CC points, instead) was VERY nice Clean and spacious and staffed by very friendly and efficient staff. It was also VERY crowded and I was rather shocked that not only was there an additional charge to park, the cost for parking is reputedly 13 Euro per day. After staying overnight I was charged 26 Euro ($29.57)! Since I also planned to stay there again, at the end of our trip, I decided that I would most definitely plan to return the car and use the free shuttle then.

When I visited the rental counter at the airport, I received the same explanation as to vehicle choice as the lot person in Shannon gave and was advised that I could either 'swing by' the Europcar depot to have the BlueDef tank refilled, or I could pay to have it refilled and receive a refund upon presenting a receipt when I returned the car.

When our travel partners arrived, they had one gigantic, hard sided, 4 wheeled checked bag, a hard sided, 4 wheel carry on bag and two backpacks. It was a struggle to add those to our 30 soft-sided rolling duffle bag, one soft sided 20 carry on and two small backpacks. Eventually, my packing skills made everything fit (barely), but on my first attempt, two of the backpacks had to share the fortunately spacious back seat.

Weather over the course of the entire trip tended to be cool. For us Florida folk, it was usually sweater and coat required. It rained lightly at some point, pretty much every day either in the early morning, or late afternoon but was mostly dry, if not particularly sunny, the majority of the time.

-- Edited by Itallian Chauffeur on Thursday 19th of September 2024 03:05:09 PM

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Day 4 18 July

After collecting our companions, my unsatisfying discussion and cramming our combined luggage into every nook and cranny of the Tucson, we set off from the airport in light rain, somewhere around 10:30 AM. We made our first stop into the Silken Thomas, in Kildare for a delightful light lunch. I also took the opportunity to visit the nearby BOI ATM Cash Point, to draw off 260 Euro. I KNOW that the Card is King now, but I've always been a Cash First person!

I also stopped into a Service Plaza further on, trying to locate some of the elusive BlueDef, but I could only find large bottles for roughly 20 Euro. Since I had NO idea exactly how much was needed and was certain that I would need to produce the remaining amount and I had no room to stash the huge bottle I decided to wait until later. That actually proved to be fortuitous.

SIL A had booked a AirB&B for us, located in Watergrasshill. It was a three bedroom, 2 ½ bath semi-detached house, complete with washer and dryer. All in, I believe she paid just under $800 four our four nights. Whilst not perfect, it was the ideal location and we were very pleased with the amenities and I would not hesitate to book in there again, if in need of an extended stay.

3 bedroom home 18km from Cork City - Houses for Rent in Priory Court, County Cork, Ireland - Airbnb

Shortly after we arrived, Cousin 'N' dropped by and insisted on taking us to dinner at a nearby restaurant where my wife and I enjoyed two most excellent steaks smothered in onions, served with a tasty pepper sauce. Despite advising the wait staff that only I should be presented the bill, I can't say how much the dinner cost as Cousin 'N' usurped my directive. The waitress advised that she had been a long-term employee of 'N' and she admired, respected and feared her wrath MUCH more than mine!

Back at the house, we visited for a while before 'N' departed after advising that we were expected for a pizza dinner at her sister's house the following afternoon / evening. Shortly after she left, my wife (who has a history of severe gastrointestinal issues) developed stomach crams and nausea that persisted for several hours. She was convinced that it stemmed from the delicious, but somewhat greasy fried onions. Between that and our travel companion's jet lag, we made an early night of it and hoped for the better, on the morrow.

Day 5 19 July

My wife rested poorly through the night and awoke feeling better, but weak and exhausted. She opted to relax at the house, while I brought the SILs into Cork to shop, visit the English Market and just do a bit of a 'walkabout'.

I parked at the Q Park (11.7 Euro ) and the ladies seemed quite impressed by our leisurely tour of the English Market. They also purchased a few Cork-centric items (mostly, a scarf and some shirts) and I bought a Cork flag. This was just a couple of days prior to the scheduled All-Ireland Hurling Final between Cork and Clare, so there were LOTS of wares on offer. We grabbed a quick lunch at a pub nearby and departed around 3 PM.

Back at the house, my wife was feeling better but decided to not take a chance on the scheduled pizza dinner and decided to stay behind determined to be 100% for the scheduled party the following evening. Thus, just the two SILs and I made the trip out to the home of Cousin 'U'. Having attended her 40^th and 50^th Birthday celebrations, I fully expected to be impressed by this, her 60^th but I have to admit that I was truly impressed (and a bit shocked!) by the immense scale of the family's preparations!

The back third of the home one acre lot had been set up as a parking area, but it also included a large rental trailer / portable his and hers toilets, complete with mirrored, dual sink counters. Across from it was a 0 or 3 foot mobile kitchen /catering truck. The walkway between them passed through a decorated arched hedge, which let to an entry into a side curtained marque (tent) that was easily 30 or 40 feet wide and 100 to 120 feet long! On the side opposite where we entered was an unwalled (curtained?) section that connected to a raised garage door within which, they had constructed a full service bar replete with two Guinness taps, a full, USA sized refrigerator filled with assorted bottled and canned beer, ciders and wine coolers as well as every type of soft drink, mixer and type of alcohol known to man (or, at least, known to ME!).

In the rear half of the tent they had constructed a raise, plywood floor that tapered down, at the midpoint where the floor became the brick paver surface. Most of this area had been filled with tables and chairs suitable to seat a small horde. To one side of the brick floor area, well beyond the bar, there was an 8 by 10 area rug, on which was located a sofa and two upholstered chairs. Along the opposite wall was a large area set up as a 'stage' for the scheduled band. Between those two areas was suitable open space for dancing and milling about. Exiting the front of the tent brought you to a paved, open courtyard, with scattered chairs and cafe tables all surrounding a massive, rectangular ( 4 X 8?) fire pit. I won't even mention all the decorations!

Tonight wasn't the party, though. It was merely a small, intimate dinner for family so, only 40 or 50 people. Everyone expressed concern about my wife but we assured them that she was, or would be fine and that she would be at the party With Bells On. Although my wife and I had visited with the Cousins the previous year, it had been about 5 years since the SILs had last been back, so there was much 'catching up' and getting reacquainted. We departed fairly early, eager to rest up and mindful of our hosts needs to do the same.

All in all, I believe that a good time was had, by all.

More to Come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Sorry, folks! Here I was finally on the road to posting a timely Trip Report -- and once again -- life (and a rather substantial Hurricane Helene!!) interrupted. We suffered fairly minimal impact, but the prep, the storm and the immediate aftermath certainly occupied much of my attention.

And now, they tell me ANOTHER is potentially in the works at the end of this week!

I'll try my best to reapply myself, but . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Day 6: 20 July

We're having a party but, first, a little touring!

In the morning, my wife recovered and all of us well rested, we decided to do a bit of exploring. We had decided that the four of us would purchase a gift card for the Fota Island Resort as a present for the Birthday Girl. Since Cousin 'N' had advised that there were two fuel companies in Midleton that had BlueDef pumps, I opted for the slightly out-of-the-way, but quite scenic ride along the R626. Just North of Midleton, I stumbled across one of them and added 10 Euro worth of the elusive fluid into the Tucson. True to the promise, the warning light immediately extinguished and I never saw it illuminate again.

After our stop into Fota where a suitable gift card was secured, we headed into Cobh and found it to be surprisingly crowded. I just managed to find an available parking space well down Lynch's Quay (about 500 meters from town center which is the first time that we have found the town to be so busy. We meandered through town, checking out a few shops and past the ubiquitous vendors selling Cork flags, hats and shirts. With only two days to go before the All Ireland, they were numerous and rather raucous!

We enjoyed lunch at the Commodore Hotel and then drifted across the street to the park, to listen to the live music performance by Brian O'Glanby. After returning to the car, I drove up past and above the Cathedral and the ladies popped out to secure pictures of the Deck Of Cards' houses. Moving on, I stopped to add 71.2 Euro worth of diesel (39.36 Ltr @ 1.809 Euro per litre) and again, for exterior photos of the delightfully restored Belvelly Castle. Since we didn't need to be at the cousin's until 5 PM, we used the remaining time to do a bit of laundry and get ready.

THE PARTY! In brief, as 'twas not exactly a touristic experience but interesting, nonetheless!

We were some of the first to arrive and discovered the scene even more decorated than it had been the night before which was no small feat! A Full Mass was said in the house, partly in Memorial to those that were no longer present. There were two priests that officiated and those crowded in could have easily filled a moderate sized church. After the Mass, everyone filtered into the Marquee and a professional photographer proceeded to take charge. Shortly after, the caterers set up two long buffet/carvery tables and people lined up for what proved to be a delicious meal. FYI There was a four tiered shelving nit that was heavily loaded with every sort of desert imaginable including two huge, deep bowls overflowing with sweets that delighted the younger children in attendance.

After most of the meal was completed, a live band took to the stage and the roughly 200 250 attendees ate, drank and made merry. As mentioned earlier, the day had been clear and dry so, naturally, around 8 or 9 PM, rain began to fall. That barely impacted either the crowd, nor the festivities, though.

About 1 AM, when the band was packing up (but before the scheduled DJ made his appearance), we valiant few, we aged Yanks, we less than hearty revelers, made our departure after making plans to return, on the morrow for a tiny bit less hectic visit and to watch the much heralded All Ireland Hurling Final on the television in the company of rabid Cork fans.

Day 7: 21 July

We spent a leisurely morning doing laundry and organizing our luggage for our impending departure before arriving at the Cousin's home. We helped with some of the tear down folding and stacking tables and chairs, removing light strings from the tent rafters, removing assorted decorations and general clean up. Others set up a large screen television in the area previously set aside for the band. As the final showdown between Clare and Cork took place on Sunday, July 21 at 3:30 PM in Croke Park, cellular broadband was utilized to live stream the match with few (and thankfully, brief) connectivity issues.

Of course, Clare won the final by a single point in Extra Time much to the anguish and chagrin of the viewing fans but the results remained in doubt right up to the last moments, 329 to 134 . That's 38 37 for us Yanks. It was certainly an exciting and informative experience, proving how people can be so different, yet so similar, at the same time!

After many conversations, much eating and many hugs and hearty handshakes, we departed around 9 PM. There was still much packing and organizing to do prior to our scheduled departure the following morning with a longish day's travel planned.

It was time to play Tourist!

More to come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Sitting "Hunkered Down" as Hurricane Milton has Venice/Sarasota in its sites. All my prep work is complete, so there's nothing left to do but wait. Seemed like an excellent time to reflect and reminisce so as to distract myself from what may or may not happen!

Day 8: 22 July

Route Map: https://maps.app.goo.gl/JgtJGEpScQK6bHYd7

I was able to very creatively load up our luggage so that everything fit under the slightly bulged cargo cover at the rear of the Tucson. It was no small feat. We set out on our journey around 9:30 AM and followed a circuitous route over mostly 'N' and 'R' roads that brought us to our first stop of the day at the Grange Stone Circle, near Lough Gur. It was our first revisit since a cold, wet and dreary February, in 2002. As the morning was dry, with patches of blue sky, it was too good of an opportunity to pass up as well as providing the perfect, 'stretch-your-legs' opportunity. We had the site entirely to ourselves.

Grange Stone Circle: A Place of Ritual Gatherings, Sacrifice and Worship from Prehistoric Times to the Modern Day | Ancient Origins (ancient-origins.net)

From there, I drove up to, and across the bridge twixt Ballina and Killaloe to provide our companions with a 'taste of Lough Derg. Our next stop was in Scarriff, for a quick foray into a shop for drinks, followed by a longer stop into the Marina, in Mountshannon.-- where the public toilets were greatly appreciated by all.

Our next stop was in Portumna, where we enjoyed a light lunch at Modena:

Modena Restaurant | Take Away Menu Online

Although it is an Indian Restaurant, we merely opted for burgers (which were quite lovely!), but they were very busy on a Monday afternoon with what appeared to be mostly local clientele. My wife and I had eaten there on a previous trip and I would definitely return.

Back on the road, we continued North, passing around Ballinasloe, Athlone and Roscommon as the weather was beginning to deteriorate and the day was beginning to slip away. We had covered much of this route on our last visit with our companions, in 2019, so they didn't feel short changed.

I did make a slow drive through Boyle, including a brief stop into the overlook alongside of the Chieftain Sculpture as one of the SIL's is a huge fan of Moone Boy. It was starting to rain at this point, though as opposed to just being a bit Soft so I didn't stop again until we arrived at The Address Hotel, in Sligo.

Equestrian statue of Gaelic Chieftain in Boyle Ireland

It was raining when I parked at the front of the hotel to check in and off-load my passengers and our small bags (since we were only staying overnight) and then drove to the Glasshouse Hotel's underground parking garage. The Address (previously, the Sligo City Hotel) had only reopened a couple of week's prior and their small lot was unavailable as it was partly filled with construction vehicles and equipment due to ongoing remodeling. The hotel was nice enough and although they do still have a few rough edges to smooth off, I'm confident that will happen. I would return. I used CC 'Points for our stay but believe SILs paid around 155 Euro for their room.

We ate in the attached restaurant a decent, but not particularly remarkable meal and after, given the rather dreary weather and that we four had based in Sligo on a previous visit, the ladies opted to retire to the rooms and rest up from our previous 'Adventures'. I, other hand, grabbed an umbrella and went for a walkabout. After a fairly short time, the rain turned soft and then ended, completely. I ranged from the Famine Monument (nearby, along the river) to as far away as Sligo Abbey before returning to my room and turning in for the night.

Info: Sligo Famine Memorial (irishhistorian.com)

Visit Sligo Abbey with Discover Ireland

More To Come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Day 9: 23 July

Our Day's Route: https://maps.app.goo.gl/taxqjLe1Cw894fAY7

We rose relatively early and opted for breakfast at the hotel. I retrieved the car immediately after and we checked out and we were on the road, again by 9:00 facing another long day in the car. I made a brief stop into the car park at Drumcliffe but the delightful cafe's desserts held no appeal so shortly after breakfast, so we didn't spend any time. Again, this was still familiar territory for all. That changed, just North of Bundoran, which was the furthest that the SILs had ever previously been and that, way back, in 2002! Then, heavy rain and cold, foggy wind led us to abandon our planned itinerary, to head back, South. Today, though, the weather was quite pleasant.

I parked the Tucson in the Public Car Park just South of the Diamond and we enjoyed a 'walkabout' and a bit of shopping. It was much more crowded then I remembered it ever being, which meant dodging people's elbows and shoulders pretty much continuously. Because of that, we walked past the Castle, but didn't opt to venture in.

The Diamond Reconstructed at Donegal Town (youtube.com)

After an hour or so, we returned to the car and headed West, along the N56., and turning onto the R263, after Bruckless. I must admit that the Tucson proved to be a very comfortable vehicle once I mastered the technique for luggage storage It was comfy, spacious (passenger-wise, at least) and large, but not gigantic. If I can ever manage to convince my traveling companions to pack lighter, I would definitely enjoy renting one, again.

That being said, knowing that I had grossly over-planned this day's drive and being aware of the SILs' fitness issues (One, with a bad back and the other, a bad knee), we made a mutually agreed, Command Decision just before reaching Carrick to forget about visiting either Sliabh Liag or Glencolumbkille. Instead, I turned North on the L1125 and joined the R230 (Glengesh Pass) before rejoining the N56, just before entering Ardara.

Glengesh Pass Wild Atlantic Way Ireland Map and Guide (wildatlanticwayonline.com)

Lunch was enjoyed in Nancy's, followed by a pleasant, but relatively short 'walk-about'. Food was passable, but the quirky atmosphere is definitely a draw. Service was excellent . They were busy, but not packed.

NANCY'S, Ardara - Nancy's Bar Front St - Restaurant Reviews, Photos & Phone Number - Tripadvisor

Continuing North on the N56, I didn't detour again until reaching the R251, beyond Gweedore. This led us to the incredibly scenic, Sacred Heart Catholic Church and a fortuitous meeting with a former resident of the area that now resides in Kildare and is well acquainted with people that we know from there! We had a lovely chat and used her knowledge of the area to locate the old Church of Ireland ruin that figures so prominently in many of the Mount Errigal / Dunlewey photos. A few hours were spent!

As it was now approaching our scheduled arrival time, I headed back to the N56 and quickly made our way to our AirB&B, The Wee House, on the main street of Dunfanaghy. After receiving a quick tutorial on the operation of the assorted appliances and such, we unpacked and then set out on foot to explore the town. We ate dinner at Arnold's Hotel and then collected a few groceries at the Centra, before returning to our 'home' for the next three nights. My wife got a 'jump start' on our laundry and the SILs headed across the street to Patsy Dan's for a bit of libation.

Our accommodations: Townhouse on Dunfanaghy Main Street - Townhouses for Rent in Dunfanaghy, County Donegal, Ireland - Airbnb

Cost for three nights: $685.73 -- 633 Euro

We missed out on a fair bit of the county, but a good time was had by all!

More To Come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Day 10 24 July

We began the day with a leisurely breakfast prepared in our compact, but fully equipped kitchen and departed around 10 AM for the 21.5 Kilometer (13.4 miles) drive to the Tory Island Ferry, departing from Magheroarty Pier. We purchased tickets (28 Euro, per person) for the 11 AM departure and a scheduled return, at 3 PM. After walking out the rather long pier, we only had to wait about 10 minutes before boarding. In that, we were VERY lucky, as the boat ended up very near, or possibly at, full capacity. Some of the later arrivals needed to occupy the open air seats, rather than those within the enclosed and somewhat heated interior as the day was cool and heavily overcast. We were told later that a member of the crew said that this was the largest group so far this year.

Tory Island's Passenger Ferry | Home | Tory Ferry

The sea was calm, though and the 45 minute out-bound trip generally uneventful. After disembarking at the far end of another rather long pier and a short walk up a fairly steep incline the Tau Cross is immediately to the right. It's a truly impressive construct, made from a single piece of mica slate which is not found on the island, so must have been brought by boat, from elsewhere. It has been dated from the 12^th Century. Just a short walk further we viewed St John's Altar, the Grave of the Seven and my personal Main Attraction Donegal's sole remaining Round Tower (or, at least, what remains of it)! It stand 13 meters (just under 43 feet) tall, but it's difficult to discern what its true height was originally. By comparison, the intact Round Tower at Kilmacduagh (Ireland's tallest) stands 34 meters nearly 112 feet tall.

Having scratched MY itch, we walked a ways West (toward the lighthouse) in hopes of spotting puffins, but gave up and turned back a short distance beyond the village. We continued East, stopping for a very decent, light lunch in the very busy and rather crowded, Tory Island Hotel.

Tau Cross, Tory Island, Donegal, Ireland | Visions Of The Past (visionsofthepastblog.com)

An Cloigtheach (The Bell Tower) is all that remains of the impressive 6th century monastery which dominated the island (inishview.com)

History of Tory - Tory Island Hotel (hoteltory.com)

After our meal, we wandered further Eastward in the direction of Balor's Fort, but the walk, the ever more threatening cast of the sky and time relative to our scheduled departure caused us to turn back toward the harbor. There was also a rather surprising amount of vehicular traffic as there had been a burial / memorial service in the graveyard attached to the church near the hotel that had been heavily attended.

We did a small bit of shopping after learning that our ferry was running behind schedule and then sat near the Tau Cross to rest and people watch. Once the ferry docked, we watch as a fork lift transported pallets of goods into town and then made our way down the pier, to make sure to secure seats within. The boat didn't seem quite as crowded on the return trip, but the seas grew progressively rougher the further we traveled. We were VERY happy to dock!

As we walked along the pier, we passed a large number of crates full of live crabs being offloaded from a few large fishing boats. It was fascinating to watch the crews hand sorting through the crates and casually tossing any undersized crabs off the edge of the pier, returning them to the sea. When asked, one of the men said that although some of the catch would be sold locally, the bulk would be exported primarily to either France, or Japan!

It started to rain, just as we reached the Tucson. Very fortuitous! By the time we made it back to Dunfanaghy the rain had stopped, so I detoured for a dive out to Horn Head (or, at least, to Lookout Point), where I parked. We went for a short walk toward the Napoleonic Tower, but turned back as the path was a bit much for my companions. I avoided the steeper route past the Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point and The Ross opting for the slightly less treacherous, more inland route in both directions.

Back in Dunfanaghy, my wife and I opted to unwind (and do another small load of was), while the SILs headed across the street to share an adult beverage, or two and order pizza to bring back, for our evening meal. After that, we relaxed, unwound and called it an early night.

More to Come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Day 11: 25 July

Route for the day: https://maps.app.goo.gl/K89A9KJRnWiKeA4p9

We began the day moderately early (for us) and I drove to the Glenveagh National Park car park. From there, we walked to the Visitor's Center and purchased tickets and boarded the shuttle bus that brought us to the Castle. Following an interesting self-guided tour, we wandered through the various gardens, until rain bursts drove us back to the Castle courtyard and a delightful (if slightly expensive) visit in the small, indoor shop. After the rain passed, we wandered down to the nearby dock along the incredibly scenic, Lough Beagh sited within the surrounding Derryveagh Mountains. The misty overcast lent a moody ambiance that made everything stirringly impressive. The bus returned us to the Tucson and I partially retraced our route, heading toward Downings and Sheephaven Bay.

Glenveagh - National Parks of Ireland

The weather was less than ideal overcast and occasionally interrupted by brief periods of soft rain. After a drive through town, I turned back and parked in the customer parking space for the Beach Hotel, in front of the short section of half wall. As we were exiting the Tucson, we spotted a cat and a few kittens that apparently live within that wall. The SILs (both cat lovers) were delighted and opined that meant we were likely to enjoy a fine meal! After our subsequent lunch, there were no complaints.

Downings Donegal, directions and where to stay in Downings

Bar & Restaurant at The Beach Hotel Downings - Downings Bar - Restaurant Downings - Beach Hotel Downings

The weather took a turn for the better during or lunch stop actually drying out and showing scattered patches of blue sky! Whilst the views of Sheephaven Bay and lush, rugged landscape had been impressive on the outward journey, they were exceptionally so, on our return after the brightening of the day.

I had wanted to visit Doe Castle but thought that the ladies might be less interested but they disabused me of that notion after glimpsing the view from across the bay. They did, however, exhibit a certain amount of skepticism, when I detoured off the R245 on to the rather narrow L5222. That only increased when I turned down the single lane track leading to the rather impressive car park adjacent to the castle! Thankfully, the signage confirmed that we really weren't lost.

A family exited shortly after we entered and another arrived just as we were departing. Other than that, we pretty much had the place to ourselves the entire time we were there. It was truly mesmerizing the ruins, the views and the sense of history touched all of us. It is SO worth a visit!

Doe Castle | Heritage Ireland

We returned to Dunfanaghy where we made a meal from our supplies, finished up our laundry, pre-packed for an early departure and called it an early night. We missed a lot of sites of interest during our Donegal time but I think we paced ourselves well. I suppose that just means that we'll have to return.

More to Come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Day12: 26 July Another day-long 'Grand Tour' driving day!

After an early morning rise, I performed my newly acquired packing magic and we set out on our journey to our ultimate destination of Ballycastle, County Antrim, in Northern Ireland.

Route for the day: https://maps.app.goo.gl/6nUvEqf4Mh7pat3B7

Our first stop was with a slight detour to Grianan of Aileach. My wife and I made a hurried visit back in 2007, in a heavy, driving rain. We were delighted to have such a fine morning for our return although I was a bit dismayed by how crowded it was, this time. We dawdled for over an hour, climbing the internal ramparts, wandering about the spacious interior and ogling the incredible, 360 degree vistas.

Grianán of Aileach | Places to See | Things to Do | Go Visit Donegal

Our next stop was fairly brief, into the nearly vacant grounds of Lumen Christi College, in Derry. I had been concerned that access might be problematic, as the rediscovered Round Tower remains are located in the middle of the school grounds but, it being July, with school not in session, my concerns proved to be unnecessary. Although there were a few cars in some of the designated parking areas, during our roughly twenty minute exploration nary a single person appeared. For those keeping score this was number 3 of my 4 remaining Towers!

Hiding in plain sight: a lost medieval tower in Derry? - Current Archaeology

My interest sated, we made our short move onward, to the Car park attached to the Foyleside Shopping Center. This destination was chosen for it easy access to parking, entry to the Derry Walls and the Derry Girls' Mural. After numerous photos of the Mural, we quickly exited the Walls in search of a very specific requested gift for our daughter a Derry Girls tee shirt. After a brief stop into the Starbucks on Ferryquay Street for the ladies whilst I quickly nabbed some Sterling from the Nationwide ATM Cash Point opposite, Then, we followed on to a tiny, Hole In The Wall gift shop that a clerk in the mall had directed us to where we happily secured the requisite shirt.

After making our way back to Foyleside, we grabbed an unremarkable, but adequate lunch from the food Court. We then retrieved the Tucson and resumed our travels. My 3 GBP receipt from the Car Park shows that we entered around 11 AM and departed a little after 12:30! I guess we really aren't 'City Folk'!

Visit Derry | Welcome to the Walled City

Our route from Derry followed the coast as much as possible affording views of the Peace Bridge from both sides. In particular, the drive along the Seacoast Road past Downhill was especially scenic. By mutual consensuses, we bypassed the turn off to Mussenden Temple given the lateness of the day and continued onward. It was good that we did, as the traffic through Coleraine was from out of a nightmare. It probably took us more than 30 minutes just to cross the river, in order to BYPASS the town center! Consequently, rather than following my planned route via Portstewart and Portrush, I opted to take the more direct B17 into Bushmills and onward, to Ballycastle which was also incredibly congested and crowded!

This proved to be a consequence of the two day, Armoy Road Races' Race OF Legends a motorcycle road race which resulted in the closing of several roads in the area for the 'circuit' and the hundreds of participants (and thousands of spectators). Needless to say, there were motorcyclists and motorcycles EVERYWHERE we went over the following weekend. Now, I own a classic 1967 BSA (although I'm a bit too 'fragile' to still ride) but the added congestion and closed roads (as well as other considerations) required some significant alteration to my original agenda.

Race Week Schedule of Events 2024 | Armoy Road Races

When we first arrived at our lodgings in Ballycastle, parking was non-existent and the town was jam-packed with people. It must have been unique o the day, however, because even though the town remained very crowded throughout our stay, it was the only time that parking was an issue. Our two bed, two bath apartment overlooked the street and the seaside park, opposite from us. It was very clean, comfortable and quiet. We all agreed that it was ideal.

The Lir Loft: Superb Seaview Penthouse Apartment - Apartments for Rent in Moyle, Northern Ireland, United Kingdom - Airbnb

Price paid was 542 GBP ($703.96 / 651.65 Euro)

After unpacking and settling in, we strolled around the park and along the street, before taking dinner at the nearby, Marine Hotel. My wife enjoyed a 'Chicken Supreme', whilst I partook of a die coke and their 'Classic Burger', at a total cost of 39.9 GBP. We were both quite well pleased.

During our meal, we spoke with a young couple seated at the next table after noticing that their young son was entranced by a plush, life-sized stuffed puffin. When asked, they mentioned having purchased it from the nearby Tourist Office. Since our youngest granddaughter loves stuffed animals (and was enchanted by photos of puffins that we showed her, prior to our trip) I was determined to secure one, as soon as they reopened.

After our meal, we made our way to the Spar, where we purchased essentials to cover our stay and returned to our apartment to unwind.

More to Come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Saturday: Day13 27 July

The Tourist Office opened at 9 AM and I walked through the door at 9:01 and purchased the LAST stuffed puffin that they had. I believe it cost 16 GBP, which I though was rather reasonable, as it's been my experience that Tourist Offices don't always have the best / lowest prices for souvenirs. After returning to the apartment, I advised my fellow travelers that I had decided to forego my plans to visit the Round Tower on Ram's Island. I explained that the drive there was 52 miles each way and that even though Google Maps claims a 'Drive Time' of only 1 hour and 9 minutes given the Road Race (plus the heavy traffic, in general) I couldn't justify spending the entire day just to visit the Round Tower. I also mentioned that the actual time spent ON Ram's Island (counting the boat ride to and fro) would require FIVE hours, due to the limited sailings.

I know giving up on the very last Round Tower seems counter-productive, (given the 'Bucket List' nature of my obsession but with SO much to see in the area and so little time, I really couldn't justify 'eating up' 8 hours or more of the ladies' time.

Besides It gives me yet one more reason to return! So, instead, of following the original plan, this became our route:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/872kwK5bWtpNHuVi7

I followed the coast to our first stop at the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. Other than the massive crowds (and a slightly larger Visitor's Center and car park) it was much as I remembered from when my wife and I last visited, in 2007 although the really LONG walk to get TO the bridge certainly SEEMED to take longer! At least they seem to have added a number of benches along the path, to stop for a rest. Also, in 2007, we shared the bridge and island with perhaps a dozen people whereas today, they numbered in the hundreds. An employee was stationed at either end of the bridge, just to direct and regulate the flow of people! When we headed back to the car, we must have passed hundreds more that were making their way toward the bridge.

Carrick-a-Rede Northern Ireland | National Trust

If anything, the congestion only got worse at the Giant's Causeway and we were shocked by how much everything had changed. Tickets cost 16.5 GBP per person and included parking, entry into the MASSIVE Visitor's Center and transport via the large, regularly scheduled shuttle buses. Every one I saw (in both directions) was filled to capacity.

Of course, you don't have to pay to enter the Visitor's Center, or to ride the shuttle bus. There is a free pedestrian entrance, and we passed hundreds or hikers streaming down the steep, 1.2-kilometer roadway, as we rode along on the electric bus. There were so many people 'billygoating' over the basalt columns that taking pictures that didn't include numerous strangers in the background was extremely problematic. Still, it's a fascinating site. Given the workout the hike out and back at the rope bridge, the 16.5 GBP felt like a real bargain!

Giant's Causeway | Northern Ireland | National Trust

After the bus returned us to the Visitor's Center, we walked next door, to the Causeway Hotel, for lunch. Here, 2 burgers, a water and a Diet Coke cost 44.94 GBP (although, that included a 4.09GBP Service Charge) that we found satisfying. After eating, we returned to the Visitor's Center, did a bit of shopping and took advantage of the facilities, before returning to the Tucson and continuing onward to a designated parking lot (5 GBP) for access to the Northern approach to the Dark Hedges.

If you were willing to walk along the narrow, and moderately busy B147 roadway, the car park was only about 680 feet from the Dark Hedges, but for the more cautious, the signposted path covers about 1300 feet as it passes past the Hedges Hotel and partially through the grounds of the Gracehill Golf Course and the building that was the previous Estate home for which the tree-lined lane served as entry.

And, once again SO many people!

The Dark Hedges - Stranocum - Discover Northern Ireland

After a full day of decent weather, it was time for the inevitable brief rain shower but that mostly finished by the time we made it back to Ballycastle. We prepared a pasta dinner from groceries purchased from the Spar and unwound resting our weary legs and feet. I assured the ladies that the day marked paid to strenuous walking and the morrow would be much more sedentary!

More to Come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Sunday: Day14: 28 July

During our leisurely breakfast, our view over the park showed a massive influx of traffic. We watched as merchants set up multiple rows of tented stalls which we found on investigation to be for a scheduled Craft Fair and Artisan Market. Naturally, we HAD to rush over just as they opened. We found a number of items that caught our fancy and a few Pounds were happily spent!

Naturally North Coast & Glens Artisan Market at Ballycastle Sea Front - Markets / Fairs in Ballycastle, Ballycastle - Causeway Coast & Glens

After returning our 'booty' to the apartment, we loaded into the Tucson and set out for a freshly designed, long scenic drive promising as little walking as possible!

Our route: https://maps.app.goo.gl/9vFHKWgLftSf1RwDA

I followed the coast as much as possible, traveling along at a leisurely pace along the Torr Road without stopping until reaching Cushendun. We stopped here for a latish lunch at the Village Tea Rooms. Parking there is along a side road, right along the shore of Glendun River, only 100 feet or so before it enters the bay at Cushendun Harbor. After driving down to the seaside car park, in order to turn around, the ladies insisted that I park so they could take a walk on the exceedingly photogenic beach --despite all intentions to the contrary, of avoiding any walking!

Once they had their fill of fresh air, blue (ish) sky and the sound of relaxing waves lapping on the sandy shore, we loaded back up and continued our drive along the A2, Coast Road, through Cushendall and into Larne. From there, I followed the A36 to the M2 around Ballymena where it drops onto the A26. From there, a right turn onto the A44, past Limepark (someplace I still want to stay!), around Armoy (past a previously visited Round Tower) and back into Ballycastle.

We dined on sandwiches and leftovers. Although the Market had long ended, we opened the window to enjoy the sights and sounds of two young girls busking at the edge of the park just opposite from us. After they packed up to leave, we began to do the same, in preparation for our scheduled departure in the morning.

More to Come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Monday Day 15: 29 July

In the morning, my wife received texts from the Birthday Girl who's party we attended Remember her, from the first posts of this report, after what seems like MONTHS???

She wanted to know when we would be at the hotel in Dublin, as she felt as if she hadn't spent sufficient time with us what with her hosting duties and planned to meet us there, to rectify the situation.

Now, my revised plan for the day included spending the bulk of the day exploring Belfast, before making an early evening arrival at the hotel. Between the Cousin's request and the fact that all of us were feeling a bit 'touristed out', we came up with a NEW, new plan.

Our route: https://maps.app.goo.gl/fo5dwfpYBLPRNhUB6

Essentially, we decided to make a 'bee-line' to the hotel! That said, we didn't manage to depart Ballycastle until 11:00 AM. Traffic was heavy particularly through the M2 bypass around Ballymena, which was/is undergoing repair works. We made no stops until reaching the very busy, Applegreen Dromiskin Service Plaza, just below Louth. There, I refilled the Tucson with Diesel, everyone visited the facilities and we purchased a few light snacks. Overall, we probable spent a little over a half an hour there.

We arrived at the Clayton Dublin Airport Hotel around 4 PM, so the total time spent covering roughly 155 miles was about 5 hours, including the stop. By comparison, Google Maps suggests that the trip CAN be done in 3 hours WITHOUT stops. Even after all these years (and visits), it seems that I still can't match an experienced, Local driver!

After a quick check in and trollying the luggage up to our rooms, one of the SILs rode along with me as I returned the car to Europcar's Off-Airport Depot. Surprisingly, the fuel gauge still registered Full even though I had driven nearly 45 miles since 'Topping Up'!

Drop Off went off without a hitch and we were shuttled to the airport. From there, Clayton's Shuttle Bus only required a wait of about 5 minutes before we were on our way back to the hotel.

The Birthday Girl had arrived whilst the two of us were gone and we found our newly-increased party comfortably ensconced within a large, comfortable seating area just off the lobby. After an hour or so of spirited camaraderie, we retired to the restaurant for dinner. Around 8 PM, we were politely encouraged to relocate back to the seating area to free up the dining table for other guests. Did I mention that the hotel was every bit as busy as it had been on our earlier stay?

About an hour or so later, the Birthday Girl departed. Fortunately, she didn't need to drive back to Cork, though, as she planned to spend the night at her son's house, in Dublin. We intrepid four made our way to our rooms, to repack for our trip home, on the morrow. Despite skipping our planned visit to Belfast, it had been a VERY good day! Birthday Girl is a cherished relative. She is owner of an East Cork kitchen table that has been the site of MANY 'Cherished Memories'.

More to Come . . .

Itallian Chauffeur · Moderator

Tuesday Day 16: 30 July

Although all four of us live in Florida, we are domiciled a state apart, or 541 miles, via highway. SILs reside in the Panhandle (AKA Lower Alabama), whilst my wife and I live in SW Florida (God's Waiting Room). Consequently, we opted for flights on American Airlines, while SILs chose to travel with Delta.

We booked the airport shuttle for 7:30 AM and arranged to meet downstairs, around 7. My wife and I had an 11:45 AM departure, whilst the SILs we scheduled for 11. Since we all had access to the 51st and Green Lounge in terminal 2, we would be able to grab a meal and chill. At least, that WAS the plan . . .

Just before the shuttle arrived, SILs received a text advising that their flight would be delayed until 1:35 PM! Since our flight wasn't delayed, we said hasty 'Goodbyes' and boarded the shuttle. Airport check in, Security and Customs & Immigration PreClearance went smoothly and we were nestled in the Lounge with about 2+ hours to kill.

The lounge in Terminal 2 is MUCH better than the AA lounge we visited in PHL, but it's not the nicest that we've been in. We didn't have sufficient time to check out the appropriate lounges in either LHR, nor in our interim stop, in CLT it was a welcome respite from the regular crowds in the terminal.

Our flight was on time and the travel without any drama. The 777-200 was comfortable, the staff friendly and attentive and the food was even palatable. After a short, 2 hour layover in CLT, the same might not be said for the thankfully short, 1 hour and 50 minute flight on the A320. I'm seriously questioning the 'Value For Money' considering that I had opted to splurge (at $189.60 each!) for the upgrade to First Class. Still, given the length of the day's travel, not having a New Best Friend sharing the aisle for 2 hours was pleasing!

Our Granddaughter collected us at the airport around 7:20 PM (About 1 AM, Irish Time) and we were home and in bed about 2 hours later.

Some Additional Commentary

FYI SILs made it home fine, although later than originally scheduled.

Since my rather circuitous route involved a family gathering in Cork, I'm not sure how useful my observations may be for the average tourist, but here goes:

In an ideal world, I would have scheduled an extra week for this trip, but the SILs (despite being wonderful traveling companions) are very resistant to being away from home for that long. In fact, it was difficult to convince them to the amount of time this plan involved. I wish that we could have added 1-2 more days in Cork, to actually VISIT with the family; taken 1 extra day twixt Cork and Sligo (For Portumna and Clonmacnoise); an extra day twixt Sligo and Dunfanghy (around Ardara to free up time for Sliahb Laigh and Glencolumbkille); 1 night between Derry and Ballycastle (to give Derry a bit longer visit as well as justifying the time required to actually visit Ram's Island!) and 1or 2 nights, in or around Belfast (freeing up time to see the city and possibly, Carlingford). I had also planned to bring the ladies to Monasterboice for the Round Tower and the remarkable High Crosses, as the site is along the way to Dublin but, pressed for time, it had to be skipped.

This was our third visit in July and we found it incredibly crowded this year. Particularly in Northern Ireland, the congestion was MANY multiples of what we had ever previously experienced. It wouldn't do to complain, seeing as I bear SOME small portion of responsibility having spent the past 25 years extolling the virtues of visiting Ireland on multiple web forums!

Beyond that, there were a couple of other, specific disappointments:

Not seeing any live puffins.

Not visiting the Ram's Island Round Tower.

Not meeting up with friends in Kildare and Kerry

Forgetting to pay the M50 Tolls An unforgivable for ME Rookie mistake!!

Although when I confessed that to the Europcar attendant, he said that was expected and the company was covering them (?)? This was news, to me.

In fact, I was charged 563.01 Euro ($615.03) when I picked up the car (Which included a one way fee of 68.10 Euro, a cross border fee of 30 Euro, 3 Euro Carbon Offset Fee and the Airport Surcharge Fee of 25 Euro.

That was for a rental of 14 days, for a Mid-Sized, Diesel, manual shift SUV, with the insurance waived utilizing my Credit Card's coverage. I expected a fee for doing that (typically, 30 35 Euro), but it doesn't show on the rental contract. In fact, after my return, I was Refunded 1.34 Euro ($1.45) with no explanation???

Mind you I'm NOT complaining. I was fully prepared to see a CHARGE of 20 30 Euro show up for the two missed tolls plus Penalty charges and late fees!

About those extra nights Between Cork and Sligo, I think the logical choice would have been in either Mountshannon, or Portumna, to allow time to tour the VERY impressive Workhouse. Then, there would also be time for Clonmacnoise before arriving into Sligo.

Between Dunfanaghy and Ballycastle, Limvady or Portstewart seem like logical choices. That way, there would have been time to complete the Causeway Coast tour enroute to Ballycastle, rather than making a day of it, later in the trip, as we did. Perhaps, then, I could have visited Ram's Island on the 'freed up' day.

Since the ferry to Ram's only operates on Saturdays and Sundays (and the Party was scheduled for a Saturday), that visit would have STILL been problematical. Still, that day still might have had value as a chance to visit Rathlin and actually SEE those darn Puffins, after all!

Still overall, this trip was mostly a success and it's never a good idea to completely clear your Bucket List. Life would be awfully boring without any goals!