After nearly six months, I thought I'd better at least make a start on this so here goes!

Our itinerary was well planned as we wanted to make the most of our time there, but allowing for surprise finds along the way, and our accommodation all booked in advance-a mix of mostly b and b's, a castle and a hotel. Accommodation was based mainly on Michele's and others' recommendations, cost and generally they needed to be walking distance into town. My husband tried lots of pubs and rated most of them out of 5* for ambience,company,service and beer!

After a hectic (but enjoyable) week in London, my husband Steve and I were more than ready for the relative peace and quiet of Ireland. On Monday,we made a painless transition from Gatwick to Dublin, and had no problems picking up our rental car-a manual 4 door diesel Hyundai i30. Because we drive the same way in Australia as in Ireland, that was obviously one less thing to worry about - which side of the road to drive on! The car turned out to be a fantastic little vehicle, small enough for the Irish roads, but big enough to cart two adults and all our luggage and bits and pieces around for a month. Very frugal to run too, being diesel.

Anyway, we had no trouble getting out of Dublin airport (just lucky?) and on our way to Trim in Co Meath. We stayed at Highfield House for 2 nights. It was only a short walk into town, where we had a late lunch at a cafe near Trim Castle, before touring the castle. We walked through the grounds for a while then joined a guided tour inside the keep. Stairs and walkways within meant we were able to reach the upper levels-the guide was very interesting. The tour, which was the only way of seeing inside the keep, was certainly worth taking. Afterwards we found St John's Priory by accident (wasn't on our list of to do places, but that happens a lot in Ireland as many of you well know!!) We were amazed that we could just walk through the ruins of this hospital established in the early 13th century. Only our first day in Ireland and we were just starting to get an idea of the awe inspiring experience that was ahead of us. 


Our room at Highfield House was large and quite comfortable, although the bed was a bit hard, and there were not enough pillows. Good shower and hairdryer (my hair turns to frizz at the slightest sign of moisture so a good hairdryer always wins points from me!), a bit of traffic noise, but we were so tired it didn't really bother us. Our room was at the end of a passage so we had no passing foot traffic, very quiet. We were surprised the next morning to actually discover we weren't the only guests. We were invited to join 2 other couples (American and Canadian) for breakfast, which was a wonderful way to start the day. Breakfast was lovely, plenty to eat and a variety of dishes to choose from. Free internet access for guests was very welcome.

Second day in Trim, we headed for Newgrange, getting there early as suggested to avoid the crowds. Looked over the displays in the visitors centre until our bus left for Newgrange. We took the 30 minute tour, spending 15 minutes inside the central chamber. I expected it to smell dank and damp, but the tomb is so well constructed and sealed, no moisture has seeped in over thousands of years. A bit claustrophobic though. We caught the bus back to the visitors' centre and had a coffee and tea in the cafe.
From Newgrange I wanted to see Monasterboice High Cross and Mellifont Abbey, but we got lost (took us less than 24 hours to accomplish that!) and ended up in Drogheda. The traffic was horrendous, so we headed back to Trim. I had given up trying to follow our map and the local signposts already at this stage, so we decided that we would just experience things as they appeared. Faerie-led, best way to travel!!

A sign appeared for Tara so we turned off to there. We had lunch at the tearooms there, yummy soup and brown bread, and we shared a pot of tea. We walked over the green slopes of the Hill of Tara for a couple of hours, don't know why, but we didn't go into the visitor centre there, so we were ambling around without any real idea of what we were actually seeing, which was a shame. The site has a real atmosphere, quite spiritual. As the afternoon wore on, the weather closed in and by the time we were on the road again it was pouring with rain. We got lost again, but with the help of a lovely Irish lady who directed us to follow her, were on our way towards Trim.
Even on the narrow back roads which we expected to be quieter, we still encountered big trucks. Quite intimidating when one is in a little car on a narrow road. One truck was trying to navigate a single lane bridge by zig-zagging his way over it. We couldn't believe that the driver would even attempt it, but he made it after about 10 minutes of to-ing and fro-ing, with the traffic building up either side of the bridge.
That night we had a nice meal at Franzini O'Brien's.  The two pubs Steve tried out were Mackormacks (4*) and James Griffin (2*) I don't drink, so I let him head off on his own!

Wednesday we said goodbye to the lovely people we had joined for breakfast both mornings and headed out of Trim just after 9am in pouring rain. The weather improved as we headed north west towards Co Cavan, once again signage confusing, even non-existent, and we headed off in the wrong direction a couple of times.
Finally reached Cavan town late morning-very impressive town, with some beautiful old buildings, but also new estates full of similar 2 storey/dormer windowed houses.
We found the Heritage Centre/tourist information building. I wanted to see if I could find any further information about my family history. I spent some time with the reseacher while Steve went off for a walk. I gained a little more info, but with Irish records the way they are, I wasn't optimistic. We went off for a cuppa and a bite to eat at a coffee shop, then headed back to the Heritage centre. We walked past the school site in Farnham St. where my great-grandmother's parents were teachers in the 1840's. I was so thrilled to actually walk in the footsteps of my ancestors. I think that was when I felt the connection I have always had for Ireland really deepen into something quite emotional.
It continued to do so as we left Co Cavan and went onto Ballinamore in Co Lietrim, where my other Irish roots are. Along the way, the scenery changed, from gentle rolling green hills and fields, to one of many lakes and small bare mountains. The only reason we came through Counties Cavan and Lietrim was because of my family ties, but I'm so glad we experienced them, they may not have the touristy sites and historical ruins of other counties, but their beautiful scenery and lovely little towns have their own charm.

We checked into Hamill's b and b back in off the main street of Ballinamore. Room on the first floor, comfortable, tiny ensuite, but everything provided. Damien was a friendly, obliging host.
Steve was coming down with a cold so we decided to eat in that night-cup of soup, crusty rolls and fruit from the local supermarket.
By Thursday we both had colds, so feeling a bit average. Breakfast was good, I had yummy porridge, Steve was right into the cooked breakfasts, complete with black pudding.
We headed off to Drumshanbo, a little town about 15 minutes away, where I have family roots. Looked over the cemetery at the Church of Ireland, but found nothing, and walked around. Typical quaint little Irish town-narrow winding streets lined with two storey terraces.
Back to Ballinamore where I waited in the genealogy centre for nearly an hour, all for nought. No more information. Had lunch at the Moo wine bar, then went for a walk along the canal that runs through town. Drove to Fenagh where there was the ruin of a 7th century abbey.
Pub meal that night, but can't remember where. Steve's pub ratings were for Laurence's  (2*) Pat Joe's (2 1/2*) and The Poor Scholar (4*) I don't think anyone achieved a 5* rating, he's tough to please! He loved the Poor Scholar. I think he rated it the best in Ireland by the time we left.

Friday we headed towards Northern Ireland. Once out of the Republic we found the roads and signage much improved. We visited the Ulster American Folk Park just out of Enniskillen. Very interesting, spent a couple of hours there. Onto Strabane, to find an ATM and have some lunch. We weren't inclined to stop very long, not impressed at all.
We continued on to Derry and found our b and b Abbey west of the wall in the Bogside.
Went for a walk into the city, but it was raining quite heavily so we didn't last long, back to the b and b where we had a long chat with Seamus our host, who was very helpful and friendly. Sent off some emails to home, free internet access again which was great. We had dinner at Flaming Jack's, which was a good meal and not too pricey. Getting there and back in the wind and pouring rain wasn't much fun so we called it a night fairly early. Interrupted night's sleep because of loud, inconsiderate guests on the floor above us.

Saturday the weather was improving so we decided  to head for the Causeway Coast.
It was easy enough to get out of Derry, as the roads were well marked. We looked over  Downhill and Bishops Gate, good chance to get out of the car and stretch our legs. Had a good walk through the gardens and saw the monument but didn't get to the ruins of the mansion or Mussenden Temple.
The next stop was Dunluce Castle-amazing ruins, but very windy. At least the sun was shining. We spent quite a lot of time there, lots to see and information boards to read.
On the way to the Giant's Causeway, we got caught up in the crowds of what seemed like thousands going through Portrush (or maybe it was Portstewart). Turns out it was a big airshow, so we avoided it on the return trip to Derry.
We had a nice lunch at the Causeway Hotel, then walked to the Causeway itself. A longish walk, but downhill for the best part so quite comfortable. Very interesting, lots and lots of people crawling all over it like ants! I was surprised at how small an area it actually is, in all the photographs I've seen in brochures etc., I always imagined it to be a lot bigger. Even so, it is a fascinating site, and well worth seeing.
We took the bus back up to the top of the hill, as it was a fair climb towards the end.
Steve wanted to look over Bushmills Distillery but part of it wasn't operating because of maintenance, so taking the tour wasn't worth it.
We drove to Ballycastle instead and had a look around, walked on the beach for a little way, before driving back to Derry along the inland route. Don't know how, but missed the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge altogether. Probably too windy to walk across it anyway. I don't think I could've done it in fine calm weather. I'm not good with heights.

We had another interrupted night's sleep because of the drunk noisy guests (female)upstairs. (Our host didn't live on the premises) I ended up knocking on their door and asking them politely to keep the noise down at 2am. They weren't happy with me, if looks could kill I would've been dead at breakfast! It was the only time we had a problem with other guests in a b and b.
Sunday the weather was beautiful, sunny with a light cool breeze. We drove to the Inishowen Peninsula in Donegal, going up the east coast of the peninsula alongside Lough Foyle, right up to Malin Head, the northern most point of Ireland. We got out for a walk and a look around. The dramatic coastline with its magnificent scenery takes your breath away, and the air smells so clean and pure.
We came back down the western side of the peninsula which runs along Lough Swilly. The landscape changed from green patchwork fields to rugged, heather covered hills and moors, There were signs of peat being cut-bags filled with the cut peat stacked up here and there.
The landscape changed again as we headed further south, back to soft green pastures and fields. We bought a sandwich and a drink in Buncrana to have a picnic lunch. Had a look over Inch Island.
Back in Derry we walked into the city and around along the top of the wall. Disappointed by all the litter around, bottles etc after Saturday night. Typical of any large city I guess, no matter where you are. Strolled around the shops and down to the river. We had dinner at Flaming Jacks again-nothing outstanding but good reliable food.
Back at the b and b we sat talking in the lounge with an English couple until late.

That's the first week done. I hope this hasn't been too long and rambling, hard to know just what to put in and what to leave out.  I look forward to any feedback!

Regards
Meredith

-- Edited by meredith on Saturday 14th of March 2009 01:43:57 AM