The cab driver was wonderful, as has always been the case. He gave us a running commentary on the area, including singing us a song - something about a triangle and a river that I did not recognize. When he found out we were heading for Glendalough, he gave us advice on our route and told us to honk when we went by his old house - I think it was in Hollywood. He delivered us to Hertz at the airport and we got our car. The guy was putting pressure on Brian to get a bigger car (claimed our luggage wouldn't fit in the one we booked) and then to get an automatic transmission. Even started coming down on the added cost of the upgrades after a while, but we stuck with our original reservation. The car is a Renault Laguna. And our luggage fit just fine.

So, off we went. Managed to escape from Dublin Airport and headed for Blessington. We stopped at Russborough House, but just for tea and to catch our breath - driving on the left is unsettling, especially the first day. At least we are not also fighting jet lag. We followed the cab driver's directions and crossed the Wicklow Mountains at Wicklow Gap, which brought us down past Glendalough to Laragh. Found the Wicklow Heather Restaurant, but not Wicklow Heather B&B. Went back and forth - poor Brian pulling in and out of traffic. Found ourselves needing to back up from a down-sloping parking area. Scary. The emergency brake on this car is unlike anything I've ever seen, and it releases itself when you put the car in gear. We did not know what it would do in this situation, where you would normally slowly release it as you let up on the clutch. But it worked and we did not take out the fence and crash into the front of what turned out to be our B&B. (The sign in front says "Heather House B&B" - not the name I was expecting!) We parked on the side so we would not have to do that again.

We unloaded the car. Our host informed us he was just recovering from the flu. Nobody wanted to hear that! But he was very nice and the place is lovely and warm. Comfortable beds and a nice lounge / TV room with an incredible view, where I am sitting as I type this. We took off for Glendalough, arriving in time to go through the visitor center and watch the film, during which at least 3 of us dozed off a bit. It was not the film's fault - it's good - we just cannot sit still in a dark place! Then we tromped around the ruins (Tombstones! Now we're talking!) and took lots of photos. The weather was reasonably cooperative. The forecast has been for rain, rain, rain, but it keeps breaking up and giving us blue-sky moments, and we were able to spend a lot of time walking around. Afterward, we went down to Lynham's Pub at the crossroads for a pint and an early dinner. Three of us chose to order 2 starters instead of a main: vegetable soup with brown bread, and venison sausages with a potato pancake and compote. Delicious! Brian had beef stew - served in a bucket. All very nice. Came back to the B&B, and later walked over to the Wicklow Heather Restaurant for a drink. The place was full of diners, no bar really, but they found a table for us. Karen had Irish coffee, which she said was WONDERFUL. Not my thing - I had Guinness.

SATURDAY, 16 May 2009
I was so proud of myself for remembering to set my alarm clock, but it did not go off. We were supposed to be at breakfast at 9 AM and we got out of bed at 8:45. (When I set the time, I accidentally set the current time as a.m. when it was p.m. -DUH. From now on I will set it using the 24 hour display.) Not a good way to start the day, but off we went to the restaurant (2 doors down). I had yogurt with strawberries, in addition to cereal, juice, etc. We did not get on our way until after 11. First stop, the upper lake at Glendalough. The photos will not look like they were all taken on the same day - cloudy, sunny, rainy - we had it all. It is beautiful up there and I'm so glad I finally got to see it. Glendalough is one of those places that I will never get tired of... beautiful and atmospheric. Inspiring, calming. This was my 4th visit and I am sure it is not my last.

But, I knew there was a pint waiting for me at Fitzgerald's in Avoca. Yes, I'm a fan of Ballykissangel. Karen and Brian had never seen the show, but we made them go there anyway. I would not compromise on that!

We stopped at the Parnell Monument in Rathdrum, but did not make a visit to Avondale House, his home. Roger and I had been there before, and the others expressed no interest. We stopped at the Vale of Avoca to see "The Meeting of the Waters" made famous by Thomas Moore's poem. This is where the Avonmore and Beg rivers come together to form the Avoca River and it is also where the rain came down and we jumped back in the car.

THOMAS MOORE, 1779 - 1852    Ireland's National Poet
"The Meeting of the Waters" (1807)
(as engraved on the monument near Avoca)

There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet
As that vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet;
Oh! the last rays of feeling and life must depart
Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart.

Sweet vale of Avoca! how calm could I rest
In thy bosom of shade, with the friends I love best;
Where the storms that we feel in this cold world should cease.
And our hearts, like thy waters, be mingled in peace.

Because it was Saturday, there was a crowd of football fans at Fitzgerald's. Everyone was friendly, and after our pint we managed to take photos out front while the smokers were inside having their pints and watching the game. We went down the road to the Avoca Handweavers for some recreational shopping. The weather took a turn for the worse, and we decided to make the turn toward home.

We had dinner reservations at Wicklow Heather Restaurant. Roger and I ordered the trout, and Karen and Brian ordered lamb chops. We shared a bottle of wine. Wonderful. Rum-raisin and vanilla ice cream for dessert for me, Irish Coffee for the others. They have no idea what they missed!

SUNDAY, 17 May 2009
The restaurant has an additional dining area called the Writer's Room, which we had discussed with the owner (our B&B host, John), and we went in to look it over after breakfast. Amazing assortment of books, letters, photos - a really impressive collection.

After getting the car packed up, we stopped at a very nice shop (I think it was Glendalough Woolen Mills) before heading east to pick up the N11 south. I had read about the 1798 Museum in Enniscorthy and really wanted to see it. Found it, but it was not open and the hours had been scratched off the window. One guide book said it opened at 1:45, so we went and had tea at Doyle's in town. Very nice barman. He was worried we were offended by odor coming off of the wet dog in front of the fire. I didn't even notice, and we are all dog lovers anyway. He asked about where we were headed and sniffed at our mention of Kinsale, calling it "an English town." We had a nice chat, and he did not charge us for the tea. After visiting St. Aidan's Cathedral, we tried the museum again. It looked like it was still in business, but it was not open and we left.

Arrived in Kilkenny. GPS helped find the way. Checked in at Bregagh House B&B. Rosanne & John Brennan gave us a warm welcome and a map of the town. I mentioned that Karen and I had Brennan ancestors and recently learned they came from Co. Kilkenny. Rosanne's reply was "All Brennans do." There is a genealogy center in town, so I will stop by and see if lightning strikes. We walked to Black Abbey, which is lovely and quite interesting. Strolled about town, finally stopping at Kyteler's Inn for dinner. So-so. Had a pint, picked up a few things at Dunne's, and then went back and watched the season finale of Lost before going to sleep. I know. We're boring!