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Post Info TOPIC: Killarney in June


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Killarney in June


Greetings folks! We’re back from the Emerald Isle and I thought I’d post some info that may be of some help to you all. Keep in mind this was our first trip to another country let alone Ireland, so we were true novices. First and foremost I need to thank Michele and all of the others who offered great tips that were extremely useful. This website is a blessing for first-timers! So below are some of our experiences.

Memorable Experiences:
• World Bodhran Championship Festival – My husband, Shane, is a bodhran player and even teaches a class at our local university so we were thrilled to learn that the World Bodhran Championships were going on in Milltown, just about 10-15km from Killarney. We learned about it a little late and so only attended on the last two days of the four day festival. While we didn’t hear all of the competitors we were there for the six finalists’ performances. Each of them were top notch and we were excited that our personal pick for number one, did, indeed take the championship. Visit www.worldbodhranchampionships.com for more info. In addition to the fine bodhran playing, we enjoyed a huge Ceili (set dancing extravaganza as they called it), the best and most authentic session that we sat in on for our whole stay at the Plough Pub (with fiddler, uillean pipe player, flute, button accordion, and two of the finalists in the bodhran contest). We met a fellow American, Eva M., there and had a delightful time together. This event was probably the highlight of the whole trip for us!
• Muckross Gardens – While we enjoyed the tour of Muckross House and the Traditional Farms, the gardens truly won us over. With Rhododendron bushes larger than our house—and in full bloom—we were in heaven. Since we stayed close by, we spent several mornings walking the gardens, hiking up to Torc waterfall, strolling by the lake, etc.
• Dingle Peninsula – We started off our tour of the peninsula by pulling in to the Celtic and Prehistoric Museum…which held a special surprise for us. The museum is run by an American professional hammered dulcimer player (the instrument that I play) and we used to carry his recordings in the store we previously owned back home so we were very familiar with his music. We had an enjoyable chat with him, he played a few tunes for us (“chunes” as they are called in Ireland) and then gave us some good tips for exploring the peninsula. I do agree with several folks who told us that the Dingle Peninsula has some of the most breathtaking scenery on the whole Island. The first fort (I can’t recall the name) was my husband’s favorite stop and I was particularly moved by the story told at the Blasket Island Center. I wondered if the movie, “The Secret of Roan Inish” was loosely based on the Blasket Islands. At any rate I thought the movie that they showed at the center was very poignant. We were the only one’s at Gallarus Oratory and we took a moment to sing a hymn there—providing a unique spiritual moment for us.
• The Gap of Dunloe – truly awesome scenery. A word of warning, though. We bought the tour and took the bus out to Kate Kearney’s cottage. We took a quick stop in the bathrooms and when we returned everyone had either begun walking or had arranged for a pony/carriage ride already. We were the last two standing there and had no one to share a ride with so we were told that it was 80 euros for a ride. They said we could wait for more people to show up to share a ride with (but no one else showed up). We sat and waited for a while and finally one driver came up and gave us a ride for 20 euros a piece. If he hadn’t finally given us a deal we could have been stuck paying the 80 euros for the ride. So I guess my advice to folks is be prepared to walk the 7 1/2 miles if there’s no one to share a ride with you and you don’t like the price they’re suggesting.
• Traditional Irish Night in the Corn Barn was fun and entertaining and I’d recommend it. The Bunratty Folk Park was bigger than I thought it would be and we were a bit tired after the walk through it. Wear good walking shoes!
• Watching World Cup Soccer in Irish Pubs. What fun! If Ireland had made it to the World Cup I’m sure it would have been even more exciting. Those folks really love their football! My daughter was wearing her University of New Mexico sweatshirt and a few lads congratulated her that her team had done well that morning. We tried to explain that “New Mexico” is a state in the United States, and that we weren’t from “Mexico,” but I’m not sure they ever really got it.
• Enjoyed the “Molly McGuires” at Danny Mann’s but the sound was cranked up too high for comfort. We had to leave to protect our ears even though we enjoyed the guys—especially their acapella singing.
A few things we really liked:
• The roundabouts! At first we were confused by these intersections but eventually we came to really like them for they kept traffic moving instead of waiting at stoplights.
• Passing rules. Again, at first it was very disconcerting to have cars coming down the middle of the road at you. But since the drivers from both directions were so considerate about moving as far to the left as possible, it ultimately made passing much easier than here in the U.S.
• The music. We enjoyed some excellent sessions and it made my fingers itch to get back and work some of the “chunes” we heard.
• Hot served meals. I kid you not…every meal we ate was served literally steaming and we had to let it cool down before we could touch it. Maybe the electricity difference allows them to cook at higher temps. I don’t know, but we sure noticed it.
• The beautiful sunny weather. Now I know our experience was different from everyone else’s here but we only experienced two short, light rain showers and every other day was clear and sunny. The Irish were all talking about it being a “scorcher” so I’m sure they weren’t used to it, but we found it very comfortable. Short sleeves, no jackets pretty much every day. At the end we were able to enjoy a little bit of the Irish mist (since we come from an area in the desert that has severe drought we were actually looking forward to the Irish rain, but we didn’t complain about the unseasonably beautiful weather).
• Intenet Café’s in abundance—easy and cheap to use. Looked up one afternoon and four computers down from me sat a good friend from home, Neither of us knew the other was in Ireland. What a small world! Since this turned out to be our only avenue of access to anyone we were grateful to have these Cafe's available.
• Irish TV—had the chance to see some shows highlighting their local musicians, De Danaan and Gaelic Folk Singer John Beag. Also a show on Irish Sign Language (I’m a former sign language interpreter so really enjoyed that).
Things that we missed about home:
• Big tall glasses of ice water with meals. Whenever we ordered water we usually got a very small glass of lukewarm tap water and had to keep asking for more. The places that were used to serving Americans gave us a pitcher of ice water. Since it was so warm out we really appreciated it when we got it.
• Darkness. Going to bed with the sun still shining brightly took some getting used to. Daylight until about 11pm while we were there and sunrise by about 5am.
• Easy communication access. I wish now that we had rented a cell phone. We had no phone, no texting, no internet access where we were staying (we rented a 3 bedroom home), so communicating with people at home, with my daughter in Ireland (whom we were trying to arrange a meeting with) and even making local reservations, etc. was difficult.
• Roadside Assistance. Had a flat tire and after a call to Europcar were told to fix it ourselves. We tried, but the car slipped off of the jack twice and we were so frustrated! Three Irish Angels (employees at the Killarney Tourist Office) came out to “relieve our distress.” The Tourist Office had closed and they stayed after hours to help us and changed the tire for us. They couldn’t use the lousy jack that came with the rental either, so used theirs instead. We were so grateful to them! We went to a bakery and bought them a bunch of goodies the next day to say thank you. This incident was only one of several reasons why I would never use Europcar Rentals again.
A few more tips for first-timers:
• The tip that we heard about not driving more than a couple of hours after you arrive was a good one. Our drive to Killarney from Shannon was just about two hours and we were pretty frazzled by the end. Molehills seemed like mountains and everything was so frustrating until we had a shower, a bite to eat and a nap. Then everything seemed manageable again.
• Tell yourself “Look right, stay left” every time you get into the car. It’s a good reminder.
• “Sheehan’s Pub” in the Grand Hotel in Killarney has a great session on Friday and Sunday nights, and Set Dancing on Wednesday nights.
• If you hike up to Torc Waterfall, be prepared to be eaten alive my mosquito-like gnats. All of us had dozens of welts on our arms after our walk up there. Most of the hike was fine. It was only by the waterfall where the bugs were in abundance.
• Be sure and take an adaptor and a converter for electric plugs. I melted my curling iron. My ipod and computer did fine since they have internal converters, but not all of them do. Best to use a converter to be on the safe side and not fry your electronic innards.
• Use the ATM’s! They’re everywhere and quick and easy. My daughter’s friend was relying on making exchanges at banks and found himself cash-less several times when he needed money after bank hours or during the bank holiday.

Well, that’s all I can think of at the moment. Best wishes to all who are still planning your trip. You’re in for a great adventure!


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Jeanne Page


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Jeanne,


Really enjoyed reading about your favorites, etc. Glad you had good weather and a good trip!  Thanks for sharing with us.



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I enjoyed reading about your trip, and had to comment that my husband is VERY excited that we will be in Ireland for the World Cup finals - he is a big soccer (I mean football!) fan and I'm glad to hear that it was fun watching the games there! (Mexico, New Mexico - whatever, right? ) Thanks for sharing your trip notes!!

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Jeanne,


I am delighted to hear that the advice and tips here helped greatly with your trip. Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed report. It seems that you hit the weather just right. Feel free to fill in with lodgings you liked (or didn't like!) or restaurants. Just a note about the water -- I always ask for a jug of water with ice. They are a bit stingy with ice in Europe but you can always ask for more. That way you can refill your glass as you please.


Michele


 


 



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"Ireland Expert"  Michele Erdvig

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Jeanne, thanks for your report! I'm more excited than ever to visit the Dingle Peninsula. We leave in July. I didn't know there was a Celtic and Prehistoric Museum in Dingle...is it in town or on the peninsula? We are planning to visit the Blasket Island Center and now after your description I'm eager to visit. (I should mention we have 3 budding writers in the family.)

I am just on my way out the door so only skimmed your report and stopped at the Dingle section. Looking forward to really savoring it later. Thanks.

We have 3 nights in Dingle, and 15 total nights in Ireland. Welcome back!

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Hi all,
I'm glad my experiences can be of help to some of you. A bit more info on the Dngle--The Celtic and Prehistoric Museum is located on the Peninsula after you pass through Dingle. You can email the director (Harris Moore) at celticmuseum@hotmail.com, or I see listed on the brochure the following website: www.kerryweb.ie . The museum is mostly fossils, flint axes, jewelry, weapons, etc.--not really my cup of tea, but if it is yours, you should enjoy it. We were just pleased to make the musical connection with Harris. The Dunbeg Fort was my husband's favorite spot; Harris told us to go past the first Beehive huts and stop at the second (which he thought were better and fewer people stopped at those). You usually have to pay a few Euros to see each of these as they are on private land, I think I was most intrigued with the Blasket Islands because I had just seen the movie "The Secret of Roan Inish." A friend told me I had to see it before I went to Ireland. The movie was about an island that everyone had moved off of and ended up on the mainland. It includes a unique telling of the 'selkies' (seal-people) legend, but the basic idea of having to move away from a beloved home on the island struck a chord with me when I saw the real-live story of the Blasket Islands. I ended up buying a couple of books there to learn more of the Blasket story. Do watch the short 20 minute film in the museum because it really sets the tone for everything else. Another cool little place in the museum is in the 'sound' room. For those of you who have visited the Country Hall of Fame in Nashville, if you stand in the little circle painted on the floor in the center of the room you can speak with a normal voice and it sounds to you like you are broadcasting loudly through a microphone (just to yourself), yet people standing a few feet away hear you normally. It's a unique acousic property of the round room. The sound room at the Blasket Island Center is the same though the change in sound is not as dramatic as it is in Nashville (because of the difference in room size). Anyway, it's just a fun little trick that we discovered and no one in the immediate vicinity seemed to know anything about this special effect in the room. We had fun showing a few others there how it works. :) The other stop that was especially meaningful was the Gallus Oratory. I have to tell you that we avoided Connors Pass which is supposed to be spectacular scenery but a "white knucker" as far as driving conditions. We weren't confident enough in our driving skills to tackle it so we went the southern route through Inch, etc. instead of coming down through Tralee.

Michele, we stayed in only one place, "The Muckross Homes" which is associated with "Killarney Oaks Inn" a mile or so away from Muckross House on Muckross road. It was a beautiful three bedroom condo with a backyard courtyard that you share with four or five other condos. They are fairly new and so clean and modern. We had three bedrooms, three bathrooms, living room and kitchen/dining room area. We like having our own place so we can come back from a day of sight-seeing and take our shoes off, relax and feel at home. Also, we don't have to be up and ready early in order to take advantage of breakfast. We buy groceries for light breakfasts at home (just mile and cereal and juice) and then we can take our time in getting started in the morning. As I said, the homes were beautiful, new, clean, and modern. On the negative side:
* They were expensive. I think you can go to a "DreamIreland" site and see how the prices vary according to time of year. This was our designated "splurge" for the trip, but I think for most folks it's way out of the average budget. When we arrived we learned that we had to pay for electricity, too. We tried to really watch our usage and ended up only paying an extra 25 euros for our two week stay, but I hear that it can be way more if you go in the winter and use the heaters/fireplace. We were told that we had a washer/dryer (another reason for having our own place) but it was one machine that did both washing and drying. It was small and so a load of about 4-5 towels could take 3 or more hours to go through all the cycles and get completely dry. We had to stay on top of laundry to keep fresh towels available and get our own clothes through the cycles too. They didn't provide any housecleaning or supply extra TP or cleaning supplies (like dishwashing liquid) so we had to get those at the grocery. There was no phone in the home. For the high price we paid, we sort of expected some of these small additions. Also, one day we arrived home to find that some workmen had been changing the locks in the house and left our front door wide open with the key still dangling in the lock. We have no idea how long it was left alone and unattended but fortunately nothiing was taken. When we voiced our displeasure about it to management they weren't very helpful. So bottom line is that the facility was beautiful but the price was high and service was not even average in my opinion. I'd not go back or recommend it to someone without warning them about the above.
Jeanne

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Jeanne Page


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Jeanne, thanks for the additional info on Dingle. I am already wishing we had 4 nights in Dingle instead of 3.

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