Arrival Day:

It should be understood that our granddaughter (Ms. 'Just Days Shy of 18') visited Ireland with us previously, in 2013. She was referred to then as 'Just Turned 8'! Thus, her memories and expectations were generally vague. She was relying on us to determine what was important for her to see and experience. At the same time, we wanted to expose her to new experiences, reintroduce her to her Irish relatives and foster a deeper appreciation for the country, her heritage and her family's ties.

See: One Trip -- Two Visits; June/July 2013 - Ireland Travel Forum (activeboard.com)

She was also The First of the Best and her birth featured prominently in my 2005 report:

OLD REPORT -- JUNE 2005 'Round Ireland in A Mini-Bus' -- The Guilty Pleasures Tour!#1 - Ireland Travel Forum (activeboard.com)

After departing the airport, I headed onto theM50 toward the N7, but whilst concentrating on fulfilling my duties of a good guide (some might call it, Pontificating), I ended up getting boxed in to a exit / turn lane and proceeded to embark on a tour of suburban, North Dublin. By the time my spotty wifi/data connection came through and brought me onto the N7, I somehow managed to avoid the M50 toll (saving 3.20 Euro) but at the cost of about 40 minutes of meandering through city traffic. Fortunately, since it was the May Bank Holiday Monday, actual traffic wasn't particularly onerous!

We made our way to Kildare, where we stopped in to the Silken Thomas for a delightful noon meal and then, were back on the road, just before 2 PM.

Our next stop was in Moneygall, for the Barack Obama Service Plaza, which GD found to be delightfully quirkey paricularlly, the interesting mini-museum located upstairs, that highlights the Irish heritage of MANY US officials.

By the time we arrived in Limerick, it was close to 4 PM. It was also the Monday of the May Bank Holiday and downtown Limerick was still awash in celebrants of Riverfest 2023:

Riverfest Limerick | Limerick.ie

Although things were 'winding down', parking was difficult (particularly in view of the myriad of one way streets) but I fortunately found a short term solution at a space on Glentworth Street I sight of the Garda Station and the (temporarily full Harvey's Quay Q Park which is the designated parking for our night's stay at the George Hotel:

The George Boutique Hotel Limerick | Hotel in Limerick City (thesavoycollection.com)

We unloaded our luggage and walked the 2 ½ blocks to the hotel and checked in. While the ladies refreshed, I returned to the Dacia and relocated it to a now available space in the secured parking garage. After making my way back to the hotel, the three of us set out on foot to explore our surroundings.

There was a substantial gathering within Arthur's Quay Park, but we skirted around the entrance as they were closing up. We walked along, past the Hunt Museum, following the foot paths and pedestrian bridges to the Potato Market Car Park, where the Mrs. and the Ms. Went for a ride on the Panoramic Wheel: (2) Facebook

After their ride, we walked past (but did not enter) Saint Mary's Cathedral and King John's Castle after which, we crossed the Thomond Bridge, made a quick stop at the Treaty Stone and then, followed along the Shannon until recrossing, over the Sarsfield Bridge. From there, it was a short trip to return to the hotel, where we enjoyed a light evening meal. Having been awake since around 4 AM, we opted to make an early night of it.

More To Come . . .

The Rest of Day 2:

The weather was cool and overcast. but otherwise politely cooperative during our entire visit to Bunratty but the changed rapidly after our departure. We encountered mist by Adare, but by the time we reached the waterfall pull off on the North side of Conor Pass, it had progressed to full on rain. Nevertheless, we enjoyed a photo stop at the waterfall and a shorter (and slightly less enthusiastic) additional photo op at the Car Park at the top of the pass.

We made our way to our home for the next two nights Dingle Harbor Lodge.

Dingle Harbour Lodge - Quality Affordable Accommodation Dingle - B&B Dingle - B&B Dingle Ireland - Dingle Harbour Lodge

Our triple room wasn't overly large once the three beds were accounted for and the building certainly had a bit of age to it but it was clean, well-maintained and also hosted a decently sized bathroom. Within EASY walking distance of town, it also hosted a substantial parking area. Price for two nights, B&B came to a toral of 370 Euro. Staff and our breakfast were equally decent. I was definitely pleased with our stay.

The rain dwindled away to soft, intermittent light burst, so we walked into and around town. We enjoyed a pub meal at Murphy's checked out the stained-glass windows inside An Diseart, enjoyed a treat from a different Murphy's (ice cream) and browsed our way through three or four shops, before calling it an evening and returning to our lodgings.

Home Page - Díseart Institute of Irish Spirituality and Culture in Dingle (diseart.ie)

All in a VERY pleasant day!

More to Come. . .

Of the standard offerings, my personal favorite is the Brown Bread, but on the day, I opted for the Raspberry Sorbet.

Granddaughter chose the Sea Salt Caramel.  My wife has sadly become Lactose intolerant in just the past couple of years.

Our Flavours murphysicecream.ie

Day 3: Slea Head Drive

This morning, after a satisfying breakfast, we set out to tour Slea Head Drive. Most of the day was cool, blustery and overcast, but there was no rain, so it was near perfect. Our route a stops are detailed here:

https://goo.gl/maps/urg3dYQbCWgQHeFg6

Because our Granddaughter is a HUGE animal lover, our first stop was at the Lios Stone Circle and Animal Feeding:

Take a look at The Lios (also called Fairy Fort) - just off Head Road. Pre Celtic Ruins. - Review of Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry, Ireland - Tripadvisor

There, for a small fee, you are given a small plastic container of food pellets and are nearly over-run by the free ranging goats and sheep. Additionally, there are a variety of other animals that remain within a fenced enclosure including shetland ponies and pigs. The owner (I think) also bought out a number of milk bottles which he passed out to random visitors so they could 'bottle feed' some of the smaller lambs.

Our GD had marveled at the abundance of furze (gorse) she glimpsed during our earlier drives and was delighted to discover an abundance of it growing about the property particularly along the approaches to the titular, 'Lios' an earthen walled (banked0, roughly circular enclosure that was likely used as a protected homestead, rather than a true 'ring fort'.

Our second stop came shortly after at he signposted 'Hold A Baby Lamb' which also boasts being home to a few Beehive huts although they are of more 'modern' (19^th century) construction. because BABY LAMBS!

Beehive Huts

Our next stop brought us deep into the parking area of Coumeenoole Beach. Whilst we could have parked up at the top of the rather steep stone staircase, I opted to take the circular drive down to near the bottom of those steps. The beach was a delight if a tad breezy.

Because we had spent so much time already, we didn't stop again until availing of shopping (and rest rooms!) at Louis Mulcahy Pottery.

Louis Mulcahy: Irish Hand Crafted Pottery Louis Mulcahy Pottery

Moving along, I next detoured to the often-overlooked Riasc Monastic ruins seemingly 'hidden' down a mostly unmarked, narrow side road. As expected, we had the place entirely to ourselves. It's a magical place, fraught with history. Given how much time we had already spent, we did not avail ourselves of a visit into the Museum of Chorca Dhuibhne, in Ballyferriter which contains artifacts recovered at the site and also offers brochures.

Reask Monastic Site (dingle-peninsula.ie)

Next stop was a visit into Gallarus. We entered through the 'Official' site in order to avail use of the rest rooms and gift shop, but we didn't view the video first, in order to save a few minutes time.

Gallarus Oratory

Just to add a juxtaposition to the Gallarus experience, I next stopped to show my GD Dingle's OTHER oratory located just opposite the 'Modern' cemetery located immediately before Kilmalkedar.

Saints and Stones: St. Brendan Oratory (Teampaillin Breanainn)

Our final stop for the day's tour brought us to what I consider as one of the major jewels along the Slea Head the ruins at Kilmalkedar and its rather extensive collection of artifacts.

Kilmalkedar Early Christian Site, Kerry (megalithicireland.com)

We then returned to our B&B, parked the car and walked into town to purchase dinner from the little chip van / portable located in the small car park alongside of Murphy's Pub. GD found the Fish & Chips very much to her liking! After a short 'walk about' we returned to the B&B to pack up and relax in preparation for next day's expected long travel / driving day.

For our route, Dingle to Dingle, Google claims 46.6 kilometers and suggests a Drive Time of 1 hour and 12 minutes. It took us somewhere in the vicinity of 7 hours Demonstrating the KEY difference between SEEING and VISITING!

More To Come . . . 

Day 4: West Cork Bound!

Our route today: https://goo.gl/maps/BGtDcGRYoZiA3KMm6

After breakfast, we checked out, packed up the Dacia and began our journey toward West Cork. The day was cool and dreary, and we faced intermittent rain most of the morning. Sill, fortune smiled fortuitously for a brief stop at Inch Strand. We lucked into another break in the weather for a stop into Torc Falls including a climb up the stairs beside the waterfall but the rain returned, and we dashed back to the car to continue our travels.

I managed to find parking along the main road in downtown Kinsale, but umbrellas were required to walk to Poff's where we enjoyed a delightful luncheon.

HOME | Poffs (poffkenmare.wixsite.com)

By the time we finished up our meal, the rain had ceased, as well so we meandered down the street until discovering a terrific new gallery that was tucked in through a really short alleyway. The place had JUST been opened by a small consortium of artists who rotate manning the shop. There were paintings, photography, ceramics and even soaps on offer and GD, my wife and I struck up a conversation with some of the operators that was quite informative. I would have loved to have spent even longer than we did, but Bantry was calling!

KENMARE COURTYARD GALLERY

Although the rain was mostly done, we hurried along the N71 without further stops. I had advised GD (who in addition to her love of animals is also EXTREMELY fond of vintage clothes, unique jewelry and Farmer's Markets) that Bantry hosts a Farmer's market every Friday and that the First Friday of each month is typically the biggest. With this day being the First Friday in May. Bantry was THE primary attraction.

It did NOT disappoint!

Bantry Market - West Cork's largest market

After experiencing a degree of difficulty in finding a place to park, the weather delivered short, intermittent micro-bursts of rain much as it had on the drive from Kenmare and continued, into the night. The vast and varied array of products on offer included live chickens, baked goods, assorted art works and craft items, clothing, tools, antiques and even a fair bit of what many might consider as pure junk. It was a delightful couple of hours (and a few Euro!) that we spent.

Eventually, we returned to the vehicle and drove on to Drimoleague and the end of terrace 'weekend' house that my wife's graciously offered for us to stay for two nights. After unpacking the car, I drove to the nearby Centra where we bought some basic groceries for our stay.

After a light evening meal and some quiet, 'down time', we called it a night.

More to Come. . . .

Day 5: Following In The Footsteps Of Ancestors

Today was spent in the pursuit of ancestral history, both for nostalgic reflection and to foster a perpetuate the familial link that West Cork connects to us and, more specifically, our GD.

That said, we still managed a few 'tourist-like' visits along the way!

Our route: https://goo.gl/maps/Q6kisswCHQNcNQaSA

I drove a very rough, 'figure eight' route North from Drimoleague, stopping first at Castle Donovan, where we wandered about for a fair while. It's been sturdily repaired in the years past and is a quite impressive ruin. It sits just North from the now vacant remains where Deelish School once stood.. Both are important familial landmarks.

My wife's Grandmother was born nearby and attended the Deelish School and the deserted castle grounds were a frequent playground for her. In later years, a younger brother would cross to America, work the mines in Montana, saving almost every penny, in order to return to Ireland, purchase a small, nearby farm and marry the local schoolteacher.

Although he farmed close by, the young family continued to reside in the teacher's house and were living there, in 1936, when they were rudely woken in the middle of the night, as the SW corner of the Tower House collapsed.

She taught at Deelish from 1916, until 1959 and stories tell of her valiantly delaying a group of Black and Tans at the front door, whilst a Flying Brigade that had been resting inside, quietly made their escape out the back disappearing onto the rough, wild mountain behind the teacher's house!

Obviously, it was important to bring our GD to experience!

Deelish National School | Roaringwater Journal

Moving on from the Castle, I drove the narrow, winding bohreen up to the upper reaches of the mountain, so that she could view the Mealagh Valley Home to the Great Sheep Shearing Adventure of 2004:

Trip Report Trip Report 11 day June Trip - Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (fodors.com)

After regaling GD with tales of 'The Laird Of The Mountain' (Now, sadly passed some years' prior) I reversed course and made our way to Skibbereen, where we enjoyed a delightful meal at the incomperable, Church Restaurant!

Home - The Church Restaurant

After a terrific lunch, we wandered some of Skibbereen, including a fair bit of time within a multi-floor building filled with all sorts of antiques, vintage chatches and assorted oddities of which, GD is a HUGE fan.Once we returned to the car, we drove past (but didn't stop to visit) the Skibbereen Heritage Center, nor the infamous Famine Graveyard:

Famine Mass Graves at Abbeystrowry Skibbereen Skibbereen Heritage Centre (skibbheritage.com)

I followed a more scenic, alternate route back to Drimoleague where we returned 'home' for a brief respite before heading to the nearby Centra to purchace a few items for an impromptu evening picnic and some flowers for a visit to the local graveyard. We dropped into the Catholic Church where we paid our respect to a number of my wife's ancestors. Buried there are four of her father's first cousins, two of his uncles and his wife's grandmother. A brief rain squall drove us back to the Dacia, but fortunately, it didn't last.

I drove back to the Deelish School site, which has been turned into a small car park and a pretty little riverside park. There is a wooden bench and a picnic table. The table memorializes the previously mentioned teacher / relative and the bench, her replacement. The park is a 'waypoint' along one of the Drimoleague Heritage Loop Walks which interconnect with other walks, from the Sheeps Head Way, Gougane Barra, Dunmanway, Rosscarbery and many others.

The Drimoleague Heritage Walkways Explore West Cork

After a pleasant light meal and a bit of wandering along the River Ilen which, here, close to its source is actually little more than a stream we reluctantly headed back to the house to prepare for an early departure the next morning.

More to come . . .

Days 6 & 7: Minimal Touring But Maximum Family!

We made an early start to the day to make for an early arrival in East Cork and our lodgings next to my wife's Cousin's home. This same Cousin is actually the eldest daughter of my wife's father's First Cousin, so I'm not sure what the official, technical term for their relationship but we've been close since 1999. She attended our daughter's wedding and we attended Her's. We've visited her every one of our two dozen plus trips to Ireland and she's visited with us here in the USA around a half dozen times.

Her husband has developed numerous housing estates in Cork, Kerry, Kildare and Dublin and they own a goodly number of rental properties, as well. Two of those are next door to their home, with the closest, being vacant, and was made available for us. This 'Cousin' is also the owner of the Drimoleague 'Weekend' house.

Knowing how much interest I have in Ireland and its history, she and her sister commissioned a local artist to create a painting of the Choctaw Memorial 'Kindred Spirits' AKA, 'The Feathers' that they gifted to me to commemorate my 70^th Birthday.

'Kindred Spirits' Sculpture Cork, Ireland - Atlas Obscura

Speaking of birthdays either on the weekend, or very soon, thereafter, her sister, her son and her oldest granddaughter were celebrating theirs and our GD was only about two weeks removed from hers. So, on Day 7, Cousin's siblings, children and grand children descended on her house to celebrate and to visit with us.

As far as 'tourist stuff', on the evening of Day 6, GD was escorted by Cousin's similarly aged GD to a local hurling match and dinner outing, Cousin and her husband brough us to a delightful restaurant in nearby Midelton called Sage: Home | Sage (sagerestaurant.ie)

On the morning of Day 7, I drove into Midelton to show GD the actual Choctaw Monument.  The rest of the day was dedicated to food, fun and family!

More To Come. . .