What a long day! The flight to New Jersey was in the smallest plane I’d ever been on. It was 7 feet across inside and only just under 6 feet to stand—felt sorry for the tall guys. It was also very cramped with two seats on one side and one on the other – weird. The 6 hour flight from New Jersey was long, hot and cramped. I almost lost it at 3 am (Ireland time) – had to wake Tony and passenger 10C and crawl out to the “lav” in my socks just to wet some paper towels to dab my face and neck.
We did not start out our trip on a good note. I, being nervous and not so bright, put 16 rolls of film in my luggage and checked it in. Realizing, at the metal detectors, what I had done I panicked and asked security but and it had been through the X-ray and was assured it was probably ruined. I was practically in tears but Tony assured me we would get some when we landed. Of course that would not do because of the prices of film in Ireland so I called a co-worker who bought some and brought it to the airport – what a sweetie!
So, feeling better and the air being turned on, the plane was getting close and it was ahead of schedule so we would land in the dark – 7:10am instead of 7:45am. I was a little disappointed we would not see Ireland at sunrise but I was happy to finally arrive so – no complaint.
Clouds, clouds, clouds is all we saw on landing and we all were anxious – we got out of there pretty quickly. We walked outside just as the Dan Dooley van was pulling up. The smell in the air was odd, can’t really describe it, maybe like fertilizer? Wondered if it would smell like that everywhere. Maybe it was the smell of clean air – ha ha.
The driver taking us for our car was such a nice gentleman and gave us the best advice, “stay left, look right” – we didn’t know how important that would be. We got in the car and kept saying that allowed as to sink it in!
Driving was a hoot and so strange at first and truly a freaky experience. Tony did a great job but it took a lot of concentrating. One thing they like in Ireland is signs---they are everywhere and it’s so hard to read them all as you drive along. We followed the signs to Limerick and even went around turn-a-bouts—thankfully it was early in the morning and there wasn’t a lot of traffic so it was easier for Tony to get acclimated. We came into Bunratty and it was so awesome to just drive right up to a castle—what a sight! Nothing was open and we saw the sign for our B&B so we drove there on a NARROW street (later to find out this was a standard road) about 2 miles to find our B&B. She was busy with breakfast and suggested we come back after 1pm so we went back up to the castle, parked nearby and walked across the street to the “Castle Hotel”. They served a breakfast buffet for 11Euro each but we were starving and didn’t want to wait – but I wish we had. The brown bread was dry and hard, the sausage was odd and a little mushy, the ham (bacon) was greasy and cold but there were some eggs-can’t do too much wrong to eggs. Also on the buffet there were beans (like pork and beans) and they were served with toast and then, mushrooms and hot tomatoes. Nothing was hot and all was bland. I told Tony if the food in Ireland was all like this I was not going to have to worry about gaining weight on vacation! I guess I was a little cranky from the flight too. (just read through this and I sound like a big complainer). I stuck with ham (bacon), mushrooms, kiwi and orange juice. Tea with three lumps (they sure can make tea) for me and Tony ate everything in site saying “everything is uniquely different” but he’s already worried about putting on weight and claims he will “run for at least 15 minutes every day (even if it’s only in place)” We’ll see if that happens.
1pm Paid 10Euro a piece to go to Bunratty Castle and Park—very interesting and we really enjoyed ourselves. The Castle was so fascinating and we even crept down to the dungeon – pretty scary place- - just a dark hole with 2 peeps of sunlight on the wall and bars near the top---Tony has promised to be good. The village was great and we saw some of the places people would have lived and even saw livestock, a church, a beautiful lake and big haystacks on top of what looked like barstools—very clever to keep out the rats and snakes (I thought St. Patrick ran all of them out!).
Checked into Bunratty Lodge, Mary is very nice. We decided to nap until 4 so I set the alarm (good thing we brought it – there are no alarm clocks).
10:30pm Just returned from the Ceili and we can’t say enough about it. It was much like dinner theater and felt like the real Ireland – even though this is just for the tourists – what a great start to the trip! The salad was all separate: lettuce, beets, slaw, potato salad (really good), carrots, and egg, and cucumbers all on the plate but not mixed up – just the way I like it! The Irish stew was delicious (couldn’t even tell there was lamb). We sat with Helga and Hans from Hamburg Germany. Another German man sat with us – he had MS or parkinson’s, he was young and VERY shy. He was so happy to realize that Helga and Hans were speaking German. The entertainment was brilliant and were some of the most talented young people! The lead man/MC reminded me so much of the guys I do dinner theater with (an Irish Lloyd). They finished off the meal with an apple pie that a little lady made in one of the huts at the Bunratty village and was flatter than the American version but still good—they served it with Irish cream. The signing and dancing was authentic and when the singer sang “O Danny Boy” it was like hearing it the way it was supposed to be sung – not exactly perfect but just right. The young boy that did the dancing out did the Riverdance guy by far – what a performer!
After the English travel agent hotsy-totsy made a play for Tony while I was in the “toilet” – we met Loao who was from Portugal but lived and worked in Amsterdam selling diamonds and rubies. Everyone is so nice here – two girls from Yorkshire said they would e-mail me a Yorkshire pudding recipe but said “only grannies from Yorkshire could really make them right”. Since they had a little too much fun at the party they forgot to get me address so off the Dirty Nellies but it was too crowded and too smoky so we went back to the B&B and to bed – we were pooped. The bed was so comfy (everything is filled with feathers I guess) and the windows opened without screens but no bugs – the air is delightful!
Oct 4, 2003
We made it to Kilkenny! We woke up at 7:30am (I was awake at 5:30am and couldn’t go back to sleep) We have found these “crisps” (potato chips) that are salt and vinegar and we munched on those the last two days-and I’m sure we will the rest of the trip. Mary fixed us a nice breakfast with the most delicious homemade raspberry jam – what is it with the bread here? The Irish sure don’t know how to make moist bread! We had eggs, bacon (ham) and really good hash browns or mashed potato croquets. The bread with raisins and currents was my favorite – smother that with raspberry jam and you have a meal!
Then we were off – we got side tracked a few times but people were very helpful about giving directions. We found the Rock of Cashel by accident. We stopped and asked a women walking her dog and she told us to leave our car where it was and walk up the hill to save the parking fee—we didn’t realize we were so close. We walked up a steep gravel path and there it was – an awesome site – It was so impressive we just stood there and imagined what it would have been like to come upon it way back when. I would think you would think twice before trying to invade – that’s for sure. It was 5 Euro each to get in but it was worth it. We were so moved by being in a place that St. Patrick baptized a king and just being in such a place of history. The wind was so strong it was knocking me down and we walked into it at an angle. I don’t know how all of the tombstones and walls survived this many years with that wind! The cemetery was full of celtic crosses and even a replica of the cross of St. Patrick. Lots of pictures.
Then off to Kilkenny – we took a side road and went through so many nice little villages. Tipperarey and Kilkenny are bustling towns. It was a Saturday and all the locals were enjoying a little shopping. There are WAY too many people on these streets and Tony driving down the narrow streets – yikes----We went to Cnoc Mhuire B&B and Helen was very nice….she showed us to our room and we are off to explore Kilkenny!
4pm All the locals out buying all they need – it was interesting seeing all the regular stores they shop in– boy things are expensive for them too!. After shopping up/down castle road we had lunch at Langton Restaurant and pub (19E) . Tony had the roast lamb and I had the turkey and ham – both came with delicious dressing, 2 boiled potatoes, minced broccoli and carrots and peas. It was all very yummy. We went back to the B&B to rest (my foot was really hurting and Tony needed to take a nap – the jet lag really has gotten him). He slept for two hours and he was up, re-energized.
We went back into the city to hear some traditional music. We finally found a car park and walked to Anna Conda (suggested by Helen) but nothing was happening there yet so we walked down to Kytler’s pub (had to see it). Went back to Anna Conda and waited. They didn’t have food but Tony asked the barkeep if he could go and bring something in---so what did he find to eat in Ireland? Chicken Curry and chips (only in the UK). It was down right delicious soaking those chips in that curry sauce – let me tell you. We got there at 8:30pm and the music was supposed to start at 9:30pm but it was going to be more like ten---not many people here now – we’ll see…
1:30am Boy did the place fill up!! Everyone started arriving around 9:30 and by ten the music started – just a pick up group like a jam session but real traditional music – talented musicians, they sat at a corner table – nothing fancy and played the guitar, banjo and Irish drum. Someone joined them from the pub with a juice harp and one with a whistle. Even a few people sang—really neat. About 10:30pm the place was pretty full and we had two seats next to us up in front—two people around our age came in and we told them they could sit with us. My first thought was it looked like our friends Mike and Mark Fernandez but I didn’t say anything to Tony. They sat and we found out they were from Spain and they were living in Ireland teaching at a Spanish school in Brae near Dublin. We had a wonderful time talking with them and I finally confessed I thought he looked like our friends (twins) and they just so happened to grow up in Spain—that was coincidence enough but then we said their last name was Fernandez and that was their name too! Rodrigo and Beatrice Fernandez---nice couple. Can’t wait to tell our friends. Home to Cnoc Mhuire at last to bed---Melatonin, smoke smell and all!
I am thoroughly enjoying your trip. Keep the chapters coming! It was nice seeing your photos too. I'm glad to hear you enjoyed the Ceili and Bunratty Folk Park and Castle. Many times people think they are too "touristy" and skip them but when people actually go they are pleasantly surprised.
A note about why Mary Browne's bread is so good: she bakes it fresh every evening and makes her raisin bread a little differently each time. Manys the evening I have sat in her kitchen watching her make the bread and smelling the wonderful scent of fresh-baked bread waft through the house. Delicious.
I would be very interested in your critique of Cnoc Mhuire B&B in Kilkenny. I inspected it but have yet to personally stay there. Did you like it? Were you comfortable? How was breakfast?
I am eagerly awaiting the continuing saga. Thanks so much for sharing!