the other Robin
Unregistered User
(10/14/03 4:46 pm)

Chapter Four-Potatoes with Every Meal

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Day 7 – Saturday, September 13

Robin - Yesterday was another soft day. It rained a little, cloudy a little, and then sunshine…you never know what you might encounter in Ireland. We sadly headed out from Wexford as we had come to love our new friends Emmet and Groina. Emmet set us off with a rose bud to remember them by. I HIGHLY recommend their place. The only negative thing that happened there was that my camera was stolen at no fault of theirs. We have a feeling it was someone that had stayed there the same time as us. Groina said it was the very first time they had been STIFFED by someone. The guy was alone and left very early in the morning to avoid paying. I had left my camera in the front seat as we were leaving early the next morning. Emmet usually leaves his car unlocked too but I had locked mine. The problem was, we probably wouldn’t have noticed someone had jimmied the lock because we had a keyless entry system. It is a very safe area but it was stupid of me to leave my camera in the car. I should have known better. Luckily mom has been taking pictures and Randy has an extra digital camera so we have downloaded a lot of pictures. All my film up to this point was in the camera case (another dumb move on my part)

Anyway….we headed for Cork which is only about 70 miles from Wexford but it takes several hours to get there. On the way we stop in Waterford and the Waterford Crystal Factory for a tour. It was awesome to see how the crystal was made and now we realize why it is so expensive. So much goes into each piece. Mom bought a lamp but even a small piece is worth a mint. It will be fun to try and catch a piece at a garage sale from now on now that I know what pieces to look for. We ate lunch in the cafeteria there after we saw their yummy desserts. WOW! (that is our word for the trip….mom keeps saying it but now we all adopted it!) WOW… the desserts are to die for!

Back on the road we go, heading for Cork. Almost to Cork….(dad and mom are asleep in the back seat)..we see Barrycourt Castle. Mom had talked and talked about a Barry Castle and this was it. It turned out to be the most informative tour we took. We saw things from the 15th century and were able to see much of how they lived. Very interesting! They had two characters in costume to give us a demonstration on swords and spears also. Interesting!

Off to Cork we go. As we neared Cork, I began to get concerned about driving in the city since we did not have a Cork map. Everyone said to us, “Don’t drive in Cork!!!”…but sure enough….we were in it before we realized. Once again the Irish came through…we would just roll down our window and yell….can you tell me how to get to ??? and they would kindly help us. We find our B & B rather easily and it is a beautiful old mansion set back in the woods…..Maranatha House! It is very different from our last stay but that makes it fun. I am not sure mom and dad were as thrilled with the accommodations here but we knew anything after the Granville House would be hard to beat.

This B &B B is a very elegant homestead with HUGE rooms, draping velvet over windows and beds, huge mirrors over old fireplaces, fishponds outside the dining area. Randy and I take the Cladaugh Room for tonight but are moving tomorrow night. Mom and dad get the Honeymoon Suite with a big mirror at the back of the bed…..they aren’t too sure about that part but of course it was cause for much teasing. We’re tired so it is off to bed!
       
Day 8 – Sunday, September 14th

Robin – It is a beautiful Lords day! We awoke kind of late so off to the shower I go only to find out that they did not have power showers and there was also no hot water. I was a bit grumpy this morning and wanted to move to a better place!! SHAME ON ME! By the time I got to breakfast, I was mellowing and Olwen Venn, our proprietor fixed a wonderful breakfast of cereal, scones, pastries, bacon, sausage, eggs and fruit. Yum! I finally decided this was just another experience that we needed to chalk up for our Ireland trip and I needed to quit being so grumpy. I will blame it on jet lag!!!

Since it was Sunday and the Lord’s day, we wanted to experience a protestant, evangelical church. We were sent to a Christian Church in downtown old Cork. Knowing the religious history of the country, I figured it would be a ‘storefront church’ and I was right. It was very different than we are used to and lasted a lot longer. Two ladies told of their trips to Africa and to Northern Ireland…VERY GOOD! It was interesting to have a lady from the Republic of Ireland, speak about the problems in Northern Ireland. She spoke of how she, with fear and intripidation, offered a Bible to a staunch catholic lady. She asked her if she had ever read the Bible and she said, “OH NO, it is beautiful book but I would never think of reading it!” How sad! The lady from Africa taught us a song and then told about her trip to Sierra Leon. She showed us pictures of what has happened there and how the terrorist would cut off the arms and legs of people. We were very moved by what she said and left her money to take back to them.

After church we head to the Great Island of Cobh (Cove). We accidentally stumble on the most beautiful catholic cathedral I have ever seen. There are no words to describe the beauty. Even though we are not catholic, we wished we had worshipped here. It took 47 years to complete it and it was completed in the early 1900s. We spend a long time wandering through its sanctuary and taking dozens of pictures. Cobh is a neat village and we get some great pictures of the view from the cathedral. Once we drag mom from the church (smile) we head down to the harbor for some lunch. Since it is Sunday, a lot of things are closed. We try to find a pub where we can eat and finally settle on the Titanic. It had delicious food and we ate outside near the water. It seems there are potatoes with every meal. We have a dog and a little girl that keep us company out on the deck near the water…..ONLY IN IRELAND!!! There is a soccer game and all the pubs have TVs on and lots of people yelling. You don’t dare cross in front of the set…you’ll be lynched. After dinner we drive around the island and end up back at the same spot we started ready to walk around a while. It is hard for dad so he stays in the car. We walk through a beautiful seaside park and then to the Heritage Center. It was rather expensive to get into and I am not sure it was worth it. Mostly you read on the wall the plight of the Irish people during the potato famine and how many of them died. I kept thinking, “I could have read a book and probably would!” All in all, Cobh was a great place to visit and very quaint. It has incredibly hilly streets that are fun to drive on….better make sure your brakes work!!!!

We get back to our B & B only to find out that they have moved Randy and I to the Regal suite and REGAL it is. The ceilings are at least 12-14 feet high in this room. It is nearly as big as some houses I have seen in Cork. There is a king size canopy bed that looks like it comes from a kings chambers, a fireplace, Jacuzzi tub for two, bidet, shower and separate toilet. There are yards and yards of fabric in the curtains alone. We had planned to eat the “Take Away” fish we had purchased on our way home, in the folks room but when we saw the tub we said, SEE YA TOMORROW!!! I will leave the rest of the day and night out of the journal! Let’s just say….oh, never mind! Randy and I have decided we VERY MUCH like Maranatha House even with its dust and cobwebs. Note: before leaving Olwen informs us that she does not charge preachers! WOW…..(here I go again) WOW….3 free nights…another God bonus!

Day 9 – Monday, September 15, 2003

Robin – We all hate the thought that this is the first day of our last week. The days just go too fast. More and more family members are joining our B & B proprietors as they are having a wedding on Saturday. I think by this time tomorrow there will be 25 in the house. Luckily, we will be gone and heading for Dingle Peninsula. This morning we had breakfast and set off for the Blarney Castle. It is a beautiful day. The weather has been nearly perfect while we’ve been here. They have said it has been unseasonably warm and very dry but we aren’t sorry, that is for sure.

The grounds around the castle are incredible. Plants of every kind-each so colorful and green. We head to the castle quickly as two buses just pulled up along with many others. Although September is the ‘shoulder season’, it is still very busy. It is 100+ steps to the top of the castle but since you are waiting in line, it doesn’t seem that long. We all take our turn bending over backwards to kiss the Blarney Stone. I don’t actually put my mouth against the stone but still do the bending. I think this is a joke on us tourist to kiss what used to be a latrine. Even though some know that…we go anyway! It is all in fun and we have a good time visiting with those around us. After touring the castle, we walk through the gardens. It is almost like a dreamland. There are plants that look like giant rhubarb..you can almost imagine a fairy hiding underneath. We see the wishing steps and the balancing rock and I even climb a strangely shaped tree so Randy can get a picture. We hate to leave but must move on. I had heard it was too touristy but we had a great time there and would have loved to wander more. I am sure the beautiful day added to the enjoyment. I wish we had a picnic lunch and more time to wander.

Since we are in Blarney, we can’t miss the Blarney Woolens Mill and shopping. We all come out with several bags and are wondering how in the world we will get it on the plane.

Next stop is Kinsale and lobster. We head to the quaint town and end up driving to its southern most tip to see another castle ruin and a light house. Because someone has bought the actual tip and placed a Golf Course there, we cannot go to the end but we get close. The view is awesome at the Head. We lie on our bellies in the grass and look over the side. The water is very green and the rocks are enormous. I think I could have laid there for hours just drinking in the view. We took lots of pictures and headed back to Kinsale for Lobster. As we get in town, it is very crowded. I can’t imagine what it must be like during tourist season. I hop out of the van to ask some locals where to get Lobster and they point me to “Jim Edwards”, we eat in the pub since it is still early. The lobster was disappointing and small. They tell us that we are at the end of the fishing season and everyone is running out. This is what is left. We eat until we are stuffed and head back to Cork.

We arrive in Cork (yes, we are driving through Cork) and there is a huge festival going on downtown….WHAT A MESS! There was a big Hurling game yesterday between Cork and Kilkenny (Cork lost) and everyone is dressed in red and white. It seems to be some kind of celebration from that game. We drive and drive trying to weave our way through town. We finally find our way back to Blarney where we are staying but none of us can figure out how we got there. I feel like we drove around the world and back. As I said before…..”it is about THE JOURNEY too.” We got to see many parts of Cork we would have missed had we not gotten lost!!!

Day 10 – Tuesday, September 16

Robin - Off we go, leaving Blarney and heading towards Dingle. We stop in Blarney Village to pick up the clothes we have left the night before at the Laundrette. We’ve decided to forego Killarney since we want to spend as much time as possible in the Dingle Peninsula. We begin to see mountains not long after leaving Blarney Village. Ireland is the place of dreams and every turn brings something of wonder! First, even before coming into the hill country, we come upon a beautiful stretch of beach that you could drive on. Mom, Randy and I roll up our pants and head for the water. It is quite a walk to the waters edge because the tide is out. We find curious clam shells about 6-8 inches in length and pick up a few to take with us. It is nearing 2:00 and we are hungry so we stop in at the shop there for junk food to go with the wild salmon we bought for lunch. It is there that we meet a fellow travelor we met at the Headley House….Niles from London. Ireland is such a small island and it has so few main roads that we found later we would see people over and over again. We head to Slea Head and find a beautiful beach at the bottom of high rocks and cliffs. Randy has the GREAT idea that he can just drive down to the bottom. I am not so sure so I hop out to look and am very glad that I did. There was no way our van would have made it back to the top. Mom and dad are tired so they stayed behind. Randy and I would have loved to stay for a much longer time but we didn’t want to leave mom and dad in the van too long…we’ll save that for next time too. There are great caves, rock cliffs and jagged edges to explore. Randy and I both climb a few to take some pictures and head back to the car…off to Dingle we go.

We have reservations at Emlagh Lodge and find it right away but it is too early to check in. We decide to head off on the Slea Head scenic drive. I think, of all the beauty I saw in Ireland…this tops it for natural treasures. We saw ancient forts, standing rocks, fossils, mountains, beaches and awesome views. This is where we found the beehive huts…ancient places of worship from a by-gone era.

…time to head for the B & B. Dingle is a fairly small area so we have learned our way around rather quickly. We head back to the Emlaugh Lodge only to find that she doesn’t have a clue who we are. No problem…she didn’t seem very nice anyway so we take out Michelle’s trusty book and look up another place to stay. Note: I wouldn’t ever stay at the Emlaugh Lodge. She was not a friendly lady and I have all the emails to prove that I have made reservations. I don’t know what happened but she was def. having a bad day.

Heaton House seems like a nice place to at least stop and get some direction and we are right. They had no vacancies but a nice gentlemen directed us to Milltown Inn. What a great place! Mark and Anne are just delightful. Both of them are great fun and tease us most every day. The rooms are wonderful and the food was out of this world. Mark is a wonderful tour guide and helps us with restaurants and sightseeing. We would highly recommend it and would come back in a second. It IS a pricey stop but well worth every penny in my estimation.

Day 11 – Wednesday, September 17

Robin – We wake this morning to clouds and the promise of rain so Mark advises us to do our driving and sightseeing in the AM before the rain starts so we start off for Connor Pass. I had heard it was a narrow piece of road but very scenic and it turned out to be so true. At every turn and corner we ohhh’d and ahh’d! Again our word for the day was WOW! We stopped several places to enjoy the beauty but there was one particular place that was exceptionally great. The group stopped to admire the view on the side of the road and get a picture of the four of us near a waterfall. The young lady that took the picture told us, if we were up for a climb, we could find a lake between the mountains. Of course Randy and I jumped at the chance but mom decided she was up for it too. Dad was not too keen on her climbing but she was determined. It looked to be a climb of about 250 feet or so over boulders the size of a small car. What a blast! We all made it and the climb was worth the energy. WOW….here I go again! I think I need another adjective but there are no words to express it!

The road to Connor Pass was very narrow and several times we had to pull over as much as possible to let a car pass. Most of the time there is a small rock ledge to keep you from falling over the cliffs. I say MOST of the time!

Mark advised us to do most of the ring of Dingle but to cut back through the Slieve Mish Mountains. I think, of all the roads we took, this was the most narrow, the most dangerous, the steepest, the most beautiful and had the most sheep on it. We stopped at a house to find out if we were on the right road because, of course, it was not marked and was so narrow, we couldn’t imagine it could be right. At the first house, I stepped out of the car door only to be met by the barking of several dogs. When I got to the front door there was a sign that said, “Beware of the Dalmation”…..I made a hasty retreat back to the car and promised the rest of the passengers that I was not getting back out if there was any signs or any barking. Luckily, since the houses are built just a few feet from the door you can see right in some of the houses and I spotted a gentlemen getting ready to leave. Since we were back in the hills, I was hoping he didn’t shoot strangers. He informed us we were right on the mark.

The sheep were so funny! They would just stand there as we drove by. I am almost sure I could have grabbed some wool as we drove up to them but I didn’t think they would like that so refrained from that particular action. All the sheep have ink on their backs but we haven’t quite figured out why. We are supposing it has something to do with keeping your sheep separate from everyone else. We often saw sheep far away from any home, way up on the mountain. I can’t imagine how anyone could collect them all for shearing.

Day 12 – Thursday, September 18, 2003

Randy – We packed it up and headed out from the Milltown Inn in Dingle. It was a marvelous B&B and considering the ugly reception we received when we tried to check into the Emlaugh Lodge, the folks at Milltown in were angelic answers to our quick prayers. Mark & Ann were our hosts and the accommodations were absolutely superb. The place wasn’t, but it looked new, and it was apparent that Ann runs a tight ship. The gourmet quality breakfast couldn’t have been better and Mark not only provided wonderful service, but his sense of humor set the sun shining no matter the weather outside the glassed-in dining area.
        Dingle was so pleasant and there was so much to see in the area… from the historic (and even pre-historic) to the cultural… that we really hated to leave. I guess we have said that about everywhere we have been in Ireland, but it is true. We have done so much, seen so many things, and taken in all we could in this short time, but we haven’t scratched the surface.

        We hit the road and headed toward Shannon and our friend Kathleen at the Headley House. Part way through the day I realized that we had actually just said goodbye to the ocean… at least for a couple of days… until we fly over it on Friday! We were thinking about all the wonderful things that we have done and the fact that we had tasted and experienced a little of everything there is, when we spotted a windmill! No kidding, a windmill in the middle of Ireland. There is only one working windmill in the country and we had managed to drive right to it without anyone directing us. We drove through the countryside and some things changed. Several things we noticed… the fuscia bells disappeared… just north of Crag Cave it seemed. Also the mountain ranges turned into rolling hills. They are still green and lush, but different.

        We ate a nice lunch at a place called Riorden’s Restaurant in Abbeyfaele. It was such a typical Irish establishment. We had to walk through the pub to get to the restaurant portion of the business. When we finished lunch, one of the ladies from the kitchen area stopped to ask us a question and immediately another one ran out to get in on the conversation. They seemed very anxious to converse with some Americans. They didn’t know where Indiana was, but lit up when we mentioned its proximity to Chicago.

We shopped in the Blarney Woolen Mill store when we arrived in Blarney, the checked into our B&B. When we had finished, we went to Headley House. Had to sort out our stuff! So much to go into the suitcases and so much that just won’t. We will all have a bit more to carry on, but we’ll make it. Don’t really want to think about leaving. This has been the trip of a lifetime. The weather, the people, the accommodations and just everything else! We can feel inside that its time to stop vacationing, and return to the real world, but …

Day 13 – September 19 –

Randy - Got up about 7:15 or so… We had repacked our bags the night before and stuffed our stuff in every crack and crevice in order to get it all in. We are now all carrying an extra carry-on. My bodran is strangely shaped and required special handling, so I have put hats and soft things in the back of it and carried it on.
        We killed a bit of time in Shannon because we felt like we were a bit early, but as it turned out, we really were none too ahead-of-schedule. Well, I guess that became relative when, at about 12:35 (boarding should have commenced at 12:15) they came over the speakers and announced that the flight was delayed due to some ‘mechanical difficulties! WHAT DOES THAT MEAN!? This plane is going to have to fly over the entire Atlantic Ocean without stopping or hesitating… so… does ‘mechanical difficulty’ mean ‘a stewardess broke her high heel’ or ‘the wing fell off and we don’t have enough duct tape to keep it on!’?
        At approx. 1:30 they called us to board… everyone at once… it was a bum’s rush to the gate! The line went in from both directions and the line was long. Mom did as she had coming… waited until the last to board. She doesn’t like the wait.

Alas...we are on the way home! Sniff!

Michele Erdvig
ezOP
Posts: 1902
(10/14/03 10:26 pm)

Re: Chapter Four-Potatoes with Every Meal

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Hi Robin,

We all enjoyed your full trip report and various suggestions, tips and personal recommendations. So sorry to hear about your camera being stolen. What a dreadful man! But I'm sure that all the rest of your adventures made up for the one bad experience. BTW, the sheep are dyed different colors on different areas of their bodies so they know who owns them (like branding cattle). So glad to hear you enjoyed Dingle and Connor Pass. They are not to be missed. I hope that you get to return to Ireland again soon.

Michele