stannseniors
Registered User
Posts: 57
(11/7/03 3:45 pm)

Chapter Three of our Trip (From the Ring of Kerry to Home)

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October 7, 2003

Up this morning at 7:30 (went to bed at midnight) to go on our tour of the Ring of Kerry. Pat had convinced us it was better than driving because you sat much higher and could see over the hedgerows – not to mention you didn’t have to drive those roads! (20 Euro each for the tour)
We sat at breakfast looking out on a VERY windy and rainy morning. The sky was dark and full of clouds yet Pat promised it was going to be a fine day and it would clear up---to our astonishment, it did! We had breakfast and talked to Glen and Sheila from Ontario – very nice couple. I also told pat that we walked in on the German couple – he thought it was so funny but I was embarrassed to see them walk in – pat gave me a knowing wink and grin about it all. I got up enough courage to apologize and he was very nice about it – we all had a good laugh.
We were picked up at the B&B with Glen and Sheila and driven to the bus – we made a few more stops and luckily we sat on the right side of the bus (the scenery side) The Ring was absolutely beautiful – I took three roles of film just trying to capture some of it but it’s not possible. It was like nothing we had ever seen. There were a few stops along the way – the bus driver was very opinionated and the ride got a little preachy about his own views…but you can tell he’s passionate about his country – we loved that. We stopped for lunch at this little place that had odd food – not very good and VERY pricey (22 Euro for both). I wonder how much of a kickback the bus company gets? Tony and I saw the bus driver enjoying a beer with lunch in the bar-yikes! We stopped to watch a demo of sheepdogs herding sheep and it was so interesting – each dog has it’s own whistles and they do so many things – such a big help to the shepherd! We saw Danielle and Mary (a mother and daughter we met at Danny Mann last night)

Back at the B&B we washed up and changed into our “smoke clothes” (the ones’ that already stunk from the last few nights of being in the pubs) and walked to town. We ate at Murphy’s pub again (fish and chips and turkey and stuffing -20 Euro) and went to Danny Mann’s to hear a different band. But, we ordered ice cream (for $4.50 Euro) and they asked us to move to a different table then the ice cream came out with like 2 little tiny scoops—we got a little miffed and we told the waiter we were a little disappointed at how much we spent for so little – he didn’t want to fix the problem because the “cooks would get mad” so Tony asked for the manager---miraculously he got another tiny bowl of ice cream never talking to the manager and we dropped it. Before the music even started we left feeling very unwelcome. We wondered around getting a little turned around – so we decided to just go back and go to bed.

We upped our itinerary one day by not staying in Kinsale two nights so we are off to Dingle tomorrow – Pat’s suggestion - and will drive the Slea Head on the Dingle Peninsula then to Doolin the next day.

*As a side note: The day we went to Kilkenny we stopped in at a chemist to ask if Tony could get something for his legs that were itching from the knee down (had been for weeks but his scratching was driving us both crazy). The Pharmacist handed him some pills and he took one every day. His itching stopped but we realized it was a prescription he handed him! Oh, that socialized medicine!


Oct 8th, 2003

Drove to Dingle today then around Slea head – oh my – what an awesome drive! We stopped I don’t know how many times just to stand and look at the scenery. It seemed like a few of the same couples were always where we stopped and we all took turns taking pictures of the others. On these coast rods you sometimes drive on roads that are so close to the cliffs edge-It made me a little scared but it was so worth it to see that area!

We went through so many little towns that spoke Irish as their first language –The signs painted on the streets we basically knew were slow, slower and very slow. Ssometimes even the directional signs were only in Gaelic and it was difficult to decipher where we needed to turn. We stopped at a potter’s shop and bought some coffee mugs—everything was so beautiful but very pricey—one day we’ll buy a whole place setting. Tony said every time he drinks coffee from that mug he’ll remember the awesome view from the shop where we bought it. I went up a hill and saw some beehive huts 1100 AD and I offered to take a picture for two young girls but I didn’t think they heard the offer the first time so I said it again and very loud one of them yelled (in front of many other people) – “I will not let you take out picture, you may steal my camera!” I was a little shocked and everyone around laughed. I just said “I have two cameras around my neck that are much better than yours, why would I want it?” I wonder if their parents warned them about that? I thought it was funny….but it hurt a little – do I look like a camera thief? Lol

On the way back to our B&B we helped shepherd some cows that were on the highway. Four or five very large cows were caught in between hedgerows and didn’t want to really go anywhere but a little old man in the car in front of us was driving a little bitty car with his head and arm out the window beating on the side of the car and trying to get them to move. It was quite comical so we drove on the right side of the road and mad them move until a younger guy in front of them could lead them into a field. It was out only animals in the road we encountered.

A real Irish experience today!

The down of Dingle is a little more spread out but so quaint and lovely. Our B&B (The lighthouse) had the most beautiful view of anywhere we had stayed. You looked out on Dingle harbor and all those mountains – a post card view - quite beautiful!
We came down to eat in town and parked the car about a half a mile from our B&B. We went to a little shop that had Italian food (a girl from Spain was working there) The pizza and calzone and lasagna were all sitting out and they would cut a piece off and reheat it in the oven – yikes – that wouldn’t happen here. But,when in Rome… It was good and we ate it outside on a stone wall overlooking a cute little creek.
we walked back to the B&B but oh my, we walked the wrong way and it was very cold and wet. Tony had to walk farther to retrieve the car and I sat on the front porch and watched the sunset over Dingle bay – Gorgeous!

At 9pm we decided to drive to town to hear some music at Murphy’s pub (I think every town must have a Murphy’s pub) But it was too smoky. We walked down to John Benny Moniarty and we listened to some Irish folk music. The people sitting behind me and to the left sounded like they were on a Monty Python re-run---it was better than the music – they could not have been real-it seemed so put on! When they left we decided the entertainment was over and we left too and walked down the street to another pub to hear 60, 70s and 80s music. Two young guys were playing the guitar and singing – they were good. A girl from America was visiting and she came up to sing a few Jewel songs – she was pretty good but we left after she was done.


Oct 9th, 2003

Got up early and sat at the window to see the wonderful view. No TV in the room so it was nice and peaceful. We met a six person group from Illinois and we all shared a little about were we’ve all been. They had two flat tires already – one on Connor’s pass – YIKES! We stopped at Listowel for a little shopping and a breather before going to the ferry to go to the Cliffs of Moher. It is a nice little town and not touristy – the stores were really for locals.

The closer we got to the cliffs, the more beautiful the Ocean scenes. The cliffs are definitely something that cannot be captured in a photo. You must “experience them” – Magnificent is the only word that comes to mind for that place. The wind was so strong that it blew us off balance a lot of times---but still there were people going out to the edge – stupid! Most crawled – at least they hadn’t lost their minds completely.

The Cliffs were just so incredible. Obrien’s lookout looked so cool – like a castle on top of this tall cliff- we had to walk all the way around and take a picture from that side. I guess it was private property but we jumped the fence like everyone else and did it. How incredible – we could have stayed there all day- it was getting dark and we had been there for about 2 hours

We drove to Doolin just before dark and found our B&B – Seaview was the prettiest little place sticking out of a hill and the most incredible view! Ocean, town and castle ruin from left to right…pretty neat little town (small but quaint). We ate at O’Connell’s right down the driveway and down the street from the B&B. We saw Danielle and her mother from a few days ago – imagine that? We had dinner with them anf decided to come back and listen to the music later. We drove down to the end of a little road and found where the ferries take you to the Aran Islands. The ferries were closed for the season but the scenery was so breathtaking. We walked all the way up to the end of the rocks – what a thrill, the waves were at least 20 feet high, the wind was wiping around us – incredible. I had to practically drag Tony back—the sun was almost gone and by the time we got into the car it was dark and we were soaked from the mist – we didn’t even feel we were getting wet the weather was so “soft”. Moonlight was lighting the ocean and it was so beautiful. We went back to O’Connel’s pub and listened to some music and back to B&B.

October 10th, 2003

Gorgeous day—we walked into some of the shops in Doolin (not too many) we drove trying to find the jam shop and went off the beaten path – we found a castle overlooking the ocean – beautiful – and a little shop I bought the most beautiful zip up sweater with a hood---I love it. We also bought Dan and Shelly a coffee mug. We drove back to the end again and marveled at the view, got some great pictures.

We drove through the Burren and stopped at a fort from 500AD – not worth 6 Euro each – but was interesting - we touched the stones and took pictures. The drive was beautiful along the coast – next time Galway!!
We drove to Ballyvaughn and ate at Monk’s---great seafood! We both had open faced crab sanwiches. They were delicious and we had the crab by itself and the salad all separate – that’s so funny.
They have the best chocolate icecream I’ve tasted – some strange name but I’ve never heard of it. We then drove to Ennis and tried to shop but everything was for the locals.
We came into Bunratty at about 2:30 – shopped until 5:15 getting all the souvenirs we missed and trying to find something for Tony. I had gotten a nice chain with a celtic knot and a sweater – Tony had only bought a coffee mug. There’s only one store in Bunratty and nothing that Tony liked was in his size.
We had to go to the castle for our medieval dinner and when we pulled into the parking lot – there was Danielle and her Mary---this was starting to get weird.
The dinner was okay – the acting was poor – they should have us to dinner theater! They sand well and did a lot of medieval sounding songs in harmony. We had soup out of a bowl and poured from pitchers – it had turnips in it. Then ribs – Tony liked them but I’m not a rib eater. Then more meat then desssert. I didn’t eat much. We tried the Mead – made with honey – like very wine. We also tried snuff – it was like vic’s vapo rub up our nose---cleans out the sinuses! Tony found out that         the violinist went to Juliard in New York and would be at Mac’s Pub later. We told Mary and Danielle we would meet them at Durty Nellie’s at 9:30 – we had to go and pack.

We went to Durty Nellie’s and got there a few minutes early – Tony had worn the clothes he was going to wear home on the plain – I convinced him to go back and change so he didn’t stink up the plane with his smoky smell. By the time we got back we thought we must have missed them. We walked over to the Creamery and listened to 60s and 70s music. It was packed because it was a Friday night. All the local young crowd was out. We asked a few people how to get to Mac’s pub and we finally found it – it’s in the Bunratty Fold park but you go in a back way. There sat Danielle and Mary – we talked until 12:40 and the band played on. We went to bed at 1:15 and had to be up by 6am!
October 11th, 2003


Mary let us get up really early and fed us a little something. We had to be at the airport by 8am. The airport is a little confusing – make sure and go to the bathroom before you go to the terminal to leave. The Vat slip thing was confusing and I thought we were in the right place until I asked – then we had to practically run into the plane.

I hated to leave but I longed for my bed---we are already planning a trip back.
When anyone asked me “how was Ireland” I just can only say “magical”.

Michele Erdvig
ezOP
Posts: 1937
(11/8/03 12:09 am)

Re: Chapter Three of our Trip From the Ring of Kerry to Home

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Hi stannseniors,

What a great trip report! I really enjoyed it and felt like I was along for the ride. The part about being camera thieves was a hoot. It does happen in Europe but I have yet to hear of it happening in Ireland. Could the pottery shop in Dingle have been Louis Mulcahy? The one with the huge pots outside.

I'm so glad to hear that you want to return to Ireland again. When you are ready to start planning you know where to get good info. And for your next trip, let me recommend the ice cream at Texas Steakout in Limerick and The Italian Connection in Kilkenny. Those places know how to serve a decadent ice cream dessert -- and plenty of it.


Michele

P.S. Mary Browne said that you were lovely guests and she enjoyed meeting you. My husband and I were at Bunratty Lodge just before you arrived. Too bad we couldn't have met in person.