For this trip, we concentrated on the southeast, flying in and out of Dublin. Brian drives and I navigate. This time, Roger brought along his new GPS toy. It came with maps of Ireland, but would not chart a route for us without some sort of 'license' which he decided we couldn't obtain without buying a phone, so we skipped it. It did, however, tell us where we were, the name of the road we were on, and which direction we were going, which came in handy more than once.

I like to stay at B&Bs, within walking distance of pubs, restaurants, places of interest, etc. (When you are spending 3 weeks with people, it is nice to have the option of going off on your own once in a while!) Clean, comfortable, convenient and economical is what I look for. The crew I travel with doesn't like to have a schedule or much of a plan (we can even change our destination based on the weather), and likes to stay put for 2-3 nights at a time. They are confidant that we can just pull into a B&B wherever we end up. This is mostly true. On the last trip, we stayed at nice B&Bs run by lovely people. However, most were not within walking distance of anything. On this trip I tried to exert a little more influence, but sometimes only had 24 hours notice about where we were heading next. While they were reading books and writing postcards, I was searching for where to stay and what to see. Not relaxing for me, but it all worked out wonderfully, with the help of Michele and her forum, and the fact that we had internet access everywhere - yes, free WiFi at every stop; a definite plus with our new netbook. Oh, and we like Dublin - many people don't, but we do.

Trip Report:

SUNDAY, 10 May 2009 - HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!
It is 9:30 PM and Roger has been harassing me to keep me awake. Had a pleasant flight over on Aer Lingus out of Chicago. The plane was new and not full, but for some reason, I did not sleep well. We landed in Dublin about 7 AM and took a cab to the Handel Hotel where we dropped off our luggage. The girls serving breakfast were kind enough to bring us tea even though we could not check in. Then we did what we could to keep moving and awake all day. I think we all gave up about 4:30 -- we were a danger to ourselves just walking around.

The weather was beautiful, if just a bit cool. (Cool probably helped keep us awake.) We strolled through Temple Bar and went to the Dublin Tourism Centre on Suffolk Street to pick up brochures and buy our Heritage Passes. We are big on history, so I am sure we will get our money's worth. Karen & Brian were happy to find a Starbucks nearby, so we stopped in there and looked over the book that came with the passes. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, Dublin feels like an old friend, and I'm happy to just be there. We headed back and the hotel had our rooms ready, so we moved in. Walked over to Christ Church Cathedral and eventually went in to see the Choral Evensong. It was lovely, but not the right thing for jetlagged retirees - we had to excuse ourselves before it ended. Embarrassing, but it would have been worse if we'd fallen off our chairs. Brian would have landed right on the Strongbow monument! We had a little something to eat and a Guinness at Darkey Kelly's which is right next door to the hotel. The bar in our own hotel is named "Karma Lounge" and is decorated in a sort of Far East or Japanese style. We don't go there!

I've stayed at the Handel twice before. After the first visit, I knew better than to stay there on the weekend - noisy and more expensive on Friday and Saturday nights. My last visit was about 6 years ago, and the furnishings have aged since then. I still like the rate and the location (near Christ Church), but it is time for them to invest in the place. That would probably change the price, though, so I guess you can't have everything!

We are able to pick up a wifi signal in our room, so I am writing email in my pajamas. Now maybe Roger will let me go to sleep. If I am still awake at midnight, I will kill him!

MONDAY, 10 May 2009
Today we shopped (mostly on Nassau St.), walked around Trinity College, and took the bus through its entire route (Dublin Tour Hop On-Hop Off, green bus, 23 stops!). The morning was pleasant enough for us to ride up top. We had lunch at O'Neill's (not as good as remembered), and then took the bus out to the Guinness Storehouse tour. It was more interesting than I expected and it was clear weather - perfect day to enjoy the 360 degree view from the Gravity Bar up on top, which is where the tour ends.

We hopped back on the bus and then hopped off at the "Old Jameson Distillery" stop so we could walk over to Hughes Bar (19 Chancery Street), which was recommended by our neighbors. We only had tea because we filled up on Guinness at lunch and the factory. Now that we know where it is, we are going to try to get back over there for the music. It is not far, but I'm not sure we have the stamina to stay up that late. They say it starts about 9:30, but I'd be surprised if it gets going before 10:30. (I might be wrong about that!)

Our bus ticket will be good until noon tomorrow, so our plan is to take it to Kilmainham Gaol Historical Museum, and then to Parnell Square for the Dublin Writers Museum and the art museum up there. Our evening plan is for the Literary Pub Crawl, which Karen and I enjoyed a few years back. I was thinking that I have never walked across the Ha'penny Bridge, so that's on my list, too. And it will lead me right to a book store! What more incentive could I need?

We slept a solid 8 hours last night which has put us in pretty good shape, although we still found ourselves nodding off on the bus. The trick is to not hold still I guess 

Had fish & chips from Leo Burdocks for dinner. Must be 9 PM now, I hear the Christ Church bells ringing. Uh oh. I also hear Roger snoring.

TUESDAY, 12 May 2009
P.S. We wimped out last night and did not go in search of music. Big surprise.

The Kilmainham Gaol Museum offers an excellent look at history - interesting exhibits and impressive guided tour. Caught the "hop-on" to the Dublin Writers Museum on Parnell Square. Very interesting; nice shop; supposed to be a café, but it was closed. We did not go to the Hugh Lane Gallery (I was voted down), but did stop in the Garden of Remembrance for a while. I love the Children of Lir sculpture there, and it was a peaceful pause on a sunny afternoon. Walked down O'Connell Street (which was not peaceful!) stopping at Dublin Tourism Office there to make reservations for Literary Pub Crawl. Crossed the river and stopped in at Cassidy's for dinner (42 Camden Street Lower). Claims of the best Irish Stew in Dublin are not unfounded. Served with marvelous brown bread. Had a half pint of Guinness (I have to pace myself). All wonderful. Strolled back to our hotel along the river, stopping to walk across the Ha'penny Bridge. It's a beautiful afternoon/evening - the forecast was for rain, so this is most welcome!

Having tea and a rest before walking back to The Duke (Duke Street, just off Grafton) for the pub crawl. Brian stayed down at the O'Connell Street Bridge to do some sketching. I'm recharging my camera battery and have downloaded my (138) photos.

Evening update...
Literary Pub Crawl was a lot of fun. Different from last time, but just as good - and led by the same actor. We won 2nd prize in the quiz - a tiny bottle of Bushmills Irish Whiskey, which he referred to as 'after shave.' Could have won 1st, but it took us a while to start shouting out the answers - we're so shy

The fact that we spent the afternoon at the Writers Museum should have helped - maybe that's why I knew George Bernard Shaw won an Academy Award for Pygmalion.

Finished the evening with a half pint at The Duke (where the pub crawl begins and ends) and then walked home. Stayed out until 11 PM! Amazing

WEDNESDAY, 13 May 2009
Wednesday morning - slept well. It's not raining but it is overcast. Time for breakfast!

Evening report...
Took a tour of Dublin Castle and then walked around the garden behind it. Went into the Chester Beatty Library -- we had tea while Brian looked at manuscripts. Seems to be a popular place for lunch. Then we split up. Roger and I walked to the National Library with genealogy research as our goal. Did some window-shopping on the way. Did not have much luck at the library. Didn't really expect to. It is difficult when you don't know the town or parish and you are looking into names like Brennan, Murphy, and Slattery... but I tried.

Plan was to meet Karen & Brian at The Old Stand (37 Exchequer St.) for dinner at 5 PM. We had an hour to kill and spent it at the National Museum-Archaeology looking at the Viking artifacts they dug up while building new government offices just down the street from our hotel. Fascinating!

Karen & Brian were waiting for us. Karen and I ordered the Irish Stew and it came with delicious brown bread. You might be wondering why we eat the same thing every night. (1) WE LIKE IT (2) based on our experience out west, we might not find it available once we leave Dublin. Roger had the special of the day, which was a cross between a giant meatball and a small meatloaf, with brown gravy and onions and french fries. He enjoyed it, and I tasted it and it was quite good. Brian had chicken kiev.

By the time we finished, a misty rain had started and we had a quick walk home. It is the first rain since our arrival and so far it is not developing into anything heavier. We've been pretty lucky -- lots of sun and blue skies. Tonight's rain is not enough to stop you from doing anything, but... I vote for more sun tomorrow!

I think we are going to try to go back to Hughes Bar for the music tonight. I think everyone is taking a nap. I could not wake up all day, but that gallon of tea I drank might be starting to kick in.

Karen and Brian did not go to the museums today, so they might do that tomorrow. Roger and I will probably make a plan based on the weather. We'll have to be packed on Friday morning, so I might make a start.

I love Dublin but I'm looking forward to getting out into the country. We will be staying at Wicklow Heather B&B in Laragh near Glendalough on Friday and Saturday nights. I really want to walk some trails at Glendalough, so I hope good weather returns.

9 PM, so it might be time to rally the troops.

THURSDAY, 14 May 2009
P.S. We wimped out last night and did not go in search of music -- AGAIN.

Our first rainy day. Roger and I spent the morning taking it easy and getting organized. Good thing we hung around. Some time after the maid came, the manager knocked and asked if we were checking out. No! (Many hours later, I checked the information I had printed out at home. Somewhere along the line, between the time I made the reservation and when we finally started the trip, I came to believe we were checking out on Friday. Actually, we were scheduled to check out on Thursday morning! Luckily, our rooms were available and we were not left sitting on the sidewalk with our luggage. Everyone leaves these things to me. Maybe I was subconsciously trying to get myself fired from that job!)

Karen and Brian went to see The Book of Kells and the National Museum-Archaeology. Roger and I visited Christ Church and St. Patrick's Cathedrals. Met up with Karen & Brian on their way to pick up their laundry. We all meandered down through Temple Bar and decided to have dinner at Oliver St. John Gogartys. I would recommend lunch there, and going for music, but I think dinner is overpriced. Good, but too expensive. When they offered to bring us bread, I had no idea we would be charged 6 euro for it. Maybe I would have asked for it anyway...

Walked around and also had a couple of pints before heading for bed.
Tomorrow we hit the road!