In County Antrim we have fond memories and great photos of the Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Antrim Coast, and the Glenariff Forest Park.
THE JOURNEY
The drive from Westport, County Mayo to Bushmills, County Antrim is 5 1/2 hours of driving time on www.aaroadwatch.ie. We drove via Sligo and Donegal town, and it was an all-day trip.
YEAT'S GRAVE
The famous Irish poet W. B. Yeats is buried in a historic graveyard next to a small church, surrounded by peaceful green countryside. It's in Drumcliff, 6 miles north of Sligo, an easy stop off the main road.
My family found it a bit odd to plan a stop to gawk at a dead poet's tombstone. However, the actual experience transcended our expectations!
This is a fascinating glimpse into history, and a beautiful old Celtic cross sets the mood. The boneyard is haunted with a peaceful spirit...the spirit of W. B. Yeats and Irish men and women who were laid to rest after loving and yearning and leaving their mark upon the world.
Poem By W. B. Yeats:
Down By the Salley Gardens by W. B. Yeats Down by the salley gardens my love and I did meet; She passed the salley gardens with little snow-white feet. She bid me take love easy, as the leaves grow on the tree; But I, being young and foolish, with her would not agree. In a field by the river my love and I did stand, And on my leaning shoulder she laid her snow-white hand. She bid me take life easy, as the grass grows on the weirs; But I was young and foolish, and now am full of tears.
MUTINY IN THE BACK SEAT
Thanks to Michele we wisely didn't deviate far from our main route, Westport to Bushmills via Sligo and Donegal town. The drive became an all-day, hot, aggravating affair. We would have been driving in the dark if we had deviated from the main route!
There was mutiny in the back seat, where my 2 young adult daughters fought over the only cap to keep their long hair from blowing wildly. All the windows were open and it was boiling hot with no air conditioning in an Irish heat wave!
If you have children of any age, remember this equation: Hindsight: 5 1/2 hour drive = Family Feud!
Next time I wouldn't undertake a drive of longer than 4 hours (according to AA Roadwatch) in Ireland with the family. Air conditioning would have helped.
PROBLEMS DRIVING:
Here are the problems which made our longer drives stressful and NOT any fun: --No Air conditioning in the car during Irish heat wave --Compact car and feuding siblings crammed between backpacks in the back seat. --The curb on the left twice reached out and bit the car --Too many confusing circles to navigate in Northern Ireland. Why can't they build a nice long straight road?! --one lost husband driving and 3 back-seat drivers!
THAT is real Ireland!
GETTING UN-LOST
It was aggravating getting lost and confused, but we were never lost for long, thanks to the excellent OSI Complete Road Atlas of Ireland. It includes an index and has town names in Gaelic where appropriate. I ordered it on-line. Alongside this we needed the laminated Berndtson map of Ireland so we could see the whole country on one page. See your local bookstore or www.BERNDTSON.com.
NORTHERN IRELAND
For us, at first, Northern Ireland looked like...San Diego, California! Our first glimpse was of wide streets, well-paved, modern suburbs, very much llike home.
We missed rural southwest and west Ireland with its quaint small villages and cows and sheep in the road.
IRISH ACCENTS
I had been listening carefully to all these musical Irish accents in County Kerry, Clare, and Mayo. At last in Northern Ireland I heard the familiar accents of my beloved Irish grandmother and her sisters. That was exciting for me! (She emigrated from Belfast to America in 1914, on a ship from England. Seven of her siblings and her mother came over one at a time.)
CRAIG PARK B&B, BUSHMILLS, COUNTY ANTRIM
Such wonderful hospitality at Craig Park, a b&b in the countryside near Bushmills, County Antrim! David came right out to the car to greet us and he even carried my bags in.
I was delighted that Jan was willing to do our laundry for a fair price...washed, dried, and neatly folded! Such a convenience!
Very comfortable beds in tidy, charming, spacious rooms at Craig Park. Quiet and peaceful with views of garden, countryside, and a peak of distant ocean.
They have a globe downstairs stuck with pins to show all the places they have travelled to around the world.
Jan and David had 2 guests from Australia who were also doing geneology research on Irish ancestry (as I am doing.) We all talked about the ancestors and Jan and David passed on great info to us.
Have to give Craig Park an A+. Superb.
Don't listen at breakfast if David tells you the story of the wild plane ride he took with the stewardess and the baby flying around inside the plane! Ahhhhh! David is full of stories and it was a pleasure enjoying his company at breakfast.
Tea and coffee are complimentary any time, and for a reasonablel fee we enjoyed wine in the evening and a chat outdoors at sunset with David and Jan and the 2 guests from Australia. Also met David and Jan's son, a true gentleman.
See Michele's book for Craig Park, Bushmills.
GIANT'S CAUSEWAY:
The strange basalt pillars of the Giant's Causeway are an unlikely and exhilarating sight. Everyone was fascinated.
Bring your eye-drops in July as we (and others) developed itchy eyes in the area...might be seasonal allergies. It gets worse if you rub your eyes. Goes away when you leave the area.
It was an Irish heat wave and unfortunately Giant's Causeway requires some walking up-hill. We wished we had saved this site for the cooler July evening between 7:00 pm and 8:00 pm. The visitors center is closed by then but you can still take the walk.
Was the Giant's Causeway truly a 3-star site? Yes. Was it worth it to ME to drive this far north just to see it? NO. Personally I would have preferred adding these 2 nights to the Belfast or Antrim coast areas.
By this point in our trip, I was getting rather satiated with scenic coastal wonders. If I sound cranky, I am reflecting the weariness that we all felt by this point in the trip. We were getting on each other's nerves a wee bit at this point! This would have been a good time to settle into one good-sized town for 4 nights and let everyone have some personal space.
I suggest you see the sites you are most excited about at the beginning of your trip, when you are still feeling fresh and eager. Also try to avoid long drives crammed in the car with feuding siblings of any age and make sure you have air conditioning in the car in summer!
A true test of the pacing of our trips: If there is nothing written in my journal, it means we went too fast, and everyone gets cranky. Sure enough, I find nothing written in my journal for the Giant's Causeway!
DUNLUCE CASTLE
I loved Dunluce castle on an early summer evening! We saw these evocative ruins on a clear early evening with views of the sunlight twinkling on the sea.
See the castle on your own first so you can peacefully meditate upon the views. Then join a tour to get the story.
It is said the private chambers and privte kitchen of the lady of the castle fell into the sea during a storm. Thereafter she refused to dwell in the castle and her whole family had to move. If you ask me she sounds awfully picky.
I enjoyed Dunluce Castle more than the Giant's Causeway, but that's a personal reaction.
My husband and 2 daughters found both Dunluce Castle and Giant's Causeway enjoyable. They liked the Cliffs of Moher better, though.
FOOD: Of all the meals we had in Northern Ireland, our #1 favorite meal of all was Jan's Full Irish Breakfast at Craig Park! No lunches or dinners in the area stand out as much as her breakfast. She served the best mushrooms, tomatoes, bacon & sausage (we like the bacon better), and eggs on special potato bread. Plus fresh fruit in the cold buffet including berries (seasonal) and Irish brown bread which is called wheaten in Northern Ireland. My daughters also liked the excellent cold cereals available in the breakfast bar. (All included in your room price.)
OOPS! Posted my trip report too soon and now there isn't an edit button, so I can't correct any mistakes and I can't add emoticons!
SUNSET WALK TO CARRICK-A-REDE: Didn't have time to cross the Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge (closed at 4:30 summer.)
But my husband and I enjoyed a lovely romantic sunset walk to the carrick-a-rede rope bridge (but not over the bridge.) (Left the feuding siblings to cool off in the b&b).
Very lovely walk just before sunset. Birds screaming like children playing. Beautiful time of day.
ANTRIM COAST AND GLENARIFF:
The beautiful Antrim coast drive deserves a 2-night stop. However we did it as a day-trip, enroute from Bushmills (County Antrim) to Hillsborough (County Down). Mistake! Too lovely and enticing to do as a day-trip. Plus we stopped at Glenariff Forest Park for a hike in the forest where the fairies (and a troll) live. ! This takes you to another world. Didn't arrive at our next b&b til almost dark.
TORR HEAD:
Between Ballycastle and Cushendun is Torr Road. Good luck finding it; kids have turned the sign the wrong way.
Scotland was hidden in the mist at beautiful Torr Head. I mean, completely hidden. Couldn't see any trace of it. Still a nice view.
Torr Head was one of the highlights of the trip for my 2 daughters, who stayed in the car and laughed their headphones off as they watched me stepping in sheep poo. The hillside is carpetted in sheep poo, large and small droppings, all the way up. Enjoy!
Consolation: sheep poo is mostly grass and doesn't smell like doggie doo. Near Glenariff there is a sign stating firmly you should pick up the "doggie foul" after your pet...Maybe poo isn't polite in Northern Ireland...
GLENARIFF FOREST PARK
Glenariff, home of the fairies, was a delight. We took the path to the waterfalls. (Another lovely walk that includes hills.)
Do the fairies live in the ferns under the tall trees, listening to the waterfall and peaceful, soothing birdsong?
I see a green forest which reminds me a little of Costa Rica, (which is more tropical). Glenariff in Ireland has a cooler climate. We see liverwort, mosses, ferns, and the Glenariff River. Ferns grow in the green grass and the air is cool and moist. Tall trees have slim trunks, and are surrounded by purple and yellow flowers, and shamrocks!
Liverworts and mosses spring to life on a fallen tree trunk. A blade of sunlight pierces the green forest canopy and highlights the bank of the stream, where water sings and tumbles over the rocks.
Tall white waterfall plunging down 30 feet over the edge, as green mosses, liverworts and ferns grow on either side of it, framing the waterfall. Above, the green forest canopy grows, sheltering all.
Just past the waterfall there's a weeping wall covered with liverwort and baby ferns like a green tapestry. Liverwort looks like very deep plush carpeting here.
My husband tells my daughters a leprechaun lives under the bridge. We look down under the bridge and sadly spot some litter. A troll lives here maybe?! For surely visitors wouldn't have littered this lovely place.
Easy to walk at Glenariff...wooden bridges, railings, and gravelled pathways. Good for all ages.
Young Irishmen "sewing their wild oats" (as my grandmother would have said) shattered the silence as they whooped out loud and plunged over the railing to splash at the foot of the waterfall. DON'T TRY THIS as they obviously knew where to land in the rocky depths. We know they are Irish by their accents and by their lack of tans. (Compared to the tans of southern California youths.)
DINNER: STABLES, ANTRIM
Time to finish our drive to the next b&b. Terrified of getting lost if we stray far from the main road, we randomly choose an attractive restaurant for dinner right off the main road, and it turns out to have good food for good prices. It is called Stables in the town of Antrim on Castle Street. www.thestablesonline.co.uk
FORTWILLIAM COUNTRY HOUSE, HILLSBOROUGH, COUNTY DOWN:
Arrived just barely before dark at Fortwilliam Country House in Hillsborough (south of Belfast) and received a friendly welcome by Mavis and a cup of tea with home-made sweet bread.
COMING UP NEXT: FORTWILLIAM COUNTRY HOUSE, HILLSBOROUGH; ; BELFAST; AND ULSTER FOLK AND TRANSPORT MUSEUM
Thanks for the complete report, very thorough. We helped disipate family squabbles by having one adult in the back with a kid and one child up front w/ the driver. We also stopped frequently and our longest drive was about 4 hours mixed in w/ the stops.
Irisheyes, sounds like your longest drive of 4 hours was a better plan than our 2 longest drives. But we still had a great trip overall...no trip is perfect!
In fact when something goes wrong on a trip I always think, oh well, this might be funny in my trip report!
As for putting one adult in the back with one of the kids...umm...what if you can't tell which 2 are the adults and which 2 are the kids at times?!
Congrats on posting your first photo! It is beautiful. Your trip report is lovely and everyone is enjoying it very much. I'm glad you liked Craig Park and Jan and David. Their B&B is for sale so who knows how much longer it will be before they retire. When it happens it will be a loss of a great place to stay in Bushmills.
Will your next trip to Ireland be without the kids?
Hi Michele, I'm glad we got to stay with David and Jan at Craig Park. They did mention future changes but still seemed to be expecting more guests so far. If anybody is planning to stay there soon you are in for a real treat!
I am enjoying my photo and keep returning to the site to make sure it is really there! It's great to learn how to do new things, kieeps your brain sharp. Hubby took most of our photos this time. I am going to get my own digital camera because there were other photos of my memories I would like to have taken. He was a bit of a camera hog and I think at least a third of our photos are of flowers on the Burren!
Michele, now after reading my County Antrim chapter, how could you tell my next trip to Ireland will probably be without the "kids"?!
Family trips are precious memories...(okay most of the time but not every second!) But a trip alone with hubby...I mean Ed...I mean Your Majesty...I mean lover boy...would be more romantic!
Mark D, thanks for the encouragement. I am working on the photos. I have one more chapter to go here on IrelandYes.com. I have some other web-sites I promised trip reports to also (but shorter versions.) And my pile of laundry is shrinking!