MONDAY, 18 May 2009 - County Kilkenny
Rosanne & John were very helpful in helping us map out our plans every day. Thank you, Bit, for recommending this B&B. The location was perfect for us - easy to get in and out of town for road trips, and within walking distance of everything when we stayed in town. Very comfortable, too. After breakfast, off we went. Of course we had to visit Nicholas Mosse Pottery in Bennetsbridge while we were in the area. In addition to the shop, there is a nice view of the river and bridge from there. Our next stop was Jerpoint Abbey. I love that place; very informative tour, too. Then we found our way to Kells Priory. Sheep everywhere, so you have to watch your step, but if you like ruins, it is amazing. (More than most people would ever want to know is available on this website: http://www.kells.frantzen.de/) A flat stone like a table top has been placed in an open, grassy area, with a poem "The Gardener's Grumble" engraved on it. I'm curious about the significance of it, since it is rare to see something obviously rather new on the grounds of a ruin. Does it relate to something old found here? I don't know.

THE GARDENER'S GRUMBLE
(Modern-day stone on the grounds of Kells Priory, Co. Kilkenny)

It is January.
Ice stands in hoof prints. The dark way of silence.
Light lying down on the straw-coloured grasses.
We are cold and ill-tempered but dinner is pigs' cheeks.
In church they are eating the body of God.

February's Bridget's with spring round the corner.
and hard on the spring comes the sweet smell of summer
three o'clock matins then dawns wild with birdsong
and I'm in the garden, shape-changed to a blackbird
grubbing about in the body of God.

Next, we went to look at "Kilree Round Tower and High Cross" -- but the sign on the gate said "Bull in field" so we stayed out. Couldn't see much through the trees. Stopped at Shirley's Pub in Kells for tea and had a nice chat with the barman. Had no luck finding the abbey in Callan (it's there - I've seen photos!). School was letting out and with the traffic and parked cars it all got too confusing, so we headed for home. Went to Bollard's (61 St Kieran's St.) for a pint and ended up staying for dinner. Very good lamb stew. Took a walk and then returned for Irish coffee (for them) and dessert for me - rhubarb crumble with ice cream. John & Rosanne had told us Cleere's Pub (28 Parliament St.) was having music early in the evening so we went to check it out. Arrived too late to get a good seat. The two tables in front of the musicians were filled with people who just talked louder when the music started unless there was singing, and, no, they were not locals. Embarrassing. The music was great when we could hear it. And the Guinness was good, too.

TUESDAY, 19 May 2009
Spent the day in town. Visited St. Canice's (http://cashel.anglican.org/cances.shtm) which is just up from our B&B. The ladies working there were very friendly and pointed out a sign describing the link between President Obama and his "sixth generation grand uncle", Bishop John Kearney, who is buried in the cathedral. They are hoping this great discovery will cause our President to stop there when he visits Moneygall, Co. Offaly, 40 miles away, where his other relatives live. The church and grounds are beautiful. We did not even check to see if the tower was open; not in the mood for that many steps I guess. We decided to drop off some laundry. Walked all the way to a launderette on Michael Street which was expensive and run that morning by someone in a very bad mood. If you know of another place in Kilkenny, please let me know. Brian went to do some sketching. Karen and I went shopping. We can spend an hour in a bookstore without any trouble at all. Stopped for tea. Visited the Rothe House Museum (http://www.rothehouse.com/). Having met potter Helena Brennan once, I was excited to see a sculpture by her husband, Peter J. Brennan, in the courtyard. (Just a coincidence: my great-grandparents were named Peter J. & Helena Brennan.) Unfortunately, it started raining hard right around the time we were ready to explore the gardens. I thought there was a genealogy library at Rothe House, but it is more of a "members only" resource and the woman who does research happened to be in the USA. I was given a form to send in. We met our fellas at Bollard's for dinner and Guinness. Or Guinness and dinner. Back to the B&B to rest and regroup before going back there for music tonight.

WEDNESDAY, 20 May 2009
After another wonderful breakfast (they made porridge for us!), we drove out to Woodstock Gardens (http://www.woodstock.ie/). Really beautiful, on a hill with a wonderful view of the countryside. Only a few things were blooming there in mid-May, but I imagine the gardens are lovely in the summer. The weather continues to alternate between rain and sun, and we manage to make it work. Patience! Had tea in Inistioge at Circle of Friends Bistro. Pretty little town with a 10-arch bridge. Drove on to Graiguenamanagh (greg-na-mana) to see Duiske Abbey. I was very impressed with this beautiful church. The town has the narrowest streets imaginable. Took a few photos and, after being pursued by a duck so convinced we were carrying something good to eat that she stopped traffic following us, we left for St. Mullin's. There was a path up to the top of "the great motte" there, so I walked up, only to get a dirty look from the dog who was keeping an eye on things from the top. Neither of us spoke, and after taking a few photos, I retreated. The St. Mullin's Monastery site is interesting and we wandered around for a while. (http://www.carlowcountymuseum.com/carlow-county/st-mullins2/index.html)

I found a plaque with this inscription:

"HERE I COME TO WORK AND PRAY,
HERE I BUILD MY ABBEY GREY,
HERE I'LL STAY IN GOD'S PROTECTION,
TILL THE RESURRECTION DAY."
Tradition points to this spot as the burial place of St. Moling of Beloved Memory. Born in 614 (c) his life and labours here till his death in 696 have earned him an undying veneration through all the centuries. May the people of St. Mullins at home and abroad always place themselves under his guiding patronage.
Erected by St. Mullins exiles & friends in New York

Note: I was unaware of the other things around the site, like St. Moling's Well, so I missed it! Also did not make the connection to "The Book of Moling" (or "Mulling") which is on display at Trinity College Library, along with "The Book of Kells". It would be nice if I learned these things BEFORE I traveled, but my head can only hold so much information. In fact, I've been to Trinity Library twice, so I'm sure I saw "The Book of Mulling" there...

Next stop was Gowran, to visit St. Mary's Church. When we arrived, it was raining a little too hard for much photo taking, so we retreated to a pub (Byrne's?) for a Guinness before heading back to Kilkenny. Not feeling particularly ambitious, we went back to Bollard's for dinner and to bid them farewell. We were treated to a small glass of Bailey's and we headed home to pack.